No guidebook so first two pitches previously unclimbed. Definitely on the correct line for the upper part. An adventure in the hills with an old mate - what could be better?petemeads - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Paul Parker
sgl - AltLd - 09/Sep/14 with will
Hidden - 09/Sep/14
Hidden - AltLd - 07/Aug/14
rpt, 2+4. Cracking route in the sun :)
jezb1 - AltLd - 04/Aug/14
will moy - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/14
JenRoberts - 2nd - 24/Jul/14 with Ollie
robman - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/14
really nice route need to pay attention to the guide book
mark32 - AltLd - 22/Jun/14 with andrew lester
Andrew Lester - AltLd - 22/Jun/14
myoung - AltLd - 20/Jun/14 with Helen
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/14
Hidden - AltLd - 12/May/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14
Walked in from Cwm Pennant as it made a better mountain day. Wet section on the start of the 2nd pitch doesn't touch the holds.
MoWalker3 - 21/Apr/14 with Cormac
stemill - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with Chris Manasseh
Finished up Direct Line by accident.
Whitty2012 - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with Alex Hughes, Tom Whitford
Hidden - AltLd - 19/Apr/14
Led pp 2 + 4
Chris Manasseh - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with Ste Millington
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/14
Lovely pocketed slab at the top. The traverse pitch below this is enjoyable too.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Megan Beaumont
Route finding was a bit tricky.
JezH - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14 with Sachi, Oli
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14
Alternated leads with Jez and Oli. I took the 3rd (hardest) pitch at 4c, went off-route almost immediately and ended up leading the final pitch of Kirkus Route Direct at 5b. Some slightly scary moments routefinding and running out of gear but made it to the top and was happy doing some hard routes. The approach is exhausting.
jsmcfarland - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14 with jez hawksworth, Oli Hawk
Si - 2014
mike mo - 2014
Allanfairfechan - 2014
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/13
Led P1 and P3.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Dan Matthewman
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Aug/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13
ipegg - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Tony Walentowicz, Richard Apthorp
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13
lead pitches 2 and 4, whole climb was briliant! a swim in the lake afterwards aswell
JamesLloyd - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13
Abi Chard - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Jan
Lead P1 and 3, was off route on P3 possibly on the direct route. Amazing climb and had the crag all to ourselves
CM1992 - AltLd - 11/Jul/13 with Allan Miller
alpinismo.uk - AltLd - 09/Jul/13
Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/13
Led P2 and 4. P4 was superb!
LozM - AltLd - 06/Jul/13 with Mark J
Prof. Outdoors - AltLd - 06/Jul/13 with Wendy
The climb may not have been amazing but the day out was definitely worth it.
Nobody else around amazing views and a bit of climbing. Top quality mountain day.
Route finding was also a bit awkward but we managed to get to the top in one piece.
Jones_88 - AltLd - 02/Jun/13
got lost on most pitches...
adam06 - AltLd - 01/Jun/13 with Wyn Jones
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/May/13
Richard Thombs - May/13
Hidden - AltLd - 02/Apr/13
Hidden - 2013
Johnywilks - 2013
Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 22/Sep/12 with Sam James
Lead all pitches but the route description bore little resemblance to what I climbed. Tough 5a move to exit the wall. Great day though and great route
oldcheese - Lead - 01/Sep/12
Matt Harmon - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Stefie Cray
Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 11/Aug/12 with Clare
Pitches 1 + 3
stefie c - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Matt Harmon
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Giles
luke2442 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Fred Lyon
Very nice route that gets better as you go on. Never very hard climbing but route finding requires thought. Lead p2&p4
jezb1 - AltLd - 15/Jul/12
Hidden - 15/Jul/12
Johnywilks - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12
Hidden - 22/May/12
fizzychewitt - Lead - 22/May/12 with Arwel, Marion
moelfras - 2nd - 22/May/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12
Hidden - AltLd - 29/Mar/12
Hidden - AltLd - 28/Mar/12
xusa - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Gareth Borthwick
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12
P1 only, then abbed off
Harri777 - 2nd - 24/Mar/12 with Toby Knight
I led p1 and 3. Fantastic weather, beautiful location.
