Climbed 5 pitches to the terrace and couldn't decipher where to go! Bailed off. A bit broken and wandering up around the terrace to be of 'classic' standard. The first 4 pitches provided good climbing though, although think we must have been first up after the Winter, as a lot of cleaning was required!Lamb - AltLd dnf - 11/Jul/14 with Iain Powell
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13
Zippy1999 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Joe Gibson
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 28/Jun/13
captain - 2013
Lower pitches looked dry though we could see wet streaks on the pink slabs, but decided to go for it anyway. First 4 pitches very nice VS climbing, and then we got to the Terrace, which was pretty wet. Traversed left looking for the 'obvious' crescent shaped groove. After about 30m we found a leaning V corner but it would take a bit of imagination to make it 'crescent shaped'. Set off up the cracks left of the groove to the pink slabs to find the upper section wet and greasy and without great gear. Continued up and left past the correct belay in the upper middle of the slabs (take note, but not the greatest belay), and then travesed 30m right along another wet terrace to get back on the route under the prominent nose. The Quartz Crack was notable for the lack of visible quartz, and was black, slimy and running with water and was pretty much unclimbable. Fortunately you can go round it on the left and then drop down into the upper part of the corner and complete the route as per the description. 11 pitches including the traverses. 9 hours - slow in the upper half due to the wet. Too much vegetation and too disjointed to be a classic, and worth mentioning that the protection is not always great - some long run outs required on wet rock, mud and handfulls of grass. Very alpine in feel made all the more interesting by an inadequate route description. No wonder so many people go off route.
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 08/Sep/12 with Guy Hustinx
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/12
So we started to Alt lead but I freaked out near the top of pitch two and down climbed back to Tim. Who then heroically lead pitches 2-5. Bailed out up some grade III winter route (spagnum moss and loose heather in summer) to finished in the dark.
Laura Hamlet - 2nd dnf - 02/Sep/12 with Tim Hamlet
Tim Hamlet - AltLd - 02/Sep/12 with Laura Hamlet
Amazing day and route!
LucyG - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Gareth
Climbed Black Mamba to the terrace, then the slabs above had some damp streaks still, so we climbed the crescent groove of Cyclops instead.
Chris L Hill - AltLd - 27/Mar/12 with Simon Pearce
Hidden - 2012
donas - AltLd - 28/Jul/11
Thought of Pink Elephant but the top groove looked to wet.
hwackerhage - 24/Jul/11 with Arno Alpi
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11
Some really good climbing and almost all the rock was dry
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Mark Mosgrove, Campbell Forbes
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11
Hidden - 2011
Well.... walked in to find most of the crag wet, went for black mamba and after myself climbing the 1st pitch and Pat the 2nd we though better of it. Lesson 1 - Bike in, or stay a few days Lesson 2 - Dont climb wet slabs ;) Shame, Next time!!!
geoff.comley - AltLd dnf - 08/Aug/10 with Pat Ingram
Somewhat dissapointed by this route, wouldn't call it the 'classic' of the slabs although it was a bit wet. took a direct line, E1?, which missed out the soaking slabs on pitches 6 and 7. First 4 pitches and pitch 8 were fun though!
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Neil Mackenzie
pitches 6&7 wet so had to go direct up slimey grove and then over crazy set of small overlaps. certainly not VS but took us gratefully upto the belay below the quartz corner. proper mountain adventure!
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Warren
tallthinmonkey - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/10 with Rob Leuhman, Josh Plant
Lead pitches 2 and 4 to terrace, retreated back to terrace after pitch 6 as couldn't find the route and exited up grassy ground to the right.
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/10 with Stuart
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/09
lead first and 3rd pitches, then we escaped up grassy v diff
Hertha - AltLd - 19/Sep/09 with Manfran
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09
Hidden - Sep/09
Led first 4 pitches of route and the 5th grassy scramble pitch, At that point were running too late to complete route and the top looked very wet. Exited via loose broken ground to the right.
MDowson - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with oli warlow
Good (if a little wet) climbing on first 4/5 pitches. Predicted slow progress on the top wet looking pitches, meant opting for a faster looking ascent up grassy ledges to the right.
oliwarlow - AltLd - 20/Jun/09 with Matt
Very wet on the upper pitches, retreated via abseil
Mike H - AltLd dnf - 29/May/09 with Jamie Smith
windy100 - 2009
twright180 - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/08
Abbed off after 4th pitch - bloody freezing, and Al set of a huge rockfall above second pitch.. not as clean a line as Mousetrap.
Lawrie Brand - AltLd dnf - 23/May/08 with Al Goodridge
A real classic although route finding is difficult on first pitch above the grassy terrace. we went too high before traversing right and ended up on harder ground
Chris wilson - 2nd - 08/Sep/07 with Paul
Climbed pitches 1-4 ok. Went off route to right on 5th pitch. 6th pitch got us back on route. Began 7th pitch tr left beneath Cyclops but dripping slab and voracious midges forced retreat. Descended to left along grassy ledges and then 2 abs to bottom.
DavPk - AltLd dnf - 02/Sep/06 with Romain Rebut
dunx55 - 2006
Went too far left above terrace (bottom of Cyclops) and ended up on Pink Elephant. A common mistake apparently.
Jamie B - AltLd - Jul/05 with Simon Franks
Finished route at the large terrace due to the top being soaked. Good route, last pitch to the terrace was running with water.
Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Andy Munro
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/01
BRUCESTRAC - 2001 with GRANT CAMBELL
graeme gatherer - 2000
Lone Rider - 2000
Stuart S - AltLd O/S - Jun/99 with Diane Giulianotti
TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 1998 with Bruce A Strachan
brianrunner - 1990
amcleish - 1986