Rockfax Description
One of the Avon Gorge's most famous pitches that usually pulls in a crowd of viewers on the suspension bridge. Start on a good ledge 5m right of the arete below a pocketed crystal crack and just right of a vegetated groove.
Move up the crack and then head left to a small groove that leads to a ledge system at 10m. Head left to the arete and make some tricky moves to a wide, pocketed runnel. Take the runnel to a horizontal break and move right into an easier finishing corner. Belay and abseil post on the left. © Rockfax

M W Harvey 1956

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
steve_gibbs 24/May Lead rpt
with Chris Harbour, Anouk Spelt
steve_gibbs 07/May Lead rpt
with Dan Akam, John Harris
Angrypenguin 06/May Lead O/S
with Cat
catty_9 06/May 2nd
Hidden 06/May 2nd O/S
Andrew1 06/May Lead
with Hulda
Alex_RhodesUK 03/May Lead rpt
with Sam de Belner, Adam Buckley
PeteMc 24/Apr 2nd
tom0french 24/Apr Lead O/S
danieleaston 19/Apr Lead rpt
with Steve
Steve Bartle 19/Apr 2nd rpt

Still find the moves out of the upper part of the runnel quite hard..not much for the feet, or I'm doing the wrong thing with them!

Alex_RhodesUK 17/Apr 2nd O/S
with Dan Akam
Dakam12 17/Apr Lead
Norman_P_W 13/Apr 2nd
with Bob M
Bob M 13/Apr Lead

First HVS lead this year. Low in the grade with the hard moves right by comforting thread runners.

VPJB 05/Apr Lead
andy dunn 02/Apr Lead rpt
with J
katherinesydney 31/Mar 2nd rpt
with neil morbey
bpmclimb 31/Mar 2nd rpt
with Sarah Jane
Kemics 26/Mar 2nd rpt

With man flu. Does feel easier if you make big moves

with Corin
wilkinscl 25/Mar Lead rpt

Much easier than 2nding the first time I climbed it.

with Caleb
Cheese Monkey 17/Mar 2nd rpt
with Caleb S
Kemics 17/Mar Lead dog

Whoops! Was being very casual and had a proper foot slip and fall. Good thing the wire held. Also serious hot aches at the belay. Glorious after the sun came out though

Hidden 13/Mar Lead
dkilner 03/Mar Lead O/S
with Kiran
KiranV 03/Mar 2nd O/S
with David Kilner
hutchay 29/Feb 2nd O/S
with Dave Clover
Melonfly ??/2016 Lead dog

Went for the lead, got a bit trapped in groove. So rested on the sling probably didn't need to good stances the whole way!

with James
SJPowderham1 04/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Night time accent below the lit up bridge. Fantastic

WillAndrew 31/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Cara, Matt
Wendy Watthews 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Spent ages on this route but a great climb, got to see 2 base jumpers off of the bridge 😊

with joe c
JoeCoxson 31/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Only climb of the day, sandwiched inbetween hangover and the rugby final. Beautiful weather for an excellent route.

Cheese Monkey 28/Oct/15 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 28/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with George Cave
67hours 28/Oct/15 Lead O/S
mark schramm 25/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with Jamie
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Annabel Tall 09/Oct/15 2nd
cheeky 07/Oct/15 Lead O/S
mark4344 07/Oct/15 2nd

Very enjoyable,good gear. Felt soft for grade

with Matt Payne
FlavioL1989 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Rob Edwards
Benjaminblanc 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Had so much fun on suspense that I thought it would be rude not too. Another great line.

minty1984 27/Sep/15 Lead G/U

Clean lead. 2nded this route a while back and loved it....... Loved it even more on the lead. What a route

ad111 24/Sep/15 Lead O/S
lukegorman 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Olly maskery
omaskrey 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/15 2nd dnf
ChrisWills 06/Sep/15 2nd
with Jon Bamber
Annabel Tall 02/Sep/15 2nd
kirsten 29/Aug/15 Lead

I think this is my first true onsight hvs

GridNorth 29/Aug/15 2nd

Make that a dozen + 1. For her first HVS Kirsten made an excellent job of leading this.

with Kirsten Donovon
Richardlake 22/Aug/15 2nd β
petegunn 22/Aug/15 2nd
with Davina
will_lake 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 18/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Ali
ali.scott 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Will A
Annabel Tall 18/Aug/15 2nd
WillAndrew 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Matt
steve_gibbs 30/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Pauline Picchio
cwildblood 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Ian Stirrups 21/Jul/15 Lead
with Sue
steve phillips 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

good climbing lots of threads

GridNorth 18/Jul/15 2nd

Done this a dozen times before but still forgot about all the excellent threads.

