22m. Start below a deep horizontal break at 3m. Fix runners in the break and boldly smear up to a good hold and runner placement. Move up slightly right and climb easy cracks to the top.

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 14/Apr/2002

Mayaculpa 15/Oct TR
with Mike Rotraxion
lakeyross 19/Jul TR O/S

really please i did this one, should have lead it. Its not an E2. more like E1 5b (if smell the grove is E1 5b then there is no way this is E2 5c). we all did it on the top rope, no one fell off or came near to falling off. really really good moves through. would get 2 stars if the route had a harder finish

clipskipper 18/Jul Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 18/Jul Lead O/S
with Scott
Hidden 18/Jul -
Paul Baller 04/Jul Lead G/U
with matt stevens
MoWalker3 02/Jul TR
with Rob
Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
Hugobristol 28/May Lead O/S

One committing move low down, then drops about 5 grades!

with Riccy, Pippa
Hidden 28/May 2nd dog
felixizzy 13/May Lead O/S

One move wonder.

with Mike
Hidden 15/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr 2nd dog
Neil Gay 09/Apr Lead RP
davidclare 07/Apr Lead β
with Tris Vye
Hidden 07/Apr 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 06/Apr Lead G/U

Fell on crux and landed with feet on floor, did it next time so G/U I suppose.

Felix Ottey 22/Mar TR β
Gaz of Bath 05/Feb Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Echna 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 20/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S
ian d f 07/Aug/14 TR O/S
with Steve Needs
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 06/Jul/14 TR O/S
with shunt
Hidden 02/Jul/14 Lead
sjscammell ?/Jul/14 Lead

... about two tricky moves after the initial 'smiley' crack. trust your smearing rubber and balance, often better to have only one foot on rock to get solid smear, and then you're away ...

Gaz of Bath 30/Jun/14 Solo
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Tim Culwick
Pintsize 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Jody Palmer, Will Benfold
bpmclimb 22/Jun/14 TR rpt
with Shunt
will_benfold 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Messed up the crux first time, microwire stopped me decking. Lowered, pulled the ropes, started again and got it clean.

with Jody Palmer, Sarah Woodrow
Adrian Daniels 05/May/14 2nd
with Steve Webster
afrosam 03/May/14 Lead O/S
joeurwin 03/May/14 2nd O/S
with Sam Robinson
wurzelinzummerset 19/Apr/14 TR rpt

Now on my "to do" list for a lead.

with Nick
stoneback 19/Apr/14 TR O/S
with Alan
bpmclimb 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 18/Apr/14 TR rpt
with Shunt
Brian Moseley 13/Apr/14 TR O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd
Tristypants 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Felt the 5c, short-lived scariness

with Bec Chalkley
lazzaw 29/Mar/14 TR O/S

Had a rope up from Lorna's Lunch so seemed rude not to. A bit fingery from the big break for 3m then plain sailing. Well it was on a top rope...

with Jonathan Cook
BenFitzG 16/Mar/14 Lead
NB Pixel 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

A bit delicate as negligible hands for crux- needed my head in gear.

with Tom
Tubs 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Naomi
mikehenesy 24/Nov/13 Lead β

E2? me? Nah. Well Sonia had been up it already, and I knew where the cam needed to go, and it wasn't a very long slide to the deck, and after all since the previous route I'm now a 'slab meister'! Didn't think there was anything that technical though.

with Harriet
sonic46 24/Nov/13 Lead β
Dave Thompson 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
Ali.B 05/Sep/13 TR O/S
with johnevans
johnl 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

You will deck if you fluff the crux - my mate did!

with Adam Perrett, Andy Dunford
Adam Perrett 31/Aug/13 TR O/S
MartinN 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
mick1jones 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Guttridge
chrisallan 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd
sonic46 05/May/13 Lead
carl_123 01/May/13 TR O/S
wurzelinzummerset 01/May/13 TR rpt
with Carl
Pete Rigby 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 27/Apr/13 Lead β
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 19/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Hidden 15/Apr/13 TR
Hidden 15/Apr/13 TR O/S
cornish bird 15/Apr/13 TR O/S
with niels, tom
homing-penguin 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
LukeyG 12/Aug/12 Lead

Awesome 3 moves through crux, e2 5b, you dont want to be falling off, unless your belayer jumps back down the hill!

bpmclimb 03/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Urgles 03/Aug/12 2nd rpt

probably E2 5b

Andy Clarke 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very balancy crux. Teetered up. Thought the grade was probably correct - reckon you'd need to be fairly tall to view this as a "one" move wonder.

with Johnny
bpmclimb 18/Jun/12 Solo rpt
riddle 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
adam 24 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 31/May/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
bpmclimb 21/May/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
Big Lee 20/May/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't manage the low crux. Feet kept slipping no matter how much pressure I seemed to apply.

Rick Ashton 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Nice tricky start. Plain sailing after that

with Robert Drynda
Kayan 06/May/12 Lead rpt
onlyfoddington 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with James H
Kayan 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Brian
Dawlish 21/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Did the crux - got the gear fixed - started up the easy bit and slip'd off!!!!!!

Bristoldave 20/Feb/12 2nd β
with Dawlish, Mark
Hidden ??/2012 TR
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead dog
nick hawkins 14/Oct/11 2nd
jpksalmon 10/Oct/11 TR dog

A few slips but mostly clean. Cloudy.

with Hannah
Hidden 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Gary S 08/Oct/11 TR RP
Hidden ?/Oct/11 TR
kiwi boy 03/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Greasey rock. Fall from 16ft up (sore ankle now) second peice of gear pinged. tough route with scetchy gear. Another day

with dean naylor
crossdressingrodney 10/Jul/11 TR O/S
victim of mathematics 10/Jul/11 TR O/S

Good fun, but a bit of a one-move wonder.

Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Urgles 04/Jun/11 TR
with Mr Shunt
hutchay 31/May/11 Lead O/S

First E2. Bold section near the start with the rest being easy

Hidden 31/May/11 2nd
benkelsey 29/May/11 Lead O/S

E1 5b. only one hard move to the gear then easy crack climbing after that.

Hidden 29/May/11 2nd rpt
will909 21/May/11 Lead rpt
Rowan Mitchell 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Good quality delicate slab route

Christopher Jones 15/May/11 2nd
blum 08/May/11 2nd dog
with Tom Starks
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/11 TR β
bpmclimb 07/Apr/11 TR rpt
with Shunt
will909 01/Apr/11 Lead RP

Found a dmm imp 2 very handy

bpmclimb 28/Mar/11 TR rpt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 27/Mar/11 TR rpt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 31/Jan/11 TR rpt

Low in the grade: just one hard bit, but this is both low down and bold, so probably just E2.

with Shunt
Dan Stel ??/2011 Lead
gilbert 16/Oct/10 TR O/S

Percy led the climb and lowered off. I climbed with a slack top rope and felt cheated that I couldn't claim the 2nd!! Some interesting smearing - interesting...

with Jonathan Percival
nick hawkins 12/Oct/10 Lead β
davenev 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Bold and balancy mid section - finally got to place my very smallest micro wire.....

with luke
Mr Tickle 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with davenev
gripped01 ?/Oct/10 Lead
with Rimon Than
Hidden ?/Oct/10 -
Hidden 19/Sep/10 Lead rpt
timstyles 19/Sep/10 2nd dog

Slid down the slab at the crux, but managed it on the second attempt after finding better foot holds.

with Huw Howells
arandall 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Tom_Harding 29/Aug/10 Lead β

First E2 - 3 move wonder but great route all the same. The micronut gorge is pretty much worked through but i manged to get a wallnut 1/2 and DMM Brass offset 1 to just about hold, wouldent want to test them though. With the ground fall potential and the now worn placment this has to be E2

with Mat
Hidden 15/Aug/10 TR
bpmclimb 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Si dH 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S

2 move wonder but the moves are nice. Didnt see any micros above the break, but crux still probably just about safe without them if your belayer runs away a bit.

with Jim R
Tom F Harding ??/2010 Lead RP
katherinesydney 19/Aug/09 2nd dog
Bobby Gilbert 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S

1 move wonder

andy dunn 09/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Alan
WoD 30/Jul/09 TR O/S

First E2 climb. Very smeary start, but quite an easy top rope

with Sophie
sofe13 30/Jul/09 TR

Hard smeary section in the middle which i cheated on, shoes just wouldn't grip on anything at all.

with Ben
jon thompson27 03/Jul/09 Lead
with simon mayell
Greg Pittam 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Amy Laverock
ClareR 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

First E2! Really a hi ball boulder problem with an HS on top. Micro I found in the gorge was crucial

with Greg
tobydunford 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 2nd dog
deklan 10/May/09 Lead rpt
with dad
AlexD 03/May/09 Solo O/S
trevor macalonan 28/Sep/08 TR O/S
Peter Swift 28/Sep/08 TR O/S

great top rope E2. Lets remember to flash a smile

MarkRyder 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Good climb, straight forward well protected climbing - not E2.

with Lee
upontop 20/Jul/08 TR RP
with Chris
SC 15/Jul/08 2nd β
timharrison 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 23/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Ben1983 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd O/S
cem 27/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Allen, Dan from Stroud
beardy mike ??/2008 -
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
Somerset swede basher 17/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Sarah Stirling
Hidden 17/Sep/07 2nd O/S
John_Hat 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Stevieblue
Hidden 23/Aug/07 Solo rpt
Hidden 13/Aug/07 TR
Matt Tranter 11/Aug/07 Lead
Matt Tranter 17/Jun/07 Lead
with Zelda Greyling
Hidden 01/Jun/07 TR
freelancer_85 06/May/07 Lead O/S

Reasonable micros above the break make the crux much nicer. Possibly take the grade down to E1? Not sure, still wouldn't want to fall off it in the crux though...

with Tom
thomasadixon 06/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/06 TR rpt
bpmclimb 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 22/Aug/06 TR
Hidden 22/Aug/06 TR
BruceW 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Hugh
Hidden 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/May/06 Lead rpt
Paul Robertson 08/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Paddy Wilson
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
KRB 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Bridges
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Paul, Lyneham
JamieAyres 29/May/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 TR RP
Hidden 08/Sep/04 Lead RP
Lev 04/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Claire Curant, James Byrne
chris sm ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/04 TR
petegunn 04/Jul/04 Lead
with Charlotte
Hidden 15/Jun/04 2nd
Hidden 12/Jun/04 -
just one more 12/Jun/04 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
guy xavier percival 06/Jun/04 Solo O/S
with none
Urgles ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
cornishben ?/Jan/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, petecallaghan, Hooo, Hidden, Motown, Hidden, CosmosKey
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 52
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set