Lubyanka*** E3 5c
[Angle slighted tilted (it's not overhanging) but still in a great position!, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A fantastic bold and exposed route with some technical climbing and a grand finale.
1) and 2) As for Subsidiary Grooves.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb the technical groove above the stance which is best gained from the left. Belay in a large triangular bay.
4) 5b, 15m. Follow the corner behind the bay, exit right and go down to a spike belay.
5) 5c, 20m. Go directly up the slab, pass an overlap to gain a short corner. Climb this to a tricky exit left onto a short slab and a ledge.
6) 5c, 22m. A bold and scary pitch. Hand traverse the quartz rail rightwards above the void to the arete. A little further round the corner is a pocket for a cam placement that offers limited protection for the difficult step up from just right of the arete. Climb the groove above on rather poor gear, first on its left, then step right across it just below a roof. Turn the roof onto easier ground. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Alex's Wales ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth.

Photo: Angle slighted tilted (it's not overhanging) but still in a great position! © Gezzer
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 120 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

Lead P1+2, 4 & 6. Especially enjoyed the last pitch.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/15 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 2015

phil64 - 2015

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/14

AdrianP - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14

I led (guidebook) pitches 3,5 and 6. Maybe I was missing something, but though the 5b corner was the hardest! Pretty bold on all other pitches, particularly P3 with a hard, unprotected move above a leg-breaker chasm. Awesome mountain adventure, also cold!
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Pablo

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/14 with Nick Bullock

p1, 3 and 5
HAJ Francis - AltLd O/S - Jun/14

So cold. sam ended up linking p3 with p3 or 4 of Long Kesh, brutal.
Jay.Carr - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with samwillo

samwillo - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with Jay Carr

oliverpcain - AltLd O/S - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/13

Toby Dunn - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Dave Pickford

Led top 'crux' pitch, amazing!
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Gwen Lancashire

Samuel Wainwright - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Pat

datoon - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with K

khawk - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with DT

Led the 5b and the top pitch, what a great day out.
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 06/Jun/13 with FatRob

Mentally taxing. Super route.
frank ramsay - AltLd - 04/Jun/13 with Aaron

led 5b pitch
Aaron Lines - AltLd - 04/Jun/13 with frank ramsay

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with misha nepogodiev

A great day out with Tim. Started from the hut at 8.30am and were back down mid-afternoon, had lunch and went on to do Ten Degrees North. I thought the crux was the first 5c pitch, which was hard and bold to start - a good lead by Tim. I did the 5b corner, which was tricky. Tim led the next 5c pitch, which was also tricky but also bold in places. I did the final pitch with the famous traverse, which was fine, as was the move to get stood up on the break - looked harder than it actually was. The same goes for the moves under the roof and onto the slab - kept thinking it would get hard but it just kept getting easier, the layback moves on the the slab are only 5a. There's adequate gear as well. A great route.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Tim Newton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/12

1,3;5 conor didnt fancy the top pitch after traversing out and watching on him didnt inspire me to have a go. We didnt know about crucial cam might have gone. Instead he finished up subsidary groove which gave a great pitch.
Ewan Russell - AltLd - 29/May/12 with Connor

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12 with John Orr

Hidden - 2012

captain dringo - 2012

Did this after a squirrel ate through .. or at least weakened my gear loops dropped whole rack!!!!!!!! hallelujah ... got it back with bonus gear!
Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idle - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11

mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with robert drynda

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Jun/11 with Helena Robinson

Marcus - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10

soph - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/09

Not as classic as it is made out to be IMHO. Loose top out spoils it a bit.
Cassidy - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/09 with Robin, Jules, Graham, Will

Rob Pitt - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Nick Arding

billb - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with jbvulliamy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/08

Snapped a hold off crux pitch and took a right whipper. Nailed myself on slab below. Slightly sore but pushed on and finished route before going down for tea and medals
Ed Booth - Lead - 27/Jul/08 with Tim Evans

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/08

Led pitches 1,3,5&6.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Brian

Marcus - 2008

jeffmcd56 - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Rob

Led practicaly entire route, soloed up main wall pitches, led 1st hard pitch, Henery next pitch then I led top two pitches.
Brown - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/06 with Henry

shoulders - AltLd - 27/Jul/06 with chrisevans

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/06

Chubbard - Lead dog - 13/Jun/06 with C Godfrey

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/06 with john nuttal

Bern - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Guy

shark - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/05 with John Codling

Mike led the lower 6a pitch, i led the headwall pitch at the top.
Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Mike Grant

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005

frost - Jul/03 with D Garry

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 31/May/03

Hidden - 01/May/03

NeilGriffiths - AltLd O/S - Jun/02 with James Hubbard

Roget - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/00 with jon

caveman_chris - Lead - May/99

mux - AltLd - 1998

Hidden - AltLd - 1998

sadams - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/97 with John Boyle

Great route. I led the scary top pitch.
Dave Musgrove - AltLd O/S - 30/May/97 with Nigel Baker

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/96

I lead scary top pitch
Gregory - AltLd O/S - Apr/96 with andy mcarthy

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/95 with Nick Ashton

D Tempest - AltLd - 09/Jul/95 with Rick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 07/Jul/94 with Robert Durran

Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/94

whispering nic - Solo - Jul/93 with Ma

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Jun/92

great final pitch even as the second
Andy Edgar - AltLd - 1992 with Hugh Woodland

Hidden - AltLd - 1991

Dave Rumney - Lead - 14/Jul/90

Somehow climbed the direct finish by mistake.
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - Jun/90 with Tim Hakim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/89

phardman - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/89 with Simon Marsh

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/88

sadams - AltLd - 11/Jun/88 with Andy Mitchell

I led the hand traverse with great trepadtion to a difficult move up and finished rapidly once the good holds were reached, really 'out there'
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 15/May/88 with John Mckeever, Luke Steer

andy gittins - 1988

Superb Climb!
Gezzer - AltLd - 09/May/87 with Steve Burns

Hidden - AltLd - 09/May/87

Hidden - AltLd - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

keefe - 01/Jun/85 with Johnny Adams

Our ascent was livened by an earthquake aftershock! You expect yourself to shake not the crag.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/84 with R. Graham

Hidden - AltLd - 30/May/83

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 17/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/82 with Alan Bennett

redjerry - 2nd O/S - Jul/82 with Bob Duncan

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/82 with Elaine Owen

uphillnow - AltLd - Jun/80 with john stanger

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 1980

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Longsufferingropeholder, wi11, chris wyatt, Adam Booth, Ian Jones, alp79, Ropeboy, Dibdawg, Infinite Granite, Just Another Dave, samrad, Mr Wild, mr mills, sugy, centurion05, French Erick, lukea, Ched, a_radiohead_fan, spacey, IOAN D

Total votes cast 59
hard E40 of 20
E40 of 20
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hard E312 of 20
E37 of 20
easy E31 of 20
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E20 of 20
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5c14 of 19
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β