Rockfax Description
14m. A Yorkshire classic. Climb right of the arete until it is possible to move awkwardly left - runners can be poked in before you commit, though they are tricky to place. Once established, the slabby groove gives fine climbing to an exit on the right. This upper section is often wet in the winter. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Allan Austin Classics, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Sam Marks 17/Oct Lead O/S
Keith Swainson 11/Jul Lead O/S
with Matt Levick, James Turner
scottcoates 18/Jun Lead O/S
DPaul 11/Jun Lead O/S

Mucky top slab,never 3 stars .

Hidden 24/May Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May Lead O/S
Mike Todd 10/May Lead

Dirty Slab made for scarry finish

Freshprintce 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Tom Peeper 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Rich
Tom Peeper 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

interesting lichen coated finish

with Rich
richardw87 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Superb lead by Mr Davison, very green on the top slab...will be back to lead this one!

with Tom
swoosh 09/Jun/14 Lead
with Will Smith
Teappleby 24/Apr/14 Lead
with dad
fjg123 ?/Mar/14 Lead
Nez ??/2014 -
theomoore 15/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Took a big fall from the top - it's really dirty/green up there, wouldn't recommend it at the moment. Will be back.

David_Gledson 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Bertbee 20/May/13 Lead dog

Out of condition, made it feel a feck of a lot harder than 5b! Came off after going round the arÍte, missing the obvious (from below) pocket.

with Ben
Andrew Wilson 22/May/12 TR
Matt Cooke 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Matt Harle 18/Feb/12 Lead O/S
vanderz 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/11 2nd O/S
akhughes 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Meg
robman 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Jack00 14/Aug/11 Lead β
with Andy Graham
Alex Thompson 29/Jun/11 Lead β

Got on the lead after Haydn backed off. Took a while to commit as I thought the route went up the arete! Slab was pretty dirty for a *** E1.

with Nick ?, Haydn Martin
Hardonicus 29/Jun/11 2nd
adamwesthead 08/Jun/11 Lead RP

Excellent! First E1 lead in 10 years. I'm back! Zeb dogged it haha Was wet as well on the first ledges but just had to do it. Used the 3 and 4 Black diamond micros and the funny italian thing for the first time

with Zeb
zebster 08/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Adam
adamwesthead 06/Jun/11 TR rpt

3 ascents with the shunt.

pastep 15/May/11 Lead

Quite tough, quite scary.

with Chris V, Woody
Hidden 11/May/11 Lead O/S
markalmack 11/May/11 2nd β
Hidden 02/May/11 TR O/S
Steff007 ??/2011 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
adi bryant ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Jake
Graeme Hammond 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/10 2nd dog
mattyork2 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Lee Rodgers
Dave Foster 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Third trip to Caley before I could get on it, either busy or raining. Worth the wait. Tough for E1.

with Si
ojp 04/Jul/10 2nd

top harder then the lower half

with Dave
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
adamwesthead 22/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Zeb
zebster 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Adam
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Bill Lawrence 15/Jun/10 Lead β

led off guys gear

with Bradley Cowley, Guy VG
braders94 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S
GuyVG 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S

what a return to trad, nearly fell off. great.

simon kimber 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with anne, Tom Walker
Hidden 19/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/May/10 2nd O/S
Ewan Russell 19/May/10 Lead O/S
with Huw
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Spongeclimber 16/Mar/10 2nd
roberto18 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/10 2nd O/S
RossG ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Oct/09 2nd rpt
Dave Warburton 26/Sep/09 Solo O/S


PaulHermes 01/Jul/09 2nd
with woody vcc
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead dnf
lithos 24/Jul/08 Lead rpt

At last no major problems - in fact surprisingly easy this time considering the mess i made of it 2 weeks ago

Will Smith 15/Jul/08 2nd dog

Had to rest and then pull on gear for the crux move over the bulge. Did the rest cleanly.

with Rob
lithos 12/Jul/08 Lead dog

just got too knackered to do the pull by pissing about with gear and traversing back and fwd *loads* of times

joe larner 03/May/08 Lead O/S

Nice route, much better gear low down than id have thought.

design crisis 04/Apr/08 Solo
Alex Mason 25/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Was out bouldering on my own but carrying my rack and got a belay off chris, intended to do high noon, but time and commitment did not allow, great route though.

with Chris Kay
JSA ??/2008 -
Sean_J ??/2008 Lead O/S
feilx 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Heather
MeMeMe 05/Jun/07 Lead
with Andy
Luke Brooks 25/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Very, very, very green at the top, and at the start, the middle was ok though!

Hidden 21/Jul/06 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Jul/06 2nd
Nick Taylor 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S

3rd ever E1!

Hidden 11/May/06 Lead O/S
reg_measures 09/May/06 Lead O/S
with timmy elson
jonnyboy 20/Mar/06 Lead O/S

only because high noon didnt get sent

Karl Bromelow ??/2006 -
Cragrat Rich ?/Sep/05 Lead

Led free, 2 years after seconding. Bit of a leap of faith job round the corner which turns out not to be very stressful... or does it? Sorry

Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
WB 31/Jul/05 Lead O/S

a bit scary

with Ross
Hidden 08/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Brown 20/Feb/04 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead β
Hidden ??/2003 2nd β
Mattyk 12/Jun/02 Lead O/S

3rd ever e1

with Neil
Paul Figg 10/Jun/01 Lead
Just Another Dave ?/Jun/01 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
gypsy3006 ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 TR O/S
chrishedgehog 03/May/99 Lead β
with Paul Gummy
jfmchivall ??/1998 -
innes ?/Sep/96 Lead
with CJ
Neil R 09/Jul/96 Lead
with John CMC
andrew300169 15/May/96 Lead O/S

Good route which was tough at HVS

with Climbing Club
craig h 04/May/96 Lead rpt
with Jim Mellor
andrew300169 ?/Sep/95 Lead dnf

bottled it but was expecting easy HVS

leathers 12/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Evans
Hidden 16/May/94 -
Andy Say 07/May/94 Solo
Hidden 16/Jun/93 Lead O/S
John Southworth 22/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Kenton Cool
rob.grafton 30/Mar/93 Lead
with Bruce
Roget 14/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
ewjudge 03/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Dave Broughton
whispering nic 05/May/91 Solo
with noj
lithos ??/1991 2nd
with john byrne
mik1miller ??/1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/90 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/90 TR O/S
Pete Pozman 31/May/90 Lead rpt
with John Byrne
craig h ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
Colin Matheson ?/Aug/86 2nd
with Euan Cameron
Pete Pozman 18/Jul/85 2nd O/S
with Mark Gray
Tim Bateman 05/Jun/85 2nd
Hidden 29/May/85 TR
Tim Bateman 18/May/85 2nd
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
bullybones ??/1985 Lead
Tim Bateman 14/Nov/84 2nd
Hidden ??/1982 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/79 Lead
GeoffG 18/Apr/79 2nd
with tony bowker
Dave Musgrove 10/Sep/78 Solo

Soloed but with a sling and nut attached to my harness to protect the crux!

GeoffG 31/Oct/76 Lead
with tony bowker
Howard Dixon ??/1976 Solo
mikej 06/May/75 TR
with Geoff Williams
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
db79, Lenny, ebf, richardw87, gmatthew, Hidden, Hidden, Graham Booth, Bertbee, mfisher, Hexman, coombsy, vix, jak.kelly, Peter Smith, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 21
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set