Cumbria > Great End (Sprinkling Tarn) >
 
South East Gully*** III

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South-East Gully (Left Fork) >>
[Approaching South East gully, 4 kb]200m. Follow the gully bed to a chockstone. Climb the right branch of the gully up steep snow to an ice pitch which can be climb direct if conditions allow or turned on the right wall. Follow the gully above to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: Approaching South East gully © bonoid
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 211 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

joeflan - Solo O/S - 16/Feb/14

Lee Sheard - AltLd rpt - 30/Jan/14 with Brett

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Apr/13

Dusk climb.
moose ridd - AltLd - 10/Apr/13 with M.Sadler

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches
neilwiltshire - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/13 with Simon Kemper

J1PEF - AltLd - 09/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/13

Really enjoyable little climb. Top conditions. Finished off an excellent day doing Ardus at Shepherd's.
GPN - AltLd - 06/Apr/13 with Annette

net - AltLd - 06/Apr/13 with George

Hidden - 06/Apr/13

pretty nice icey pitch. really awkward moves but bomber neve.
Mattyk - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/13 with Dominick Spracklen

elliptic - Solo rpt - 04/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 03/Apr/13

halroberts - AltLd dnf - 03/Apr/13 with Joe Bone

bonoid - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/13 with Halroberts87

Andy27 - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Simon Gee

BenTiffin - AltLd - 02/Apr/13 with Dan Robinson

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/13

Metalbear - 2nd - 31/Mar/13 with John James McEvoy

John Roe - Lead - 30/Mar/13 with Joe Broadbent

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13

GrahamHP - AltLd - 29/Mar/13 with Bryan Clary

Fantastic winters day
ipegg - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Richard Apthorp

The ice pillar was 12ft high and definitely IV, the rest of the route was good II-III neve. Enjoyable! Excellent conditions for the end of March!
Pohil - AltLd - 26/Mar/13 with Ed Watson

chris smith - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/13

fulton333 - 2nd - 13/Mar/13 with Joe Fennel

Good Ice and neve. Me p1,3: rob p2,4
pebbles - AltLd - 13/Mar/13 with rob

THis time i led the ice pillar as it was a quite thick and in good nick. I was surprised at lack of rock gear on this pitch but it took screws, much fun. Neve was generally very good.
lithos - AltLd - 13/Mar/13 with Peri

joe_lancs - AltLd - 13/Mar/13

Ice pitch a bit lean but went with effort - not sure of grade - top end III?
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 13/Mar/13 with Grant Fulton, Joe Fennel

piersnewton - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/13 with phil newton

johnrich - 2nd - 05/Mar/13 with Foggy

Ice on crux getting thin, felt more like IV 4
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Nik Goile

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13

keithlambley - AltLd - 01/Mar/13 with John T

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/13

Route in very good condition though a bit stepped out. The chockstone pitch was a nice mixed section and the ice pitch was at the top end of III-IV.
jon59 - AltLd - 28/Feb/13

Hidden - Solo - 25/Feb/13

Hidden - Solo - 24/Feb/13

DSM - Solo - 23/Feb/13

Loads of snow!
ankyo - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/13 with Rick

DaveAtkinson - Lead - 10/Feb/13 with M.Lawton

chris smith - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Feb/13

Hidden - 19/Jan/13

6aPunter - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Dec/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Dec/12

Bit sketchy in places, had to traverse out and back in to gully. Not much ice.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Solo - 10/Dec/12 with Jason Wood

Hidden - Solo - Mar/12

kyaizawa - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12 with Mike Mason

Pete23 - AltLd - 11/Feb/12 with Stephen Mors

good route, interesting bits on every pitch
morsy - AltLd - 11/Feb/12 with peter berwick

wupert - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/12 with Pete Walker

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Feb/12

Very good with several technical sections
petegunn - Lead - 05/Feb/12 with Ash, Tom, Davina

Two Cams Tom - 2nd - 05/Feb/12 with Davina, petegunn

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/12

good route weather a bit wintery, whiteout on top, came down in dark!
Charlie Zephyr Booth - 2012

lots of spindrift, hard going, good route tho, icing up nicely!
Charlie Zephyr Booth - 2012

cballard - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2012

ashpreston - 2012

Thin in places but good fun, moved together up to 1st chockstone, then pitched.
butteredfrog - AltLd - 20/Dec/11

Good, melting fast
petegunn - Lead - 20/Dec/11 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead - 18/Dec/11

Hannah Embleton - 2nd - 17/Dec/11 with Pete Hill

Lee Sheard - Lead rpt - 10/Dec/11 with iainpowell

Lean condition and a grade harder.
steven - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Brian Hull

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/11

Booey - 2nd O/S - 02/Jan/11

3kidsandanorton - AltLd - 02/Jan/11 with Diccon Proctor

Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/11 with Paul Nurse

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Abbed off in thawing rain after the first pitch, left two wires and red tat with maillon rapide. Anyone who finds them-pints will be bought for their return.Cheers
Trefo - Lead dnf - 28/Dec/10 with mav

climbed 1st pitch in rapid thaw / pouring rain, decided that it was falling down / too late to carry on - left tat n wires abbing off - as sam said, drinks for the lucky finder :)
Woodiee - 2nd dnf - 28/Dec/10 with Sam Trefgarne

ccraigg22 - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/10 with Paul Murdy

pmurdy - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/10 with Craig Towers

Hidden - Lead - 22/Dec/10

MDowson - AltLd - 20/Dec/10 with Jonathon Powell

Went right after crux pitches onto buttress to finish.
RedFox - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/10 with Tom K

joeydurkin - AltLd - 18/Dec/10 with Jockey

First winter lead. Very nice.
Ly-Cilph - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/10 with Phil L (PCC)

ollyroberts - Solo O/S - 13/Dec/10 with Ben

Dave Mason - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/10 with Adam Gill

Adi Hooper - Solo - 12/Dec/10 with Roger Ward

Second climb of the season, very very lean! We dumped the cams do save weight and only took one half to try and do it quickly as possible, bad decision. We started soloing and then came to an overhanging never block, made a belay then i started the lead. Came to another overhanging never block that my axes just went straight through, not much gear. Kept going up and came to a 3ft pillar of ice, managed to get a screw in but didn't trust it and then mantled to glory. The top gully was just full of powder so i went up on the ridge to the left so i didn't have to swim up. Finally got to the top, then when ant was seconding the rope got stuck! My first major epic, topped out at 6pm in a storm in the dark. Along with that Ant's head torch broke and he snapped the handle of his axe!! Felt at least tech 4 with not much gear so probably V 4 in those conditions!
joe.91 - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/10 with Ant Eccles

Hidden - Lead - Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Mar/10

Thawing slightly but still plenty of ice.
Brian Wilderspin - Solo - 14/Mar/10

DSM - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Andy Gittins

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 07/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Mar/10

KevB - AltLd - 05/Mar/10

Hidden - 01/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/10

ali took the icy crux pitch, we finished the route and then put our own little adventurous line through the final top buttress between SE gully and the Gully buttress route frther right.
AMarchant - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/10 with Ally Hurst

gripped01 - Solo - Mar/10 with Rob Patchett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/10

Hidden - 28/Feb/10

velsyam - 2nd - 21/Feb/10

MikeLeeds - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Clive Greenwood

clive-greenwood - AltLd - 20/Feb/10 with Mike Nuttall

better than central gully, bit more interesting.
AMarchant - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/10 with Stu Air

Loved it - sustained interest for 5-6 pitches. Plenty of breaking trail wading up windslab, but quality conditions where needed: fat ice on crux (steep).
jimorothy - AltLd - 18/Feb/10 with Rachel Crolla

Hidden - Solo - 18/Feb/10

martinazando - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/10 with Ed Luke

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 15/Feb/10

ju2ltd - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/10

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 14/Feb/10 with Clare Francis

jinphotographer - AltLd - 13/Feb/10

Jan Hotar - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10

Hidden - Solo - 12/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Feb/10

Fantastic mixed climbing all the way up...decpetively long. We climbed it in about 6 pitches, could have probably soloed the last section but it seemed pointless with the conditons growing worse and being on unfamiliar territory. Great quality route.
liaml89 - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/10 with Tom Hull

wilkie14c - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/10 with Mark Wilson

Mark Wilson23 - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/10 with Paul blanchard

tomhull - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/10 with Liam Lonsdale

tjmillen - Lead - 06/Feb/10 with dorine, stewart herbert

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Feb/10

Only got to the crag at 1pm after a leisurely start from Birmingham. The main gullies were the only routes in condition. Soloed to the short ice section, at which point Tom complained of feeling tired so we got the rope out and I soloed to a belay, then Tom took over to the top. Good neve lower down, strangely enough got softer towards the top but still good. After getting off the crag, spied a nice pitch of ice on the flank and both soloed that, must have been about III.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Tom

Hidden - 04/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/10

Jack Loftus - AltLd - 03/Feb/10 with Pete Hill

climbalive - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/10 with Adam Walton

Tarquin - Feb/10

ernieb182 - Lead O/S - Feb/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/10

Hidden - 2nd - Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/10

Ice pitch quite hacked to pieces, make exit rather tricky. Otherwise pretty straight forward, given the bomber snow.
Karlos - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/10 with Ian Archer

Fantastic nick.
Wotcha - Solo O/S - 31/Jan/10

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jan/10

TerryB - Solo O/S - 31/Jan/10

Great weather and good conditions, some nice ice on P2. Led P1 and P2.
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Paul Sheehan, Ian Moore

Chris Harding - 2nd - 30/Jan/10 with Paul Lester

Conan - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Chris Michalak

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/10

Moving together
greenroom - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/10 with Tom Swannick

moved together, fantastic snow conditions, practically ran up it. pitched the ice fall.
twoplates - AltLd - 25/Jan/10 with frith wood

Great conditions - icefall really thick. Soloed rest of route
Tom Phillips - 2nd O/S - 25/Jan/10 with dick

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/10 with Jon Lury

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jan/10

The chimney was an ice pitch running with water.
crowberry gully - AltLd - 22/Jan/10 with Ross McGibbon

petegunn - AltLd - 22/Jan/10 with Davina

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/10

Lee Sheard - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/10 with John Hubbard

Second time up South East Gully with Andrea - excellent condition - fell off the ice fall twice - Andrea had made it look like a breeze when she led up it so I could not understand why I found it difficult! I also could not get over that block which comes next (the one where you can thrutch up on your knee!) so I went right and got my leg up on the slab. Fabulous climb - we loved it!!
Shuttsie - 2nd rpt - Jan/10 with Andrea Sales

Hidden - Lead - Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 31/Dec/09

Shuttsie - 31/Dec/09 with Andrea Sales

took longer than expected. Snow not consoladated. Small ice pitch was good. Ice screw would have been nice to have.
alan barnes - Lead - 28/Dec/09 with sam d

Backed off as the top of the crux pitch contained some crumbly and rotten ice/snow - a thaw was in progress! Various other parties appeared to complete the route after we backed-off however...
Jonny M - AltLd dnf - 14/Feb/09 with Gary Bebb

A nighttime ascent - didn't start until around 11pm and finished at 1.30 am the following morning! Got home at 0540 :-)
Bob - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/09 with Steve Brock

Crap snow, not much ice, felt hard and another pair on the route reckoned it went at about IV (wouldn't know though as I've never done one!)
andrew sandercock - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/09 with jon armstrong

1st winter climb
teflonpete - 2nd β - 07/Feb/09 with Diccon

Ice pitches were thin & a bit chopped. Sporting!
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/09 with Guido

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Feb/09

Quite deep & firm snow, virtually no ice. Crux pitch thin but not too bad.
DSM - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/09 with Andy Gittins

