Aberdeenshire > Creag a'choire Etchachan >
The Talisman (Summer)*** HS 4a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Red Scar Route (Winter)
The Talisman Direct Start Variation (Summer) >>
[Finishing up the 3rd pitch on the exposed arete, superb!, 4 kb]100m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Classic Rock, Ultimate Scottish Rock, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes.

Photo: Finishing up the 3rd pitch on the exposed arete, superb! © Steven Andrews
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 112 logbooks, and on 50 wishlists.

muppett - 2014

Great climb. Pitch one and two wet, dried off a wee bit for the last pitch.
iainpowell - AltLd - 26/Oct/13

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Sep/13

Uisdean hawthorn - 28/Sep/13

Some climb for hs...or i am just weak. Led p1 & 3.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Richard Lines

malone - AltLd - 20/Sep/13 with Ryan Gil, Andrew Appleby

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13

OwenF - AltLd - 08/Sep/13 with Calum

Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/13

great varied climb; I think all 3 pitches 4b
morsy - AltLd - 10/Aug/13 with peter berwick

The start is harder than the crux - unprotected large crack! good fun though. Great climb overall.
Pete23 - AltLd - 10/Aug/13 with Stephen Mors

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 23/Jul/13

Brilliant fun! Didn't think the crux was actually the crux either, certainly not 4c. Taking the slab at the start of pitch 3 direct up the crest is technically harder I reckon!
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Debbie Lee

Lead pitch 2
Laura Hamlet - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Tim Hamlet

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jul/13

Tim Hamlet - AltLd - 13/Jul/13 with Laura Hamlet

BallsOfSteel - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with JJ

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jul/13

punj - AltLd - 07/Jul/13 with Russell Shanks

Ali - AltLd O/S - Jul/13 with Lyons

SarahA - AltLd - Jul/13

Kicked steps up snow at base to reach start. Quite dirty and greasy in intermittent showers.
GuyC - Lead - 01/Jun/13

Rickrick - Jun/13

alasdair19 - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Led 1 & 3, crux 4c.
errrrm? - AltLd β - 13/Jun/12 with gaz h

Start probably harder than crux!
JohnHutch - AltLd - 28/May/12 with SC

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tomek S - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Daniel Szymanek

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

jess - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with martin

abbeywall - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with K

t_stork - AltLd - 12/Jun/11 with Helen Rennard

brianrunner - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 25/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

wence - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Rob

2nd and 3rd pitches really good
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 24/Jul/10 with Lawrence

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/10

8.15pm on a beautiful summer evening. Well worth the long walk in/out. Probably the best route I've been on at that grade. Superb and lives up to the hype!
jameshiggins - Solo O/S - 23/Jul/10

Pete Main - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Andrew S

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09

s kennedy - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09 with mark mosgrove

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 14/Aug/09

mikemartin - AltLd - 12/Aug/09

jack_eadie - AltLd - 12/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/09

Ain't in Kansas anymore. 3.5hr hike from Cairngorm via Snechta/Hell's Lum surely one of best Brit hikes: climb not bad either.Slab traverse easier than expected: just as well as gear poor. Loved 4b/c V-overhang-chim-thing. If not ducked the third/fourth pitch on the arete proper provides appallingly bold and delicate drama at this grade! A classic.
jimorothy - Lead - 06/Aug/09 with Rachel Crolla

Lead all pitches, Ace route no rain despite forecast!! Camped at loch Avon afterwards.
StuDoig - Lead - 25/Jul/09 with Juliette Robertson

ollythomas - AltLd - 04/Jul/09 with Ed Emith and Scuz

Hurt my shoulder coiling a rope just before I got on this so didn't lead any of it :( Brilliant route! Is it just me or is bloomin good value at HS?! I think FHS would suit it well. P1= bold slab traverse (4a/b), P2 = lots of gear but the crux is surely 4c if you're not into thrutchy chimney type moves (my shoulder was nae loving it) P3= superb exposure on the arete (Sam took it pretty direct), felt hard for the grade. I'd give HS 4c overall.
iceicebaby - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with Sam Wood

Led pitches 1 and 3. Bypassed (bad route finding on my part!!!) the initial 10m by misreading the description - some hairy moves in walking boots. Mike led pitch 2, good lead. Crux move nailed on second attempt. Awesome situation.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Mike

Great weather and a fun climb.
Mike_Watson_99 - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Fiona

windy100 - 2009

Had to employ a hastily cobbled backrope for crux as it turned out to be harder than anticipated!
Captain Solo - Solo - 28/Sep/08

Pretty wet, started raining and had to ab off the second pitch
Neilm18 - AltLd dnf - 31/Aug/08 with Iain Gray

A little damp and maybe not quite as clean/good as were expecting.
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Neil Adams

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Ally F

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 08/Jun/08 with Jenny Kerr

A great finish to a fantastic weekend. Loads of interest. A meaty crux with stacks of gear.
beckycoles - AltLd O/S - 25/May/08

Hidden - 2008

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Ian Meek

Chris wilson - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Paul, Donald

Mark did first pitch - big slab was dripping wet so a bit un-nerving but possible. Rain shower hit while approaching first belay. Did crux pitch very carefully as lichen covered rock slippery when damp. Crux handholds difficult to hold on to when wet! Plenty of good gear though. Mark did top pitch - rock drying off by then.
DavPk - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Mark Moynagh

Hidden - AltLd - 24/May/07

Nevis_Ben - 17/Sep/06 with Lee Wales

Sunny to start with but increasingly heavy drizzle then rain.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/06 with Steve Brock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/06

Great route quite easy in the grade.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2006

Great route. The crux is 4b, as stated in the SMC selective guide, and it is laced with gear options and old tat. The neckiest bit is probably getting off the ground on the big slab.
AndyP - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/05 with Graham

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Stuart Shaw

Graham Kennedy - 2nd - 2005 with Andrew Porter

Steve Lenartowicz - 2005 with John N

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 28/Aug/04 with Helen

Raggar - 2nd - 31/Jul/04 with Ian M

Had to climb through knee deep snow to get to the start...
dave o - Lead O/S - May/04 with Julia H

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/04

oor wullie - AltLd - 2004

Duncan I - AltLd - Aug/03 with Dibbo

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/03

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/01

An superb day out - a seven mile walk in (and walk out) through the Cairngorms, a 20m snow pitch to reach the base of the climb, and an excellent route.
jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 14/May/00 with SL

graeme gatherer - 2000

babymoac - Lead - 03/Aug/97 with Liz

puddingstone - 2nd - 03/Aug/97 with Andy

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Dave Hollingham

ill_bill - AltLd - Aug/96 with Peter Collins

Stuart S - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/96 with Graham Callander

jmr - AltLd - Jun/95 with Andy Hodges

Took p1 then alt
Yourlead - AltLd - 06/Jul/91 with Stuart Johnston

stuart100 - AltLd O/S - Jun/88 with Pete Goodwin

mark-abz - Lead - 26/Jul/86 with Bill P

Brilliant end to a brilliant week!
rogerskews - 07/Jun/85 with Nigel Bond

Nigel Bond - Lead - 30/May/85 with Roger Skews

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/83

Shaw Brown - 2nd - 1982 with cliff brown

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 06/Sep/81 with Andy Campbell

neil3965 - AltLd - Aug/79 with Bill McCrae

Great day out. Got caught in a white-out on the walk back. Fortunately it didn't last too long.
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 26/May/79 with Jim Worthington

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Total votes cast 67
hard VS0 of 24
VS0 of 24
easy VS1 of 24
hard HS7 of 24
HS12 of 24
easy HS2 of 24
hard S2 of 24
S0 of 24
easy S0 of 24
hard 4b1 of 21
4b1 of 21
easy 4b18 of 21
hard 4a1 of 21
4a0 of 21
easy 4a0 of 21
hard 3c0 of 21
3c0 of 21
easy 3c0 of 21
3 Stars19 of 22
2 Stars3 of 22
1 Star0 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 112 (1.8%)
Lead17 of 112 (15.2%)
Followed8 of 112 (7.1%)
Alt Leads64 of 112 (57.1%)
Unknown21 of 112 (18.8%)

'Climbed'68 of 112 (60.7%)
clean O/S40 of 112 (35.7%)
clean β1 of 112 (0.9%)
clean rpt1 of 112 (0.9%)
dnf2 of 112 (1.8%)