Slight of Hand* E2 5c
[The crux on Slight of Hand; E2 5c Fairy Cave Quarry, 2 kb]22m. Start below a deep horizontal break at 3m. Fix runners in the break and boldly smear up to a good hold and runner placement. Move up slightly right and climb easy cracks to the top.
R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 14/Apr/2002

Photo: The crux on Slight of Hand; E2 5c Fairy Cave Quarry © Dawlish
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 210 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

really please i did this one, should have lead it. Its not an E2. more like E1 5b (if smell the grove is E1 5b then there is no way this is E2 5c). we all did it on the top rope, no one fell off or came near to falling off. really really good moves through. would get 2 stars if the route had a harder finish
lakeyross - TR O/S - 19/Jul/15

clipskipper - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Scott

Hidden - 18/Jul/15

Paul Baller - Lead G/U - 04/Jul/15 with matt stevens

MoWalker3 - TR - 02/Jul/15 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/15

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/May/15

One move wonder.
felixizzy - Lead O/S - 13/May/15 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/15

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Apr/15

Neil Gay - Lead RP - 09/Apr/15 with Ben Bird

davidclare - Lead β - 07/Apr/15 with Tris Vye

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/15

Fell on crux and landed with feet on floor, did it next time so G/U I suppose.
Matt Smith - Lead G/U - 06/Apr/15 with Zoe Taylor

Felix Ottey - TR β - 22/Mar/15

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Feb/15

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Sep/14

Echna - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Dalinda, Rich

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/14

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Steve Gibbs

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Jamie Roberts

ian d f - TR O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Steve Needs

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14

MoWalker3 - TR O/S - 06/Jul/14 with shunt

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/14

... about two tricky moves after the initial 'smiley' crack. trust your smearing rubber and balance, often better to have only one foot on rock to get solid smear, and then you're away ...
sjscammell - Lead - Jul/14

Hidden - Solo - 30/Jun/14

will_benfold - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/14 with Tim Culwick

Pintsize - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Jody Palmer, Will Benfold

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Shunt

Messed up the crux first time, microwire stopped me decking. Lowered, pulled the ropes, started again and got it clean.
will_benfold - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Jody Palmer, Sarah Woodrow

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 05/May/14 with Steve Webster

afrosam - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

joeurwin - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Sam Robinson

Now on my "to do" list for a lead.
wurzelinzummerset - TR rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Nick

stoneback - TR O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Alan

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Kirsten

kirsten - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Brian

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 18/Apr/14 with Shunt

Brian Moseley - TR O/S - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/14

Felt the 5c, short-lived scariness
Tristypants - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Bec Chalkley

Had a rope up from Lorna's Lunch so seemed rude not to. A bit fingery from the big break for 3m then plain sailing. Well it was on a top rope...
lazzaw - TR O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Jonathan Cook

Phoebus - Lead - 16/Mar/14

A bit delicate as negligible hands for crux- needed my head in gear.
NB Pixel - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Tom

Tubs - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Naomi

E2? me? Nah. Well Sonia had been up it already, and I knew where the cam needed to go, and it wasn't a very long slide to the deck, and after all since the previous route I'm now a 'slab meister'! Didn't think there was anything that technical though.
mikehenesy - Lead β - 24/Nov/13 with Harriet

sonic46 - Lead β - 24/Nov/13 with Matt Page

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Mark Lee

Ali.B - TR O/S - 05/Sep/13 with johnevans

You will deck if you fluff the crux - my mate did!
johnl - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Adam Perrett, Andy Dunford

Adam Perrett - TR O/S - 31/Aug/13 with John Leonard

MartinN - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Mike Guttridge

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - Solo rpt - 26/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/13

sonic46 - Lead - 05/May/13

carl_123 - TR O/S - 01/May/13

wurzelinzummerset - TR rpt - 01/May/13 with Carl

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - Lead β - 27/Apr/13 with Peter Rigby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 19/Apr/13 with Helen S

Hidden - TR - 15/Apr/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Apr/13

cornish bird - TR O/S - 15/Apr/13 with niels, tom

homing-penguin - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/12

Hidden - Solo rpt - 11/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12

Awesome 3 moves through crux, e2 5b, you dont want to be falling off, unless your belayer jumps back down the hill!
LukeyG - Lead - 12/Aug/12

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/12 with Clare

probably E2 5b
Urgles - 2nd rpt - 03/Aug/12 with bpmclimb

Very balancy crux. Teetered up. Thought the grade was probably correct - reckon you'd need to be fairly tall to view this as a "one" move wonder.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Johnny

bpmclimb - Solo rpt - 18/Jun/12

riddle - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 31/May/12 with Debbie

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 21/May/12 with Shunt

Couldn't manage the low crux. Feet kept slipping no matter how much pressure I seemed to apply.
Big Lee - Lead dnf - 20/May/12 with Laurence King

Nice tricky start. Plain sailing after that
Rick Ashton - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Robert Drynda

Kayan - Lead rpt - 06/May/12 with Rachel leese

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/12

Kayan - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with David Brock

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/12 with Alan

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd dog - 26/Mar/12 with Brian

Did the crux - got the gear fixed - started up the easy bit and slip'd off!!!!!!
Dawlish - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/12 with leadballoon, Bristoldave

Bristoldave - 2nd β - 20/Feb/12 with Dawlish, Mark

Hidden - TR - 2012

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Oct/11

nick hawkins - 2nd - 14/Oct/11

A few slips but mostly clean. Cloudy.
jpksalmon - TR dog - 10/Oct/11 with Hannah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/11

Gary S - TR RP - 08/Oct/11 with Chris Cowdrey

Hidden - TR - Oct/11

Greasey rock. Fall from 16ft up (sore ankle now) second peice of gear pinged. tough route with scetchy gear. Another day
kiwi boy - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/11 with dean naylor

crossdressingrodney - TR O/S - 10/Jul/11 with victim of mathematics

Good fun, but a bit of a one-move wonder.
victim of mathematics - TR O/S - 10/Jul/11 with crossdressingrodney

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

Urgles - TR - 04/Jun/11 with Mr Shunt

First E2. Bold section near the start with the rest being easy
hutchay - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Alex George

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/11

E1 5b. only one hard move to the gear then easy crack climbing after that.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/May/11

will909 - Lead rpt - 21/May/11

Good quality delicate slab route
Rowan Mitchell - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Christopher Jones

Christopher Jones - 2nd - 15/May/11 with Rowan Mitchell

blum - 2nd dog - 08/May/11 with Tom Starks

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - TR β - 07/Apr/11

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 07/Apr/11 with Shunt

Found a dmm imp 2 very handy
will909 - Lead RP - 01/Apr/11

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 28/Mar/11 with Shunt

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 27/Mar/11 with Shunt

Low in the grade: just one hard bit, but this is both low down and bold, so probably just E2.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 31/Jan/11 with Shunt

Dan Stel - Lead - 2011

Percy led the climb and lowered off. I climbed with a slack top rope and felt cheated that I couldn't claim the 2nd!! Some interesting smearing - interesting...
gilbert - TR O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Jonathan Percival

nick hawkins - Lead β - 12/Oct/10

Bold and balancy mid section - finally got to place my very smallest micro wire.....
davenev - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with luke

Mr Tickle - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with davenev

gripped01 - Lead - Oct/10 with Rimon Than

Hidden - Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/10

Slid down the slab at the crux, but managed it on the second attempt after finding better foot holds.
timstyles - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/10 with Huw Howells

arandall - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/10 with remus knowles

First E2 - 3 move wonder but great route all the same. The micronut gorge is pretty much worked through but i manged to get a wallnut 1/2 and DMM Brass offset 1 to just about hold, wouldent want to test them though. With the ground fall potential and the now worn placment this has to be E2
Tom_Harding - Lead β - 29/Aug/10 with Mat

Hidden - TR - 15/Aug/10

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Clare

2 move wonder but the moves are nice. Didnt see any micros above the break, but crux still probably just about safe without them if your belayer runs away a bit.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Jim R

Tom F Harding - Lead RP - 2010

katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 19/Aug/09 with bobby gilbert

1 move wonder
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Katherine Sydney

andy dunn - Lead RP - 09/Aug/09 with Alan

First E2 climb. Very smeary start, but quite an easy top rope
WoD - TR O/S - 30/Jul/09 with Sophie

Hard smeary section in the middle which i cheated on, shoes just wouldn't grip on anything at all.
sofe13 - TR - 30/Jul/09 with Ben

jon thompson27 - Lead - 03/Jul/09 with simon mayell

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Amy Laverock

First E2! Really a hi ball boulder problem with an HS on top. Micro I found in the gorge was crucial
ClareR - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Greg

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Lisa Paling

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/09

deklan - Lead rpt - 10/May/09 with dad

AlexD - Solo O/S - 03/May/09

trevor macalonan - TR O/S - 28/Sep/08 with pete swift

great top rope E2. Lets remember to flash a smile
Peter Swift - TR O/S - 28/Sep/08 with trevor macalonan

Good climb, straight forward well protected climbing - not E2.
MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Lee

upontop - TR RP - 20/Jul/08 with Chris

SC - 2nd β - 15/Jul/08 with mike kann

timharrison - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Matt Perks

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/08 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 05/May/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/08

cem - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/08 with Dave Allen, Dan from Stroud

beardy mike - 2008 with Steve Corner (SC)

petegunn - Lead - 2008

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/07 with Sarah Stirling

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/07

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/07 with Stevieblue

Hidden - Solo rpt - 23/Aug/07

Hidden - TR - 13/Aug/07

Matt Tranter - Lead - 11/Aug/07

Matt Tranter - Lead - 17/Jun/07 with Zelda Greyling

Hidden - TR - 01/Jun/07

Reasonable micros above the break make the crux much nicer. Possibly take the grade down to E1? Not sure, still wouldn't want to fall off it in the crux though...
freelancer_85 - Lead O/S - 06/May/07 with Tom

thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 06/May/07 with freelancer_85

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

Hidden - TR rpt - 03/Oct/06

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06 with Clare

Hidden - TR - 22/Aug/06

Hidden - TR - 22/Aug/06

BruceW - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Hugh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/May/06

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/06 with Paddy Wilson

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 2006

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Chris Davis

KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05 with Chris Bridges

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/05

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Paul, Lyneham

JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 29/May/05 with Nick Ingram

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/05

Hidden - TR RP - 2005

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Sep/04

Lev - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/04 with Claire Curant, James Byrne

chris sm - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Haggis Harris

Hidden - TR - 29/Jul/04

petegunn - Lead - 04/Jul/04 with Charlotte

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/04

Hidden - 12/Jun/04

just one more - Lead - 12/Jun/04 with tim b, Svenn G

guy xavier percival - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/04 with none

Urgles - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Laura

Paz - Lead - May/04 with AS

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hooo, Paul Baller, Motown, CosmosKey

Total votes cast 150
hard E30 of 52
E30 of 52
easy E30 of 52
hard E21 of 52
E222 of 52
easy E218 of 52
hard E110 of 52
E11 of 52
easy E10 of 52
hard 6a0 of 51
6a0 of 51
easy 6a0 of 51
hard 5c1 of 51
5c20 of 51
easy 5c15 of 51
hard 5b13 of 51
5b2 of 51
easy 5b0 of 51
3 Stars0 of 47
2 Stars7 of 47
1 Star31 of 47
0 Stars9 of 47
Bag of .....0 of 47
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP