Quite possibly the best climb I've done at Avon. I wouldn't say it's soft for E1, but it's definitely not hard for E1. The line of pockets and the traverses are both stunning. Didn't bother with the crappy looking easy second pitch, climbed straight up then left to the Arete belay. Where's the peg mentioned in the guidebook btw? Didn't find it.pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/13 with Mike
kenneM - 2nd - 13/Nov/13 with Mike Dudley
Two large blocks came off in my hand on the easy bit before the ramp resulting in a fall.
squicky - 2nd dog - 19/Oct/13 with John
Pleasure, as always.
Alex Winter - 2nd rpt - 07/Oct/13 with Alex
alexjz - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Alex Winter
max railing - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/13 with Oliver
Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/13
Middle section where you move left out of the pocket line is really enjoyable. Kev did it all in one pitch. Top a bit overgrown.
leigh - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Kev
steve-grigg - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/13
awesome main pitch, sustained and keeps on giving. top pitch is crap, would be worth 3 stars otherwise
Webster - 2nd - 02/Sep/13
First trad climb I have done in the UK. Great fun.
machine45 - 2nd dog - 02/Sep/13 with Steve Grigg
I just managed the tough crux move up to the peg before having to take a short rest. Higher up I lost my bearings and ended up at the left hand ab point. Really nice route but a shame about the poor quality upper pitch.
Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 31/Aug/13 with Martin Haworth
andy dunn - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/13 with J
Got around to leading it, as good as i remembered.
zcsharp - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs
steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/13
Fantastic route! Well protected and sustained. The technical face section is very cool!
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with James Taylor
jamestaylor92 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with james slater
Gibbo - Lead dnf - 06/Jul/13 with Ollie Keynes
Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Iggy, Neil
Done as one pitch. Great climb but surprised I made it as I was pumped off my face before I even started. Spent most of the route trying (and failing) to find somewhere to rest and have a cry.
squicky - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Neil, Ben
Chris Ridgers - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/13 with David Frost
aipattison - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with George Evans
georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 31/May/13 with Alex Pattison
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 03/May/13 with George
georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 03/May/13 with Alex Winter
Hidden - Lead - 03/May/13
TDSvejstrup - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/13 with Simon White
SGD - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Andy Clarke
Very good, varied climbing. Did as one pitch, then shuffled over to arete belay. Moves to get from pockets onto face needed a bit of oopmh, then traverse was pleasantly technical contrast.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with SGD
as good as the first time I did it!
Stanners - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Good climbing, seemed a little different to how I remembered it this time although felt very hard as a warm up with frozen hands.
Quarryboy - 2nd rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Alex Rhodes, JamesRich, Rob Stanfield
Alex_RhodesUK - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Rob Stanfield
Sometime in the naughties.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2013
jcw - 2013
Foxy - 2nd rpt - 08/Dec/12 with Neil Morbey
First time on lead
HarryB - Lead rpt - 30/Nov/12 with Will A
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Nov/12
one long pitch
Kemics - 2nd rpt - 25/Oct/12 with Enduro Dan
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12
Roo took the 5b lead & I had to dog that one but definitely enjoyed it. Very fingery moves. Found the start of the 4b tricky but otherwise an interesting traverse.
irishguyinlondon - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/12 with RooFin
done as one awesome pitch...really cool moves through the pockets and out onto the wall out left.
James S - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/12 with jamie
Very fun and an excellent climb, i want to lead it soon.
zcsharp - 2nd - 12/Sep/12 with James S
Top pitch heavily vegitated
tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Libby
Sat on gear at the crux, great climb
Foxy - Lead dog - 03/Sep/12
mattshort - 2nd - 02/Sep/12 with Alan Murray
Led the whole thing in one pitch - rope drag wasn't too bad either.
Great route with a nice delicate crux sequence. I didn't think it was very pumpy - not compared to the Earl anyway..
Alan100 - Lead - 02/Sep/12
Solid stuff from James, great effort!
Stanners - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/12 with James Rich
Got to be one of my favourite routes I've climbed so far. Pleased with how smoothly it went especially as I hadn't warmed up beforehand.
JamesRich - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Rob stanfield
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/12 with DeDe
Diane - 2nd - 15/Jul/12 with Nick Eaton
Billg - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Rob Mcallister
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12
Lead second pitch.
Kemics - AltLd rpt - 09/Jun/12 with Anthony
Anthony Dixon - Lead - 09/Jun/12
evilweed - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with Tom Prince, Dan
Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/12
shoulders - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with rich smith
First E1 :-) Lovely climb, loved it. Found a bit pumpy, but manageable.
pffft - 2nd O/S - 19/May/12 with Monkey
I really enjoyed this. Really nice moves, although quite pumpy (mostly due to faffing with gear on the steep section). Excellent gear.
Monk - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Luke Vincent
Lead the first long pitch, 2nd on the second pitch.
hutchay - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Dave Clover
Excellent and sustained
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Jason
Ground up 3rd go, found it hard for the grade.
Jon Didymus - Lead RP - 11/May/12 with Nick
gb05 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Adam Mackintosh
Mackinclimb - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/12
Ground up. Blew the on-sight due to crappy rope work and a hangover. Mid crux decided to back up the peg, bomber camalot 1 above the peg, clipped under rather than over the double rope causing horrendous rope drag, tried to reverse the crux, got pumped and slumped onto the gear. Swore. Lowered, pulled ropes and climbed clean.
Kemics - Lead - 25/Mar/12 with Katherine
Climbed this with totally different, and better, moves than last time. Tasty crux sequence. Led P2.
katherinesydney - AltLd rpt - 24/Mar/12 with caleb kemics
HarryB - 2nd rpt - 10/Mar/12 with Luca
LJC - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Harry
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Feb/12
misterb - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/12 with tom
Kevster - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12
Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with steve read
mike kann - 2012
peterbeaumont - 2012
peterbeaumont - 2012
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/11
Clay C - 2nd rpt - 18/Nov/11 with Will A
Combined with Baby Duck. Fell on traverse as handhold broke off!
cbeard - 2nd - 17/Nov/11 with Will Attridge
in the dark, no chalk and got flash pumped, pulled on the peg
HarryB - 2nd dog - 15/Nov/11 with Al
managed to peel off the crux - no harm done - just need not to panic! Lovely climb
evhall - Lead dog - 13/Nov/11 with Fletch
AlistairB - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Andy Janezko, Lisa
Me and The Norfolk Machine rocked up for another crack at Limbo with TNM ready to push E1 lead and show a little less disco leg. To be fair he stormed it, and we took the traverse route at the top of the first pitch to join Suspense and head for the abseil plate as we were climbing on a single 60m rope, and the rockfax P2 4b would have left us too high.
For the follow it was a decent pumpy climb with an excellent crux that's solved with a small left hand side pull. It's difficult to see when you're below the thin ledge when you head out left above the first peg, but you can stretch out to find it. From there you can take your feet left also and almost layback to reach above to a good hold allowing you to gain feet upwards. Easier to do on a second. It would have felt bold on lead, and TNM uused his monkey-like skills to get up without ever finding it. An excellent rest awaits with ambple knee-bar in the small cave to shake out, and then power on.
ashley_sandeman - 2nd β - 20/Aug/11 with Richard Miles
Led first and struggled then seconded, got pumped and messed up crux sequence
mick1jones - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/11 with Rich Rogers
My first E1 lead. Got pumped and took a whipper off the crux wall. This added some excitement to the experience!
Dave Mahon - Lead dog - Aug/11 with Brian Mead
As good fun as last time. Did as one pitch doing a variation, finishing at the belay plate of suspension bridge arete.
Stanners - 2nd rpt - 24/Jul/11 with Jack Bradbrook
Amazingly good climbing! Lots of people think its really pumpy but I reckon as long as you don't dick around placing gear on the steep sections for like half an hour its fine.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Rob Stanfield
I led the second much easier pitch, nothing in comparisson to the first, but a very nice climb.
Stanley - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11 with Robster666
Led P1. Really enjoyable climbing! Rained as I started belaying martin up first pitch though which made the 2nd pitch not very pleasent. Well volunteered mart to lead in the wet.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11 with Martin Stanfield
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Iain Moodie
Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Jun/11
Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/11
4 rests on the rope including 2 lead falls.
Kirill - Lead dog - 02/May/11 with Chris Smith
cem - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Paul Bolton
loved the pocket pulling and got steep quickly. worthy of its 3 stars
stvredmond - Lead - 30/Apr/11 with colin johnson
Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/11
crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/11 with Tomar
Took it direct following the pockets all the way. Best route of the suspension so far.
Vertigo1 - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11
Clay C - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/11 with Louise
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/11
AlexRenshaw - Lead - 13/Mar/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Mar/11
Clay C - 2nd β - 02/Mar/11 with Ross
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/11
Hung around for too long by the peg and got really pumped. Ended up lowering off a sling clove hitched round the small metal stake above the peg.