with Steve Philips
danieleaston 09/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Jon
Gustav 09/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Dan
Hidden 07/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 07/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Fred_Richard 07/Jul/15 -
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead β
steve_gibbs 04/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Simon Peacock
SiyP 04/Jul/15 2nd
KeirVonMarlon 27/Jun/15 Lead

First HVS lead at the Gorge. Quality route felt good to push the grade. Onsite but rested in the chimney due incorrect footwork. Nice to climb under such an iconic bridge and the Mathew sailed past too.Pat on the back!**

minty1984 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Really good route with 2 great cruxes. Will be back to lead this..

Bob Peters 19/Jun/15 Lead

Entered the groove all wrong and whipped onto the thread. Irritatingly then did it properly and found it easy. Another grudge match.

George.Rowland 18/Jun/15 2nd O/S

The first and last bits were a romp with a well protected but more tricky crux in between.

Steve Bartle 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Only my second Avon gorge HVS lead. Great route. I found the move into the chimney a little tricky to figure out. Like others said, take plenty of (60cm) skinny slings for the plentiful threads

Rob Morgan 16/Jun/15 2nd
mikedevcole 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
toasted 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Tim Larrad
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead
brew_guru 04/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Gonna take a retro flash for this!

with Em Dawes
Hidden ?/Jun/15 2nd
chrisallan 31/May/15 2nd O/S
Phil Murray 27/May/15 Lead rpt
with John Alcock
mrdaniel 20/May/15 2nd O/S
Tim_C7 13/May/15 Lead O/S
Hugobristol 09/May/15 2nd
with Dave
Dino Dave 09/May/15 Lead O/S
Jaysquared69 09/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Jonathon Percival, David Tait
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead O/S
emdawes 04/May/15 Lead
Georgina Brooke ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt
jon_ridley 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 16/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Max Coney
Legs 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Very atmospheric. First route under the suspension bridge in glorious weather. Really enjoyable well protected HVS. Probably on the softish side compared to its neighbour. Great introduction to this section of Avon Gorge.

with Steve
alastairbegley 14/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Apr/15 Lead
twem 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
LJKing 11/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Testing out sprained ankle!

with Paul Clarkson
felixizzy 10/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with George
georgeevans88 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Felix
Hidden 09/Apr/15 Lead β
youwillfindjimbo 12/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Larey 24/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Rogers
widdlestickmcpoos 22/Feb/15 Lead O/S

So cold

widdlestickmcpoos 21/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Did it as one pitch, but via the belay on the left as I couldn't find the route to the runnel.

PEccleston 04/Feb/15 2nd
Eagertom ?/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Not as good as Suspense, still worthwhile

riff156 11/Jan/15 Lead rpt
with Jo Smith
climbEdclimb 05/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
with Ian Stevens
ianstevens 05/Jan/15 AltLd

Great route, good value HVS in an excellent position. Did in the traditional style with a belay. Ed led to the first ledge, I went up to the bolt from there. First HVS lead in a while! Great start to 2015.

Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
danmullett ??/2015 -
suds_01 ??/2015 -
Graham Westbrook 31/Dec/14 Lead O/S
gingernick 29/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Dean Jones
Andrew Sloan 19/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Upper groove poorly protected.

with Tim
Phil Murray 19/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Steve Wright
valuks1 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Great lead, lovely interesting approach too and so glad to get up this one, another great tick!

with Phil knight
badgerjockey 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Pete
maddy92 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Webster 03/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd
sara n 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

All there...take lots of threads and a nut key on lead to poke the enormous spiders in the holds out of the way.

with Neville Contractor
derico 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ali Walker, Tim
tobydunford 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
AndrewCollins ?/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Aid climb

with Finan
Aaron Lines 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with nick
nickwhimster 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
felixizzy 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Bernard
Hidden 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rob84 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great route but I was absolutely melting on it despite climbing in the evening - the rock seems to soak up the sun and radiate the heat late into the day.

with Si White
riff156 24/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Hannahc
scorpia97 21/Jul/14 Lead rpt
martinlevya82 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Adam Hill 17/Jul/14 -
Kemics 08/Jul/14 Lead rpt

felt really solid climbing this. Looads of threads.

