UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is located on open access land so there is a legal right of access for climbing at the crag itself. However access problems have arisen in the past when climbers cut across fields on the quickest approach with does not cross Open Access land, but instead relies upon linear rights of way. This angered the farmer at Conies Farm due to damage to dry stone walls from people climbing over them and his attitude to climbers remains negative. Avoid confrontation with the farmer by accessing the crag via the very slightly longer route through Oxlow Rake rather than through Conies Farm (see 'parking and approach' below for more info).

The crag is characterised by non-eliminate climbing on good rock. Holds are mostly weathered features - slopers, pinches, crimps - a refreshing change from the usual rattly Peak limestone. Great landings - mostly flat and grassy and lots of link ups possible. More details on www.peakbouldering.info (when it is functional). There are problems on either side of those documented in Peak Limestone North, but these are poor quality and best avoided for ecological reasons.

Rockfax Description
Sit-start on a flatty below the break as far left as is possible, finish straight up on the left end of a small overlap. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
To the left of Yeboah. Sit start on a flatty below the break, pretty much as far left as is possible, finish straight up on the left end of small overlap.

James Jacobs Sep/2012.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Derrick 26 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: 2nd Hold broke off. Undercut still there
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2nd Hold broke off. Undercut still there

Logged Ascents

88 users have logged this

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Beagle Too Far

Grade: f6B ***
(Baslow Edge)

Loading Notifications...