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Slight of Hand* E2 5c

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[The crux on Slight of Hand; E2 5c Fairy Cave Quarry, 2 kb]22m. Start below a deep horizontal break at 3m. Fix runners in the break and boldly smear up to a good hold and runner placement. Move up slightly right and climb easy cracks to the top.
R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 14/Apr/2002

Photo: The crux on Slight of Hand; E2 5c Fairy Cave Quarry © Dawlish
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 160 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/14

Had a rope up from Lorna's Lunch so seemed rude not to. A bit fingery from the big break for 3m then plain sailing. Well it was on a top rope...
lazzaw - TR O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Jonathan Cook

Phoebus - Lead - 16/Mar/14

A bit delicate as negligible hands for crux- needed my head in gear.
NB Pixel - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Tom

Tubs - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Naomi

E2? me? Nah. Well Sonia had been up it already, and I knew where the cam needed to go, and it wasn't a very long slide to the deck, and after all since the previous route I'm now a 'slab meister'! Didn't think there was anything that technical though.
mikehenesy - Lead β - 24/Nov/13 with Harriet

sonic46 - Lead β - 24/Nov/13 with Matt Page

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Mark Lee

Ali.B - TR O/S - 05/Sep/13 with johnevans

You will deck if you fluff the crux - my mate did!
johnl - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Adam Perrett, Andy Dunford

Adam Perrett - TR O/S - 31/Aug/13 with John Leonard

MartinN - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Mike Guttridge

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - Solo rpt - 26/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/13

Diane - 2nd - 26/May/13 with Andrew Tobin

sonic46 - Lead - 05/May/13

carl_123 - TR O/S - 01/May/13

wurzelinzummerset - TR rpt - 01/May/13 with Carl

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - Lead β - 27/Apr/13 with Peter Rigby

greypoint. Managed to fiddle 2 dubious micros into the worn crack.
hms - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Brian

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 19/Apr/13 with Helen S

Hidden - TR - 15/Apr/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Apr/13

cornish bird - TR O/S - 15/Apr/13 with niels, tom

homing-penguin - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/12

Hidden - Solo rpt - 11/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/12

E2 because a fall through the hard part would probably be a deck out.
JezH - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Ellie

Awesome 3 moves through crux, e2 5b, you dont want to be falling off, unless your belayer jumps back down the hill!
LukeyG - Lead - 12/Aug/12

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/12 with Clare

probably E2 5b
The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 03/Aug/12 with bpmclimb

Very balancy crux. Teetered up. Thought the grade was probably correct - reckon you'd need to be fairly tall to view this as a "one" move wonder.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Johnny

bpmclimb - Solo rpt - 18/Jun/12

riddle - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 31/May/12 with Debbie

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 21/May/12 with Shunt

Couldn't manage the low crux. Feet kept slipping no matter how much pressure I seemed to apply.
Big Lee - Lead dnf - 20/May/12 with Laurence King

Nice tricky start. Plain sailing after that
Rick Ashton - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Robert Drynda

Kayan - Lead rpt - 06/May/12 with Rachel leese

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/12

Kayan - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with David Brock

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/12 with Alan

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd dog - 26/Mar/12 with Brian

Did the crux - got the gear fixed - started up the easy bit and slip'd off!!!!!!
Dawlish - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/12 with leadballoon, Bristoldave

Bristoldave - 2nd β - 20/Feb/12 with Dawlish, Mark

Hidden - TR - 2012

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Oct/11

nick hawkins - 2nd - 14/Oct/11

A few slips but mostly clean. Cloudy.
jpksalmon - TR dog - 10/Oct/11 with Hannah

Mr-Cowdrey - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/11 with Gary Slade

Gary S - TR RP - 08/Oct/11 with Chris Cowdrey

Hidden - TR - Oct/11

Greasey rock. Fall from 16ft up (sore ankle now) second peice of gear pinged. tough route with scetchy gear. Another day
kiwi boy - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/11 with dean naylor

crossdressingrodney - TR O/S - 10/Jul/11 with victim of mathematics

Good fun, but a bit of a one-move wonder.
victim of mathematics - TR O/S - 10/Jul/11 with crossdressingrodney

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Andyh83 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Hannah B

The Pylon King - TR - 04/Jun/11 with Mr Shunt

First E2. Bold section near the start with the rest being easy
hutchay - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Alex George

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/11

E1 5b. only one hard move to the gear then easy crack climbing after that.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/May/11

will909 - Lead rpt - 21/May/11

Good quality delicate slab route
Rowan Mitchell - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Christopher Jones

Christopher Jones - 2nd - 15/May/11 with Rowan Mitchell

blum - 2nd dog - 08/May/11 with Tom Starks

more like e1 5b
evhall - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Fletch

very delicate lower section, the rest pretty straight forward
hms - TR β - 07/Apr/11 with kate, Jenny, Brian

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 07/Apr/11 with Shunt

Found a dmm imp 2 very handy
will909 - Lead RP - 01/Apr/11

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 28/Mar/11 with Shunt

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 27/Mar/11 with Shunt

Low in the grade: just one hard bit, but this is both low down and bold, so probably just E2.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 31/Jan/11 with Shunt

