Gwynedd > Cyrn Las >
 
Lubyanka*** E3 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Subsidiary Groove
 
Long Kesh >>
A fantastically bold and exposed route with some technical climbing and a grand finale. 1 and 2) 4b, 45m. As for Main Wall. 3) 5c, 18m. Climb the groove above the stance, enter from the left to belay in a bay. 4) 5b, 15m. Follow the corner behind the bay, exit right and go down to a spike belay. 5) 5c, 20m. Go directly up the slab, pass an overlap to gain a short corner. Climb this to a tricky exit left onto a short slab and a ledge. 6) 5c, 22m. Rail rightwards along the break above the void and make a tough move to get stood up just left of the arete. Climb the groove above past a roof onto easier ground. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 85 logbooks, and on 23 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Bottled top pitch, traversed out and couldnt see any good gear anywhere above. Gutted to find out in North Wales Rock when we got down about the crucial cam pocket! Oh well! Finished up subsidiary groove.
conorcussell - AltLd - 29/May/12

1,3;5 conor didnt fancy the top pitch after traversing out and watching on him didnt inspire me to have a go. We didnt know about crucial cam might have gone. Instead he finished up subsidary groove which gave a great pitch.
Ewan Russell - AltLd - 29/May/12 with Connor

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12 with John Orr

Hidden - 2012

captain dringo - 2012

Did this after a squirrel ate through .. or at least weakened my gear loops dropped whole rack!!!!!!!! hallelujah ... got it back with bonus gear!
Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

EagerAndy - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11

mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with robert drynda

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10

soph - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/09

Not as classic as it is made out to be IMHO. Loose top out spoils it a bit.
Cassidy - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/09 with Robin, Jules, Graham, Will

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/08

Led pitches 1,3,5&6.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Brian

Hidden - 2008

centurion05 - 2007

jeffmcd56 - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Rob

Led practicaly entire route, soloed up main wall pitches, led 1st hard pitch, Henery next pitch then I led top two pitches.
Brown - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/06 with Henry

shoulders - AltLd - 27/Jul/06 with chrisevans

Chubbard - Lead dog - 13/Jun/06 with C Godfrey

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/06 with john nuttal

Bern - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Guy

shark - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/05 with John Codling

Mike led the lower 6a pitch, i led the headwall pitch at the top.
Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Mike Grant

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005

frost - Jul/03 with D Garry

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 31/May/03

Hidden - 01/May/03

NeilGriffiths - AltLd O/S - Jun/02 with James Hubbard

Roget - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/00 with jon

mux - AltLd - 1998

sadams - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/97 with John Boyle

Great route. I led the scary top pitch.
Dave Musgrove - AltLd O/S - 30/May/97 with Nigel Baker

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/96

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/95 with Nick Ashton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/94

whispering nic - Solo - Jul/93 with Ma

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Jun/92

Hidden - AltLd - 1991

Dave Rumney - Lead - 14/Jul/90

I led the hand traverse with great trepadtion to a difficult move up and finished rapidly once the good holds were reached, really 'out there'
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - Jun/90 with John Mckeever

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/89

phardman - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/89 with Simon Marsh

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/88

sadams - AltLd - 11/Jun/88 with Andy Mitchell

andy gittins - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 09/May/87

Hidden - AltLd - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

keefe - 01/Jun/85 with Johnny Adams

Our ascent was livened by an earthquake aftershock! You expect yourself to shake not the crag.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/84 with R. Graham

Superb Climb!
Gezzer - AltLd - 1983 with Steve Burns

Mark Kemball - 17/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

redjerry - 2nd O/S - Jul/82 with Bob Duncan

Mike Owen - 01/Jun/82 with Elaine Owen

David Smith - AltLd - Jun/80 with john stanger

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Dibdawg, Si dH, Infinite Granite, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Just Another Dave, Hidden, Hidden, samrad, Hidden, Mr Wild, mr mills, sugy, 2halfs, centurion05, datoon, French Erick, lukea, Ched, a_radiohead_fan, spacey, IOAN D

Voting
Total votes cast 35
hard E40 of 12
E40 of 12
easy E40 of 12
hard E37 of 12
E34 of 12
easy E31 of 12
hard E20 of 12
E20 of 12
easy E20 of 12
hard 6a0 of 11
6a0 of 11
easy 6a0 of 11
hard 5c1 of 11
5c10 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 11
5b0 of 11
easy 5b0 of 11
3 Stars9 of 12
2 Stars1 of 12
1 Star2 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 85 (1.2%)
Lead11 of 85 (12.9%)
Followed2 of 85 (2.4%)
Alt Leads40 of 85 (47.1%)
Unknown31 of 85 (36.5%)

'Climbed'50 of 85 (58.8%)
clean O/S32 of 85 (37.6%)
clean β1 of 85 (1.2%)
dogged1 of 85 (1.2%)
dnf1 of 85 (1.2%)