Rockfax Description
The best line up the main slab gives good sustained climbing that is never desperate. Start as for Ordinary Route.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb the wall to ledges below a forked diagonal crack. Climb the right-hand branch of this until you can pull back up left to a ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb up a shallow scoop above and right, past a fixed sling. A groove leads up and left to a belay by a spike next to a ledge.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb up and slightly left to a good ledge.
4) 4c, 20m. Climb up to a bulging section and pass this on the right. Easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kirkus Routes, North Wales Rock Graded List.

Hidden 13/Oct Lead dnf
cameron_hall 10/Oct Lead O/S

Lovely route.

with Tim Crothers
Michael Allday 09/Oct 2nd O/S

didnt no where we were going so smAshed it straight up the center and ended up joining for the last 2 pitches

swmackey 26/Sep Lead O/S
drewish 30/Aug AltLd O/S


with Hetty, Peter Hooker
foostu4 07/Aug AltLd O/S
martin c 19/Jul Lead O/S

Enjoyed this. Ran 3 & 4 together also.

with Dave Thomas
Dafydd Llywelyn 08/Jun Lead O/S

Very nice climb, ran pitches 3 + 4 together which worked well! Bloody cold wind though.

with Katie
Merlin Fincken 08/Jun 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun Lead O/S
1-2-3-40 17/Apr AltLd

first pitch hardest, gear good throughout. stone fall on ridge not effecting climb.

nodwas 16/Apr Lead
carl_123 06/Apr AltLd O/S

Route finding was tricky. Thank God for the in depth description provide by rockfax

Hidden 06/Apr AltLd
BenRyle 19/Mar AltLd rpt
with Steve Daniels
Hidden ??/2015 -
suds_01 ??/2015 -
petemeads 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

No guidebook so first two pitches previously unclimbed. Definitely on the correct line for the upper part. An adventure in the hills with an old mate - what could be better?

with Paul Parker
sgl 09/Sep/14 AltLd
with will
Hidden 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
johnkeith 07/Aug/14 AltLd
with Michael Sandison
jezb1 04/Aug/14 AltLd

rpt, 2+4. Cracking route in the sun :)

will moy 04/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
JenRoberts 24/Jul/14 2nd
with Ollie
robman 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mark32 22/Jun/14 AltLd

really nice route need to pay attention to the guide book

with andrew lester
Andrew Lester 22/Jun/14 AltLd
myoung 20/Jun/14 AltLd
with Helen
Hidden 09/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 12/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
MoWalker3 21/Apr/14 -

Walked in from Cwm Pennant as it made a better mountain day. Wet section on the start of the 2nd pitch doesn't touch the holds.

with Cormac
stemill 19/Apr/14 AltLd
Whitty2012 19/Apr/14 AltLd

Finished up Direct Line by accident.

with Alex Hughes, Tom Whitford
Hidden 19/Apr/14 AltLd
Chris Manasseh 19/Apr/14 AltLd

Led pp 2 + 4

with Ste Millington
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Pete_Frost 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lovely pocketed slab at the top. The traverse pitch below this is enjoyable too.

with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
jsmcfarland 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Alternated leads with Jez and Oli. I took the 3rd (hardest) pitch at 4c, went off-route almost immediately and ended up leading the final pitch of Kirkus Route Direct at 5b. Some slightly scary moments routefinding and running out of gear but made it to the top and was happy doing some hard routes. The approach is exhausting.

Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Will Hunt 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3.

Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
ipegg 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Tony Walentowicz, Richard Apthorp
Hidden 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
JamesLloyd 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 2 and 4, whole climb was briliant! a swim in the lake afterwards aswell

Abi Chard 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Jan
CM1992 11/Jul/13 AltLd

Lead P1 and 3, was off route on P3 possibly on the direct route. Amazing climb and had the crag all to ourselves

with Allan Miller 09/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
LozM 06/Jul/13 AltLd

Led P2 and 4. P4 was superb!

with Mark J
Prof. Outdoors 06/Jul/13 AltLd
with Wendy
Jones_88 02/Jun/13 AltLd

The climb may not have been amazing but the day out was definitely worth it. Nobody else around amazing views and a bit of climbing. Top quality mountain day. Route finding was also a bit awkward but we managed to get to the top in one piece.

adam06 01/Jun/13 AltLd

got lost on most pitches...

Hidden 12/May/13 AltLd dnf
Richard Thombs ?/May/13 -
Hidden 02/Apr/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Johnywilks ??/2013 -
SamP88 ??/2013 AltLd

1. SP, 2. Jasper 3. ET, 4. SP Date?

with Jasper Davie-Tettmar, Emma Tettmar
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 22/Sep/12 Lead
Sam James-Louwerse 22/Sep/12 2nd
oldcheese 01/Sep/12 Lead

Lead all pitches but the route description bore little resemblance to what I climbed. Tough 5a move to exit the wall. Great day though and great route

Matt Harmon 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz 11/Aug/12 Lead
with Clare
stefie c 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 + 3

BenRyle 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Giles
luke2442 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Fred Lyon
jezb1 15/Jul/12 AltLd

Very nice route that gets better as you go on. Never very hard climbing but route finding requires thought. Lead p2&p4

Hidden 15/Jul/12 -
Johnywilks 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
neal 27/May/12 AltLd

Led P 1,3.

with John Roberts
Hidden 22/May/12 -
fizzychewitt 22/May/12 Lead
with Arwel, Marion
moelfras 22/May/12 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 28/Mar/12 AltLd
xusa 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Harri777 24/Mar/12 2nd

P1 only, then abbed off

with Toby Knight
Binder 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I led p1 and 3. Fantastic weather, beautiful location.

with Max A
gravity 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Led first pitch, then had to abseil off as we'd run out of time.

with Harriet Kirk
Will Sheaff ?/Mar/12 AltLd

Led p2

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
tumbling wizard ??/2012 Lead
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
gw3285 10/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead
steve prior ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with Andy C
Babika 30/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

Brilliant first two pitches (led pitch 1) then had to abseil off as the light drizzle became relentless rain. Will definitely be back!

with Pete Randall, Kiwi Pete
Pete Randall 30/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

Rain forced a retreat after pitch 2.

with Bill Thurston, Rosi
Adam1973 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Ann S
Ann S 26/Jul/11 2nd

Another classic Kirkus route in the bag.

with Adam
Zoomer 24/Jul/11 Lead

Only led the first pitch and then abseiled off, due to crowds above moving really slowly due poor route finding. Will be back!

Jules 210681 24/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Chris M 23/Jul/11 Lead

HVS start. Brittain-variation finish.

with Tommy B
The Ivanator 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, memorable climb. Rich led 1 & 3, I led 2 then at the third belay torrential stairods from on high rained down, I led out on the top pitch of Direct route (VDiff) which was a vegetated waterfall, glad to top out without slithering off!

with Rich
Rich God 3 21/Jul/11 AltLd
kdalzell 04/Jun/11 AltLd
egg-man 04/Jun/11 AltLd

Difficult route finding on pitches 1 & 3 but PN found a way up. Spaced gear in places. Great route with big mountain feel. Painful toes after descending in rock shoes.

with Pete Nugent
Liam FLeming 04/Jun/11 -
with karen dalzell
Pete Nugent 03/Jun/11 AltLd

Left car park about 13.00 back 20.30. Very hot day. Led p1 & 3, route finding is intricate. For me. p4 was the best. Descent gully is staightforward but tiring on feet in rock shoes.

The Blue Bucket ?/May/11 Lead
Jim Gaffney 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
clairepoppett 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

1 led P2 and P4, top pitch really makes this climb!

with Jim Gaffney
barney800 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Got lost on P2 (traversed too far and too high I think) but thoroughly enjoyable once back on route. Top pitch is especially superb. Gear sometimes a little spaced but climbing generally steady.

with Katherine Shaw
Hidden 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/11 AltLd
ritchierich 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Route finding near top was little tricky but a cracking route.

matt.woodfield 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
ColinD ??/2011 -
Sean Kelly ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
djprepie 22/Aug/10 AltLd
with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)
Matthew Scott-Chalmers 08/Aug/10 AltLd rpt

Last pitch had small holds and limited protection.

Alaric 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3 I carried on a bit too long on the traverse on pitch 1 and ended up in the sentry box on Kirkus Direct. Anyway good climb, but not remarkable, although it is in a stunning location. Rock was superbly grippy. However generally spaced gear, and extrememly difficult to find placements, virtually all cracks are flared. I guess that's what gives it VS grade.

jolyon.cohen 26/Jun/10 2nd
davidwright 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
chippyjeff 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

pitches 1 and 3

with Ben R
Hidden 11/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 AltLd
Rob Evans ??/2010 Lead O/S
wilsonthewarrior ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/09 -
brian watson 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with scott titt
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Daniel Wrightson 31/May/09 -
with Steve Gould, Andrew Stoke-Rees
Conan 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route. Route finding was easy enough.

with Philippa Reader
Calder 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Andy G
Dave Thompson 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with John Evans
mje1398 25/May/09 AltLd O/S
with John M
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Neil Pacey 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Very good route, excellent climbing especially on the 1st and 4th pitches, route finding was probably the hardest challenge!

Sardien 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Lead P2&4, but P1 we did of the Direct route HVS 5b

with Matthew Jaques
Tanya Savage 19/Apr/09 2nd

I'm glad Neil was route-finding ...exciting climbing, stunning place, mostly positive handholds.

Welshy 12/Apr/09 AltLd
Wilbur 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Led all 4 pitches. Thought this was pretty stiff for VS actually. Especially the crux move on P1 on the rising crack traverse and P4 moving out under the overlap and also traversing out left to top-out (above the LH overlap). Quite confusing route-finding so i could have been off-route!

with Caine
alicia 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Bridget
bridget143 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

B pitch 1 and 3, A pitch 2 and 4 with slight HVS variation at top.

with Alicia
viking ?/Apr/09 2nd

i'm pretty sure we were off route on the last pitch - seconded due to injury induced scaredy-catness

with wilbur
matjaques ?/Apr/09 AltLd
with Serinda
LP ??/2009 AltLd

Led 1/3. Found pitch one an awkward struggle. Loose rock, off balance and suspect gear. Pitch 3 was amazing.

Hidden 23/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Suzie Wilson 30/Aug/08 AltLd
with Paul
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
centurion05 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with rusty
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
bullwinkle 07/Jun/08 AltLd rpt

Led pitches 2 & 4

with Jamie
Hidden 21/May/08 AltLd O/S
hils theaker 18/May/08 2nd dnf
with Adam
Hidden 18/May/08 2nd O/S
Lizzy Andrew 18/May/08 2nd
with Emerlin
emlynroberts 18/May/08 Lead

Dropped Alec's screwgate

with Alec Folley, Lizzy Andrew
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
peter myers ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Jaap Overtoom
Hidden 12/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Rog Wilko 07/Sep/07 Lead

Great adventure, superb route - if you can follow the route description!

with Debbie Wilkinson
intersection996 29/Aug/07 AltLd
with Tim
Hidden 09/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Gman ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead
edmitchell 27/May/07 AltLd O/S

Direct variant pitches 1+2

with kai ren
Hidden 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 26/May/07 2nd O/S

First VS second - loved the route! Gentle introduction to the world of VS - classic route with plenty to grab hold of

with John Martin
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead
chris sm 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Easy climbing but route finding was quite tricky.

with Pippa Froggatt
rabid 17/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Sam&RichH
barni ??/2007 AltLd
with Paul James
khawk 08/Sep/06 AltLd
with WH
tom.e 11/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Sylvi 10/Jun/06 AltLd
with Scott
Hidden 28/May/06 Lead O/S
spoony84 ??/2006 AltLd

with jamie smith

leon ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

very nice route in a nice setting. crux is the traverse on pitch 1

with Steven Davidson
Hidden 09/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Brucifer ?/Jun/05 AltLd
Urgles ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Mick B
Hidden 30/Aug/04 AltLd
The Oracle 14/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Bill Sutherland, Alan Gill
Jamie B ?/Jun/04 AltLd
with Kris Quayle
Hidden ??/2004 -
Andy Clarke 18/Oct/03 AltLd O/S

Led Ps 1&3.

with Johnny
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jul/03 AltLd
with Richard Bower
Nigel Coe 15/Jun/03 AltLd
kp64zl ?/Jun/03 AltLd
bullybones ??/2000 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
brady 20/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Andy Carr
ill_bill ?/Jul/97 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jul/96 Lead
btinsen ??/1996 Lead
colin milton 24/Jun/94 AltLd
with eric milton
nigehughes ?/Apr/94 AltLd
with Dave Cameron
Andy Say 13/Jun/93 Solo
Ched ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Scott McRae 26/May/92 2nd O/S

Exhilirating route and first VS in mountains

with Martin Hore
WB ??/1992 -
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
RichardMc 18/May/91 AltLd
with Geoff Dunne
Hidden ?/Sep/89 2nd
sdht ?/Apr/89 -

Fisrt pitch of the Direct at 5a

Hidden 30/Oct/88 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jul/85 AltLd O/S
charlesmfrench 02/Jul/83 AltLd O/S


uphillnow 02/Jul/83 AltLd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1982 Solo
leland stamper ?/Mar/81 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ?/Oct/78 AltLd
RichardMc 27/May/78 AltLd O/S
with Dave Langmead
Falko 27/Jun/77 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire, Al W.
Falko 26/Jun/77 AltLd O/S

My guidebook contains the comment "probably the best route in the whole world!"

with Al W.
Bolt Phobia 27/May/77 AltLd
Rob Davies 08/Aug/76 Lead

We may have wandered on to the Direct in places

with John Davies
Hidden 20/Jun/76 2nd
Hidden ??/1976 -
pneame ?/Oct/75 Lead
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
Nigel Bond 22/Jun/74 AltLd
with Pete Bott
Hidden ??/1971 Lead
mikej 10/Oct/70 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
Seymore Butt ??/1970 -
Gordon Stainforth 25/May/69 AltLd
with John Stainforth
eroica64 15/Jul/67 AltLd
with Percy aka Mike Spring
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 51
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set