Clay C - Lead dnf - 17/Feb/11 with Jimmy
Very cold rock. Numb fingers, so downclimbed from traverse to ledge to warm them up, then it went OK.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 08/Feb/11 with Helen S
Really nice route, main issue being is was still in shade so very cold indeed. Needed a lengthy rest on the large ledge to thaw my hands out.
hms - 2nd β - 08/Feb/11 with Brian
LouiseP - 2nd dog - Feb/11 with Clay
alasdair19 - 2011
jonbwoy - 2011
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Nov/10 with Jason Williams
Chris Sansum - 2nd rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Richard Lade
brew_guru - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/10 with alex harper
mark schramm - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with tom m
tommoulds - 2nd β - 10/Oct/10 with Schramm
TDembrey - Lead dnf - 04/Oct/10 with Clay
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10
bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Lisa, Matt Fry
nice climbing up the pocketed groove.
Matt Fry - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Lisa Alhadeff, Andy Janezko
strenuous crux, but some great standupandslap moves... at least, the way i did it, anyway...
sense of drama heightened by the splat of a jumper, followed by sirens and epic recovery operation. not nice.
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 11/Sep/10 with gary burgess
Sgt. Vest - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Rich bennet
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/10 with Becca
Spent ages commiting to the traverse, which felt hard 5b when I did it. Fab route!
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/10 with Tom
Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/10
Hidden - Lead β - 05/Jul/10
Gary P1, Chris P2
Guide book doesn't make it clear that if you take the option of belaying on the left, you aren't in the right position to start P2. After ending up there, we ended up down-climbing to the start of P2, setting up a second belay, then doing P2. Wished we hadn't bothered as P2 was very poor quality compared to P1.
Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Gary Lewin
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with J
Had fallen off the indirect version about 3 years back. . Avoided the little diversion this time - some tough moves going straight up. Great day, if very hot!
AJM - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Simon de Haas
Direct version. Couple of quite hard pulls.
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Andy Morris
Alasdair88 - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/10 with Liz davies
lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Alasdair88
fishinwater - 2nd - 18/May/10 with Barry
another brill route on sunspension like being back in Kalymnos with those pockets.
Dale - Lead O/S - May/10 with johny
Did a direct version that is about E2 5c.
ericinbristol - 2nd β - 16/Apr/10 with Barry Durston
probably the nicest e1 in avon.
shyster boulder - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with alex harper
Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/10
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Mar/10
Hidden - Lead β - 06/Mar/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/10
Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 2010 with frank
Cad Led through in one clean pitch to the belay point (following the pocketed groove throughout). I seconded the climb cleanly before scrambling out to the top of the butress.
fragglerock - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Caedmon Mullin
Chubbard - 2nd rpt - 04/Oct/09 with Derek, J Robinson
have seconded before, but as I couldn't even remember where the route started and went, let alone the moves, it was more similar to onsight. Managed to get lost and cut left to early and went up new beginnings for a bit.
was far too hot, sweated too much. but nice climb.
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Paul
ian d f - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Mark
markfromstoke - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Ian
Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead β - 13/Sep/09 with GF
Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Sep/09
Hanging off one finger trying to get a nut nr. 6 out was a bit time and energy consuming.
Quirina - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/09 with Neil Larsen
Strenuous move out of the scoop. Must stop climbing with a hangover.
ruaidh - 2nd - 05/Sep/09 with Baz
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09
Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/09
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Eric Herring
Greg Pittam - Lead rpt - Jun/09 with Livi
needlefluff - 2nd - Jun/09
Was rather underwhelmed by it - too much vegetation but a reasonable route
Danos - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Andras
cornishben - 2nd rpt - 12/May/09 with Tim Riley
Would have found this a spooky lead, traversing right beneath the groove.
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 12/May/09 with Ben Sutton
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009
best route of its grade in the gorge?
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/08 with Howard
Caspar - 2nd - 14/Sep/08 with Will Goldsmith
scorpia97 - 2nd - 14/Sep/08 with Will Goldsmith
Andrew1 - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Rachel Smith
Luke Marsden - 2nd O/S - Jul/08 with Keith Marsden
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/08
Direct. Good and hard!
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 12/Jun/08 with Will
Best climb i've done in the Gorge, Can't wait to lead it!
Greg Pittam - 2nd β - 12/May/08 with Sam Howel
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/08
The pocket bit was well hard and pumpy, I had to rest on rope.
Feeling bold - 2nd dog - 02/May/08 with Tom Dixon
Pumped right out hanging around on the crux, need to learn to move quicker!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with Maria
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/08
I led pitch 2 (4b) - full of tree and lots of snail, not worth it - took the shine off the route (first pitch brilliant.) Recommend going left to abseil bolt rather than doing the 2nd pitch (both alternatives described in book).
