One of the Avon Gorge's most famous pitches that usually pulls in a crowd of viewers on the suspension bridge. Start on a good ledge 5m right of the arete below a pocketed crystal crack and just right of a vegetated groove.Move up the crack and then head left to a small groove that leads to a ledge system at 10m. Head left to the arete and make some tricky moves to a wide, pocketed runnel. Take the runnel to a horizontal break and move right into an easier finishing corner. Belay and abseil post on the left. © Rockfax
M W Harvey 1956
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Very enjoyable,good gear. Felt soft for grade
Had so much fun on suspense that I thought it would be rude not too. Another great line.
Clean lead. 2nded this route a while back and loved it....... Loved it even more on the lead. What a route
I think this is my first true onsight hvs
Make that a dozen + 1. For her first HVS Kirsten made an excellent job of leading this.
|steve phillips||18/Jul||Lead O/S||
good climbing lots of threads
Done this a dozen times before but still forgot about all the excellent threads.
First HVS lead at the Gorge. Quality route felt good to push the grade. Onsite but rested in the chimney due incorrect footwork. Nice to climb under such an iconic bridge and the Mathew sailed past too.Pat on the back!**
Really good route with 2 great cruxes. Will be back to lead this..
Entered the groove all wrong and whipped onto the thread. Irritatingly then did it properly and found it easy. Another grudge match.
The first and last bits were a romp with a well protected but more tricky crux in between.
|Steve Bartle||16/Jun||Lead O/S||
Only my second Avon gorge HVS lead. Great route. I found the move into the chimney a little tricky to figure out. Like others said, take plenty of (60cm) skinny slings for the plentiful threads
Gonna take a retro flash for this!
|Phil Murray||27/May||Lead rpt||
|Dino Dave||09/May||Lead O/S|
Jonathon Percival, David Tait
Very atmospheric. First route under the suspension bridge in glorious weather. Really enjoyable well protected HVS. Probably on the softish side compared to its neighbour. Great introduction to this section of Avon Gorge.
Testing out sprained ankle!
Did it as one pitch, but via the belay on the left as I couldn't find the route to the runnel.
Not as good as Suspense, still worthwhile
Great route, good value HVS in an excellent position. Did in the traditional style with a belay. Ed led to the first ledge, I went up to the bolt from there. First HVS lead in a while! Great start to 2015.
|Graham Westbrook||31/Dec/14||Lead O/S|
|Andrew Sloan||19/Oct/14||Lead rpt||
Upper groove poorly protected.
|Phil Murray||19/Oct/14||2nd rpt||
|sara n||20/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
All there...take lots of threads and a nut key on lead to poke the enormous spiders in the holds out of the way.
Ali Walker, Tim
|Aaron Lines||31/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Great route but I was absolutely melting on it despite climbing in the evening - the rock seems to soak up the sun and radiate the heat late into the day.
felt really solid climbing this. Looads of threads.
|Dave Thompson||01/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
Rebecca's first HVS!
Joe Bocking, Rebs
Awesome route, take plenty of slings
|Avon Man||?/Jun/14||Solo rpt|
|Ant Mace||30/May/14||2nd O/S||
Much easier when you don't head up Baby Duck! Really fun. Shout out must go to the best belayer ever!
Great fun to second, and really well led by Thom. However, it was sometimes hard to concentrate due to catching glimpses of ostentatious, stripey leggings.
|George Frisby||09/May/14||Lead rpt||
A large thread at the top chimney has a nest of Jackdaw chicks in it, right at the back of the large pocket. Maybe don't use that one to help not disturb them, plenty of other gear around it.
Went the wrong way (up instead of traversing to the arete) and got ridiculously pumped. Had to downclimb and rested on the rope. Rested again before the moves up to the runnel. Will be back.
|Dave Mahon||04/May/14||Lead O/S||
A touch harder than Suspense. Another lovely route.
|Jeff Mashburn||04/May/14||2nd β||
Felt pretty straight forward for HVS
|Andrew Sloan||14/Mar/14||Lead O/S||
Quite tough. Martin didn't second.
|Cheese Monkey||10/Dec/13||2nd rpt||
Atmospheric at night!
|James S||04/Dec/13||Lead rpt||
henry's first trad experience!
followed the james, super cool route
|Samuel Wainwright||27/Nov/13||Lead O/S||
Simon Allcock, Wilki
Think I climbed this, was looking for Chateau Fitzwarren. The line definitely doesn't go around the arÍte and through the overhang. Started raining towards the top.
Chris Stafford, George Frisby
Been saving this for a while now - great line, excellent gear, and the holds are all there.
|Cheese Monkey||28/Jul/13||2nd rpt|
Harder than I remembered it to be, felt like solid HVS today.
Tim Rogers, Rob Scheichl
|Cheese Monkey||04/Jul/13||Lead O/S|
harder than looked.found the moves just before the runnel a bit testing
|Phil Murray||03/Jul/13||Lead rpt||
|Phil Murray||24/Jun/13||Lead rpt||
More vegetated than I remember!
Jim S, Rob
|Alex the Alex||?/May/13||2nd|
|andy dunn||23/Apr/13||Lead rpt|
|Alex Winter||20/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
good route, bit awkward in the chimney
|Andy Clarke||20/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
Good climbing in a fine position. Found it more awkward than I expected, both getting up to the chimney, then moving up it. Think HVS is fair. But first trad route of year: some shiny new gear, but some rusty skills!
Really easy for HVS. Very nice climb.
|Chris Sansum||23/Feb/13||Lead rpt||
Alex's first trad route!
|Alex Bryant||23/Feb/13||2nd β|
|Murilo Lessa||06/Jan/13||Lead O/S||
Soft start, had a bit of trouble to pass the off width. Though about hanging on the gear but kept my shit together and finished nicely :-) Good protection.
Sometime in the naughties.
|Pete Rigby||??/2013||Lead O/S||
First time on lead, not overly pumpy but more technical.
To retrieve gear from 'baby duck'
|Nick Russell||11/Nov/12||Lead rpt||
Harder than I remember, maybe because I faffed around for ages in the groove before going left
1st route on this wall and it was a lovely post work climb in the best conditions you can expect this time of year
|James S||12/Sep/12||2nd rpt||
|Phil Murray||28/Jul/12||Lead rpt||
Broke out left to the tree at top of Robert's Route for a change.
|James S||15/Jul/12||Lead O/S||
enjoyed this a lot, really cool climbing in the chimney especially.
6th repeat :)
Fell (slipped) while resting, foot slipped off damp foothold. Very frustrating, felt easy for HVS
|Katherine Ross||20/Jun/12||Lead β||
Normally I'm a massive wuss when I push my grade on lead but this was fine :) Some parts are a bit run out but the hard moves are adequately protected. I don't agree with Rockfax's 'sustained' symbol as it wasn't pumpy and there aren't lots of hard moves.
Think I followed the true line better than last time. Nice route, couple of steep moves in the middle.
Nice, some hard moves up the chimney part but good moves on the arete. Had to sit on the rope twice, first to retrieve a cam then to rest on the hard bit.
Lovely warm sunshine; unfortunately only had time for this one quick route.
first HVS lead... spent quite a long time faffing in the chimney, but really enjoyed it
really got to stop climbing this one.
James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Found the crux a bit awkward as your cramped up in the groove. It's a really nice route though.
Done this several times now and always found it harder when seconding as apposed to leaning.
|Chris Sansum||12/Feb/12||2nd rpt|
|Becky H||07/Dec/11||Lead O/S|
|Jonny Raines||07/Dec/11||2nd O/S|
|Clay C||18/Nov/11||Lead rpt|
In the dark.
James Nelson, George Evans
|adam 24||13/Nov/11||2nd O/S|
Started raining for the crux in the groove, and got very pumped trying to stay on, when it got slippy, but dryed up nicely once the rain stopped.
|Poco Loco||29/Sep/11||Lead rpt||
After work climb. Sunshine, 27 degrees and we were the only ones on the wall!
Scary and slippy! Great end to the post-work climbing season though.
As good as ever.
|Nick Russell||03/Sep/11||Lead O/S|
|Chris Sansum||14/Aug/11||2nd rpt||
Climbed with the mother of all hangovers. At least E5 in that state.
|Ruth ND||02/Aug/11||2nd O/S||
Ian C, Mai Wong
lovely route, good gear
Very easy for an HVS. Starts with a vdiff grade scramble up to a decent ledge. Plenty of good holds along the way, though take a good number of cams for the odd little pockets. Nut placements are less frequent. The crux comes about half way up the runnel but apart from being slightly exposed there's a good left hand pull to get through it. There are also a large number of threads, remembering this advice about dynamic strength of dyneema slings when you anchor at the top around the excellent abseil point: http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/ The peg at the top has a square top for the belay and ab back down. Me and TNM did the climb on a single 60m rope and the ab back down left us with a metre of rope to spare.
|just one more||17/Jun/11||Lead||
sustained but realy positive climbing
|Dave Ing||16/Apr/11||2nd O/S|
|Greg Pittam||08/Apr/11||Lead rpt||
First HVS lead! Got scared in places but bullied myself into manning up by remembering I climbed it fine yesterday! Such a lovely climb.
|just one more||20/Mar/11||Lead||
tony l, Svenn G
Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
as good as when I 2nd it
2nded with woolly socks and 3 layers on.
|Clay C||06/Mar/11||2nd rpt|
|Clay C||16/Feb/11||2nd rpt|
|Jay C||16/Feb/11||Lead O/S|
Numb fingers on this. Not surprised though, as the pavement was icy walking along the Portway.
excellent gogarthian chimney, except with nice threads!
First HVS lead. Boom
Nice climb, lots of gear
|Chris Sansum||24/Oct/10||2nd rpt||
Good route not too hard for HVS got told off at the top for using the suspension bridge as a belay lol.
great route, Maybe a little easy for HVS. Classic climb!
nice climbing on some great rock **
|mark schramm||10/Oct/10||Lead O/S|
First time on suspension bridge, nice pockets! Just getting psyched to lead Baby Ducks next but started getting dark and had to leave.
|Clay C||16/Sep/10||Lead O/S||
First HVS, after getting rained off it a few days earlier.
|Rob Exile Ward||12/Sep/10||Lead O/S||
Great climb, two distinct cruxes (a move up a slab to reach the chimney, then a move up the chimney itself), but with bomber gear wherever you want it. Slightly morbid - the police were retrieving a body from the river while we climbed.
|Stone Muppet||09/Sep/10||2nd O/S|
My first HVS. Great climbing with Misha. Very atmospheric crag and not as much noise as expected.
Good protection with lots of threads.
Huw Howells, Jon Bradley
|Si dH||20/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
|Chris Sansum||19/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
Nice route with good protection.
|shyster boulder||10/Apr/10||2nd O/S||
|Will Homoky||08/Apr/10||Lead rpt||
Good fun, but HVS, really?! Bit iffy abseiling on a 50m rope - you'll come well short if you go off the belay station and it's pretty tight going off the tree below!
|Jacob k-d||06/Mar/10||Lead O/S||
nice climb. low in it's grade though
With Wendy and Tomo. Tomo's first outdoor climb.
More like a VS 5a. Certainly much easier than Suspense next door.
|Jessie Rushbrooke||13/Aug/09||Lead β||
First Trad lead at Avon Gorge
|andy dunn||02/Aug/09||Lead O/S||
Led! Have seconded in past.
had to rest at the first thread in the groove
a fall at the very start
|just one more||03/May/09||Lead O/S|
1st limestone lead. What a great climb!
Great route but felt unusually nervy on it. The groundfall potential at about 12 metres (on fairly easy ground) had something to do with that but more likely the unusual sense of exposure on the Butress.
|Jessie Rushbrooke||09/Mar/09||Lead β||
|Dr Caterpillar||25/Jan/09||Lead rpt||
|Dr Caterpillar||23/Oct/08||Lead O/S||
really nice route
My first HVS lead
|Justin T||24/Aug/08||Lead O/S||
Fantastic route - can't understand the comments about polish below - I can only assume some people don't get out much...
|Humpty Dangler||09/May/08||2nd O/S||
Jordan offered me the lead, but after falling on both my last HVS lead attempts earlier in the week the confidence wasn't there. First and last sections are only V Diff, but the middle does have some awkward, steep moves. Good, sound rock. Nice location and exposure. Well worth repeating.
|James Marshall||02/Apr/08||Lead O/S|
First abseil from top with Ben West
|Al Franks||14/Feb/08||Lead O/S||
Jeremy Cusack and Rob Loveridge
Rob loveridge, Jeremy
|Greg Pittam||12/Feb/08||Lead O/S||
|just one more||09/Feb/08||Lead||
Joe Barrington, Pete Swan
|chris sm||10/Nov/07||Lead rpt||
|just one more||14/Oct/07||Lead||
alex h, rich h, Max B
There are two parallel grooves in the upper part of the arete. I climbed the one on the further right. Seemed too easy for 5a HVS. Did I miss anything?
|Al Franks||06/Sep/07||Lead O/S|
|just one more||13/Jul/07||Lead||
Mme Gri-Gri & Mr Shunt
|just one more||01/Jun/07||Lead||
alex h, rich h
|just one more||18/May/07||Lead||
fantastic climb done at the end of a v hard day, though must remembe a second rope for the abseil afterwards lol
|chris sm||12/Apr/07||Lead β|
|jon bradley||?/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
Brilliant route but starting to get slightly polished
somerset swede basher
|Somerset swede basher||31/Mar/07||Lead O/S||
Felt almost as if it should be a sports route with all the funky pocket thingys.
Jim Brooke, Rich Smith
Baz - rock god
|just one more||30/Jun/06||Lead||
|Tom Last||24/Jun/06||Lead O/S||
|Sarah Bough||07/Jun/06||2nd O/S|
|Paul Robertson||11/May/06||2nd rpt||
Pleasant, didn't find too hard. Good threads
Dave V, Neil F
|beardy mike||??/2006||Lead O/S||
|just one more||15/Oct/05||Lead||
rich h, Max B
|Stefan Kruger||21/Jun/05||2nd rpt||
Sarah's first HVS lead on lime stone. A fine effort.
|just one more||28/Mar/05||Lead||
|Jon Greengrass||??/2005||Lead O/S||
|Fat Tim||11/Dec/04||Lead rpt||
|just one more||08/Aug/03||Lead||
|just one more||27/Jun/03||Lead||
martin gregory, Max B
Prob 2003. With Adam. Also seconded SK up at a later date.
|John Southworth||19/Aug/01||Solo O/S|
|Tim M||??/2000||Lead O/S|
Chris followed in darkness
|chris sm||??/1997||2nd rpt||
Pips 1st HVS
|Jim Brooke||18/Jun/96||2nd rpt||
|Jim Brooke||?/Feb/96||2nd O/S||
A direct line, keeping to the left of Suspense for the entire climb.
|William Robertson||??/1987||Lead O/S||
had struggled following Gareth previously same year
Andy, Andy and Mikila
Robin Brooke Smith
Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson