Northumberland > Back Bowden Doors >
 
The Arches*** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Sigurd
 
Low and Hard >>
[Head jam and shake out., 3 kb]A fine climb and a bit more amenable. Pull onto the hanging wall and follow it right as it gets ever narrower. Sustained and awkward, especially for the tall, although good gear is available. Continue to a grand finish on the flutings. © ROCKFAX
Hard to start, awkward to continue, superb to finish, good gear and hands off rests.

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket.

Photo: Head jam and shake out. © andymoin
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 158 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 13/Jul/14 with Ted Lister

slacky - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Chris Saunders

robertmichaeladams - 2nd - 14/Jun/14 with Dave Bulley, Bex

Fantastic route. Drenched in sweat at the top.
johannes - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14

Nille - 2nd - 01/Jun/14 with johannes

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/May/14

rested on gear
James90 - Lead dog - 18/May/14


watson.b - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Russ

Adamski1986 - 2nd - 12/Apr/14 with Stuart Bennett

stub1990 - Lead β - 12/Apr/14 with Adam Gregg

A fine route easier for short. Well protected.
climberchristy - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/14 with Ben Cole

samwillo - Lead - 12/Mar/14 with Malin Kvist

malinkvist - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/14 with Sam

Macleod - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Ian Rickerby, anthony

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/14

Hidden - 2nd β - 30/Nov/13

Tough start, easy to get wedged!
salix - 2nd - 22/Sep/13 with Jules, Frazer

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/13

Antd - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Dominic Jeff

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jul/13

oliverk - 2nd - 30/Jun/13 with Tim E, Dan

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/13

Tobes - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with mejulie

Dervey - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

E1 without a doubt as v sustained (particularly for the tall) Great gear throughout though
Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Phil Marsh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/13

John 'B' Hutchinson - 2nd β - 05/May/13 with Stewart Rattray

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/13

Adamski1986 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Richard Gage

Ginger McGrath - Solo rpt - 11/Nov/12

Glenn Sutcliffe - Lead - 07/Nov/12 with Charl

robertmichaeladams - 2nd - 13/Oct/12 with Andy H

georgedunton - Lead RP - 06/Oct/12 with greg strong

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Meg

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/12

Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Liam Ingram

Stiff start.
Liam Ingram - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Robert Taylor

redshapedfriday - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12 with tom anderson

Hidden - Lead β - 04/Jun/12

tlmarjot - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Ben Lea

tomB - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Juliette

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/12

andyinglis - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with mal_meech

yarbles - Lead - May/12 with Jo

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Jan/12

ed.burton - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/12 with Matt Murphy

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 2012

Tricky move before the jug-tastic finish, pumpy!
petegunn - Lead - 09/Dec/11 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Dec/11

Stiff warm up.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Patch

Fultonius - 2nd - 20/Nov/11 with Ross Barnes

Ross Barnes - Lead - 20/Nov/11 with Ally

roberto18 - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with ewan russell

Ewan Russell - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11 with bert, Dave Warburton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

Took over after Al retreated. Grim! Welsh E3!
whispering nic - Lead β - 18/Oct/11 with Al Reid

cat22 - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with Mike

robertmichaeladams - 2nd - 15/Oct/11 with Tom

tiring! haven't sweated so much while climbing for ages
tomdude - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with rob

pumpy
klipkabouter - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/11 with Tim Austin

Timo Austino - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Chris with webbed feet

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/11

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 21/Aug/11 with Lawrence

wence - 2nd - 21/Aug/11 with Rob

Hidden - Lead - Aug/11

first E1
UrbanSteve - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11

Good route, good gear
smollett - Lead - 13/Jul/11 with paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/11

pudding - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/11 with matt murphy

wookie667 - 2nd - 15/Jun/11

Tough!!!!! Hung on nut under overhang - tired. No way I could lead this! Plus v. hard start
Klingon - 2nd - 13/May/11 with Steve Kirkup

got pumped and had to rest once
Ginger McGrath - Lead dog - 01/Apr/11 with emily roo

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/11

James Rolf - 2nd dnf - 2011

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with sam

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with stg

scott gibson - Solo - 01/Sep/10 with graeme read

nic42 - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/10 with dru

ferdia - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Andy

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/10 with Ruth Colston

nails
Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/10 with Anna

gforce - Lead - 25/Jul/10 with James

James Prowse - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Graham

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/10

MDowson - 2nd - 08/May/10 with Karl wood

awesome! - bit of a sandbag at HVS due to the awkwardness of the upper moves- fine postition tho! Finally found a route which is easier for the short! :)
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 08/May/10 with Matt Dowson

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Janey Kennedy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10

Steve Crowe - Lead - 2010

Good climbing and situations, bit scrunched up. Borderline E1? - I'd say so.
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/09

pete87abs - Lead β - 23/Oct/09 with Dave Brigham

Brilliant. Done to warm up and it certainly did just that!
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Will Hunt

Bloody awkward
Will Hunt - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Dave Warburton

akhughes - Solo O/S - 22/Sep/09 with Mgeek

jored - Lead - 16/Aug/09 with paul

Needed help to start, struggled to near the end of the sloping traverse, couldn't get gear out, opted to pendulum off
Colin Matheson - 2nd dnf - 08/Jul/09 with KIn

Yes, Colin. It's E1 on UKC's database and only HVS in Northumberland guidebook!
Skinny Kin - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/09 with Colin Matheson

Hidden - Lead β - 24/May/09

Craig McMahon - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Adam Cassidy

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/09

Boy - Mar/09 with Fiona Fullwood

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/09 with Calum

Needed some help with the bouldery start!
CalumC - 2nd β - 24/Jan/09 with Andy Moles

j0shwyatt000 - 2nd dog - 2009

Another mental route, awkward, Sean got a head jam lol.
andymoin - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/08 with Sean

Managed a hands free head jam shake out, superb route.
SeanB - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/08 with Andy

pimpy - Lead - 04/Jul/08 with ian burton

Hidden - 29/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 07/Apr/07

dave o - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Julia H

chris2451 - Lead dog - 05/Apr/07 with David Brigham

dj_brigham05 - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/07 with Chris Thain

Rob Kennard - 2007

A proper HVS!
GPN - 2nd - Nov/06 with Paul James

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/06 with Chris Thain

chris2451 - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/06 with David Brigham

barney_edin - Lead - Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/06

jim robertson - 2006

shark - Solo rpt - 12/Nov/05

John Pickles - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/05 with Zac Poulton

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/05

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Nov/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/03

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Fiend

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2001

gypsy3006 - 2000

Beardyman - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Marti999 - Lead O/S - Aug/99 with lorna

Hidden - Lead - Jun/99

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/99

Roget - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/98 with jim

craig h - Lead O/S - May/98 with Mike c

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 1998

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1997 with Sean Smith

stuart100 - 2nd O/S - Jul/95 with Pete Goodwin

tlr - 2nd - 14/Apr/95 with Andy B

Hidden - 2nd - 1995

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Solo - 24/Apr/94

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/94 with Ciaron (SCUM)

JiveWeasel - 2nd - 1994 with Phoar Phil

akamini - Lead O/S - Aug/93

Tony Little - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/92 with DK and SG

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/92

nai - 2nd - 27/Aug/91 with Cal

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/91 with Pom

NickJH - Lead O/S - Aug/91 with NBarrowclough

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 28/Aug/89

shark - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/87

steve taylor - 2nd - Oct/86 with stumpy

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/83

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 03/Nov/79 with Rab Anderson, Rob Milne, Chris Callow

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Keith Swainson, jmzn, JonmapDL, Matt Poole, Madden, Callum T, Hidden, Hidden, sarah hawker, Hidden, a13x, Hidden, odox, Hidden, jdgaventa, beegsyboy

Voting
Total votes cast 98
hard E20 of 35
E20 of 35
easy E20 of 35
hard E11 of 35
E111 of 35
easy E16 of 35
hard HVS14 of 35
HVS3 of 35
easy HVS0 of 35
hard 5c0 of 35
5c0 of 35
easy 5c1 of 35
hard 5b4 of 35
5b20 of 35
easy 5b5 of 35
hard 5a4 of 35
5a1 of 35
easy 5a0 of 35
3 Stars20 of 28
2 Stars6 of 28
1 Star2 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed9 of 158 (5.7%)
Lead88 of 158 (55.7%)
Followed55 of 158 (34.8%)
Unknown6 of 158 (3.8%)

'Climbed'56 of 158 (35.4%)
clean O/S77 of 158 (48.7%)
clean β8 of 158 (5.1%)
clean rpt6 of 158 (3.8%)
clean RP1 of 158 (0.6%)
dogged6 of 158 (3.8%)
dnf4 of 158 (2.5%)