CarolineH - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/08 with Joe
James Marshall - 2nd - 02/Apr/08
schwenk - TR - Apr/08
Will Homoky - 2nd - 29/Mar/08 with Tom Hindson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Dec/07 with Pete
Messners Yeti - 2nd - 25/Nov/07 with George
Al Franks - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/07 with Tom Kett
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/07 with Tom Kett
chris sm - 2nd - 10/Nov/07 with Julie Osborn
Circus - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/07 with Loz
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 27/Oct/07 with Adam
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/07
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/07
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Mario
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07
simonf - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Chris
John Southworth - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Chris Snell
While recovering from virus having eaten v little in 48hs previous. Not v sensible but a good display of energy efficiency under circumstances. Used more than one headjam rest.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Tony Seale
Hidden - Lead - 04/May/07
In one pitch. Got quite pumped on the crux - too much faffing with gear again I expect. Great climb though.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Clare
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07 with Jon Hauser
A coupole of times i think, not sure on dates
Richard Hall - 2007
tonanf - AltLd - Aug/06 with burt
Boxy - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/06
gonggashan - 2nd - Jul/06
JasonG - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Barry Donovan
MikeC59 - Lead - Jul/06
tom.e - 2nd rpt - 24/May/06 with Matt Gordon
Birthday climb! Had to be done with Greg in awe of two giants in the Avon climbing scene...not! Still worthy of the 3***
jon thompson27 - Lead - 05/May/06 with simon mayell
Lev - Lead O/S - 04/May/06 with Emma Ross
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/06
tom.e - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/06 with Charlie Everett
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 08/Apr/06
Bern - 2006
gimmer - 2006
John Lisle - 2006
mike kann - Lead dog - 2006
Marti999 - Lead - 2006
IceMonkey1982 - 2006
RedFox - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Tom K
kyt341k - 2nd dog - Sep/05 with Ben Freidland
Hidden - Lead rpt - Jul/05
Hidden - Lead dog - Jun/05
Bux - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Rupert Bassadone
Month a guess.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Matt Booth
Fat Tim - Lead rpt - 22/May/05 with Nick Ingram
tom.e - Lead RP - 2005
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005
danp - Lead O/S - 2005
The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with David Elder
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/04
furry - Lead O/S - 12/May/04 with Neil
Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04
Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/04
Boxy - Lead rpt - 21/Feb/04
MikeC59 - 2nd - 27/Jun/03
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/03
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/03
Hidden - 2003
KRB - Lead O/S - 05/May/02 with Chris & Martin
Paz - 2nd β - Jul/01 with CC
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/01
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/01
Roget - Lead O/S - 05/May/01 with baccy
cornishben - AltLd O/S - Jan/01 with Jack
Stone Muppet - 2001
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000
Ally Smith - 2000
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
Lead the first pitch. I'd previously done alt leads the other way round.
AndySL - AltLd rpt - 06/Aug/98 with Mark
lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/98
Hidden - Lead - 1998
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 28/Apr/95 with Steve Dean, Kym Martindale
spent all winter dreaming of getting up this. Went quite easy.
colin milton - Lead - 23/Apr/95 with eric milton
lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95
fully tested peg with fall from crux.
colin milton - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/94 with eric milton
chris sm - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/94 with Francis Taylor
jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/94 with FW
mikej - 2nd - 01/May/94 with Nick Salmon
Hidden - AltLd - 1994
OMSKB - Lead O/S - 09/May/93 with Richard Winfield
Hidden - Lead - 20/Mar/93
Budge - Lead O/S - 1992 with Brian Ottewell
Hidden - 2nd - 21/Dec/88
AndyB123 - 2nd O/S - 1988 with Andy E
DDDD - 1987
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily
Pete Nugent - Lead - 01/Oct/85 with Andy Gill
John Marsland - Lead - 01/Sep/85 with Dave Mould and Tony Rex
did both pitches and topped out on to bridge
JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - Jul/85 with Peter Rickard
frank ramsay - Lead - 1985 with paul colback
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 06/Oct/84 with Tim Dunsby
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/84
first E1 lead
AlanLittle - Lead - 30/May/83 with Andy Croft, John Walters
Nigel Bond - 2nd - 10/Oct/82 with Charlie Leverton
Hidden - 2nd - Aug/82
Hidden - 1980
Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Jul/79
Andy Chubb - Lead - 01/May/76 with Pete Coghill
Hidden - 07/Dec/75
Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1974