7m. Middle Hope. About 50m before you reach Lip Slip from the bay is a cleft formed by two opposing, sharp aretes. Layback steeply up the underside of the right arete until you can bridge across to the slabby back wall of the cleft. Step across onto the slab to a pocket and flake. Pass the first small roof on its left using the thin crack above and finish direct over the second small roof on good holds.

Note: Tech grade changed to 4c June 2014.

Stuart Ivory 30/Jun/2013


ClimberDateStyle
Wendy Watthews 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Bcf
Mayaculpa 12/Sep/15 Lead
with Bridgette
Mayaculpa 24/Jan/15 Lead
with Paul Lewis
Mayaculpa 30/Aug/14 2nd
FernandoHidalgo 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
jayyaj 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 12/Jul/14 Lead
with Chris
Mayaculpa 04/Apr/14 TR
with Alan Thorne
Hidden 23/Mar/14 TR O/S
Mayaculpa 23/Mar/14 TR

At last, Really good climb, There a quite a few ways of transferring to the back wall.

with dbm
Mayaculpa 10/Mar/14 TR dnf

Still can't get beyond pocket and flake !

with Mike Rotraxion
Mayaculpa 08/Mar/14 TR dnf

Escaped up A Nightmare Before Christmas

with Mike Rotraxion
Nix33 ??/2014 -
Mark Davis 24/Dec/13 TR O/S

Logical direct start VS 4c possibly HVS

with Mr Shunt
Stuart William 30/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Climbed both direct and by laybacking the arete to start, but the arete just looked too cool not to use. Grade probably similar either way and in retrospect I probably under-graded it a little.

Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 4
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set