Limbo*** E1 5b
[Finishing the crux on Limbo, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Immaculate and intricate face climbing up the pockets and grey wall left of the steep black bulges in the middle of the wall. Start on a ledge at the base of the wall beneath the black bulges.
1) 5b, 33m. Climb the left-hand-crack-system to ledges below the black bulges. Move left to the pocket line and climb up past a thread to a peg on the left wall. Make technical moves left, up and back right to the pocket line and continue to a horizontal break. Climb up right to a stance below a corner.
2) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © ROCKFAX

Ed Drummond 1966

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Bristol 1st E1s.

Photo: Finishing the crux on Limbo © Richardlake
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 390 logbooks, and on 33 wishlists.

FlavioL1989 - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/15 with Rob Edwards

ad111 - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/15

tomwright1509 - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/15

mid run fun
Ginger McGrath - Solo rpt - 13/Sep/15

Tim_C7 - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/15 with Luke Williams

Ginger McGrath - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/15 with steve gibbs

steve_gibbs - 2nd rpt - 08/Sep/15 with Graham McGrath

maddy92 - Lead dog - 08/Sep/15 with Connie-Em

Connie-Em - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/15 with David Maddison

A bit tricky in the middle - great exposure
ChrisWills - 2nd - 06/Sep/15

tim.fairhall - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/15 with Sachi

Seconded Tim who made the crux look pretty easy! Great route. Seems easier and more natural to put in a good directional and traverse across to suspense belay than do another pitch up to the main ab point in the middle of the crag
jsmcfarland - 2nd rpt - 27/Aug/15 with Tim

petegunn - Lead - 22/Aug/15 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/15

Fantastic climb with good gear and very technical moves. Absolutely loved it! Crux seems hard no matter what way you do it, that 2 finger pocket is grim. It seems better to just climb up and left to the belay of Suspense etc with some directional runners rather than do the top pitch (I still haven't figured out where that is!?)
jsmcfarland - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/15 with Oli Hawk

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/15

fab climbing
steve phillips - 2nd - 02/Aug/15 with evhall

steve_gibbs - 2nd rpt - 31/Jul/15 with Pauline Picchio

Kept me thinking all the way, excellent.
Nathan Chrismas - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/15 with Lucas F

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/15

steve_gibbs - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/15 with Simon Peacock

SiyP - 2nd dog - 04/Jul/15 with Steve Gibbs

martinlevya82 - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/15

Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/15 with martin Levy

Great climb.
LJKing - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/15 with Paul Clarkson

Gustav - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/15 with Neil

Quality route.
toasted - 2nd - 08/Jun/15 with Tim Larrad

led first pitch
Tom Redmond - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with joe cossey

Repeat ascent after seconding Steve up it last month. Fantastic climbing all the way up. A well protected crux which requires decisive moves as it has some steepness to it. Finished up left as the second pitch looks like it will detract from the fantastic first pitch.
Legs - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/15 with Becky Bagnall, Steve

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/15

emdawes - Lead β - 04/Jun/15 with Paul southgate, alex shaw

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/15

my - 2nd - 11/May/15 with Mike H

Best route I've done in the gorge so far. Great holds (very positive for avon) and really well protected. The crux is ace, and there is a good rest after it. Take plenty of slings to thread round the weird calcite formations.
Richardlake - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with William Lake

will_lake - 2nd O/S - 10/May/15 with Richard Lake

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/15

Dino Dave - 2nd O/S - 04/May/15 with Hugo UBMC

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/15

steve_gibbs - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/15 with Max Coney

Amazing climb - pretty pumpy too,went direct through the pockets (apparently harder) because stepping out to the face seemed bold but i might have been trying to step out at the wrong point? - i reckon its pretty hard and sustained at E1. Did as one long pitch to the belay on the left.
RichyBOYY - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/15 with David Clover

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/15

youwillfindjimbo - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/15

Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 01/Mar/15 with Neil

Felt pretty awesome to get clean! Uncomfortable belay.
thom_jenkinson - Lead - 04/Feb/15 with Duncan

duncanedgley - 2nd - 04/Feb/15 with Thom

steve_gibbs - Lead dog - 25/Jan/15 with George Frisby

George Frisby - 2nd dog - 25/Jan/15 with Steve Gibbs

second E1, nice and technical but still really tiring. Good climb!
Tom Pillow - Lead - 2015 with David Pillow

Rested before and after the traverse onto blank wall. Fantastic day regardless!
thom_jenkinson - Lead dog - 30/Nov/14 with Tom Eldridge, Emily Ford

