Vampire's Ledge* VS 5a

Rockfax Description
18m. Wandering but worthwhile and doesn't have the teeth you might expect. Climb round the flake and follow the cracks rightwards into the groove of Central Route. Up this, then follow the ledge back left and finish delicately up the slab (tiny wires). © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Working round/past the flake at the bottom of the climb comprises the crux section. Working up the crack with good hand jams gives the route a satisfying feel. Eases off at the overlap with central climb (S) which allows for a placement before a tricky traverse (good feet on ledge, hands used for balance on blank slab) to a large pocket, which takes a small wire, use smeary feet to bridge onto the fluting to the right to reach hidden jug on the arete to the right at head height to finish.

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This climb is in 98 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/15

Jamesmoly - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/15

gladys - 2nd - 02/Jun/15

BnB - 20/May/15

Tough for VS, but not sustained enough for HVS. 3 stars!!
Wizzy - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/14

lloydrees91 - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/14

spragglerocks - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/14 with Steve M

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Sep/13

Felt more like HVS to me. Quite powerful and technical moves early on and top slab very exposed. Extremely glad of the small cam protecting last moves otherwise I would have probably backed off. 3 star route I think.
ralphio - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/13

braders94 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Rob Cooper

Dino Dave - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Will

lanky and weak - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/12 with Craig Usher

wayne higgins leeds uk - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12

Marq - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Helen C (LMC)

Bill Lawrence - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with dave warburton, andy lawrence

robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 30/May/12 with Simon Petty

ojp - 2nd - 30/May/12 with Robin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/12

Awkward thrutchy crux near the bottom. Should have tried a head jam!
Will242 - 2nd - 20/May/12 with pastep

Found a lovely positive crimp in the diagonal crack that saved me having to jam!
pastep - Lead - 20/May/12 with Will242

mfisher - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Neil

Neil R - 2nd - 31/Jul/11 with Matty

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Kieran Myles

A wounderfull testing route one of my favourites so far. The wording in Rock Fax and grading make this sound easier than it is. The start 'climb round the flake' farly steep reasonably blank face starting under a large block! fab moves to get round this and good gear in the flake. Micro cams made life very easy and better protected than could have been but the travers on the ledge is exposed and gearless making a very exiting finish for a lead climb.
mr spoon - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/11

tom.n.walker - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11 with Han Griffiths

Seconded for Josh before, good climb!
dainbramaged999 - Lead β - 04/Jun/11 with Andy Farnworth

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/11

rcwaterworth - Lead - 09/May/11

spragglerocks - 2nd O/S - 03/May/11 with Steve M

SteveM - Lead - 03/May/11 with Rachael

dainbramaged999 - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Josh Smith

Crux at bottom of climb which was a shame as the rest of the climb seemed much less bold after that. some tricky placements but pretty chuffed to finish the climb despite a couple of bleeding fingers
smithjmw46 - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Nick Fry

andy mcc - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11 with Arifa Chakera

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/11

nick ferro - 17/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/10

want to lead this next. tricky first part dave fell off first time he tried it- it was a bit wet and pollished, and exciting top as dave placed a put in the shot hole that fell out i think. it was funny
ekaterina sigida - 2nd - 11/May/10 with Dave Green

Great hidden holds. Two star class route.
Dave Warburton - Solo O/S - 28/Apr/10

Hidden - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/09

crag was very green and wet so decided to top rope the routes as you just could not tell when your foot or hand might pop off.
Russell Lovett - TR O/S - 31/Aug/09 with andrew haigh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/09

christensena - 2nd - Jul/09

had beta on pro for top ledge traverse. BETA FOLLOWS! . . . . . . . - small friend, in this case a borrowed 0.25 wild country cam, which was most welcome as the traverse is delicate (and I am not ;-D). Bats round the buttress as I belayed felt appropriate.
pebbles - Lead β - 23/Jun/09

MeMeMe - Lead - 23/Jun/09 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jun/09

As an escape from Waster. Odd but fun little traverse at the top.
jkarran - Lead - 03/Jun/09 with Pete

Led this OS before but hated the start this time. Too much bouldering has spoilt me.
petellis - 2nd dog - 03/Jun/09 with Cleric James Koran

Matthew Coleman - TR dog - 12/May/09 with Lesley

Nice route, worth more than 1 star. quicky tricky start and a perfectly exposed finish.
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Steve Ramsden

shouter - 2nd - Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08

andy mcc - 2nd - 30/Dec/08 with Robin Nicholson

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/08

petellis - 2nd - 10/Jun/08 with Alpha Blue

GrantB - Lead - 10/Jun/08 with Alpha Red

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 21/May/08 with Joe

riven - 2nd O/S - 21/May/08 with Chriswallis2

petellis - Lead O/S - 21/May/08 with Jenny Clarke

kitkat78 - Lead O/S - 14/May/08 with SteveM

SteveM - 2nd O/S - 14/May/08 with Kat

dicey top section. adds interest
Mattyk - Lead rpt - 08/May/08 with Paul Giddings

mje1398 - Lead O/S - 07/May/08 with John M

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/08

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

innes - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Ruth

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with robeverybody

I absolutely loved this climb. Traverse at top of slab is fantastic.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 2007 with Bryn

clive-greenwood - 2nd - 30/Jun/06 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - Lead - 30/Jun/06 with Clive Greenwood

adam carless - 2005 with James Rowe

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/04

A nightmare, first moves were ok, but quickly into a very muddy, green and wet crack in which a nut key was the best gear. Finishes with a traverse which feels really exposed, and a final smearing move up to the top. Never again. month is a guess
adam carless - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with James Rowe?

Brown - Solo O/S - 14/Feb/04

kitch22 - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/03 with Daniel Metcalfe

kitch22 - TR - 28/Jun/03 with Adam Maybury

lankystreakof - 2nd - 28/Jun/03 with John Walsh

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/01 with Richard Tomlinson

Mattyk - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/01 with Tim Kavanagh

Hidden - TR O/S - 16/Aug/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

OriginalGeckoboy - 1998

nickdonohue - Lead - 25/Apr/95 with John Proctor

crater - 2nd - 19/Jul/94

few times since 90s and fun traverse
lithos - 1990 with all sorts

Tom V - 1990 with Glenn Watson

Pete Pozman - Lead rpt - 18/May/89 with Sue Hartley, John Byrne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

My first VS lead (well in the 1982 YMC guide), done at dusk with bats flying around the buttress.
craig h - 1987

Hidden - Lead - 1987

rilem - 2nd - 1980

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 29/Mar/74

mikej - Lead - 31/Aug/72 with Stewart Grant

greenbuoy - Lead - 07/Jul/71 with Bob ?

Total votes cast 40
hard HVS0 of 14
HVS0 of 14
easy HVS0 of 14
hard VS2 of 14
VS12 of 14
easy VS0 of 14
hard HS0 of 14
HS0 of 14
easy HS0 of 14
hard 5b0 of 13
5b0 of 13
easy 5b0 of 13
hard 5a0 of 13
5a11 of 13
easy 5a1 of 13
hard 4c1 of 13
4c0 of 13
easy 4c0 of 13
3 Stars1 of 13
2 Stars7 of 13
1 Star5 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat