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Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update (05/05/10) - Tawny Owls are nesting on the ledge where Central Climb breaks out left. These are substantial birds capable of defending a nest site - please avoid routes on the main buttress until mid-June.
Rockfax Description
18m. Wandering but worthwhile and doesn't have the teeth you might expect. Climb round the flake and follow the cracks rightwards into the groove of Central Route. Up this, then follow the ledge back left and finish delicately up the slab (tiny wires). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Working round/past the flake at the bottom of the climb comprises the crux section. Working up the crack with good hand jams gives the route a satisfying feel. Eases off at the overlap with central climb (S) which allows for a placement before a tricky traverse (good feet on ledge, hands used for balance on blank slab) to a large pocket, which takes a small wire, use smeary feet to bridge onto the fluting to the right to reach hidden jug on the arete to the right at head height to finish.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chrismadd | 3 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don't disturb the owls - steer clear until June as advised on the main crag page. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Don't disturb the owls - steer clear until June as advised on the main crag page. |
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| Chris F | 12 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: seem to remember micro gear being useful for exit up slab. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: seem to remember micro gear being useful for exit up slab. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chevin Buttress
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Aspire but No Higher
Grade: VS 5b ***
(Woodhouse Scar)