Really good.
gingernick - Lead O/S - 29/Nov/14 with Dean Jones

Rested on second during first pitch due to nerves, but pulled all the moves. Stupendous finish and awesome hanging belay.
Eagertom - AltLd dog - Nov/14 with Thom Jenkinson

I seconded it couple months earlier
LucasHarazin - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/14 with Jess Broadhurst

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14

Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 16/Sep/14 with Max L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/14

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/14 with Kirsty Kerr

Very pleasant :)
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Shijing Hu

Had alot of fun trying to get a larks foot on the studding.
felixizzy - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Bernard

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Dave Clare, Geoff Pyatt

davidclare - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Geoff Pyatt, Jon Ridley

clams - Lead - Aug/14 with Catherine

CatMc - 2nd - Aug/14 with clams

Dan0Me - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Geoff P

Adam Hill - 17/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/14

alastairbegley - 2nd rpt - 06/Jul/14 with Andrew Twemlow

twem - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Alastair

andy dunn - 2nd - 23/Jun/14 with J

hauled up bits would be a better description than climbed!
Annabel Tall - 2nd - 18/Jun/14 with Barry Donovan

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/14 with J

danJBA - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Matt Roberts

Avon Man - Solo rpt - Jun/14

joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Matt Prince

just one more - Lead - 04/May/14 with lucas

Lead 2nd Pitch.
mattprince - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Joe Doherty

danmullett - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/14

First Gorge E1. Abseiled off in the dark!
Slick - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/14 with Kevin Vans-Colina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

Last route of the day - literally! Helen took a little while to battle to the top and by the time Phil an dI set off to second it must have been after 8pm. Got down from the ab just before 9pm, walked out in the gathering gloom but just about managed not to have to use a head torch! A great route - the pockets look like the kind of stuff in photos from somewhere in Spain and the crux section is superb if polished. Helen finished to the left at the Suspense belay, which added some 5a moves to traverse across. Also seconded Helen up Suspense and Phil up the Earl of Perth.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Helen, Phil

Done in the dark for the second time!
philhilo - 2nd rpt - 13/Apr/14 with Helen E, misha

Excellent! Glad to get round to leading this one. Took a while to commit to crux but nailed it eventually
Cheese Monkey - Lead β - 11/Apr/14 with Stuart I

Stuart William - 2nd β - 11/Apr/14 with Ben D

James S - 2nd - 08/Apr/14 with tom p

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/14

riddle - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/14 with Adam Ryan

Finished at the rock anchor on top of suspense so may not be the true line. Very enjoyable though.
adam 24 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/14 with Roger Hamilton Smith

First clean lead of the route, what a fantastic climb!
alastairbegley - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/14 with Mark Van Rossum

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Tony

An excellent route - bold lead though.
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Martin Haworth

Mackinclimb - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14

James Jackson - 2014

Quite possibly the best climb I've done at Avon. I wouldn't say it's soft for E1, but it's definitely not hard for E1. The line of pockets and the traverses are both stunning. Didn't bother with the crappy looking easy second pitch, climbed straight up then left to the Arete belay. Where's the peg mentioned in the guidebook btw? Didn't find it.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/13 with Mike

Started the traverse too early and wasted all my energy on it !!
Mayaculpa - 2nd dnf - 09/Dec/13 with Peter

kenneM - 2nd - 13/Nov/13 with Mike Dudley

Two large blocks came off in my hand on the easy bit before the ramp resulting in a fall.
squicky - 2nd dog - 19/Oct/13 with John

Pleasure, as always.
Alex Winter - 2nd rpt - 07/Oct/13 with Alex

alexjz - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Alex Winter

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/13

Middle section where you move left out of the pocket line is really enjoyable. Kev did it all in one pitch. Top a bit overgrown.
leigh - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Kev

awesome main pitch, sustained and keeps on giving. top pitch is crap, would be worth 3 stars otherwise
Webster - 2nd - 02/Sep/13

First trad climb I have done in the UK. Great fun.
machine45 - 2nd dog - 02/Sep/13 with Steve Grigg

Fantastic route, possibly best ever. Most pumped I have been on a trad route, felt so good to get clean! Ran it as 1 pitch, shame there isn't a lower off at the top of the 1st pitch as the second is pointless
steve-grigg - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/13

I just managed the tough crux move up to the peg before having to take a short rest. Higher up I lost my bearings and ended up at the left hand ab point. Really nice route but a shame about the poor quality upper pitch.
Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 31/Aug/13 with Martin Haworth

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/13 with J

Got around to leading it, as good as i remembered.
zcsharp - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Jamie Roberts

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

jamestaylor92 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with james slater

Gibbo - Lead dnf - 06/Jul/13 with Ollie Keynes

Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Iggy, Neil

Done as one pitch. Great climb but surprised I made it as I was pumped off my face before I even started. Spent most of the route trying (and failing) to find somewhere to rest and have a cry.
squicky - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Neil, Ben

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/13

aipattison - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with George Evans

georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 31/May/13 with Alex Pattison

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 03/May/13 with George

georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 03/May/13 with Alex Winter

papashango - Lead - 03/May/13 with Jim S, Rob

TDSvejstrup - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/13 with Simon White

amazing route.
SGD - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Andy Clarke

Very good, varied climbing. Did as one pitch, then shuffled over to arete belay. Moves to get from pockets onto face needed a bit of oopmh, then traverse was pleasantly technical contrast.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with SGD

as good as the first time I did it!
Stanners - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Jack Bradbrook

Good climbing, seemed a little different to how I remembered it this time although felt very hard as a warm up with frozen hands.
Quarryboy - 2nd rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Rob Stanfield

Alex_RhodesUK - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Rob Stanfield

Sometime in the naughties.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2013

jcw - 2013

tskelhon - Lead O/S - 2013 with Charlotte

clmacdonald - 2nd - 2013 with tskelhon

alastairbegley - 2nd rpt - 08/Dec/12 with Neil Morbey

First time on lead
HarryB - Lead rpt - 30/Nov/12 with Will A

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Nov/12

one long pitch
Kemics - 2nd rpt - 25/Oct/12 with Enduro Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

Roo took the 5b lead & I had to dog that one but definitely enjoyed it. Very fingery moves. Found the start of the 4b tricky but otherwise an interesting traverse.
irishguyinlondon - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/12 with RooFin

done as one awesome pitch...really cool moves through the pockets and out onto the wall out left.
James S - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/12 with jamie

Very fun and an excellent climb, i want to lead it soon.
zcsharp - 2nd - 12/Sep/12 with James S

Top pitch heavily vegitated
tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Libby

Sat on gear at the crux, great climb
alastairbegley - Lead dog - 03/Sep/12

mattshort - 2nd - 02/Sep/12 with Alan Murray

Led the whole thing in one pitch - rope drag wasn't too bad either. Great route with a nice delicate crux sequence. I didn't think it was very pumpy - not compared to the Earl anyway..
Alan100 - Lead - 02/Sep/12

Solid stuff from James, great effort!
Stanners - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/12 with James Rich

Got to be one of my favourite routes I've climbed so far. Pleased with how smoothly it went especially as I hadn't warmed up beforehand.
JamesRich - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Rob stanfield

First E1 and 4th lead. Led in one pitch, went up right the wrong way, ended up in a vegetated groove finishing at some massive stake at a full rope length. Very scary, felt my balls grow as I powered through the crux traverse. Very pumped on polished crimps so couldn't stop to put gear in and ended up risking massive fall. Solid climb.
Edvenables - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Stephen Venables

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12

eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/12 with DeDe

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/12

Billg - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Rob Mcallister

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12

Lead second pitch.
Kemics - AltLd rpt - 09/Jun/12 with Anthony

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 09/Jun/12

evilweed - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with Tom Prince, Dan

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/12

shoulders - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with rich smith

First E1 :-) Lovely climb, loved it. Found a bit pumpy, but manageable.
pffft - 2nd O/S - 19/May/12 with Monkey

I really enjoyed this. Really nice moves, although quite pumpy (mostly due to faffing with gear on the steep section). Excellent gear.
Monk - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Luke Vincent

Lead the first long pitch, 2nd on the second pitch.
hutchay - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Dave Clover

Excellent and sustained
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Jason

Ground up 3rd go, found it hard for the grade.
Jon Didymus - Lead RP - 11/May/12 with Nick

gb05 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Adam Mackintosh

Mackinclimb - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/12

Ground up. Blew the on-sight due to crappy rope work and a hangover. Mid crux decided to back up the peg, bomber camalot 1 above the peg, clipped under rather than over the double rope causing horrendous rope drag, tried to reverse the crux, got pumped and slumped onto the gear. Swore. Lowered, pulled ropes and climbed clean.
Kemics - Lead - 25/Mar/12 with Katherine

