Fine wall-climbing that requires some care with route finding. Start just right of the crystal crack of Suspension Bridge Arete.Follow the crack-system just right of the starting crack of Suspension Bridge Arete to the horizontal break at 10m. Climb up right to a steep pocket line and follow this with difficulty, to a point level with a small overhang just down and right of the hole on Suspense. Move up right to stand on a good hold and climb thin cracks up the wall to a break. Climb the pocketed crack above to a traverse line that leads up leftwards to the abseil post. © Rockfax
R Nicholas Aug/1971
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|London Luke||?/Sep||Lead O/S|
I have got to stop trying to climb things from memory, especially when that memory is 40 years old. I faced right in the "pod" and had to come down for a rest. Faced left and did the move easily.
Was hoping it would feel easier than last time but it didn't. Definitely a tricky E1, I found a lot of the moves hard due to awkwardness.
|Dino Dave||09/May||2nd O/S|
|John Tanner||02/May||Lead O/S|
Really puppy on the second. Very good lead from Steve. Kept his head in the game.
Yep, it's pumpy. Felt like a bit of an effort to stay on route.
Pumpy but reasonably straightforward to work out what you have to do....until halfway up when it's very difficult not to stray onto Suspense. A good route.
Individual moves felt much easier than last time (if sustained!) however climbed with very poor tactics placing unnecessary gear and getting too pumped to climb - absolutely gutting. Expect to get the tick next time, just need a bit of psyche!
|Nick Russell||04/Mar||Lead rpt||
Harder than I remember.
Felt easier and more fun than Suspense. The holds may have been smaller, but at least with really obvious pockets you can tell exactly where they are and what to do with them.
|Graham Westbrook||27/Sep/14||Lead O/S|
|sara n||20/Sep/14||TR O/S||
Lovely climbing on top rope...plenty of pro but some exposed bits and a wet hold to move off the crux! Did it twice in a row to get a bit of excercise.
|Dave Mahon||05/Jul/14||Lead dnf||
Got really pumped at the crux and eventually abseiled off a thread.
|andy dunn||23/Jun/14||Lead rpt|
|andy dunn||16/Jun/14||Lead rpt|
John Harris, George Frisby
Got VERY pumped and fell off from the top of the crux
Really nice route if you have the ability to notice that above the hellfire spreading through your forearms!
|Avon Man||?/Jun/14||Solo rpt|
|Cheese Monkey||04/Apr/14||2nd rpt||
Ridiculous pump on even on 2nd
Very good and pumpy. At one point this gets very close to both Suspense and Limbo, wasn't quite sure where to go for a while. Kind of straight up in the end...
Hard, very pumpy in the middle.
|Pete Rigby||09/Mar/14||Lead O/S||
I think this is what we climbed. Was hoping to climb Suspense.
|Phil Murray||04/Sep/13||TR rpt||
Hmmm could be up for a lead here soon.... though that would be a whole different story!
Chris Stafford, George Frisby
Had attempted this previously on second but given up at the crux. Felt hard with a couple of 5b moves - a whole world away from its two neighbours to the left.
|George Frisby||25/Aug/13||2nd O/S|
mmm...thready! really enjoyed this. paul led something I'll call suspended duck, but I climbed baby duck. thanks for the rope, random helpful matt!
|Alex Winter||03/May/13||Lead O/S||
Sometime in the naughties.
Couldn't move up the first steep section
rain and very wet rock made this feel more like e3!
|Ed Babs||13/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
|James S||12/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
mike thomas, Tim Ashlin
It is a tad pumpy but decent gear. Really struggled on second a year or so ago. Fantastic route though.
Sustained, no real crux. Climbed with poor tactics, got pumped hanging around at half rests and fiddling with gear. Struggled a little with route finding, nearly ended up on suspense but traversed back and found the line. Pulled through in the end but it was close to a fall.
|Nick Russell||01/Apr/12||Lead O/S||
really apprecited the climbing round the crux pockets, even if I did come off several times before getting into it properly.
|Chris Sansum||19/Feb/12||Lead dog||
Wasn't committing to the crux, so after faffing around, aided around it. Not climbing well at present!
Combined Limbo with Baby Duck - Fell on traverse as a handhold broke off. Exciting 5m swing into open space
|just one more||04/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
Great route,steep with perfect gear
Svenn G, Phil K
Great route - hard for the grade though! Had a massive freak out due to exposure where you move right :( I need to learn to be calmer when leading!!
Thought this was onsight til I checked my log book...tricky crux, solid at E1. Good route.
|Andy Peak 1||19/Sep/11||Lead||
pumpy, lots of threads.
|Cheese Monkey||04/Jul/11||2nd O/S|
sustained climbing which got very steep very quickly, loads of good threads
|Clay C||09/Jun/11||Lead rpt|
Got pumped. Nearly fell off at the bulge. Stepped into the Suspense cave for a quick shake out after the crux.
Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
|Clay C||06/Mar/11||Lead O/S|
Good climb, thought that we were doing Suspense until two guys told us we weren't after we had finished. Just as well on the crux I was thinking dam this is pretty stiff for HVS?!?!
Sneaky climb after work at 4.30pm. Nice route! I love trad at Avon. Awkward bit on the pockets but bomber proof threads and cams protect the hard section.
Steep and sustained.
|Matt Fry||12/Sep/10||2nd O/S|
|Sgt. Vest||11/Sep/10||Lead O/S|
|Si dH||20/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
Really good. Climbing up across the face from the crack/pockets felt quite committing.
|Chris Sansum||19/Jun/10||2nd O/S||
Good route. Found it considerably easier technically than the Earl of Perth which we had done earlier (which has a very tricky crux).
|andy dunn||14/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
not been on the suspension bridge for a while - pocket climbing felt strange- but thoroughly enjoyable. interesting crux, with nowhere that I wanted to stop and place gear until the harder moves were over and done with.
|Ant Mace||13/Apr/10||2nd dog|
|shyster boulder||10/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
my first e1 propper and a great route.
|ian d f||20/Sep/09||Lead O/S|
|Jessie Rushbrooke||10/Sep/09||Lead β||
First E1 at Avon Gorge
first part of it at least, maybe finished on the HVS next to it?
|Dr Caterpillar||23/Oct/08||2nd O/S||
g8 route again pumpy
Real nice route, good moves all the way up.
|Greg Pittam||07/May/08||2nd β||
Found it quite strenious on Second, but good climb.
|Will Homoky||29/Mar/08||Lead O/S||
Sunny windy Saturday afternoon. Good sustained climbing. Crux with slightly awkward pockets. Fun!
|Al Franks||01/Mar/08||Lead O/S||
|just one more||14/Oct/07||Lead||
|chris sm||12/Apr/07||2nd β|
Actually stepped right on to the face this time. This actually avoided what I could remember of Beginnings (all but the top).
climbed in the dark with head torches (by choice)
|just one more||30/Jun/06||Lead||
john smith, Svenn G
|Fat Tim||07/May/06||Lead RP|
|Paul Robertson||04/May/06||Lead rpt||
|just one more||20/Jul/03||Lead||
john smith, Svenn G
|John Southworth||?/Jul/03||Lead O/S|
Went direct up a line of pockets at top (now know this isn't on Suspense) - good, pumpy.
Fell off, got back on a finished route.
|Tim M||??/2000||Lead O/S|
|leland stamper||?/Aug/93||2nd O/S||