Cumbria > Falcon Crag, (Grizdale) >
 
Chock Gully** V 5

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[One of the Ice Pitches on a Powdery Chock Gully., 3 kb]135m, 4 pitches. It's inclusion in 'Cold Climbs' has attracted a disproportionate amount of attention to this climb. It is rarely in climbable condition and requires a big dump of snow and a period of freeze thaw for it to be stable enough to climb the crux overhang. An excellent route when it is in condition! Traversing in on the big ledge to avoid the first two pitches is cheating. 1) 20m. Climb the first chock stone on the left. 2) 20m The second bulge to easy ground below the main pitch. 3) 25m. Climb steepening snow until you are under the chock stone (good nuts on the left). Make difficult moves out left and surmount the chock using unconsolidated snow and poor hooks. 4) 50m. Climb beneath the huge jammed boulder to gain a standing position on top of it. Some tricky moves up the back of the gully lead to easier ground and the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: One of the Ice Pitches on a Powdery Chock Gully. © Franco Cookson OLD
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 37 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Missed first 2 pitches as freezing level had risen. Aside from this, good fun :)
johang - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/13 with Phil

very much out of condition! Although good snow on the easier bits, the turf was well frozen and some good ice, the crux was bare and very hard, all in a great day with fantastic climbing.
Joby - AltLd - 29/Mar/13 with John Martin, Robin Fraser

Great fun. Headtorch ascent after work. No ice on first 2 pitches but solid turf. Perfect ice leading up to the capstone though. Topped out at quarter past midnight - fantastic stary night.
GPN - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/13 with Shaw Brown

Shaw Brown - 13/Mar/13 with George North

A cracking day, everyone thoroughly enjoyed it. Skirted round the first chockstone.
petegunn - Lead - 03/Mar/13 with Will, Davina

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 03/Mar/13

Super route. The crux is technical and the part afterwards has sustained interest and cool scenery. The route wont last long now though. Also, not grade V, by any stretch of the imagination. IV 5 covers it nicely, or maybe IV 6 I guess.
LakesWinter - AltLd - 02/Mar/13 with AD

No ice on P1 so Wallace climbed the crack without tools - our guidebook said climb the crack on the right of the chockstone - felt very hard unless you wanted to trust your left foot on almost nothing. No ice on the "short ice bulge" on P2, so backed off and walked round to look at the crux, which again looked bare and hard - right decision.
ablackett - AltLd dnf - 02/Mar/13 with James Osborn, Andy Wallace

Bailed after 1st pitch as no ice. Even 1st pitch felt really hard - maybe better when the turf/moss is frozen.
Jimmy O - AltLd dnf - 02/Mar/13 with Andy Wallace, Andy Blackett

Dry rock interspersed with snow and quite a bit of ice on crux pitch
clams - Lead - Mar/13 with Chaz

The best/scariest/hardest thing I've done in winter! Absolutely amazing! Great ice beneath the capstone leads to tricky moves to get established on the slope above. The punt paid off with great conditions!
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Thomas Reid

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jan/11

What a day! Steve fell seconding first pitch, Davina dropped her lunch, Steve had a bit of a scare on the 2nd as he lifted out his runner, came down, did well to give the crux pitch a go, battled up to the capstone but couldn't manage it, my pick became loose, Davina dropped my glove, 1 out of 3 head torches only gave enough light to lead on, Steve too tired to lead the final pitch, dropped the ropes down the pitch whilst changing over, lucky they didn't snag. finished the last 3 pitches in the dark. I ended up leading all pitches. 11hrs total. My first epic story, superb. : )
petegunn - Lead - 09/Jan/11 with Davina & Steve

Did Pitches 3...4.. And 5 as first 2 werent banked out.. Quite techy moves over the chokstone on 3rd pitch but gears good.. Fantastic route in good nick.. Will have to go and do first two pitches to get the full tick.. If we ever get enough snow!!
Lee Sheard - Lead O/S - 21/Dec/10 with John Hubbard

Not much ice. Skipped the first pitch.
robinsi197 - AltLd - 04/Dec/10 with Nick

No disappointments this year, an excellent mixed climb with interest on each pitch.
petegunn - Lead - 04/Mar/10 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/10

innesmac - 2010

In brilliant nick, with loads of ice and Rime everywhere. It took us ages due to obscene amounts of powder. The easy slopes were 8ft deep at least and held nothing. Proper scary, took nearly seven hours. Epic and scary!
Franco Cookson OLD - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/09 with David Warburton

Pitch up to the Chock was on poorish ice and powder by Franco - first crux. I got the Chockstone pitch, which was a mixed climb with some, but limited good ice and managed to throw my way over the chock into 7 or 8 ft deep powder. Almost constant Powder avalanches. Epic, scary but ultimately amazing.
Dave Warburton - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/09 with Franco Cookson

Franco Cookson - AltLd O/S - Dec/09 with Dave Warburton

great route - deep narrow gully/chimney with 4 great pitches. worth waiting for the right conditions to do this. we just had enough snow/ice to pull over the chockstone
Tom Phillips - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/09 with iain cole

Hidden - 12/Feb/09

tough but well protected crux
danm - AltLd - 09/Feb/09 with Pete Waite-shores

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/06

Very Lean, lead crux on 1st pitch wall to left of cave to gain top of capstone less than 10mm of ice. Chockstone pitch went at 2-3.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/04 with Diccon Proctor

BenTiffin - AltLd - Dec/96 with Angus Andrew

Martin Haworth - AltLd - Jan/88 with tim p

Felt quite easy, only took half an hour. Went over to Dove Crag and did Inaccessible Gully afterwards.
Bob - Solo O/S - 18/Feb/86

S,2,L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/86

Hammy - AltLd - 31/Jan/86 with Ian Barker

Avalanched off!
biggianthead - 28/Jan/86 with M

Again with Kim Wainaright on 25.Jan.1986, then a third time with Chris Wilson when the second pitch collapsed under me.
Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - Feb/83 with Frank Wilkinson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gavinpeach, iksander, Pohil, Jonathan Spooner, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 59
hard VI0 of 20
VI0 of 20
easy VI2 of 20
hard V5 of 20
V6 of 20
easy V2 of 20
hard IV4 of 20
IV1 of 20
easy IV0 of 20
hard 60 of 19
60 of 19
easy 61 of 19
hard 510 of 19
55 of 19
easy 51 of 19
hard 41 of 19
41 of 19
easy 40 of 19
3 Stars11 of 20
2 Stars8 of 20
1 Star1 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 37 (2.7%)
Lead7 of 37 (18.9%)
Followed3 of 37 (8.1%)
Alt Leads21 of 37 (56.8%)
Unknown5 of 37 (13.5%)

'Climbed'17 of 37 (45.9%)
clean O/S17 of 37 (45.9%)
clean rpt1 of 37 (2.7%)
dnf2 of 37 (5.4%)