Climbed this with totally different, and better, moves than last time. Tasty crux sequence. Led P2.
katherinesydney - AltLd rpt - 24/Mar/12 with caleb kemics

HarryB - 2nd rpt - 10/Mar/12 with Luca

LJC - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Harry

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Feb/12

misterb - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/12 with tom

Kevster - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with steve read

beardy mike - 2012

peterbeaumont - 2012

peterbeaumont - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/11

Clay C - 2nd rpt - 18/Nov/11 with Will A

Combined with Baby Duck. Fell on traverse as handhold broke off!
cbeard - 2nd - 17/Nov/11 with Will Attridge

in the dark, no chalk and got flash pumped, pulled on the peg
HarryB - 2nd dog - 15/Nov/11 with Al

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Nov/11

AlistairB - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Andy Janezko, Lisa

Me and The Norfolk Machine rocked up for another crack at Limbo with TNM ready to push E1 lead and show a little less disco leg. To be fair he stormed it, and we took the traverse route at the top of the first pitch to join Suspense and head for the abseil plate as we were climbing on a single 60m rope, and the rockfax P2 4b would have left us too high. For the follow it was a decent pumpy climb with an excellent crux that's solved with a small left hand side pull. It's difficult to see when you're below the thin ledge when you head out left above the first peg, but you can stretch out to find it. From there you can take your feet left also and almost layback to reach above to a good hold allowing you to gain feet upwards. Easier to do on a second. It would have felt bold on lead, and TNM uused his monkey-like skills to get up without ever finding it. An excellent rest awaits with ambple knee-bar in the small cave to shake out, and then power on.
ashley_sandeman - 2nd β - 20/Aug/11 with Richard Miles

Led first and struggled then seconded, got pumped and messed up crux sequence
mick1jones - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/11 with Rich Rogers

My first E1 lead. Got pumped and took a whipper off the crux wall. This added some excitement to the experience!
Dave Mahon - Lead dog - Aug/11 with Brian Mead

As good fun as last time. Did as one pitch doing a variation, finishing at the belay plate of suspension bridge arete.
Stanners - 2nd rpt - 24/Jul/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Amazingly good climbing! Lots of people think its really pumpy but I reckon as long as you don't dick around placing gear on the steep sections for like half an hour its fine.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Rob Stanfield

I led the second much easier pitch, nothing in comparisson to the first, but a very nice climb.
Stanley - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11 with Robster666

Led P1. Really enjoyable climbing! Rained as I started belaying martin up first pitch though which made the 2nd pitch not very pleasent. Well volunteered mart to lead in the wet.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11 with Martin Stanfield

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/11

4 rests on the rope including 2 lead falls.
Kirill - Lead dog - 02/May/11 with Chris Smith

cem - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Paul Bolton

CrispsSmiths - 2nd - 02/May/11 with Kirill

loved the pocket pulling and got steep quickly. worthy of its 3 stars
stvredmond - Lead - 30/Apr/11 with colin johnson

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/11

crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/11 with Tomar

Took it direct following the pockets all the way. Best route of the suspension so far.
Tomar - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11

Clay C - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/11 with Louise

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/11

just one more - Lead - 20/Mar/11 with tony l, Svenn G

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 13/Mar/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Mar/11

Clay C - 2nd β - 02/Mar/11 with Ross

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/11

Hung around for too long by the peg and got really pumped. Ended up lowering off a sling clove hitched round the small metal stake above the peg.
Clay C - Lead dnf - 17/Feb/11 with Jimmy

Very cold rock. Numb fingers, so downclimbed from traverse to ledge to warm them up, then it went OK.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 08/Feb/11 with Helen S

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Feb/11

LouiseP - 2nd dog - Feb/11 with Clay

with mich
alasdair19 - 2011

jonbwoy - 2011

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Nov/10 with Jason Williams

Chris Sansum - 2nd rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Richard Lade

brew_guru - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/10 with alex harper

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with tom m

tommoulds - 2nd β - 10/Oct/10 with Schramm

TDembrey - Lead dnf - 04/Oct/10 with Clay

LisaA - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Matt Fry, Andy

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Lisa, Matt Fry

nice climbing up the pocketed groove.
Matt Fry - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Lisa Alhadeff, Andy Janezko

strenuous crux, but some great standupandslap moves... at least, the way i did it, anyway... sense of drama heightened by the splat of a jumper, followed by sirens and epic recovery operation. not nice.
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 11/Sep/10 with gary burgess

