Rockfax Description
A popular classic with a lot of climbing and quite a bit of ledge rambling too. The route is equipped except for the exposed final ridge which may require a few slings and nuts to protect. Ascent time is 8-10 hours for a reasonably efficient team so start early! Conveniently, the first pitch is the crux - although you do still have to do the rest of the route to get the tick! The climbing is split by a series of large grassy terraces, and retreat is possible from as far as up at the 18th pitch, though this isn't recommended. Start at a short buttress leading to a groove.
1) 6a, 2) 5c, 3) 5c. The First Terrace leads to:
4) 5c, 5) 5a, 6) 5a, 7) 5a. The Second Terrace leads to:
8) 5c, 9) 5a, 10) 5c. A 150m scramble up The Epaulette.
11) 5c, 12) 5c, 13) 5c, 14) 3a, 15) 3a. Which leads to The Epaule. 100m of scrambling leads to:
16) 3a, 17) 3a, 18) 5a, 19) 4c. Move left for 20m to 20) 5c. A steep wall to the top of La Main . Traverse the top of La Main, make a 20m abseil and continue over easy ground towards the headwall and its huge yellow groove.
21) 4c, 22) 3c, 23) 3c, 24) 4a.
Continue up the ridge - 200m with moves of 3 and 4 - to the summit. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Cece | 25 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Route is very overgrown and unless familiar with the area, allow a lot more time than you think you need. Allow a lot of time to navigate through the scramble and terrace sections. It is easy to get lost in the multitude of trees and bushes! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Route is very overgrown and unless familiar with the area, allow a lot more time than you think you need. Allow a lot of time to navigate through the scramble and terrace sections. It is easy to get lost in the multitude of trees and bushes! |
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Grade: 6a ***
(Turguilla)