with Mel
Melonfly 08/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Caleb
Dave Thompson 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
APAPAP ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with John Harris
Rebs 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/14 Lead
AngelaC 03/Jun/14 2nd
with Jeremy
Hidden 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Avon Man ?/Jun/14 Solo rpt
pheotleyr 31/May/14 2nd rpt
with Felix
felixizzy 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Peter
Ant Mace 30/May/14 2nd O/S

Lovely

with Neil S
mossrug 30/May/14 Lead O/S

Lovely route

with Ant
Hidden 19/May/14 2nd rpt
LucasHarazin 19/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead rpt
emilyjhunt 17/May/14 2nd

Great fun to second, and really well led by Thom. However, it was sometimes hard to concentrate due to catching glimpses of ostentatious, stripey leggings.

Annabel Tall 17/May/14 2nd
Hidden 15/May/14 Lead
George Frisby 09/May/14 Lead rpt

A large thread at the top chimney has a nest of Jackdaw chicks in it, right at the back of the large pocket. Maybe don't use that one to help not disturb them, plenty of other gear around it.

steve_gibbs 09/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/May/14 Lead dog
laurashaw 06/May/14 2nd
laurence_falconer 06/May/14 Lead
Dave Mahon 04/May/14 Lead O/S

A touch harder than Suspense. Another lovely route.

with Jeff Mashburn
Jeff Mashburn 04/May/14 2nd β
with Dave Mahon
Egons Issy 15/Apr/14 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Annabel Tall 12/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 08/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 08/Apr/14 Lead
with Ian Law
riddle 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/14 2nd
Richardlake 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Felt pretty straight forward for HVS

Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
dmetcalfe 15/Mar/14 Lead
with Mike P
shoulders 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with dai
will_lake 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Andrew Sloan 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Quite tough. Martin didn't second.

Mackinclimb 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
mike lawrence? 06/Mar/14 Lead
with Metal
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Egons Issy ??/2014 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Egons Issy ??/2014 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
jameslam 19/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Patrick
Cheese Monkey 10/Dec/13 2nd rpt

Atmospheric at night!

with Neil
James S 04/Dec/13 Lead rpt

henry's first trad experience!

with henry
hankyc 04/Dec/13 2nd O/S

followed the james, super cool route

Samuel Wainwright 27/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Steve Griggs
pheotleyr 04/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with Mike
Mayaculpa 04/Nov/13 2nd
with Peter
clams ?/Nov/13 Lead
CatMc ?/Nov/13 2nd
with clams
mes32 29/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Simon Allcock, Wilki
Simon Allcock 29/Oct/13 Lead
with Mary, Wilki
kenneM 23/Oct/13 Lead
with Pete
pheotleyr 23/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Jana
halfwaythere 23/Oct/13 2nd
with mike
squicky 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Think I climbed this, was looking for Chateau Fitzwarren. The line definitely doesn't go around the arte and through the overhang. Started raining towards the top.

with John
tomosb 03/Oct/13 -
with Darren Thompson
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd
matt_claydon 21/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Sep/13 Lead
alastairbegley 02/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Poco Loco 02/Sep/13 2nd
zcsharp 27/Aug/13 2nd
with Chris Stafford, George Frisby
stafford101 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Been saving this for a while now - great line, excellent gear, and the holds are all there.

tommy.henriksson78 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Henry Giddens
steve_gibbs 02/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 28/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Peter
pheotleyr 28/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Harder than I remembered it to be, felt like solid HVS today.

with Ben
GAtkins 16/Jul/13 Lead
with David Trelawney-Ross
Eike 11/Jul/13 2nd
with Tim Rogers, Rob Scheichl
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Rad
minexplorer 04/Jul/13 2nd

harder than looked.found the moves just before the runnel a bit testing

with cheese monkey
Phil Murray 03/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Liz
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
NancyJones 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Shaun
danieleaston 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Saz
Phil Murray 24/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Tanya
saz_b 24/Jun/13 2nd β
Slick 19/Jun/13 Lead

More vegetated than I remember!

alastairbegley 15/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Nick Eaton
Hidden 30/May/13 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 04/May/13 -
Hidden 03/May/13 2nd
Robin Woodward ?/May/13 Lead
Alex the Alex ?/May/13 2nd
localboy 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Simon F
simonf 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Mike
andy dunn 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with J
Hidden 23/Apr/13 2nd
Alex Winter 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Samwise
SGD 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S

good route, bit awkward in the chimney

Andy Clarke 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Good climbing in a fine position. Found it more awkward than I expected, both getting up to the chimney, then moving up it. Think HVS is fair. But first trad route of year: some shiny new gear, but some rusty skills!