Binder - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Max A
Led first pitch, then had to abseil off as we'd run out of time.
gravity - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/12 with Harriet Kirk
Will Sheaff - AltLd - Mar/12
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - 2012
tumbling wizard - Lead - 2012
Stone Idol - 2012
gw3285 - AltLd - 10/Dec/11
Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/11
steve prior - AltLd - Aug/11 with Andy C
Brilliant first two pitches (led pitch 1) then had to abseil off as the light drizzle became relentless rain. Will definitely be back!
Babika - AltLd dnf - 30/Jul/11 with Pete Randall, Kiwi Pete
Rain forced a retreat after pitch 2.
Pete Randall - AltLd dnf - 30/Jul/11 with Bill Thurston, Rosi
Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Ann S
Another classic Kirkus route in the bag.
Ann S - 2nd - 26/Jul/11 with Adam
Only led the first pitch and then abseiled off, due to crowds above moving really slowly due poor route finding. Will be back!
Zoomer - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with Julia Bloomer
Jules 210681 - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with glenn bloomer
Steve Woollard - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with Kevin Colclough
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11
HVS start. Brittain-variation finish.
Chris M - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with Tommy B
Brilliant route, memorable climb. Rich led 1 & 3, I led 2 then at the third belay torrential stairods from on high rained down, I led out on the top pitch of Direct route (VDiff) which was a vegetated waterfall, glad to top out without slithering off!
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Rich
Rich God 3 - AltLd - 21/Jul/11 with The Ivanator
kdalzell - AltLd - 04/Jun/11 with Liam Fleming
Difficult route finding on pitches 1 & 3 but PN found a way up. Spaced gear in places. Great route with big mountain feel. Painful toes after descending in rock shoes.
egg-man - AltLd - 04/Jun/11 with Pete Nugent
Liam FLeming - 04/Jun/11 with karen dalzell
Left car park about 13.00 back 20.30. Very hot day. Led p1 & 3, route finding is intricate. For me. p4 was the best. Descent gully is staightforward but tiring on feet in rock shoes.
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 03/Jun/11 with Graham Phillips
The Blue Bucket - Lead - May/11
Jim Gaffney - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Claire Poppett
1 led P2 and P4, top pitch really makes this climb!
clairepoppett - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Jim Gaffney
Got lost on P2 (traversed too far and too high I think) but thoroughly enjoyable once back on route. Top pitch is especially superb. Gear sometimes a little spaced but climbing generally steady.
barney800 - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Katherine Shaw
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/11
Hidden - AltLd - 28/Apr/11
Route finding near top was little tricky but a cracking route.
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Owen Jones
matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/11
Hidden - 2011
Rory Shaw - 2011
Hidden - 2011
PAJames - 2011
PAJames - 2011
ColinD - 2011
Sean Kelly - 2011
Hidden - 2011
djprepie - AltLd - 22/Aug/10 with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)
Last pitch had small holds and limited protection.
Matthew Scott-Chalmers - AltLd rpt - 08/Aug/10
Led pitches 1,3
I carried on a bit too long on the traverse on pitch 1 and ended up in the sentry box on Kirkus Direct.
Anyway good climb, but not remarkable, although it is in a stunning location. Rock was superbly grippy. However generally spaced gear, and extrememly difficult to find placements, virtually all cracks are flared. I guess that's what gives it VS grade.
Alaric - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Nigel Mackwood
jolyon.cohen - 2nd - 26/Jun/10 with Dave Wright
davidwright - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Joe Cohen
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10
pitches 1 and 3
chippyjeff - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Ben R
Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Dan Matthewman
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/10
Hidden - AltLd - 08/Apr/10
Rob Evans - Lead O/S - 2010
Hidden - Oct/09
brian watson - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with scott titt
Hidden - Lead - 26/Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd - 15/Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09
Daniel Wrightson - 31/May/09 with Steve Gould, Andrew Stoke-Rees
Route finding was easy enough.
Conan - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Philippa Reader
Calder - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Andy G
Dave Thompson - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with John Evans
mje1398 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/09 with John M
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09
Very good route, excellent climbing especially on the 1st and 4th pitches, route finding was probably the hardest challenge!
Neil Pacey - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Tanya Savage
Lead P2&4, but P1 we did of the Direct route HVS 5b
Sardien - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Matthew Jaques
I'm glad Neil was route-finding ...exciting climbing, stunning place, mostly positive handholds.
