UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
Gain the ledge at the high apex via the undercut out left and eliminating the low ledge on the right. Going direct from the first undercuts is Twister Direct, f7A. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Graded 7b for gaining the ledge at the high apex via the undercut out left and eliminating the low ledge on the right. More like 6c/7a slapping direct for the lower 'shoulder' from the bigger undercut. All rather contrived.

Ticklists

Sam's Peak Adventures , 2021 Goals , Crushing 7Bs , Winter Boulders 2022/23 , Changing James's pyramid , Mix of bits

Feedback

User Date Notes
Carlos Montero 2 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I’ve now added a direct line on UKC that goes at 7A. If you’re not going to the furthest left underclings you ain’t doing the 7B version!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I’ve now added a direct line on UKC that goes at 7A. If you’re not going to the furthest left underclings you ain’t doing the 7B version!
ChossChampion 9 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Direct version, don't understand the point of making a contrived and unpleasant move out left just to make it 7b? Direct version is very nice and probably low 7a for the vertically challenged.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Direct version, don't understand the point of making a contrived and unpleasant move out left just to make it 7b? Direct version is very nice and probably low 7a for the vertically challenged.
Cris Fontano 5 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First 7B outdoors, felt a bit soft as it went on 4 or 5 tries. Still super happy to have sent it :D
Show beta
βeta: First 7B outdoors, felt a bit soft as it went on 4 or 5 tries. Still super happy to have sent it :D
Josh Hadley - Lattice Training 2 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sent fast after Ollie showed me the way. Cool method with Gaston and twist to undercling
Show beta
βeta: Sent fast after Ollie showed me the way. Cool method with Gaston and twist to undercling

Logged Ascents

210 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jerry's Traverse

Grade: f7B ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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