Chock Gully** V 5
[Good ice looking up fourth pitch. Not banked out but good winter climbing., 2 kb]135m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
135m. It's inclusion in 'Cold Climbs' has attracted a disproportionate amount of attention to this climb. It is rarely in climbable condition and requires a big dump of snow and a period of freeze thaw for it to be stable enough to climb the crux overhang. An excellent route when it is in condition! Traversing in on the big ledge to avoid the first two pitches is cheating. 1) 20m. Climb the first chock stone on the left. 2) 20m The second bulge to easy ground below the main pitch. 3) 25m. Climb steepening snow until you are under the chock stone (good nuts on the left). Make difficult moves out left and surmount the chock using unconsolidated snow and poor hooks. 4) 50m. Climb beneath the huge jammed boulder to gain a standing position on top of it. Some tricky moves up the back of the gully lead to easier ground and the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: Good ice looking up fourth pitch. Not banked out but good winter climbing. © Jon Hubbard
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This climb is in 44 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Pohil - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/15 with Ed Watson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Feb/15

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

Missed first 2 pitches as freezing level had risen. Aside from this, good fun :)
johang - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/13 with Phil

very much out of condition! Although good snow on the easier bits, the turf was well frozen and some good ice, the crux was bare and very hard, all in a great day with fantastic climbing.
Joby - AltLd - 29/Mar/13 with John Martin, Robin Fraser

Great fun. Headtorch ascent after work. No ice on first 2 pitches but solid turf. Perfect ice leading up to the capstone though. Topped out at quarter past midnight - fantastic stary night.
GPN - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/13 with Shaw Brown

Shaw Brown - 13/Mar/13 with George North

A cracking day, everyone thoroughly enjoyed it. Skirted round the first chockstone.
petegunn - Lead - 03/Mar/13 with Will, Davina

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 03/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Mar/13

No ice on P1 so Wallace climbed the crack without tools - our guidebook said climb the crack on the right of the chockstone - felt very hard unless you wanted to trust your left foot on almost nothing. No ice on the "short ice bulge" on P2, so backed off and walked round to look at the crux, which again looked bare and hard - right decision.
ablackett - AltLd dnf - 02/Mar/13 with James Osborn, Andy Wallace

Bailed after 1st pitch as no ice. Even 1st pitch felt really hard - maybe better when the turf/moss is frozen.
Jimmy O - AltLd dnf - 02/Mar/13 with Andy Wallace, Andy Blackett

Dry rock interspersed with snow and quite a bit of ice on crux pitch
clams - Lead - Mar/13 with Chaz

The best/scariest/hardest thing I've done in winter! Absolutely amazing! Great ice beneath the capstone leads to tricky moves to get established on the slope above. The punt paid off with great conditions!
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Thomas Reid

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jan/11

What a day! finished the last 3 pitches in the dark, with only 1 out of the 3 head torches giving enough light to lead on. I ended up leading all pitches, it nearly turned into an epic. superb. : )
petegunn - Lead - 09/Jan/11 with Davina & Steve

Did Pitches 3...4.. And 5 as first 2 werent banked out.. Quite techy moves over the chokstone on 3rd pitch but gears good.. Fantastic route in good nick.. Will have to go and do first two pitches to get the full tick.. If we ever get enough snow!!
Lee Sheard - Lead O/S - 21/Dec/10 with John Hubbard

Not much ice. Skipped the first pitch.
robinsi197 - AltLd - 04/Dec/10 with Nick

No disappointments this year, an excellent mixed climb with interest on each pitch.
petegunn - Lead - 04/Mar/10 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/10

innesmac - 2010

In brilliant nick, with loads of ice and Rime everywhere. It took us ages due to obscene amounts of powder. The easy slopes were 8ft deep at least and held nothing. Proper scary, took nearly seven hours. Epic and scary!
Franco Cookson OLD - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/09 with David Warburton

Pitch up to the Chock was on poorish ice and powder by Franco - first crux. I got the Chockstone pitch, which was a mixed climb with some, but limited good ice and managed to throw my way over the chock into 7 or 8 ft deep powder. Almost constant Powder avalanches. Epic, scary but ultimately amazing.
Dave Warburton - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/09 with Franco Cookson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Dec/09

great route - deep narrow gully/chimney with 4 great pitches. worth waiting for the right conditions to do this. we just had enough snow/ice to pull over the chockstone
Tom Phillips - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/09 with iain cole

Hidden - 12/Feb/09

tough but well protected crux
danm - AltLd - 09/Feb/09 with Pete Waite-shores

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Scratch and scrape
Tim Sparrow - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/06

Very Lean, lead crux on 1st pitch wall to left of cave to gain top of capstone less than 10mm of ice. Chockstone pitch went at 2-3.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/04 with Diccon Proctor

BenTiffin - AltLd - Dec/96 with Angus Andrew

Martin Haworth - AltLd - Jan/88 with tim p

Felt quite easy, only took half an hour. Went over to Dove Crag and did Inaccessible Gully afterwards.
Bob - Solo O/S - 18/Feb/86

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/86

Hammy - AltLd - 31/Jan/86 with Ian Barker

Avalanched off!
biggianthead - 28/Jan/86 with M

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 20/Jan/85

Again with Kim Wainaright on 25.Jan.1986, then a third time with Chris Wilson when the second pitch collapsed under me.
Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - Feb/83 with Frank Wilkinson

uphillnow - AltLd - Feb/83 with charlie french, Al Bennett

Hidden - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
OllieF, gavinpeach, iksander, Jonathan Spooner

Total votes cast 62
hard VI0 of 21
VI0 of 21
easy VI2 of 21
hard V5 of 21
V6 of 21
easy V2 of 21
hard IV5 of 21
IV1 of 21
easy IV0 of 21
hard 60 of 20
60 of 20
easy 61 of 20
hard 511 of 20
55 of 20
easy 51 of 20
hard 41 of 20
41 of 20
easy 40 of 20
3 Stars11 of 21
2 Stars9 of 21
1 Star1 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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