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|Somerset > Sand Point >
|To the Man in Room 34...|| HS 4c|
A Nightmare Before Christmas >>
|7m. Middle Hope. About 50m before you reach Lip Slip from the bay is a cleft formed by two opposing, sharp aretes. Layback steeply up the underside of the right arete until you can bridge across to the slabby back wall of the cleft. Step across onto the slab to a pocket and flake. Pass the first small roof on its left using the thin crack above and finish direct over the second small roof on good holds.
Note: Tech grade changed to 4c June 2014. |
Stuart Ivory 30/Jun/2013
Photo: The cleft with (L to R) Fork in the Road, Hubris, and To the Man in Room 34... © wurzelinzummerset
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This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
jayyaj - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Alex Herbert
Mayaculpa - Lead - 12/Jul/14 with Chris
Mayaculpa - TR - 04/Apr/14 with Alan Thorne
Hidden - TR O/S - 23/Mar/14
At last, Really good climb, There a quite a few ways of transferring to the back wall.
Mayaculpa - TR - 23/Mar/14 with dbm
Still can't get beyond pocket and flake !
Mayaculpa - TR dnf - 10/Mar/14 with Murco Traxion
Escaped up A Nightmare Before Christmas
Mayaculpa - TR dnf - 08/Mar/14 with Murco Traxion
Nix33 - 2014
Logical direct start VS 4c possibly HVS
The Pylon King - TR O/S - 24/Dec/13 with Mr Shunt
Stuart William - Solo O/S - 30/Jun/13