Tanya Savage - 2nd - 19/Apr/09 with Neil Pacey
Welshy - AltLd - 12/Apr/09
Led all 4 pitches. Thought this was pretty stiff for VS actually. Especially the crux move on P1 on the rising crack traverse and P4 moving out under the overlap and also traversing out left to top-out (above the LH overlap). Quite confusing route-finding so i could have been off-route!
Wilbur - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Caine
alicia - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Bridget
B pitch 1 and 3, A pitch 2 and 4 with slight HVS variation at top.
bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Alicia
i'm pretty sure we were off route on the last pitch - seconded due to injury induced scaredy-catness
viking - 2nd - Apr/09 with wilbur
matjaques - AltLd - Apr/09 with Serinda
Led 1/3. Found pitch one an awkward struggle. Loose rock, off balance and suspect gear. Pitch 3 was amazing.
LP - AltLd - 2009
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/08
Suzie Wilson - AltLd - 30/Aug/08 with Paul
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08
centurion05 - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/08 with rusty
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/08
Led pitches 2 & 4
bullwinkle - AltLd rpt - 07/Jun/08 with Jamie
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/May/08
hils theaker - 2nd dnf - 18/May/08 with Adam
saillord - 2nd O/S - 18/May/08 with Emlyn
Lizzy Andrew - 2nd - 18/May/08 with Emerlin
Dropped Alec's screwgate
emlynroberts - Lead - 18/May/08 with Alec Folley, Lizzy Andrew
Sean Kelly - 2008
peter myers - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Jaap Overtoom
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/07
Great adventure, superb route - if you can follow the route description!
Rog Wilko - Lead - 07/Sep/07 with Debbie Wilkinson
intersection996 - AltLd - 29/Aug/07 with Tim
Gman - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Dave
Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/07
Direct variant pitches 1+2
edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 27/May/07 with kai ren
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/07
First VS second - loved the route! Gentle introduction to the world of VS - classic route with plenty to grab hold of
mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 26/May/07 with John Martin
Hidden - Lead - 26/May/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/07
Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/07
Easy climbing but route finding was quite tricky.
chris sm - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Pippa Froggatt
rabid - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Sam&RichH
barni - AltLd - 2007 with Paul James
khawk - AltLd - 08/Sep/06 with WH
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/06 with Charlie Everett
Sylvi - AltLd - 10/Jun/06 with Scott
Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/06
with jamie smith
spoony84 - AltLd - 2006
very nice route in a nice setting. crux is the traverse on pitch 1
leon - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Steven Davidson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/05
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/05
Brucifer - AltLd - Jun/05 with alan rosier
The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Mick B
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/04
The Oracle - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/04 with Bill Sutherland, Alan Gill
Jamie B - AltLd - Jun/04 with Kris Quayle
Hidden - 2004
Led Ps 1&3.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/03 with Johnny
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - Jul/03 with Richard Bower
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 15/Jun/03 with Don Sargeant
kp64zl - AltLd - Jun/03 with Chris Imray
bullybones - 2000
zero six - Lead O/S - 2000
Hidden - 1999
brady - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/97 with Andy Carr
ill_bill - AltLd - Jul/97
Hidden - Lead - 05/Jul/96
colin milton - AltLd - 24/Jun/94 with eric milton
Andy Say - Solo - 13/Jun/93
Ched - Lead O/S - 1993 with Glyn
Exhilirating route and first VS in mountains
Scott McRae - 2nd O/S - 26/May/92 with Martin Hore
WB - 1992
Hidden - AltLd - 1992
RichardMc - AltLd - 18/May/91 with Geoff Dunne
Hidden - 2nd - Sep/89
Fisrt pitch of the Direct at 5a
sdht - Apr/89
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Oct/88
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/83 with DAVID SMITH
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Solo - 1982
leland stamper - 2nd - Mar/81
Chris Craggs - 1980
JohnHutch - AltLd - Oct/78 with BA
RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 27/May/78 with Dave Langmead
Falko - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/77 with Howard Lancashire, Al W.
My guidebook contains the comment "probably the best route in the whole world!"
Falko - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/77 with Al W.
Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 27/May/77
Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/76
pneame - Lead - Oct/75
granitbahn - AltLd - 1975
Nigel Bond - AltLd - 22/Jun/74 with Pete Bott
mikej - AltLd - 10/Oct/70 with Geoff Williams
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 25/May/69 with John Stainforth
eroica64 - AltLd - 15/Jul/67 with Percy aka Mike Spring