There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Gain the ledge at the high apex via the undercut out left and eliminating the low ledge on the right. Going direct from the first undercuts is Twister Direct, f7A. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Graded 7b for gaining the ledge at the high apex via the undercut out left and eliminating the low ledge on the right. More like 6c/7a slapping direct for the lower 'shoulder' from the bigger undercut. All rather contrived.
Sam's Peak Adventures , 2021 Goals , Crushing 7Bs , Winter Boulders 2022/23 , Changing James's pyramid , Mix of bits
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Carlos Montero | 2 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I’ve now added a direct line on UKC that goes at 7A. If you’re not going to the furthest left underclings you ain’t doing the 7B version! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I’ve now added a direct line on UKC that goes at 7A. If you’re not going to the furthest left underclings you ain’t doing the 7B version! |
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ChossChampion | 9 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Direct version, don't understand the point of making a contrived and unpleasant move out left just to make it 7b? Direct version is very nice and probably low 7a for the vertically challenged. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Direct version, don't understand the point of making a contrived and unpleasant move out left just to make it 7b? Direct version is very nice and probably low 7a for the vertically challenged. |
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Cris Fontano | 5 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: First 7B outdoors, felt a bit soft as it went on 4 or 5 tries. Still super happy to have sent it :D | ||
Show beta
βeta: First 7B outdoors, felt a bit soft as it went on 4 or 5 tries. Still super happy to have sent it :D |
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Josh Hadley - Lattice Training | 2 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sent fast after Ollie showed me the way. Cool method with Gaston and twist to undercling | ||
Show beta
βeta: Sent fast after Ollie showed me the way. Cool method with Gaston and twist to undercling |
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Grade: f7B ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)