Kirkus's Route** VS 4c
[Looking up the top pitch of Kirkus's Route, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
The best line up the main slab gives good sustained climbing that is never desperate. Start as for Ordinary Route.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb the wall to ledges below a forked diagonal crack. Climb the right-hand branch of this until you can pull back up left to a ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb up a shallow scoop above and right, past a fixed sling. A groove leads up and left to a belay by a spike next to a ledge.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb up and slightly left to a good ledge.
4) 4c, 20m. Climb up to a bulging section and pass this on the right. Easier ground leads to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kirkus Routes, North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Looking up the top pitch of Kirkus's Route © Crofty
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 236 logbooks, and on 52 wishlists.

first pitch hardest, gear good throughout. stone fall on ridge not effecting climb.
1-2-3-40 - AltLd - 17/Apr/15

nodwas - Lead - 16/Apr/15

Route finding was tricky. Thank God for the in depth description provide by rockfax
carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/15

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/15

BenRyle - AltLd rpt - 19/Mar/15 with Steve Daniels

No guidebook so first two pitches previously unclimbed. Definitely on the correct line for the upper part. An adventure in the hills with an old mate - what could be better?
petemeads - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Paul Parker

sgl - AltLd - 09/Sep/14 with will

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/14

johnkeith - AltLd - 07/Aug/14 with Michael Sandison

rpt, 2+4. Cracking route in the sun :)
jezb1 - AltLd - 04/Aug/14

will moy - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/14

JenRoberts - 2nd - 24/Jul/14 with Ollie

robman - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/14

really nice route need to pay attention to the guide book
mark32 - AltLd - 22/Jun/14 with andrew lester

Andrew Lester - AltLd - 22/Jun/14

myoung - AltLd - 20/Jun/14 with Helen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd - 12/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14

Walked in from Cwm Pennant as it made a better mountain day. Wet section on the start of the 2nd pitch doesn't touch the holds.
MoWalker3 - 21/Apr/14 with Cormac

stemill - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with Chris Manasseh

Finished up Direct Line by accident.
Whitty2012 - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with Alex Hughes, Tom Whitford

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Apr/14

Led pp 2 + 4
Chris Manasseh - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with Ste Millington

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/14

Lovely pocketed slab at the top. The traverse pitch below this is enjoyable too.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Megan Beaumont

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14

Alternated leads with Jez and Oli. I took the 3rd (hardest) pitch at 4c, went off-route almost immediately and ended up leading the final pitch of Kirkus Route Direct at 5b. Some slightly scary moments routefinding and running out of gear but made it to the top and was happy doing some hard routes. The approach is exhausting.
jsmcfarland - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14 with jez hawksworth, Oli Hawk

Si - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/13

Led P1 and P3.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13

ipegg - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Tony Walentowicz, Richard Apthorp

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13

lead pitches 2 and 4, whole climb was briliant! a swim in the lake afterwards aswell
JamesLloyd - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Jan

Lead P1 and 3, was off route on P3 possibly on the direct route. Amazing climb and had the crag all to ourselves
CM1992 - AltLd - 11/Jul/13 with Allan Miller - AltLd - 09/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/13

Led P2 and 4. P4 was superb!
LozM - AltLd - 06/Jul/13 with Mark J

Prof. Outdoors - AltLd - 06/Jul/13 with Wendy

The climb may not have been amazing but the day out was definitely worth it. Nobody else around amazing views and a bit of climbing. Top quality mountain day. Route finding was also a bit awkward but we managed to get to the top in one piece.
Jones_88 - AltLd - 02/Jun/13

got lost on most pitches...
adam06 - AltLd - 01/Jun/13 with Wyn Jones

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/May/13

Richard Thombs - May/13

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Apr/13

Hidden - 2013

Johnywilks - 2013

1. SP, 2. Jasper 3. ET, 4. SP Date?
SamP88 - AltLd - 2013 with Jasper Davie-Tettmar, Emma Tettmar

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 22/Sep/12 with Sam James

Sam James-Louwerse - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Alan James - UKC

Lead all pitches but the route description bore little resemblance to what I climbed. Tough 5a move to exit the wall. Great day though and great route
oldcheese - Lead - 01/Sep/12

Matt Harmon - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Stefie Cray

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 11/Aug/12 with Clare

Pitches 1 + 3
stefie c - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Matt Harmon

BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Giles

luke2442 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Fred Lyon

Very nice route that gets better as you go on. Never very hard climbing but route finding requires thought. Lead p2&p4
jezb1 - AltLd - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - 15/Jul/12

Johnywilks - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12

Led P 1,3.
neal - AltLd - 27/May/12 with John Roberts

Hidden - 22/May/12

fizzychewitt - Lead - 22/May/12 with Arwel, Marion

moelfras - 2nd - 22/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Mar/12

xusa - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Gareth Borthwick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12

P1 only, then abbed off
Harri777 - 2nd - 24/Mar/12 with Toby Knight

I led p1 and 3. Fantastic weather, beautiful location.
Binder - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Max A

Led first pitch, then had to abseil off as we'd run out of time.
gravity - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/12 with Harriet Kirk

Led p2
Will Sheaff - AltLd - Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

tumbling wizard - Lead - 2012

Stone Idle - 2012

gw3285 - AltLd - 10/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/11

steve prior - AltLd - Aug/11 with Andy C

Brilliant first two pitches (led pitch 1) then had to abseil off as the light drizzle became relentless rain. Will definitely be back!
Babika - AltLd dnf - 30/Jul/11 with Pete Randall, Kiwi Pete

Rain forced a retreat after pitch 2.
Pete Randall - AltLd dnf - 30/Jul/11 with Bill Thurston, Rosi

Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Ann S

Another classic Kirkus route in the bag.
Ann S - 2nd - 26/Jul/11 with Adam

Only led the first pitch and then abseiled off, due to crowds above moving really slowly due poor route finding. Will be back!
Zoomer - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with Julia Bloomer

Jules 210681 - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with glenn bloomer

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11

HVS start. Brittain-variation finish.
Chris M - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with Tommy B

Brilliant route, memorable climb. Rich led 1 & 3, I led 2 then at the third belay torrential stairods from on high rained down, I led out on the top pitch of Direct route (VDiff) which was a vegetated waterfall, glad to top out without slithering off!
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Rich

Rich God 3 - AltLd - 21/Jul/11 with The Ivanator

kdalzell - AltLd - 04/Jun/11 with Liam Fleming

Difficult route finding on pitches 1 & 3 but PN found a way up. Spaced gear in places. Great route with big mountain feel. Painful toes after descending in rock shoes.
egg-man - AltLd - 04/Jun/11 with Pete Nugent

Liam FLeming - 04/Jun/11 with karen dalzell

Left car park about 13.00 back 20.30. Very hot day. Led p1 & 3, route finding is intricate. For me. p4 was the best. Descent gully is staightforward but tiring on feet in rock shoes.
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 03/Jun/11 with Graham Phillips

The Blue Bucket - Lead - May/11

Jim Gaffney - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Claire Poppett

1 led P2 and P4, top pitch really makes this climb!
clairepoppett - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Jim Gaffney

Got lost on P2 (traversed too far and too high I think) but thoroughly enjoyable once back on route. Top pitch is especially superb. Gear sometimes a little spaced but climbing generally steady.
barney800 - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Katherine Shaw

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Apr/11

Route finding near top was little tricky but a cracking route.
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Owen Jones

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

ColinD - 2011

Sean Kelly - 2011

Hidden - 2011

djprepie - AltLd - 22/Aug/10 with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)

Last pitch had small holds and limited protection.
Matthew Scott-Chalmers - AltLd rpt - 08/Aug/10

Led pitches 1,3 I carried on a bit too long on the traverse on pitch 1 and ended up in the sentry box on Kirkus Direct. Anyway good climb, but not remarkable, although it is in a stunning location. Rock was superbly grippy. However generally spaced gear, and extrememly difficult to find placements, virtually all cracks are flared. I guess that's what gives it VS grade.
Alaric - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Nigel Mackwood

jolyon.cohen - 2nd - 26/Jun/10 with Dave Wright

davidwright - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Joe Cohen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10

pitches 1 and 3
chippyjeff - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Ben R

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Apr/10

Rob Evans - Lead O/S - 2010

wilsonthewarrior - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - Oct/09

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with scott titt

Hidden - Lead - 26/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Daniel Wrightson - 31/May/09 with Steve Gould, Andrew Stoke-Rees

Brilliant route. Route finding was easy enough.
Conan - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Philippa Reader

Calder - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Andy G

Dave Thompson - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with John Evans

mje1398 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/09 with John M

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

Very good route, excellent climbing especially on the 1st and 4th pitches, route finding was probably the hardest challenge!
Neil Pacey - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Tanya Savage

Lead P2&4, but P1 we did of the Direct route HVS 5b
Sardien - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Matthew Jaques

I'm glad Neil was route-finding ...exciting climbing, stunning place, mostly positive handholds.
Tanya Savage - 2nd - 19/Apr/09 with Neil Pacey

Welshy - AltLd - 12/Apr/09

Led all 4 pitches. Thought this was pretty stiff for VS actually. Especially the crux move on P1 on the rising crack traverse and P4 moving out under the overlap and also traversing out left to top-out (above the LH overlap). Quite confusing route-finding so i could have been off-route!
Wilbur - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Caine

alicia - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Bridget

B pitch 1 and 3, A pitch 2 and 4 with slight HVS variation at top.
bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Alicia

i'm pretty sure we were off route on the last pitch - seconded due to injury induced scaredy-catness
viking - 2nd - Apr/09 with wilbur

matjaques - AltLd - Apr/09 with Serinda

Led 1/3. Found pitch one an awkward struggle. Loose rock, off balance and suspect gear. Pitch 3 was amazing.
LP - AltLd - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/08

Suzie Wilson - AltLd - 30/Aug/08 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/08 with rusty

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

Led pitches 2 & 4
bullwinkle - AltLd rpt - 07/Jun/08 with Jamie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/May/08

hils theaker - 2nd dnf - 18/May/08 with Adam

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/May/08

Lizzy Andrew - 2nd - 18/May/08 with Emerlin

Dropped Alec's screwgate
emlynroberts - Lead - 18/May/08 with Alec Folley, Lizzy Andrew

Sean Kelly - 2008

peter myers - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Jaap Overtoom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/07

Great adventure, superb route - if you can follow the route description!
Rog Wilko - Lead - 07/Sep/07 with Debbie Wilkinson

intersection996 - AltLd - 29/Aug/07 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/07

Gman - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Dave

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/07

Direct variant pitches 1+2
edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 27/May/07 with kai ren

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/07

First VS second - loved the route! Gentle introduction to the world of VS - classic route with plenty to grab hold of
mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 26/May/07 with John Martin

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/07

Easy climbing but route finding was quite tricky.
chris sm - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Pippa Froggatt

rabid - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Sam&RichH

barni - AltLd - 2007 with Paul James

khawk - AltLd - 08/Sep/06 with WH

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/06 with Charlie Everett

Sylvi - AltLd - 10/Jun/06 with Scott

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/06

with jamie smith
spoony84 - AltLd - 2006

very nice route in a nice setting. crux is the traverse on pitch 1
leon - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Steven Davidson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/05

Brucifer - AltLd - Jun/05 with alan rosier

Pylon King Against Capit@lism - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Mick B

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/04

The Oracle - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/04 with Bill Sutherland, Alan Gill

Jamie B - AltLd - Jun/04 with Kris Quayle

Hidden - 2004

Led Ps 1&3.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/03 with Johnny

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - Jul/03 with Richard Bower

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 15/Jun/03 with Don Sargeant

kp64zl - AltLd - Jun/03 with Chris Imray

bullybones - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 1999

brady - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/97 with Andy Carr

ill_bill - AltLd - Jul/97

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jul/96

colin milton - AltLd - 24/Jun/94 with eric milton

Andy Say - Solo - 13/Jun/93

Ched - Lead O/S - 1993 with Glyn

Exhilirating route and first VS in mountains
Scott McRae - 2nd O/S - 26/May/92 with Martin Hore

WB - 1992

Hidden - AltLd - 1992

RichardMc - AltLd - 18/May/91 with Geoff Dunne

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/89

Fisrt pitch of the Direct at 5a
sdht - Apr/89

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Oct/88

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/83 with DAVID SMITH

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Solo - 1982

leland stamper - 2nd - Mar/81

Chris Craggs - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/78

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 27/May/78 with Dave Langmead

Falko - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/77 with Howard Lancashire, Al W.

My guidebook contains the comment "probably the best route in the whole world!"
Falko - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/77 with Al W.

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 27/May/77

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/76

Paul Clarke - 1976 with Dave Sharples

pneame - Lead - Oct/75

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 22/Jun/74 with Pete Bott

Hidden - Lead - 1971

mikej - AltLd - 10/Oct/70 with Geoff Williams

Seymore Butt - 1970

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 25/May/69 with John Stainforth

eroica64 - AltLd - 15/Jul/67 with Percy aka Mike Spring

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
sam@work, simonjkinsella, erbridger, Lucylou19, poeter210, Jeannie, alaster tonge, Mike Nolan, scree, Duncan Beard, daviesp2, alexanderjwatts, Katex, Rhys_Alun, Different Steve, leonjones, fozzybear, snakes77, beckycoles, stemill, Jimb0, twright180, Ralfy, texuspete, snave29, rabid, gareth r, My Gravity, TRNovice

Total votes cast 134
hard HVS0 of 47
HVS0 of 47
easy HVS0 of 47
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VS41 of 47
easy VS5 of 47
hard HS0 of 47
HS0 of 47
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hard 5a0 of 46
5a0 of 46
easy 5a1 of 46
hard 4c3 of 46
4c33 of 46
easy 4c4 of 46
hard 4b5 of 46
4b0 of 46
easy 4b0 of 46
3 Stars16 of 41
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat