Avon > Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Buttress) >
 
Baby Duck* E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Suspense
 
Beginnings >>
[Beginnings (wall inbetween baby duck and limbo), 2 kb]Fine wall-climbing that requires some care with route finding. Start just right of the crystal crack of Suspension Bridge Arete. 30m. Follow the crack-system just right of the starting crack of Suspension Bridge Arete to the horizontal break at 10m. Climb up right to a steep pocket line and follow this with difficulty, to a point level with a small overhang just down and right of the hole on Suspense. Move up right to stand on a good hold and climb thin cracks up the wall to a break. Climb the pocketed crack above to a traverse line that leads up leftwards to the abseil post. © ROCKFAX
R Nicholas Aug/1971

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Beginnings (wall inbetween baby duck and limbo) © willbris3
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 189 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

grp - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/14

Dan0Me - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Geoff P

hutchay - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/14 with Beth Kendrick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/14

alastairbegley - Lead rpt - 06/Jul/14 with Andrew Twemlow

twem - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Alastair

Got really pumped at the crux and eventually abseiled off a thread.
Dave Mahon - Lead dnf - 05/Jul/14

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/14 with J

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/14 with J

steve_gibbs - Lead dog - 08/Jun/14 with John Harris, George Frisby

Got VERY pumped and fell off from the top of the crux
thom_jenkinson - Lead dog - 01/Jun/14 with George Rowland, Rebs

Rebs - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/14 with George Rowland, Thom Jenkinson

Really nice route if you have the ability to notice that above the hellfire spreading through your forearms!
George.Rowland - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Rebecca Millington, Thom jenkinson

chrisclimber - Lead - Jun/14

Hard, pumpy middle section. Took several falls on one move.
corinrathbone - 2nd dog - 19/May/14 with &#321;ukasz Harazin

Lucas H - Lead O/S - 19/May/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Apr/14

Ridiculous pump on even on 2nd
Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/14 with Peter

Very good and pumpy. At one point this gets very close to both Suspense and Limbo, wasn't quite sure where to go for a while. Kind of straight up in the end...
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/14 with Ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14

shoulders - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with dai

Hard, very pumpy in the middle.
Richardlake - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with William Lake

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Chasqui Patter

James Jackson - 2014

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

I think this is what we climbed. Was hoping to climb Suspense.
squicky - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/13 with John

Hmmm could be up for a lead here soon.... though that would be a whole different story!
Phil Murray - TR rpt - 04/Sep/13 with Liz

zcsharp - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/13 with Chris Stafford, George Frisby

Had attempted this previously on second but given up at the crux. Felt hard with a couple of 5b moves - a whole world away from its two neighbours to the left.
stafford101 - 2nd β - 26/Aug/13 with Jamie, George Frisby

George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/13

steve_gibbs - TR O/S - 06/Aug/13

at last! save some strength for the top bit
evhall - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13 with Mike D

mkonca - TR O/S - 06/Aug/13 with steve gibbs

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/13 with David Trelawney-Ross

Billg - 2nd rpt - 30/Jun/13 with Megan Beaumont

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/13

mmm...thready! really enjoyed this. paul led something I'll call suspended duck, but I climbed baby duck. thanks for the rope, random helpful matt!
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with paul wood

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 03/May/13 with George

georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 03/May/13 with Alex Winter

Davebryant - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with Sam Hann

sam.hann - 2nd - Apr/13 with Davebryant

Sometime in the naughties.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2013

alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Neil Morbey

Couldn't move up the first steep section
jon_ridley - Lead dnf - 14/Nov/12 with Will Pope

rain and very wet rock made this feel more like e3!
Aaron Lines - Lead - 22/Oct/12 with frank ramsay

michael00693 - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Justin

AlexD - 2nd - 13/Sep/12 with Ed

Polished.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12 with AlexD

James S - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/12 with jamie

zcsharp - 2nd - 12/Sep/12 with James S

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/12

s.c.white - 23/Aug/12 with mike thomas, Tim Ashlin

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Aug/12

ericinbristol - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/12 with Johnny S

It is a tad pumpy but decent gear. Really struggled on second a year or so ago. Fantastic route though.
Stanners - Lead rpt - 06/Jul/12 with Kyle Williamson

Sustained, no real crux. Climbed with poor tactics, got pumped hanging around at half rests and fiddling with gear. Struggled a little with route finding, nearly ended up on suspense but traversed back and found the line. Pulled through in the end but it was close to a fall.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Anthony

Billg - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Susanne Richards

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 21/May/12 with Charlotte

al99 - Lead O/S - 16/May/12 with Raff Russell

Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Martin

really apprecited the climbing round the crux pockets, even if I did come off several times before getting into it properly.
R_W_M - 2nd dog - 18/Mar/12 with Eleri

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12

gazhbo - Lead - 18/Mar/12

Wasn't committing to the crux, so after faffing around, aided around it. Not climbing well at present!
Chris Sansum - Lead dog - 19/Feb/12 with James Miller

HarryB - 2nd dog - 28/Jan/12 with Al

j miller - 2nd - 2012

peterbeaumont - 2012

peterbeaumont - 2012

beckybutcher91 - 2nd dnf - 2012 with Will Twigger, Mike Gadd

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 05/Dec/11 with Pete Saunders

Combined Limbo with Baby Duck - Fell on traverse as a handhold broke off. Exciting 5m swing into open space
cbeard - 2nd - 17/Nov/11 with Will Attridge

Great route,steep with perfect gear
just one more - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Svenn G, Phil K

Great route - hard for the grade though! Had a massive freak out due to exposure where you move right :( I need to learn to be calmer when leading!!
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Tom

Thought this was onsight til I checked my log book...tricky crux, solid at E1. Good route.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/11

Cornish_James - 2nd - 26/Sep/11 with Will Attridge

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 19/Sep/11 with Pete

pumpy, lots of threads.
Dave Mahon - 2nd - Aug/11 with Brian Mead

Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Eric

ericinbristol - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/11 with Ben (CM)

sustained climbing which got very steep very quickly, loads of good threads
stvredmond - Lead - 19/Jun/11 with Rob Mullet

Clay C - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/11 with Chris S

stafford101 - 2nd dnf - 09/Jun/11 with Clay

morganator - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Charlie Davies

icklejason - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/11

Got pumped. Nearly fell off at the bulge. Stepped into the Suspense cave for a quick shake out after the crux.
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11 with Tomar

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 13/Mar/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Clay C - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Harry K

Good climb, thought that we were doing Suspense until two guys told us we weren't after we had finished. Just as well on the crux I was thinking dam this is pretty stiff for HVS?!?!
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Rob Stanfield

Stanners - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Sneaky climb after work at 4.30pm. Nice route! I love trad at Avon. Awkward bit on the pockets but bomber proof threads and cams protect the hard section.
Tomar - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/11 with Rafael

Steep and sustained.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 08/Feb/11 with Helen S

flipping heck, this felt hard! But having looked at the diagram in CC & Rockfax, suspect I may have strayed off route & onto a bit of E2 at the right hand slabby bit.
hms - 2nd β - 08/Feb/11 with Brian

jonbwoy - 2011

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Lisa, Matt Fry

Matt Fry - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Lisa Alhadeff, Andy Janezko

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Rich bennet

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/10

Really good. Climbing up across the face from the crack/pockets felt quite committing.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Andy Morris

Good route. Found it considerably easier technically than the Earl of Perth which we had done earlier (which has a very tricky crux).
Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Richard Lade

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/10

not been on the suspension bridge for a while - pocket climbing felt strange- but thoroughly enjoyable. interesting crux, with nowhere that I wanted to stop and place gear until the harder moves were over and done with.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/10 with J

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Anna

Ant Mace - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/10 with Eric Herring

ericinbristol - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/10 with Ant Mace

my first e1 propper and a great route.
shyster boulder - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with alex harper