with SGD
gripped01 20/Apr/13 2nd
with Dave Tait
evhall 13/Apr/13 Lead rpt

a lovely route - always good - solid HVS

with Dave F
HarryB 10/Mar/13 Lead rpt
laurence_falconer 10/Mar/13 2nd
Hidden 10/Mar/13 Lead
dragomeda 05/Mar/13 2nd dnf

Tempered...badly

with BAZ
pheotleyr 05/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Really easy for HVS. Very nice climb.

with Pete
Kevster 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Gavdee1 02/Mar/13 2nd
Chris Sansum 23/Feb/13 Lead rpt

Alex's first trad route!

with Alex Bryant
Alex Bryant 23/Feb/13 2nd β
dragomeda 18/Feb/13 TR O/S
with BAZ
mkonca 15/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with steve gibbs
Murilo Lessa 06/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Soft start, had a bit of trouble to pass the off width. Though about hanging on the gear but kept my shit together and finished nicely :-) Good protection.

with Alex Desborough
Marder20 04/Jan/13 2nd
steve_gibbs ??/2013 Lead O/S
richiebongo ??/2013 Lead O/S

Sometime in the naughties.

jcw ??/2013 -
Pete Rigby ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Chasqui Patter
tskelhon ??/2013 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ??/2013 2nd
Ragingpossum 09/Dec/12 Lead rpt

First time on lead, not overly pumpy but more technical.

with laurence falconer
laurence_falconer 09/Dec/12 2nd
alastairbegley 08/Dec/12 2nd rpt
jon_ridley 14/Nov/12 Lead rpt

To retrieve gear from 'baby duck'

becoming-stranger 14/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 11/Nov/12 Lead rpt

Harder than I remember, maybe because I faffed around for ages in the groove before going left

with Emily
abtibbs 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Jack Verber
steve-grigg 16/Oct/12 Lead O/S

1st route on this wall and it was a lovely post work climb in the best conditions you can expect this time of year

evhall 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with goat
LJKing 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Bud Chawla
budchawla 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
crimpylewis 29/Sep/12 2nd rpt

hvs 5a

Tangerine_Kingdom 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Justin
Slick 16/Sep/12 2nd
James S 12/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with jamie
zcsharp 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with James S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead rpt
ericinbristol 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Johnny S
markfromstoke 09/Aug/12 Lead
with Norman
Norman_P_W 09/Aug/12 2nd
Phil Murray 28/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Broke out left to the tree at top of Robert's Route for a change.

s.c.white 26/Jul/12 -
with Jonathan Fuller
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
James S 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

enjoyed this a lot, really cool climbing in the chimney especially.

with dan
Dan0Me 15/Jul/12 2nd
with James S
Kyle87 06/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Stanners 06/Jul/12 2nd rpt

6th repeat :)

alastairbegley 05/Jul/12 Lead dog

Fell (slipped) while resting, foot slipped off damp foothold. Very frustrating, felt easy for HVS

Katherine Ross 20/Jun/12 Lead β

Normally I'm a massive wuss when I push my grade on lead but this was fine :) Some parts are a bit run out but the hard moves are adequately protected. I don't agree with Rockfax's 'sustained' symbol as it wasn't pumpy and there aren't lots of hard moves.

Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
riff156 31/May/12 2nd O/S
with Bob Hotchkis
Billg 26/May/12 2nd
with Susanne Richards
evilweed 25/May/12 Lead O/S
with Sara Currie
pffft 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with Monkey
mullermn 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Think I followed the true line better than last time. Nice route, couple of steep moves in the middle.

Kylie 13/May/12 2nd dog

Nice, some hard moves up the chimney part but good moves on the arete. Had to sit on the rope twice, first to retrieve a cam then to rest on the hard bit.

Hidden 21/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt
mallardhealhook 13/Apr/12 2nd β
bpmclimb 29/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Lovely warm sunshine; unfortunately only had time for this one quick route.

with Clare
Kemics 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 24/Mar/12 2nd rpt
R_W_M 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

first HVS lead... spent quite a long time faffing in the chimney, but really enjoyed it

with Eleri
Hidden 18/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Stanners 10/Mar/12 2nd rpt

really got to stop climbing this one.

with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
JamesRich 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Found the crux a bit awkward as your cramped up in the groove. It's a really nice route though.