Sgt. Vest - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Rich bennet

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/10 with Becca

Spent ages commiting to the traverse, which felt hard 5b when I did it. Fab route!
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/10 with Tom

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Jul/10

Gary P1, Chris P2 Guide book doesn't make it clear that if you take the option of belaying on the left, you aren't in the right position to start P2. After ending up there, we ended up down-climbing to the start of P2, setting up a second belay, then doing P2. Wished we hadn't bothered as P2 was very poor quality compared to P1.
Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Gary Lewin

andy dunn - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with J

Had fallen off the indirect version about 3 years back. . Avoided the little diversion this time - some tough moves going straight up. Great day, if very hot!
AJM - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Simon de Haas

Direct version. Couple of quite hard pulls.
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Andy Morris

Alasdair88 - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/10 with Liz davies

lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Alasdair88

fishinwater - 2nd - 18/May/10 with Barry

another brill route on sunspension like being back in Kalymnos with those pockets.
Dale - Lead O/S - May/10 with johny

Did a direct version that is about E2 5c.
ericinbristol - 2nd β - 16/Apr/10 with Barry Durston

probably the nicest e1 in avon.
shyster boulder - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with alex harper

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/10

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 2010 with frank

Cad Led through in one clean pitch to the belay point (following the pocketed groove throughout). I seconded the climb cleanly before scrambling out to the top of the butress.
fragglerock - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Caedmon Mullin

Chubbard - 2nd rpt - 04/Oct/09 with Derek, J Robinson

have seconded before, but as I couldn't even remember where the route started and went, let alone the moves, it was more similar to onsight. Managed to get lost and cut left to early and went up new beginnings for a bit. was far too hot, sweated too much. but nice climb.
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Paul

ian d f - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Ian

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead β - 13/Sep/09 with GF

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Sep/09

Hanging off one finger trying to get a nut nr. 6 out was a bit time and energy consuming.
Quirina - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/09 with Neil Larsen

Strenuous move out of the scoop. Must stop climbing with a hangover.
ruaidh - 2nd - 05/Sep/09 with Baz

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/09

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Eric Herring

Greg Pittam - Lead rpt - Jun/09 with Livi

needlefluff - 2nd - Jun/09

Was rather underwhelmed by it - too much vegetation but a reasonable route
Danos - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Andras

cornishben - 2nd rpt - 12/May/09 with Tim Riley

Would have found this a spooky lead, traversing right beneath the groove.
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 12/May/09 with Ben Sutton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/09

just one more - Lead - 03/May/09 with Max B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

best route of its grade in the gorge?
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/08 with Howard

just one more - Lead - 19/Oct/08 with tim b, Svenn G

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/08

scorpia97 - 2nd - 14/Sep/08 with Will Goldsmith

Andrew1 - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Rachel Smith

Luke Marsden - 2nd O/S - Jul/08 with Keith Marsden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/08

Direct. Good and hard!
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 12/Jun/08 with Will

Best climb i've done in the Gorge, Can't wait to lead it!
Greg Pittam - 2nd β - 12/May/08 with Sam Howel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/08

The pocket bit was well hard and pumpy, I had to rest on rope.
Feeling bold - 2nd dog - 02/May/08 with Tom Dixon

Pumped right out hanging around on the crux, need to learn to move quicker!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with Maria

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/08

I led pitch 2 (4b) - full of tree and lots of snail, not worth it - took the shine off the route (first pitch brilliant.) Recommend going left to abseil bolt rather than doing the 2nd pitch (both alternatives described in book).
CarolineH - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/08 with Joe

James Marshall - 2nd - 02/Apr/08

schwenk - TR - Apr/08

Will Homoky - 2nd - 29/Mar/08 with Tom Hindson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Dec/07 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Nov/07

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/07 with Tom Kett

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/07 with Tom Kett

chris sm - 2nd - 10/Nov/07 with Julie Osborn

Direct. Nice.
Circus - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/07 with Loz

Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 27/Oct/07 with Adam

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/07

pelvoux - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Mario

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07

simonf - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Chris

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Chris Snell

just one more - Lead - 18/May/07 with rich h

While recovering from virus having eaten v little in 48hs previous. Not v sensible but a good display of energy efficiency under circumstances. Used more than one headjam rest.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Tony Seale

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/07

In one pitch. Got quite pumped on the crux - too much faffing with gear again I expect. Great climb though.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Clare

