900m, 35 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular classic with a lot of climbing and quite a bit of ledge rambling too. The route is equipped except for the exposed final ridge which may require a few slings and nuts to protect. Ascent time is 8-10 hours for a reasonably efficient team so start early! Conveniently, the first pitch is the crux - although you do still have to do the rest of the route to get the tick! The climbing is split by a series of large grassy terraces, and retreat is possible from as far as up at the 18th pitch, though this isn't recommended. Start at a short buttress leading to a groove.
1) 6a, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. The First Terrace leads to:
4) 5+, 5) 5, 6) 5, 7) 5. The Second Terrace leads to:
8) 5+, 9) 5, 10) 5+. A 150m scramble up The Epaulette.
11) 5+, 12) 5+, 13) 5+, 14) 3, 15) 3. Which leads to The Epaule. 100m of scrambling leads to: 16) 3, 17) 3, 18) 5, 19) 4+. Move left for 20m to 20) 5+. A steep wall to the top of La Main Traverse the top of La Main, make a 20m abseil and continue over easy ground towards the headwall and its huge yellow groove. 21) 4+, 22) 3+, 23) 3+, 24) 4.
Continue up the ridge - 200m with moves of 3 and 4 - to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fully equipped apart from the 3 easy exit pitches..

afterthesend 26/Sep AltLd O/S

After failing to find the correct path leading to the base of the pillar two days previous, me and Angus successfully reached the climb after a pre-dawn start. Moved fast through the first sections, linking pitches and averaging 15min per pitch. Simul-climbed the upper easier pitches. Climb completed in 7.5hrs but the descent took a good two hours. Excellent day out on some good granite pitches.

JimboWizbo 15/Sep AltLd O/S

I led odd pitches, there are a couple of 6a bits, I don't believe the first pitch stands out as the crux, apart from the fact that you have a bag full of food and water on. Slept under the pine tree with the ants on the epaulette (rough, didn't really sleep). Overall about 36 pitches, lucked out on the way down as a nice French guy drove us from the east parking back to our car in Orlu. First two day route, all clean, wonderful. The ridge traverse from the main is spectacular with the vast clean slabs sweeping away on either side.

with Ross
thomas.veness 20/Jul AltLd O/S

Led the 6a and moved together on many of the easier sections. All in all a very long day, but undoubtedly 3-star climbing. I'd recommend getting met at the parking circle; the shepherd's hut offers a very long descent!

with Andy Howell
Somerset swede basher 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Epic day out, just under 10hrs on the route, including dealing with 3 very wet pitches. More TD than 6a given the length and scrambling sections.

with James Fulson
stephen ashworth 05/Oct/13 AltLd

Climbed up to pitch 9 then abseil off.

with john frost
Frostie 05/Oct/13 AltLd dnf

First nine pitches, abseiled off with to remain with pair behind us.

with Steve Ashworth
rd20 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Over two days. Temperature in high 20s. Great bivvy top of P10. RD odd pitches 1-19 then 22 and 24

with Patrick
georgenvk 21/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Big Lee 27/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

A big day out. Started the route at 9am, finished at 8pm. Plenty of jungle bashing but some great rock pitches. Led the initial 6a pitch.

Pero 27/Jun/13 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ads, Timothy Miller, Alan100
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set