|900m, 35 pitches. |
A popular classic with a lot of climbing and quite a bit of ledge rambling too. The route is equipped except for the exposed final ridge which may require a few slings and nuts to protect. Ascent time is 8-10 hours for a reasonably efficient team so start early! Conveniently, the first pitch is the crux - although you do still have to do the rest of the route to get the tick! The climbing is split by a series of large grassy terraces, and retreat is possible from as far as up at the 18th pitch, though this isn't recommended. Start at a short buttress leading to a groove.
1) 6a, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. The First Terrace leads to:
4) 5+, 5) 5, 6) 5, 7) 5. The Second Terrace leads to:
8) 5+, 9) 5, 10) 5+. A 150m scramble up The Epaulette.
11) 5+, 12) 5+, 13) 5+, 14) 3, 15) 3. Which leads to The Epaule. 100m of scrambling leads to: 16) 3, 17) 3, 18) 5, 19) 4+. Move left for 20m to 20) 5+. A steep wall to the top of La Main Traverse the top of La Main, make a 20m abseil and continue over easy ground towards the headwall and its huge yellow groove. 21) 4+, 22) 3+, 23) 3+, 24) 4.
Continue up the ridge - 200m with moves of 3 and 4 - to the summit. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Fully equipped apart from the 3 easy exit pitches..
Photo: Ridge scramble on le Pilier Sud, Dent d'Orlu © thomas.veness
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This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.
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Led the 6a and moved together on many of the easier sections. All in all a very long day, but undoubtedly 3-star climbing. I'd recommend getting met at the parking circle; the shepherd's hut offers a very long descent!
thomas.veness - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/15 with Andy Howell
Epic day out, just under 10hrs on the route, including dealing with 3 very wet pitches. More TD than 6a given the length and scrambling sections.
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with James Fulson
Climbed up to pitch 9 then abseil off.
stephen ashworth - AltLd - 05/Oct/13 with john frost
First nine pitches, abseiled off with to remain with pair behind us.
Frostie - AltLd dnf - 05/Oct/13 with Steve Ashworth
Over two days. Temperature in high 20s. Great bivvy top of P10. RD odd pitches 1-19 then 22 and 24
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/13 with Patrick
georgenvk - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/13
A big day out. Started the route at 9am, finished at 8pm. Plenty of jungle bashing but some great rock pitches. Led the initial 6a pitch.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/13 with Pero Kalugerovich
Pero - AltLd - 27/Jun/13
ads, Timothy Miller, Alan100