Rockfax Description
10m. The shallow crack fizzles out short of the top, but not before all the hard climbing is finished. The runners are positioned just below mid-height. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the slab to a hard mantle leads you standing at the top of it and pondering your next move. The way is obvious, but the moves are desperately hard and the gear a long way away.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 17/May Lead RP
Hidden 17/May Lead RP
willackers 21/Apr Solo RP

Definitely lived up to its name! I've ticked the block now :) Getting a bit warm for gritstone smearing.....

Tom Peckitt
mrajyandy 09/Aug/14 TR RP
ebf 03/Aug/14 TR RP

Top roped it clean 1 time out of 10. Not quite ready for the lead. At least 2 tech grades harder than Ephedrine which I led earlier in the day!

mrajyandy 03/Aug/14 TR dnf
Nez ??/2014 -
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
munch88 05/Sep/13 Solo dnf

Really green needed cleaning had plants growing out the crack and top was really green and loose

dominic lee 05/May/12 Lead β
molly, nathan lee
minT(HUN) ??/2012 TR RP
Peter Smith 11/Sep/11 TR dnf
Carolyne Doran, Mick Leather
akhughes 14/Aug/11 Solo RP

Only two top ropes, both clean, then the solo. Awesome route. But i think you would deck from the top moves even with a rope.

ebf 13/Jul/11 TR O/S

Climbed clean on-sight (apart from a silly slip on the very bottom move) with no beta. It's hard from the end of the crack and don't fall off the top moves (which are the hardest) or you'll hit the floor. Tempted to go back and lead it. Very nice route indeed.

Chris Voisey, Paul Hermes
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Kirsty McGhie-Fraser 04/Jun/10 TR dog
Niels 04/Jun/10 TR dog
Bewerly Park
Peter Holder 08/May/10 Lead RP
Daz Graham
Hidden 06/May/10 TR dog
CBA ?/Mar/10 -
Sean_J ??/2010 TR RP

clean second go

Hidden 12/May/09 Lead dnf
nige 05/Oct/03 Lead RP
mark hounslea
Hidden ??/2000 TR dnf
Dave Musgrove ?/May/99 Lead rpt

Probably one of my best gritstone leads! It was FA cup final day and I only set out to hold Tim's Rope but there was a team of 4 others all trying it on a rope. I had a couple of top rope goes and found I could do it fairly easily so after a couple of the others had led it I decided to give it a go. Bingo! My first real head-point.

Dave Sarkar, Tim Lowe
Mike Owen 05/Jul/98 -
Tim Lowe, Elaine Owen
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S

no pads

Dave Musgrove Jnr 26/Sep/94 Lead O/S
Chris Wentworth
ian caton ?/Sep/93 TR
Cowflinger 11/Apr/92 Lead
craig h ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/89 TR O/S
scree ?/Aug/85 TR
Dave Musgrove 17/May/85 TR O/S

Not my normal practice to top rope but never thought I'd be good enough to lead routes like this. Head-pointing hadn't really been invented at this stage.

rob.grafton ??/1984 TR
barry maybank
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 7
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set