Quarryboy 10/Mar/12 2nd rpt

Done this several times now and always found it harder when seconding as apposed to leaning.

Chris Sansum 12/Feb/12 2nd rpt
with Geo
misterb 23/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with tom
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
jon_ridley 22/Dec/11 Lead O/S
sweenyt 10/Dec/11 Lead
with Tom M
Becky H 07/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Jonny Raines 07/Dec/11 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Clay C 18/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with Will A
georgeevans88 15/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Alex P
aipattison 15/Nov/11 Lead rpt

In the dark.

with James Nelson, George Evans
adam 24 13/Nov/11 2nd O/S
HarryB 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Al
thomb 29/Oct/11 2nd
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Tom B
Ragingpossum 27/Oct/11 2nd dog

Started raining for the crux in the groove, and got very pumped trying to stay on, when it got slippy, but dryed up nicely once the rain stopped.

cbeard 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Excellent

with Tom
thomasadixon 01/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Becca
Poco Loco 29/Sep/11 Lead rpt

After work climb. Sunshine, 27 degrees and we were the only ones on the wall!

with Robert
Bobling 29/Sep/11 2nd

Scary and slippy! Great end to the post-work climbing season though.

with James P
squicky 11/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Stanners 11/Sep/11 Lead rpt

As good as ever.

with Iggy
Monk 04/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Nick Russell 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
bonelessivar 17/Aug/11 Lead
with Aeddon
Chris Sansum 14/Aug/11 2nd rpt

Climbed with the mother of all hangovers. At least E5 in that state.

Ffej 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Chris Sansum
Ruth ND 02/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ian C, Mai Wong
Dave Mahon ?/Aug/11 Lead

lovely route, good gear

with Brian Mead
ashley_sandeman 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Very easy for an HVS. Starts with a vdiff grade scramble up to a decent ledge. Plenty of good holds along the way, though take a good number of cams for the odd little pockets. Nut placements are less frequent. The crux comes about half way up the runnel but apart from being slightly exposed there's a good left hand pull to get through it. There are also a large number of threads, remembering this advice about dynamic strength of dyneema slings when you anchor at the top around the excellent abseil point: http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/ The peg at the top has a square top for the belay and ab back down. Me and TNM did the climb on a single 60m rope and the ab back down left us with a metre of rope to spare.

with Richard Miles
Stanley 19/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Stanners 19/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Martin Stanfield
tom.o.prince 11/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Lev 02/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead rpt
kyle 02/Jul/11 -
Kate Edhouse 27/Jun/11 2nd

Loverly.

stvredmond 19/Jun/11 Lead

pretty steep

just one more 17/Jun/11 Lead
with Sue B
bonelessivar 07/Jun/11 2nd
with Andy
mandy ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with rick
gilbert 21/May/11 2nd

sustained but realy positive climbing

with Jonathan Percival
fragglerock 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Duncan Johnstone
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead rpt
Slick 16/May/11 Lead
Hidden 08/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead rpt
cem 02/May/11 2nd rpt
gripped01 ?/May/11 Lead
with Gilbert
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Dave Ing 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Kev, Pete
halfwaythere 16/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
evhall 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt

today it seemed harder than last time...

with Leandro
Greg Pittam 08/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Jess Brooks
Hidden 07/Apr/11 2nd
mrrjmcneil ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Jason Ivor
catemuir 24/Mar/11 Lead

First HVS lead! Got scared in places but bullied myself into manning up by remembering I climbed it fine yesterday! Such a lovely climb.

Hidden 24/Mar/11 2nd rpt
catemuir 23/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd rpt
just one more 20/Mar/11 Lead
with tony l, Svenn G
AlexRenshaw 13/Mar/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Stanners 12/Mar/11 Lead rpt

as good as when I 2nd it

Quarryboy 12/Mar/11 2nd rpt

2nded with woolly socks and 3 layers on.

Clay C 06/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Harry K
Clay C 16/Feb/11 2nd rpt
with Jay
Jay C 16/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Clay C
bpmclimb 08/Feb/11 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Hidden 08/Feb/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Jan/11 2nd β
bpmclimb 18/Jan/11 Lead rpt
with Helen S
bpmclimb 09/Jan/11 Lead rpt

Numb fingers on this. Not surprised though, as the pavement was icy walking along the Portway.

with Clare
31770 ??/2011 -
fletch73 ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -

excellent gogarthian chimney, except with nice threads!

Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Jonnie Watkins ??/2011 -
mark schramm 11/Dec/10 2nd
with tom m
tommoulds 11/Dec/10 Lead β

First HVS lead. Boom

with Schramm
Hidden 06/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Dizz 06/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with David B
mullermn 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Nice climb, lots of gear

with Monkey
Chris Sansum 24/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Richard Lade
Quarryboy 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Good route not too hard for HVS got told off at the top for using the suspension bridge as a belay lol.

Stanners 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S

great route, Maybe a little easy for HVS. Classic climb!

brew_guru 13/Oct/10 Lead O/S

nice climbing on some great rock **

with alex harper
aipattison 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
mark schramm 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with tom m
Didymus 07/Oct/10 2nd rpt

Lovely climbing

with Nick
crossdressingrodney 28/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tomar
Tomar 28/Sep/10 2nd O/S

First time on suspension bridge, nice pockets! Just getting psyched to lead Baby Ducks next but started getting dark and had to leave.

with Oli
TDembrey 16/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Clay
Clay C 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S

First HVS, after getting rained off it a few days earlier.

with Todd
Rob Exile Ward 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Great climb, two distinct cruxes (a move up a slab to reach the chimney, then a move up the chimney itself), but with bomber gear wherever you want it. Slightly morbid - the police were retrieving a body from the river while we climbed.

with Sam Ward
katherinesydney 11/Sep/10 2nd O/S

lovely!

with gary burgess
Hidden 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 09/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Paz
Hidden 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S
TDembrey 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jana
royal 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

My first HVS. Great climbing with Misha. Very atmospheric crag and not as much noise as expected.

with Misha
Hidden 02/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
JKinsella 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Can't remember who convinced me to climb trad! Think I may have done another as well. Maybe suspense? Not sure.

timstyles 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Good protection with lots of threads.

with Huw Howells, Jon Bradley
Si dH 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Morris
Chris Sansum 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Nice route with good protection.

with Richard Lade
Alasdair88 12/Jun/10 Lead rpt
lizzie789 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Marti999 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 17/May/10 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 03/May/10 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd
mark schramm 15/Apr/10 Lead
with si
jimmatthews 14/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead
shyster boulder 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S

nice route

with alex harper
Will Homoky 08/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Tom Whitton
Simon Allcock ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Mark
Lil_Pete 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Good fun, but HVS, really?! Bit iffy abseiling on a 50m rope - you'll come well short if you go off the belay station and it's pretty tight going off the tree below!

matt_claydon 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
fishinwater 14/Mar/10 2nd
with Barry
Hidden 11/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Jacob k-d 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S

nice climb. low in it's grade though

James_86 06/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Jacob
Hidden 04/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Mar/10 2nd rpt
fishinwater ?/Mar/10 2nd
with Barry
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
colesy 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

With Wendy and Tomo. Tomo's first outdoor climb.

tommoulds ??/2010 2nd O/S
with Schramm
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
ruaidh 10/Oct/09 Lead β
with Josie
Hidden 05/Oct/09 Lead
scorpia97 20/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Paul
bpmclimb 04/Sep/09 Lead rpt
ruaidh 16/Aug/09 Lead β

More like a VS 5a. Certainly much easier than Suspense next door.

with Baz
MikeC59 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 13/Aug/09 Lead β

First Trad lead at Avon Gorge

with GF
Ceridwen 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Mosienko
andy dunn 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S
chubbyclimber 14/Jul/09 -
with Fred
evhall 21/Jun/09 Lead rpt

nice route - quite low in grade

with Fletch
ClareR 16/Jun/09 Lead β

Led! Have seconded in past.

with Kate
needlefluff ?/Jun/09 2nd
Danos 30/May/09 2nd rpt
with Andras
Hidden 28/May/09 Lead rpt
Quirina 28/May/09 2nd O/S
JamieAyres 25/May/09 2nd dog

had to rest at the first thread in the groove

Dan_Carroll 21/May/09 2nd O/S
with Eric Herring
EmmanuelF 10/May/09 Lead O/S

a fall at the very start

with arnaud
just one more 03/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/09 2nd β
Batt 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

1st limestone lead. What a great climb!

poey50 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great route but felt unusually nervy on it. The groundfall potential at about 12 metres (on fairly easy ground) had something to do with that but more likely the unusual sense of exposure on the Butress.

with Rowan15
Hidden 22/Mar/09 2nd
Jessie Rushbrooke 09/Mar/09 Lead β
with GF
Elmoz87 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Dr Caterpillar 25/Jan/09 Lead rpt
with Will
bpmclimb 08/Jan/09 Lead rpt
with Tim
Hidden 08/Jan/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Dr Caterpillar 23/Oct/08 Lead O/S

really nice route

with Howard
maria85 25/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Stef
sdi 25/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Maria
Protheroe 24/Sep/08 Lead rpt

My first HVS lead

with Dave Radley
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead
scorpia97 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Justin T 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Fantastic route - can't understand the comments about polish below - I can only assume some people don't get out much...

with Wifey
Andrew1 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel Smith
dzlhodgson 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with Alan Sage
Hidden 14/May/08 2nd
Bluekowari 13/May/08 2nd
with MT
Hidden 09/May/08 Lead O/S
Humpty Dangler 09/May/08 2nd O/S

Jordan offered me the lead, but after falling on both my last HVS lead attempts earlier in the week the confidence wasn't there. First and last sections are only V Diff, but the middle does have some awkward, steep moves. Good, sound rock. Nice location and exposure. Well worth repeating.

lukehodson 07/May/08 Lead O/S

threads!! mmmm

with Emily Reynolds
catemuir ?/May/08 2nd

At night

with Calum Smith
James Marshall 02/Apr/08 Lead O/S
schwenk ?/Apr/08 TR

First abseil from top with Ben West

Al Franks 14/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jeremy Cusack and Rob Loveridge
Alasdair88 14/Feb/08 Lead rpt
with Rob loveridge, Jeremy
Greg Pittam 12/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Sweet

with Ingrid
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead rpt
just one more 09/Feb/08 Lead
with Max B
catemuir ?/Feb/08 2nd
with Joe Barrington, Pete Swan
Spacetourist ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
thomasadixon 16/Nov/07 Lead rpt

Brilliant route.

Hidden 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
chris sm 10/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with Julie Osborn
Ybot Htulk ?/Nov/07 2nd
with Tom Dixon
Hidden 26/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/07 Lead O/S
just one more 14/Oct/07 Lead
with alex h, rich h, Max B
Hidden 08/Oct/07 Lead O/S
pelvoux 06/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Mario
dycotiles 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S

There are two parallel grooves in the upper part of the arete. I climbed the one on the further right. Seemed too easy for 5a HVS. Did I miss anything?

with Eric
georgeevans88 ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Pete
Al Franks 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Alasdair88 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Sam Howell
Circus 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dan
just one more 13/Jul/07 Lead
with rich h
Paz 29/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Mme Gri-Gri & Mr Shunt
Hidden 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S
just one more 01/Jun/07 Lead
with alex h, rich h
just one more 18/May/07 Lead
with rich h
mlmatt 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S

fantastic climb done at the end of a v hard day, though must remembe a second rope for the abseil afterwards lol

with chris jones
Hidden 13/Apr/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/Apr/07 -
chris sm 12/Apr/07 Lead β
jon bradley ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Brilliant route but starting to get slightly polished

with Matt Pearcey
thomasadixon 31/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with somerset swede basher
Somerset swede basher 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Dixon
KarlH 26/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Belaybev
Hidden 17/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Paz 02/Feb/07 2nd rpt
with OL
Hidden 02/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Luke Gilbert ??/2007 Lead
with Jim Brooke, Rich Smith
bullybones ??/2007 Lead O/S
Paz 09/Nov/06 2nd rpt
with AJM
Bristoldave ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Boxy 09/Jul/06 Lead rpt
TimPerkin 01/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Dave Gale
Feeling bold ?/Jul/06 2nd
with Baz - rock god
JasonG ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Barry Donovan
just one more 30/Jun/06 Lead
with john smith
Hidden 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Tom Last 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Clive
Hidden 11/Jun/06 2nd O/S
adamscottthomas 08/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/06 Lead rpt
Sarah Bough 07/Jun/06 2nd O/S
gonggashan 07/Jun/06 Lead
with Dan Perrott
tom.e 24/May/06 Lead rpt
with Matt Gordon
Paul Robertson 11/May/06 2nd rpt
with Ben Friedland
Tamlyn 11/May/06 Lead O/S

Pleasant, didn't find too hard. Good threads

with Dave V, Neil F
Lev 01/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/06 2nd O/S
tom.e 11/Apr/06 2nd rpt
with Charlie Everett
cornishben 05/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Gavin Edwards
Hidden 14/Jan/06 Lead
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Rob Brown
gimmer ??/2006 -
IceMonkey1982 ??/2006 -
just one more 15/Oct/05 Lead
with rich h, Max B
bpmclimb 09/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Clare
mwh 09/Jul/05 2nd O/S
Stefan Kruger 21/Jun/05 2nd rpt

Sarah's first HVS lead on lime stone. A fine effort.

with Sarah Porter
Hidden 05/May/05 Lead O/S
just one more 28/Mar/05 Lead
with Max B
al99 ?/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with Jeremy king
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Nick King
Bux ??/2005 Lead O/S

Horribly polished!

with Rupert Bassadone
chris wyatt ??/2005 2nd
with llio elgar
Fat Tim 11/Dec/04 Lead rpt
with Mark kauntz
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Hidden ?/Jun/04 2nd dog
Urgles ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Beesley (oliver)
furry 02/May/04 Lead O/S
with Neil
cem 28/Mar/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
just one more 08/Aug/03 Lead
with Sue B
just one more 27/Jun/03 Lead
with martin gregory, Max B
Hidden 25/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Paz ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with SB
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Richard Hall ??/2003 Lead

Prob 2003. With Adam. Also seconded SK up at a later date.

Hidden ??/2003 -
Nigel Coe 12/Oct/02 -
with Vika Moisey
MikeC59 28/Jun/02 2nd
MikeC59 19/Jun/02 2nd
just one more 26/Apr/02 Lead
with dave c
John Southworth 19/Aug/01 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/May/01 Lead O/S
Roget 05/May/01 2nd O/S
with baccy
Andrew1 25/Mar/01 2nd
with Martin Carter
greedo ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Colin knowles
Hidden 10/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -

Pleasant.

Boxy 13/Sep/99 Lead O/S

Chris followed in darkness

with Chris
Hidden 12/Apr/99 Lead dnf
serby ??/1999 Lead
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/98 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
pezzerrr ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 -
chris sm ??/1997 2nd rpt

Pips 1st HVS

with Pippa Froggatt
jmr 01/Jul/96 Lead
with Robin Pearce
Jim Brooke 18/Jun/96 2nd rpt
with James Latham
lost.arrow 26/Apr/96 Lead
Jim Brooke ?/Feb/96 2nd O/S
with Adrian Fletcher
colin milton 23/Apr/95 Lead
with eric milton
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Hidden 02/Oct/94 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 15/May/94 Solo
Didymus 14/May/94 2nd O/S
with Rongor
jim_randell 29/Apr/94 2nd O/S

A direct line, keeping to the left of Suspense for the entire climb.

with FW, WW
chris sm 27/Feb/94 Lead
with Martin Sime
WRMusall 01/Oct/93 Lead dnf
mikej 24/Mar/93 Lead
with Nick Salmon
AndySL 20/Feb/93 Lead O/S
with Mark
GAtkins 01/Oct/92 Lead O/S
with Andy Russell
Budge ??/1992 Lead
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden ??/1991 Lead
Hidden 21/Dec/88 Lead
Tony Buckley ?/Oct/88 Lead
with Robert Clark
AndyB123 ??/1988 2nd O/S
with Andy E
RichardMc 10/May/87 Lead O/S
with Pete Stokes
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily
Pete Nugent 11/Apr/86 AltLd
with Dave Streader
JamieAyres ?/Jul/85 2nd rpt

had struggled following Gareth previously same year

with Peter Rickard
eroica64 04/Nov/84 Lead O/S
with Denis Crampton
Hidden ?/Jun/83 Solo O/S
The Reaper 17/Apr/83 2nd O/S
climbhigher0 05/Mar/83 2nd O/S
with Andy, Andy and Mikila
AlanLittle ??/1983 Lead
tapley 06/Jun/82 Lead
with Tony Charles
Hidden ??/1981 -
Steve Bell ??/1980 -
Hidden 16/Jul/79 Lead rpt
D Tempest ?/Mar/78 Lead
Marcus ??/1977 -
with Roger Stokes
Andy Chubb 03/Sep/76 -
with Roger
Andy Chubb 08/Jun/76 Lead
with Robin Brooke Smith
Falko 23/Apr/76 AltLd O/S
with Alan Taylor
steve L 04/Oct/75 Lead O/S
with Morty
Mark Kemball 19/Apr/75 2nd
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
Hidden ??/1975 2nd
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1966 AltLd
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 121
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 112
Votes cast 106
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set