UKC

45m.

Rockfax Description
Immaculate and intricate face climbing up the pockets and grey wall left of the black bulges in the middle of the wall. Start on a ledge at the base of the wall beneath the black bulges. Climb the left-hand crack system to ledges below the black bulges. Move left to the pocket line and climb up past a thread to a peg on the left wall. Make technical moves left, up and back right to the pocket line and continue to a horizontal break. Move left and finish up the line of pockets as for Baby Duck/Beginnings. © Rockfax

Ed Drummond 1966.

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Bristol 1st E1s , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff) , Coronation Street , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Avon Gorge Starred E1s , Suspension bridge rockfax integrale , 2020/21 Trips , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Edwin Drummond - Avon Gorge , 2021 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , Avon GORGEous , Cianchi's Hit List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Bartle 5 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There's a nest in the highest hole*, with 3 large pigeon chicks in it. They're quite far back in the hole, but maybe best to avoid the route for a week or two until they've fledged. (*after you return back to the groove from the crux face climbing)
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βeta: There's a nest in the highest hole*, with 3 large pigeon chicks in it. They're quite far back in the hole, but maybe best to avoid the route for a week or two until they've fledged. (*after you return back to the groove from the crux face climbing)
Kiddie68 23 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: High in the grade. Cool head required but utterly rewarding.
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βeta: High in the grade. Cool head required but utterly rewarding.
AlexSavi 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Gardening required on second pitch
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βeta: Gardening required on second pitch
Nickuk 21 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Second pitch is totally vegetated at the top. Traverse to suspense probably preferable
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βeta: Second pitch is totally vegetated at the top. Traverse to suspense probably preferable

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 128
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 118
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Buttress

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))

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