Rockfax Description
Fine wall-climbing that requires some care with route finding. Start just right of the crystal crack of Suspension Bridge Arete.
Follow the crack-system just right of the starting crack of Suspension Bridge Arete to the horizontal break at 10m. Climb up right to a steep pocket line and follow this with difficulty, to a point level with a small overhang just down and right of the hole on Suspense. Move up right to stand on a good hold and climb thin cracks up the wall to a break. Climb the pocketed crack above to a traverse line that leads up leftwards to the abseil post. © Rockfax

R Nicholas Aug/1971

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

WillAndrew 31/Oct 2nd O/S
with Cara, Matt
Tim Sparrow 31/Oct 2nd
with Ned
London Luke ?/Sep Lead O/S
kirsten 29/Aug 2nd
GridNorth 29/Aug Lead

I have got to stop trying to climb things from memory, especially when that memory is 40 years old. I faced right in the "pod" and had to come down for a rest. Faced left and did the move easily.

with Kirsten Donovon
steve_gibbs 31/Jul 2nd rpt
with Pauline Picchio
katherinesydney 23/Jun 2nd rpt
with neil morbey
wilkinscl 12/May 2nd
Kemics 12/May Lead rpt

Was hoping it would feel easier than last time but it didn't. Definitely a tricky E1, I found a lot of the moves hard due to awkwardness.

with Corin
Hugobristol 09/May Lead O/S

First half wasnt too bad lots of good pockets. Had issues finding the route in the second half, may have strayed too far left..

with Dave
Dino Dave 09/May 2nd O/S
emdawes 07/May 2nd
John Tanner 02/May Lead O/S
Wendy 21/Apr Lead O/S
with Tom Ball
Hidden 21/Apr 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 16/Apr Lead rpt
with Max Coney
Legs 16/Apr 2nd O/S

Really puppy on the second. Very good lead from Steve. Kept his head in the game.

with Steve
felixizzy 10/Apr Lead O/S

Yep, it's pumpy. Felt like a bit of an effort to stay on route.

with George
georgeevans88 10/Apr 2nd O/S

Pumpy but reasonably straightforward to work out what you have to do....until halfway up when it's very difficult not to stray onto Suspense. A good route.

with Felix
youwillfindjimbo 12/Mar Lead O/S
thom_jenkinson 12/Mar Lead dog

Individual moves felt much easier than last time (if sustained!) however climbed with very poor tactics placing unnecessary gear and getting too pumped to climb - absolutely gutting. Expect to get the tick next time, just need a bit of psyche!

with Rebs
Nick Russell 04/Mar Lead rpt

Harder than I remember.

with Emily
Emily 04/Mar 2nd O/S

Felt easier and more fun than Suspense. The holds may have been smaller, but at least with really obvious pockets you can tell exactly where they are and what to do with them.

with Nick
badgerjockey 01/Nov/14 Lead β
with Pete
Graham Westbrook 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
sara n 20/Sep/14 TR O/S

Lovely climbing on top rope...plenty of pro but some exposed bits and a wet hold to move off the crux! Did it twice in a row to get a bit of excercise.

with Neville Contractor
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead
grp 24/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Dan0Me 23/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Geoff P
hutchay 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Beth Kendrick
Hidden 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 06/Jul/14 Lead rpt
twem 06/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Dave Mahon 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Got really pumped at the crux and eventually abseiled off a thread.

andy dunn 23/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with J
andy dunn 16/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with J
steve_gibbs 08/Jun/14 Lead dog
with John Harris, George Frisby
thom_jenkinson 01/Jun/14 Lead dog

Got VERY pumped and fell off from the top of the crux

Rebs 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
George.Rowland 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Really nice route if you have the ability to notice that above the hellfire spreading through your forearms!

chrisclimber ?/Jun/14 Lead
Avon Man ?/Jun/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 19/May/14 2nd dog
LucasHarazin 19/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/14 2nd dog
Cheese Monkey 04/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Ridiculous pump on even on 2nd

with Peter
pheotleyr 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Very good and pumpy. At one point this gets very close to both Suspense and Limbo, wasn't quite sure where to go for a while. Kind of straight up in the end...

with Ben
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
shoulders 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with dai
Richardlake 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Hard, very pumpy in the middle.

will_lake 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Pete Rigby 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Chasqui Patter
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
squicky 19/Oct/13 2nd O/S

I think this is what we climbed. Was hoping to climb Suspense.

with John
Phil Murray 04/Sep/13 TR rpt

Hmmm could be up for a lead here soon.... though that would be a whole different story!

with Liz
zcsharp 27/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Chris Stafford, George Frisby
stafford101 26/Aug/13 2nd β

Had attempted this previously on second but given up at the crux. Felt hard with a couple of 5b moves - a whole world away from its two neighbours to the left.

George Frisby 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 06/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mkonca 06/Aug/13 TR O/S
with steve gibbs
GAtkins 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with David Trelawney-Ross
Billg 30/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
katherinesydney 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S

mmm...thready! really enjoyed this. paul led something I'll call suspended duck, but I climbed baby duck. thanks for the rope, random helpful matt!

with paul wood
Alex Winter 03/May/13 Lead O/S
with George
georgeevans88 03/May/13 2nd O/S
Davebryant ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
sam.hann ?/Apr/13 2nd
richiebongo ??/2013 Lead O/S

Sometime in the naughties.

tskelhon ??/2013 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ??/2013 2nd
alastairbegley 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 14/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't move up the first steep section

Aaron Lines 22/Oct/12 Lead

rain and very wet rock made this feel more like e3!

Tangerine_Kingdom 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Justin
AlexD 13/Sep/12 2nd
with Ed
Ed Babs 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S


with AlexD
James S 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with jamie
zcsharp 12/Sep/12 2nd
with James S
Hidden 12/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
s.c.white 23/Aug/12 -
with mike thomas, Tim Ashlin
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead β
Hidden 14/Aug/12 2nd rpt
ericinbristol 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Johnny S
Stanners 06/Jul/12 Lead rpt

It is a tad pumpy but decent gear. Really struggled on second a year or so ago. Fantastic route though.

Kemics 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Sustained, no real crux. Climbed with poor tactics, got pumped hanging around at half rests and fiddling with gear. Struggled a little with route finding, nearly ended up on suspense but traversed back and found the line. Pulled through in the end but it was close to a fall.

with Anthony
Billg 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with Susanne Richards
lukehodson 21/May/12 Lead O/S
al99 16/May/12 Lead O/S
with Raff Russell
Nick Russell 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Martin
R_W_M 18/Mar/12 2nd dog

really apprecited the climbing round the crux pockets, even if I did come off several times before getting into it properly.

with Eleri
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
gazhbo 18/Mar/12 Lead
Chris Sansum 19/Feb/12 Lead dog

Wasn't committing to the crux, so after faffing around, aided around it. Not climbing well at present!

with James Miller
HarryB 28/Jan/12 2nd dog
with Al
j miller ??/2012 2nd
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
beckybutcher91 ??/2012 2nd dnf
Toby Dunn 05/Dec/11 2nd
with Pete Saunders
cbeard 17/Nov/11 2nd

Combined Limbo with Baby Duck - Fell on traverse as a handhold broke off. Exciting 5m swing into open space

just one more 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Great route,steep with perfect gear

with Svenn G, Phil K
BeccaSnowden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Great route - hard for the grade though! Had a massive freak out due to exposure where you move right :( I need to learn to be calmer when leading!!

with Tom
thomasadixon 01/Oct/11 Lead rpt

Thought this was onsight til I checked my log book...tricky crux, solid at E1. Good route.

Hidden 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Cornish_James 26/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 19/Sep/11 Lead
with Pete
Dave Mahon ?/Aug/11 2nd

pumpy, lots of threads.

with Brian Mead
Cheese Monkey 04/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Eric
ericinbristol 04/Jul/11 Lead rpt
stvredmond 19/Jun/11 Lead

sustained climbing which got very steep very quickly, loads of good threads

Clay C 09/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Chris S
stafford101 09/Jun/11 2nd dnf
with Clay
morganator 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Charlie Davies
icklejason 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/11 2nd
crossdressingrodney 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Got pumped. Nearly fell off at the bulge. Stepped into the Suspense cave for a quick shake out after the crux.

with Tomar
AlexRenshaw 13/Mar/11 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Clay C 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Harry K
Quarryboy 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Good climb, thought that we were doing Suspense until two guys told us we weren't after we had finished. Just as well on the crux I was thinking dam this is pretty stiff for HVS?!?!

Stanners 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Tomar 16/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Sneaky climb after work at 4.30pm. Nice route! I love trad at Avon. Awkward bit on the pockets but bomber proof threads and cams protect the hard section.

with Rafael
bpmclimb 08/Feb/11 Lead rpt

Steep and sustained.

with Helen S
Hidden 08/Feb/11 2nd β
jonbwoy ??/2011 -
LisaA 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Andy
bigdrew 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Sgt. Vest 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
Si dH 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Really good. Climbing up across the face from the crack/pockets felt quite committing.

with Andy Morris
Chris Sansum 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Good route. Found it considerably easier technically than the Earl of Perth which we had done earlier (which has a very tricky crux).

with Richard Lade
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead rpt
andy dunn 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S

not been on the suspension bridge for a while - pocket climbing felt strange- but thoroughly enjoyable. interesting crux, with nowhere that I wanted to stop and place gear until the harder moves were over and done with.

with J
Marti999 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Ant Mace 13/Apr/10 2nd dog
ericinbristol 13/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Ant Mace
shyster boulder 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

my first e1 propper and a great route.

with alex harper
ClareR 09/Mar/10 Lead β

First E1!

with Kate
ClareR 09/Mar/10 Lead β
with Kate
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
colesy 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

With Wendy.

ian d f 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 20/Sep/09 2nd
with Ian
Jessie Rushbrooke 10/Sep/09 Lead β

First E1 at Avon Gorge

with GF
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead β
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead
Dan_Carroll 21/May/09 Lead O/S
with Eric Herring
EmmanuelF 10/May/09 Lead O/S

first part of it at least, maybe finished on the HVS next to it?

with arnaud
Hidden 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 08/Jan/09 Lead rpt
with Tim
Hidden 08/Jan/09 2nd dog
Dr Caterpillar 23/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Howard
Dale ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S

g8 route again pumpy

with johny
thomasadixon 14/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Real nice route, good moves all the way up.

with Will
IceMonkey1982 02/Aug/08 -
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Jo Stadden
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 07/May/08 2nd β

Found it quite strenious on Second, but good climb.

with Sam Howel
schwenk ?/Apr/08 TR
Will Homoky 29/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Hindson
jameswbrae 01/Mar/08 2nd O/S

Sunny windy Saturday afternoon. Good sustained climbing. Crux with slightly awkward pockets. Fun!

with Al Franks
Al Franks 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with James Rae
Alasdair88 01/Mar/08 Lead dog
with Sam Howell
Hidden 25/Nov/07 Lead rpt
pezzerrr 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
just one more 14/Oct/07 Lead
with Max B
Hidden 03/Aug/07 2nd O/S
chris sm 12/Apr/07 2nd β
bpmclimb 08/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Clare
Bristoldave 25/Feb/07 Lead rpt
with Joe
Hidden ??/2007 -
Paz 09/Nov/06 Lead rpt

Actually stepped right on to the face this time. This actually avoided what I could remember of Beginnings (all but the top).

with AJM
danp ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S

climbed in the dark with head torches (by choice)

maresia 16/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Greg Pittam ?/Aug/06 2nd
with James Burrows
Bux 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
JasonG ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Barry Donovan
just one more 30/Jun/06 Lead
with john smith, Svenn G
Hidden 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Tom Last 24/Jun/06 2nd
with Clive
gonggashan ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Dan Perrott
Hidden 25/May/06 Lead O/S
tom.e 24/May/06 2nd rpt
with Charlie Everett
Fat Tim 07/May/06 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 04/May/06 Lead rpt
with Ben Friedland
RedFox 22/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Tom K
Hidden 15/Jan/06 Lead rpt
gimmer ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 -
with maresia
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2005 2nd β
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 07/Aug/04 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jun/04 Lead β
furry 02/May/04 Lead O/S
with Neil
philhilo ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 20/Jul/03 Lead
with john smith, Svenn G
John Southworth ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with Ian Butterworth
Hidden ??/2003 -
Paz ?/Dec/02 -

Went direct up a line of pockets at top (now know this isn't on Suspense) - good, pumpy.

with AR
Hidden 01/May/02 Lead O/S
DavidR 20/Jun/01 2nd O/S
with Jemma Wadham
Roget 05/May/01 2nd O/S
with baccy
gimmer ?/May/01 Lead dog

Fell off, got back on a finished route.

with Rich
Hidden ?/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
danp ??/1999 Lead O/S
serby ??/1999 Lead
kevp ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Jasen Ainley
Hidden ??/1998 -
Hidden 05/Feb/95 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
leland stamper ?/Aug/93 2nd O/S
with pete
strapless ??/1990 Lead
with Ju
Steve Bell ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1976 -
with Roger Stokes
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, PEccleston, badgerjockey, Hidden, BicycleBradley, Belaywhenready, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, explodingsprouts, Hidden
High E2
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 43
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Not Set