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 01/Feb/09 with George reah

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Feb/09

Hidden - Solo - 10/Dec/08

rob1 - AltLd - 06/Dec/08 with Tom Martin

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Mar/08

kenneM - AltLd - Feb/08 with Steve Marner

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/07

In some of the best nick seen for years.Good vertical 15' pitch in the middle plus chockstone and other 'interesting bits'
iceferret - AltLd - 23/Mar/06 with Ian Bradley, Laura P

PenJD - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/06 with Dave Evans

To avoid queuing took the lefthand variation then traversed back into the main gully.
Tobias at Home - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/06 with SteveM

SteveM - AltLd - 18/Mar/06 with Tobs

biggianthead - 18/Mar/06 with HT

solo most, top roped the very wet icicle
lithos - Lead - 12/Mar/06 with Simon C

Quite thin conditions, good frozen turf, a few hard rock steps/chockstones/chimneys. Mostly soloed, carrying 2 60m ropes (as you do), used rope to lead the easy-but-scary bit avoiding the semi-attached icicle, and the rather hard chimney below the top chockstone. Fantastic day out, haven't the faintest idea what the grade was!
Simon Caldwell - 11/Mar/06 with Rob and Carmen

ewen - AltLd - Mar/06 with the kettle

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - Mar/06 with val p

John Kettle - AltLd - 2006

nakedave - Solo - 2006

GuyM - 2006 with sheona

clams - 2006 with Liam

John Pickles - Lead O/S - Mar/02

year approximate
Richard Alderton - 2nd - 2002 with Digby

Spurned the Ice pitch as seemed the wrong place to try my first ice fall when solo. So more 2/3 and not grade 3
tom bre - Solo O/S - 30/Dec/99

climbed the chimney direct (hard) - some brittle water ice
EddieA - AltLd - 04/Jan/97 with Simon W

Neil Conway - AltLd O/S - Dec/96 with Steve Hardy

Andy Say - Solo - 17/Mar/96

KingM - Solo - 27/Jan/91

Lead P1 3 & 5
KingM - AltLd - 06/Jan/91 with Paul "Doc" Lishman

Hidden - Aug/90

Hidden - Aug/90

stuart58 - Solo - 12/Apr/89

biggianthead - Solo - 01/Mar/86

andy tetsill - Lead - Jan/85 with Manchester Poly

Hidden - 1985

biggianthead - Solo - 18/Mar/84

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 18/Feb/84

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Feb/84

epic - no crampons and only 1 or 2 axes!
JohnHutch - Lead - Mar/82 with JWD, HRB

Lord of Starkness - AltLd - 1978 with Steve Howe

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/77

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Dec/76

Finished Central Gully, came back down and did South East - a great romp - no great difficulties - not grade III, more like grade II this day.
allmag - AltLd O/S - Feb/76

Hidden - AltLd - 1976

mikej - Lead - 13/Feb/70 with Graham Evans

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gavinpeach, quarryman, Puma, Hidden, Jonathan Spooner, Hidden, iksander, Hidden, Hidden, beckycoles, Jim Haydock, Will Smith

Voting
Total votes cast 97
hard IV0 of 49
IV0 of 49
easy IV7 of 49
hard III14 of 49
III22 of 49
easy III2 of 49
hard II/III3 of 49
II/III1 of 49
easy II/III0 of 49
3 Stars18 of 48
2 Stars27 of 48
1 Star3 of 48
0 Stars0 of 48
Bag of .....0 of 48
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Style of ascent

Soloed28 of 211 (13.3%)
Lead35 of 211 (16.6%)
Followed26 of 211 (12.3%)
Alt Leads97 of 211 (46.0%)
Unknown25 of 211 (11.8%)

'Climbed'125 of 211 (59.2%)
clean O/S73 of 211 (34.6%)
clean β1 of 211 (0.5%)
clean rpt6 of 211 (2.8%)
dnf6 of 211 (2.8%)