Rockfax Description
Simply amazing. Three hard pitches with the last one being stunning.
1) and 2) As for Subsidiary Grooves.
3) 5c, 18m. From the belay, move right past the groove of Lubyanka and climb the next groove - all very technical and sustained - then traverse left to the triangular ledge belay on Lubyanka or combine with the next pitch for cleaner rope-work.
4) 6a, 17m. From the right-hand end of the ledge make a mind-bending move to gain the hanging groove in the arete. Follow this with difficulty to a good ledge and another shared belay over on the left on a good spike.
5) 5c, 40m. The big one. Move up the slab above heading right below the big overhang/diagonal groove. Move right along here, stepping down slightly near the arete where the groove becomes more vertical. Regain the now-overhanging groove and bridge up in the most spectacular of positions until it eases into a slab. Continue on to a good belay above. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , Top Five Pass E4's , North Wales Rock Graded List , Good E4s , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , UK Lonely Leads , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , Definitive *** Llanberis , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Another lifelist? , Best Before 2025
User | Date | Notes | ||
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treesrockice | 10 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Would recommend linking P 3&4 if you have the guns, belaying off left was a bit faffy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Would recommend linking P 3&4 if you have the guns, belaying off left was a bit faffy. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Gideon Quarries [Glyn Rhonwy])