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07 with Jon Hauser

A coupole of times i think, not sure on dates
Richard Hall - 2007

bullybones - Lead O/S - 2007

tonanf - AltLd - Aug/06 with burt

Boxy - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/06

gonggashan - 2nd - Jul/06

JasonG - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Barry Donovan

MikeC59 - Lead - Jul/06

just one more - Lead - 30/Jun/06 with john smith, Svenn G

tom.e - 2nd rpt - 24/May/06 with Matt Gordon

Birthday climb! Had to be done with Greg in awe of two giants in the Avon climbing scene...not! Still worthy of the 3***
jon thompson27 - Lead - 05/May/06 with simon mayell

Lev - Lead O/S - 04/May/06 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/06

tom.e - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/06 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 08/Apr/06

Bern - 2006

gimmer - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

beardy mike - Lead dog - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

IceMonkey1982 - 2006

RedFox - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Tom K

kyt341k - 2nd dog - Sep/05 with Ben Freidland

Hidden - Lead rpt - Jul/05

Hidden - Lead dog - Jun/05

Bux - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Rupert Bassadone

Month a guess.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Matt Booth

Fat Tim - Lead rpt - 22/May/05 with Nick Ingram

tom.e - Lead RP - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

danp - Lead O/S - 2005

Urgles - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with David Elder

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/04

furry - Lead O/S - 12/May/04 with Neil

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/04

Boxy - Lead rpt - 21/Feb/04

just one more - Lead - 20/Sep/03 with Max B

just one more - Lead - 08/Jul/03 with rich h, Svenn G

MikeC59 - 2nd - 27/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/03

Hidden - 2003

KRB - Lead O/S - 05/May/02 with Chris & Martin

Paz - 2nd β - Jul/01 with CC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/01

Roget - Lead O/S - 05/May/01 with baccy

cornishben - AltLd O/S - Jan/01 with Jack

Stone Muppet - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Horrible and puppy.
alan moore - 2000

serby - Lead - 1999

Lead the first pitch. I'd previously done alt leads the other way round.
AndySL - AltLd rpt - 06/Aug/98 with Mark

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/98

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Hidden - 1998

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 28/Apr/95 with Steve Dean, Kym Martindale

spent all winter dreaming of getting up this. Went quite easy.
colin milton - Lead - 23/Apr/95 with eric milton

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

fully tested peg with fall from crux.
colin milton - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/94 with eric milton

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/94 with Francis Taylor

jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/94 with FW

mikej - 2nd - 01/May/94 with Nick Salmon

Hidden - AltLd - 1994

OMSKB - Lead O/S - 09/May/93 with Richard Winfield

Hidden - Lead - 20/Mar/93

Budge - Lead O/S - 1992 with Brian Ottewell

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Dec/88

AndyB123 - 2nd O/S - 1988 with Andy E

adriandesouza - Lead O/S - May/87

DDDD - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily

led p1
Pete Nugent - Lead - 01/Oct/85 with Andy Gill

John Marsland - Lead - 01/Sep/85 with Dave Mould and Tony Rex

did both pitches and topped out on to bridge
JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - Jul/85 with Peter Rickard

frank ramsay - Lead - 1985 with paul colback

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 06/Oct/84 with Tim Dunsby

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/84

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1984

first E1 lead
AlanLittle - Lead - 30/May/83 with Andy Croft, John Walters

tapley - Lead - 09/Apr/83

Nigel Bond - 2nd - 10/Oct/82 with Charlie Leverton

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/82

Hidden - 1981

Steve Bell - 1980

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Jul/79

D Tempest - AltLd - Jan/77

Andy Chubb - Lead - 01/May/76 with Pete Coghill

Marcus - 07/Dec/75 with Roger Stokes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Bob Peters, JoeE, Richard Justice, LJKing, badgerjockey, hutchay, BicycleBradley, TB30, Rebs, Phoebus, jezb1, Richardlake, Hawkgirl, kenneM, ben.richards, Master Chief, Dean177, Katherine Ross, Ropeboy, mullermn, explodingsprouts, poey50

Total votes cast 270
hard E20 of 94
E20 of 94
easy E20 of 94
hard E19 of 94
E173 of 94
easy E19 of 94
hard HVS3 of 94
HVS0 of 94
easy HVS0 of 94
hard 5c0 of 88
5c0 of 88
easy 5c0 of 88
hard 5b6 of 88
5b72 of 88
easy 5b9 of 88
hard 5a1 of 88
5a0 of 88
easy 5a0 of 88
3 Stars70 of 88
2 Stars15 of 88
1 Star2 of 88
0 Stars1 of 88
Bag of .....0 of 88
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP