10m. The shallow crack fizzles out short of the top, but not before all the hard climbing is finished. The runners are positioned just below mid-height. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the slab to a hard mantle leads you standing at the top of it and pondering your next move. The way is obvious, but the moves are desperately hard and the gear a long way away.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Definitely lived up to its name! I've ticked the block now :) Getting a bit warm for gritstone smearing.....
Top roped it clean 1 time out of 10. Not quite ready for the lead. At least 2 tech grades harder than Ephedrine which I led earlier in the day!
Really green needed cleaning had plants growing out the crack and top was really green and loose
|dominic lee||05/May/12||Lead β||
molly, nathan lee
|Peter Smith||11/Sep/11||TR dnf||
Carolyne Doran, Mick Leather
Only two top ropes, both clean, then the solo. Awesome route. But i think you would deck from the top moves even with a rope.
Climbed clean on-sight (apart from a silly slip on the very bottom move) with no beta. It's hard from the end of the crack and don't fall off the top moves (which are the hardest) or you'll hit the floor. Tempted to go back and lead it. Very nice route indeed.
Chris Voisey, Paul Hermes
|Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor||??/2011||-|
|Kirsty McGhie-Fraser||04/Jun/10||TR dog|
|Peter Holder||08/May/10||Lead RP||
clean second go
|Dave Musgrove||?/May/99||Lead rpt||
Probably one of my best gritstone leads! It was FA cup final day and I only set out to hold Tim's Rope but there was a team of 4 others all trying it on a rope. I had a couple of top rope goes and found I could do it fairly easily so after a couple of the others had led it I decided to give it a go. Bingo! My first real head-point.
Dave Sarkar, Tim Lowe
Tim Lowe, Elaine Owen
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||26/Sep/94||Lead O/S||
|Dave Musgrove||17/May/85||TR O/S||
Not my normal practice to top rope but never thought I'd be good enough to lead routes like this. Head-pointing hadn't really been invented at this stage.