First E1!
ClareR - Lead β - 09/Mar/10 with Kate

ClareR - Lead β - 09/Mar/10 with Kate

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/10

With Wendy.
colesy - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10

ian d f - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Ian

First E1 at Avon Gorge
Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead β - 10/Sep/09 with GF

Hidden - Lead β - 20/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/09

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 21/May/09 with Eric Herring

first part of it at least, maybe finished on the HVS next to it?
EmmanuelF - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with arnaud

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/09

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 08/Jan/09 with Tim

Hidden - 2nd dog - 08/Jan/09

Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 23/Oct/08 with Howard

g8 route again pumpy
Dale - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with johny

Real nice route, good moves all the way up.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/08 with Will

IceMonkey1982 - 02/Aug/08

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Jo Stadden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/08

Found it quite strenious on Second, but good climb.
Greg Pittam - 2nd β - 07/May/08 with Sam Howel

schwenk - TR - Apr/08

Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/08 with Tom Hindson

Sunny windy Saturday afternoon. Good sustained climbing. Crux with slightly awkward pockets. Fun!
jameswbrae - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Al Franks

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/08 with James Rae

Alasdair88 - Lead dog - 01/Mar/08 with Sam Howell

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Nov/07

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/07

chris sm - 2nd β - 12/Apr/07 with Ben Sutton

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/07 with Clare

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 25/Feb/07 with Joe

Hidden - 2007

Actually stepped right on to the face this time. This actually avoided what I could remember of Beginnings (all but the top).
Paz - Lead rpt - 09/Nov/06 with AJM

climbed in the dark with head torches (by choice)
danp - Lead O/S - Nov/06

maresia - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Mike Kann

Greg Pittam - 2nd - Aug/06 with James Burrows

Bux - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/06 with Rupert Bassadone

JasonG - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Barry Donovan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06

Tom Last - 2nd - 24/Jun/06 with Clive

gonggashan - 2nd - Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/06

tom.e - 2nd rpt - 24/May/06 with Charlie Everett

Fat Tim - Lead RP - 07/May/06 with Sarah Baker

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 04/May/06 with Ben Friedland

RedFox - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/06 with Tom K

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Jan/06

gimmer - 2006

mike kann - 2006 with maresia

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/05

tom.e - 2nd β - 2005 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Jun/04

furry - Lead O/S - 02/May/04 with Neil

philhilo - Lead O/S - 2004 with Ed Shaw

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Jul/03

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03 with Ian Butterworth

Hidden - 2003

Went direct up a line of pockets at top (now know this isn't on Suspense) - good, pumpy.
Paz - Dec/02 with AR

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/02

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/01 with Jemma Wadham

Roget - 2nd O/S - 05/May/01 with baccy

Fell off, got back on a finished route.
gimmer - Lead dog - May/01 with Rich

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Ally Smith - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

danp - Lead O/S - 1999

kevp - Lead O/S - Mar/98 with Jasen Ainley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/95

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

leland stamper - 2nd O/S - Aug/93 with pete

strapless - Lead - 1990 with Ju

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
thom_jenkinson, Hidden, BicycleBradley, Belaywhenready, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, explodingsprouts, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 113
hard E20 of 37
E20 of 37
easy E20 of 37
hard E121 of 37
E115 of 37
easy E11 of 37
hard HVS0 of 37
HVS0 of 37
easy HVS0 of 37
hard 5c0 of 38
5c0 of 38
easy 5c0 of 38
hard 5b7 of 38
5b28 of 38
easy 5b3 of 38
hard 5a0 of 38
5a0 of 38
easy 5a0 of 38
3 Stars0 of 38
2 Stars30 of 38
1 Star8 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead118 of 189 (62.4%)
Followed53 of 189 (28.0%)
Toproped4 of 189 (2.1%)
Unknown14 of 189 (7.4%)

'Climbed'38 of 189 (20.1%)
clean O/S99 of 189 (52.4%)
clean β11 of 189 (5.8%)
clean rpt24 of 189 (12.7%)
clean RP1 of 189 (0.5%)
dogged12 of 189 (6.3%)
dnf4 of 189 (2.1%)