Rockfax Description
One of the first routes climbed on the cliff, and a real mountaineering adventure. Start below and left of Heather Shelf.
1) 20m. Scramble up to the left-hand end of Heather Shelf. Traverse leftwards to the second rib and climb it to belay beneath the big corner.
2) 27m. Climb the corner until it is possible to step left onto the prow. Follow this to a big vegetated ledge.
3) 30m. Climb the broader rib above to another, larger heather-covered ledge.
4) 30m. Climb the wall rightwards to reach the vague chimney on its right-hand side. Ascend this, and follow a quartz band rightwards to a ledge.
5) 23m. Scramble up to belay on the left end of the grassy ledge, beneath the Horns - a prominent clean buttress of rock.
6) 20m. The groove in the centre of the wall leads to another, steeper groove. Climb this until a hard move rightwards leads to the base of the slab below the Horns.
7) 8m. Climb the polished slab. From here 100m of exposed scrambling leads to the summit, it is best to break this into 25m pitches, unless you feel happy enough to move together or solo 400m off the ground. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS.

ChristyCole 09/Aug AltLd O/S
with Dan
Hidden 09/Aug TR O/S
Hidden ?/Aug AltLd O/S
odari 07/Jun -
Purely 06/Apr AltLd O/S

Mixed up the pitches at the start. Did some of 2, 3, 5, 7. Slab was tricky even in the dry. Route looked like it hadn't been clim climbed in ages. Mucky and overgrown in places and still a bit green and slimy. Cracking day out in fantastic still, sunny conditions, though.

with Mat Adams
tonevert ??/2015 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Hidden ??/2015 -
adam06 ??/2015 Lead
with dario
suds_01 ??/2015 -
HumphreyJ20 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Started in the rain but after it stopped and the rock started to get drier it Made for An epic day well worth doing!

with Ross Millar, Paul
khumbu-Kid 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with jay, Valentino
Valentino 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Jay
Echna 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
j4kub 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with claire gibson
Hidden 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Alasdair88 25/Jul/14 Solo O/S

Route finding was a bit epic as everything on the crag appears to match the description. Climbed a close approximation though.

Mark Kemball 17/Jul/14 Lead

"Interesting" route finding, particularly on the first pitch. Nowhere harder than V.Diff, if the correct route is found, but I would not like to be a V.Diff leader on this route!

with Bill Kemball
Hidden 13/Jul/14 AltLd
MoWalker3 13/Jul/14 AltLd

In big boots in the wet, needed combined tactics to get up the polished slab! A superb day out.

with Ross
Babika 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Started raining as we geared up. Greasy, grassy and few quality moves. Topping out was the best bit.

with jamie skinner
timmyhobby 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
hannahbannana 23/Jun/14 2nd
JamesWilliams 03/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Moved together for alpine training. 2hrs to do the route and what a route it is! great exposure and great views. finished off the day by finishing the Snowdon horse shoe.

Dan724 03/Jun/14 AltLd β

Moved together for 90% of the route. Took 2 hours. Pitched two 5m sections due to the lack of grip offered by my fell shoes. Would've been better in big boots! Contrary to what people say about Lliwedd the rock quality was generally very good with great gear. Worth at least 2 stars, probably the best adventurous climb I've done in the UK.

Hidden 16/May/14 AltLd O/S
rbharries 16/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Danger olly, neils EW
stratandrew 04/May/14 Lead O/S

One of the best mountain crags in the UK - and the quietest. Led all pitches in rock shoes. 5 hrs. Great route. V tricky below the horns.

Joe Innes 20/Apr/14 AltLd

Moved together

with James Dexter
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead
jez_palmer 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S

7 hrs, rained on during last described pitch, slab running with water

tedburt 07/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Big boots Led P1,4,5,7

with Aaron Burdett
morgan91 10/Nov/13 AltLd
Matthew Robinson 01/Sep/13 Solo
Katex 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3 and 5/6 joined. Quite hard for VD especially the tricky step!

with Chloe, Simon Edwards
Hidden 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead
bsparky 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Great day out on a beautiful day. Well worth the walk in.

OllieF 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
DOVEY 05/Jun/13 Lead

Great sunny day! hand glider in speaking distance!(hello) Sea king buzzing near us.

with jack & oilly
JamesLloyd ?/Jun/13 Solo O/S
tim20 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
antonymcphillips 16/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
ollyroberts 13/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Big boots. Very wet!

with Ben
Desi Gillespie 23/May/12 2nd
with Chris Goldsmith
Hidden 21/May/12 AltLd O/S
jasoncash 21/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
andycash 06/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with jason cash
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 15/Oct/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/11 AltLd
jossjones ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
mrchewy 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3, 5, first half of 6, the polished slab pitch and 40m of the scrambling.

fizzychewitt 03/Jul/11 Lead
with Dale
MarekM ?/Jul/11 AltLd
ian d f 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
mheyes101 04/Jun/11 2nd
pearson9596 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
risby 14/May/11 2nd O/S

Started raining as we put on our climbing shoes and helmets. After five or six pitches got a bit stuck. Couldn't safely ab down so finished climbing stream in gully on left. Started before noon, finished 8pm. Very cold, hail, gales. Numb fingers and feet. Apparently good intro to mountaineering !

with Steve Wales
jaimer 19/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Led climbing pitches then alternated the scambling (in the dark). Topped out around 7.30. Very wet after heavy rain.

with Phil
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
pearson9596 ??/2011 2nd O/S
Steeve 20/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

last few pitches in the dark, was amazing.

with will
willoates 20/Nov/10 AltLd

in the dark and mist, good fun, although the last pitch was very hard for Vdiff I thought.

with Steve
Hidden 13/Nov/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd
Nigel R Lewis 25/Sep/10 AltLd

Led the odd pitches, but we got lost around P4 and just took a direct line tto the summit

with Sylvia Noorbhai
Philippa Arding 09/Sep/10 Lead

took us 6 hours, climbing with Gav and Furtemba ( on another rope). Heavy showers, very greasy, rock fall. Good adventure!

with Finso Sherpa
Hidden 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
chriswitts1 02/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3,6.

with Rich Hopkins
stevepotter 20/Jun/10 Solo
Hidden 25/May/10 AltLd
Gezzer 24/Apr/10 AltLd

Good mountaineering day. Moved together for most of it, pitched a couple of the more cheeky pitches. Walked up to the summit of Snowdon and back down the PYG track.

with Nick Ellaway
dannymoo99 17/Apr/10 AltLd dnf

Went off route, got lost, hit by rockfall had to ab out 3/4 way up. Nightmare.

with Tom Shooter
tobydunford 16/Apr/10 Solo O/S
alancash100 ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
tiga271 08/Aug/09 AltLd

led second pitch, got a bit lost up a gulley ( old peg ) and had to tracvers out back onto route

with mark20
simozzer 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Matt
mark20 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

We went off route (VS variation up gully past rusty peg?) and I had trainers on. The rest is lovely though

rocklobster 08/Aug/09 AltLd
with Simon
bob johnson 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

made a bit of hash of the start being lurred into retrieving gear left behind went off route and wasted some time - and as for that crux pitch! surprised me a bit - but you know how v diff's go

with Bram
Shad 28/Jul/09 Lead

Poured it down all day, horrendous. Don't think for one meter we were actually on the correct route!

Hidden 05/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 26/May/09 AltLd O/S

Nice and easy, forgot guidebook but took roughly right route.

with Fraser
climbingrev 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant long route on a perfect day. Started at 8:00am, finished at 5:00pm. Perfect. First route of this length. Last 2/300 ft of scrambling may be lets the line down. But generally a great day out.

with Josh Jones
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
thompson1000 27/Jul/08 AltLd
with tom
mikelaing ?/May/08 Lead

This is a route of real quality and a far better experience than anything found on the East Face of Tryfan. All the pitches are interesting and link without any scrambling sections in between, far better than Grooved Arete any day.

with Luke
Nicole Almond ?/May/08 2nd

it was a really long but easy climb.

with Dad
petekeron ?/May/08 AltLd O/S


with Jonathan Burgess
The Bad Cough ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Hidden ??/2008 -
Meg Jones 07/Oct/07 AltLd
with Tim Griffin and James Coles
jscoles ?/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Tim Griffin
edmitchell 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Wet and slimy. Off route at end, climbed a final pitch with one point of aid - Don't think it was the correct way to reach the 'polished slab'. Scrambling at top was fairly unpleasant and loose

with kai ren
Hidden 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Glyn 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
davefount 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
tanssop 19/Jul/07 2nd
with Ian
John HW 22/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Rhys HW, Cath
Hidden 22/May/07 AltLd
Tom Stoddart 07/Apr/07 -

Moved together

with Iain Leverett
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden 28/Dec/06 2nd O/S
Phil Jennings 08/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with James Brown
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Miles Grout
fifth ??/2005 -
Hidden 06/May/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/03 -
Hidden 21/Jun/03 2nd
Will Gordon ?/Jun/03 Lead dnf

Retreated after 4 pitches due to bad weather.

with Owen Peat
Hidden 07/Apr/03 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/02 AltLd
mikehenesy ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S

Cracking sunny day. A good standard early morning Rob Beadnel 11.30 start. Had to leggit for the last couple of pitches of midges.

with Rob Beadnel
Hidden ?/Jun/01 -
alan moore ??/2000 -
snowcat 10/Jun/99 2nd
with Janet Korsak, Colin Watts
sixties 25/May/99 AltLd

rare occassion warm and sunny climed in tee shirts

with hrd
Hidden ?/May/99 -
babymoac 17/Aug/96 Lead

Followed by Graham & Julia, cracked the wine open halfway up

with Liz
puddingstone 17/Aug/96 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 15/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/96 AltLd dnf
brady 11/Apr/96 AltLd O/S
with Graham Jones
Rob Davies 08/Apr/95 Solo

Much more exposed than E Face of Tryfan

michaelb1 ?/Jul/94 Lead
with A Kenny
Hidden 11/Nov/90 AltLd
tlr 30/May/90 Solo
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Jul/89 AltLd
with Mark Jones
Ian Archer 28/May/89 Lead O/S
with MWP, Neil Watson
andy@ark ?/Aug/88 AltLd

Rained off first attempt. On return Richard led most of route. Nasty big cliff.

with Richard Law (WMC)
mikej 10/Jul/83 Lead
with S
Hidden ?/Jul/79 Lead
Hammy 11/Jun/76 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
Falko 18/Oct/75 AltLd O/S
with Al W.
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Votes cast 29
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set