Dan Stel - Lead - 2011

Percy led the climb and lowered off. I climbed with a slack top rope and felt cheated that I couldn't claim the 2nd!! Some interesting smearing - interesting...
gilbert - TR O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Jonathan Percival

nick hawkins - Lead β - 12/Oct/10

Bold and balancy mid section - finally got to place my very smallest micro wire.....
davenev - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with luke

Mr Tickle - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with davenev

gripped01 - Lead - Oct/10 with Rimon Than

Hidden - Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/10

Slid down the slab at the crux, but managed it on the second attempt after finding better foot holds.
timstyles - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/10 with Huw Howells

arandall - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/10 with remus knowles

First E2 - 3 move wonder but great route all the same. The micronut gorge is pretty much worked through but i manged to get a wallnut 1/2 and DMM Brass offset 1 to just about hold, wouldent want to test them though. With the ground fall potential and the now worn placment this has to be E2
Tom_Harding - Lead β - 29/Aug/10 with Mat

Hidden - TR - 15/Aug/10

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Clare

2 move wonder but the moves are nice. Didnt see any micros above the break, but crux still probably just about safe without them if your belayer runs away a bit.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Jim R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 19/Aug/09 with bobby gilbert

1 move wonder
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Katherine Sydney

andy dunn - Lead RP - 09/Aug/09 with Alan

First E2 climb. Very smeary start, but quite an easy top rope
WoD - TR O/S - 30/Jul/09 with Sophie

Hard smeary section in the middle which i cheated on, shoes just wouldn't grip on anything at all.
sofe13 - TR - 30/Jul/09 with Ben

jon thompson27 - Lead - 03/Jul/09 with simon mayell

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Amy Laverock

First E2! Really a hi ball boulder problem with an HS on top. Micro I found in the gorge was crucial
ClareR - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Greg

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Lisa Paling

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/09

deklan - Lead rpt - 10/May/09 with dad

AlexD - Solo O/S - 03/May/09

trevor macalonan - TR O/S - 28/Sep/08 with pete swift

great top rope E2. Lets remember to flash a smile
Peter Swift - TR O/S - 28/Sep/08 with trevor macalonan

Good climb, straight forward well protected climbing - not E2.
MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Lee

upontop - TR RP - 20/Jul/08 with Chris

SC - 2nd β - 15/Jul/08 with mike kann

timharrison - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Matt Perks

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/08 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 05/May/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/08

cem - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/08 with Dave Allen, Dan from Stroud

mike kann - 2008 with Steve Corner (SC)

petegunn - Lead - 2008

ian d f - Lead - 2008

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/07 with Sarah Stirling

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/07

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/07 with Stevieblue

Hidden - Solo rpt - 23/Aug/07

Hidden - TR - 13/Aug/07

Matt Tranter - Lead - 11/Aug/07

Matt Tranter - Lead - 17/Jun/07 with Zelda Greyling

Hidden - TR - 01/Jun/07

Reasonable micros above the break make the crux much nicer. Possibly take the grade down to E1? Not sure, still wouldn't want to fall off it in the crux though...
freelancer_85 - Lead O/S - 06/May/07 with Tom

thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 06/May/07 with freelancer_85

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

Hidden - TR rpt - 03/Oct/06

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06 with Clare

Hidden - TR - 22/Aug/06

Hidden - TR - 22/Aug/06

BruceW - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Hugh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/May/06

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/06 with Paddy Wilson

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 2006

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Chris Davis

KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05 with Chris Bridges

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/05

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Paul, Lyneham

JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 29/May/05 with Nick Ingram

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/05

Hidden - TR RP - 2005

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Sep/04

Lev - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/04 with Claire Curant, James Byrne

chris sm - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Haggis Harris

Hidden - TR - 29/Jul/04

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/04

Hidden - 12/Jun/04

guy xavier percival - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/04 with none

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Laura

Paz - Lead - May/04 with AS

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, CosmosKey

Voting
Total votes cast 126
hard E30 of 44
E30 of 44
easy E30 of 44
hard E21 of 44
E218 of 44
easy E216 of 44
hard E19 of 44
E10 of 44
easy E10 of 44
hard 6a0 of 43
6a0 of 43
easy 6a0 of 43
hard 5c1 of 43
5c13 of 43
easy 5c15 of 43
hard 5b13 of 43
5b1 of 43
easy 5b0 of 43
3 Stars0 of 39
2 Stars6 of 39
1 Star24 of 39
0 Stars9 of 39
Bag of .....0 of 39
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Style of ascent

Soloed6 of 160 (3.8%)
Lead83 of 160 (51.9%)
Followed33 of 160 (20.6%)
Toproped35 of 160 (21.9%)
Unknown3 of 160 (1.9%)

'Climbed'32 of 160 (20.0%)
clean O/S79 of 160 (49.4%)
clean β8 of 160 (5.0%)
clean rpt26 of 160 (16.2%)
clean RP6 of 160 (3.8%)
dogged7 of 160 (4.4%)
dnf2 of 160 (1.2%)