15m. Really a VS 5a. Easy climbing to a well protected offwidth. Friend 4 very handy. Variety of methods available including laybacking, jamming and cunning.

2 options at start - either take the corner crack lines on the opposite side of the pillar to cathy, or head directly up the face of the pillar to reach the ledge before the off width - which is a considerably more satisfying approach.

J. Rice 1972

Ticklists: Scottish Central Belt HVS.


ClimberDateStyle
Potsy 24/Aug 2nd

JMCS meet, 2nd for Bryan

EmmaAtkinson 17/Aug 2nd dog
with Rory Brown
Hidden 17/Aug Lead
mikewilson789 08/Aug 2nd β
with iain Robertson
Hidden 19/Jul 2nd rpt
mot1 08/Jun Lead G/U
Andy Hewison 08/Jun 2nd
with Tom
Hidden 11/May 2nd dog
JosefGoeth 30/Apr Lead O/S
Oliver Smaje 25/Mar Lead β
with Sam
Angus Rankin 12/Mar Lead O/S
with George
Hidden 23/Sep/15 Lead
waynem1985 ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/15 Lead
JonnoP 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Rick H
MightyStew 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S
sebbi30 15/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Mike-W-99 26/May/15 Lead rpt
with Fiona
Fiona Reid 26/May/15 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 25/May/15 2nd
CaelanB 24/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Rollo Rolo 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Pun, Piotrek
Hidden 21/Apr/15 2nd
dmacmorris 10/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Was a shame that it had to many ways to climb it avoiding fist/off width jamming. Didn't have a big enough cam to project in crack so runout was interesting.

Kevin Woods 10/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Nice!

sergiorast ??/2015 -
Maria Bechaalani 08/Nov/14 Lead
with Ali Hodnett
Hidden 15/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Freddie 1 11/Oct/14 2nd
with Andyh83
Freddie 1 11/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Lead immediately after following Andy up it.

with Andyh83
stuart34 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Shout
Iain2754 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Allan
ClimbingGlen 29/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Agnieszka 29/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Glen
warrygallace ?/Apr/14 2nd
with Ian
darunniff ?/Apr/14 Lead
with Ali Hodett
ClimbingGlen 21/Jul/13 Lead RP

Nice climb, loose block before the pillar ledge. Bold top moves unless you have some huge cams!

with Teresa Torrents
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
jamesgr87 30/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tim
Fiona Reid 28/May/13 2nd
with Mike
Mike-W-99 28/May/13 Lead rpt
with Fiona
Gabe Oliver 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S

mild for HVS

Fiona Reid 28/Aug/12 2nd
with Mike
Mike-W-99 28/Aug/12 Lead dog

Not as hard as I remember it. Should have got it clean, one poor foot placement just before finishing the layback and I was off. Straight back up cleanly.

with Fiona
Hidden 02/Aug/12 2nd O/S
oliverk 24/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/12 2nd dog
johannes 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Much easier than I anticipated (easier than heathy imo) and not that much off-width technique required after all. Rock quality somewhat worrying, ran it out on some of the easy sections because I did not really want to place anything behind all those dodgy blocks.

allyrocke 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
ClimbingGlen 28/Sep/11 TR O/S
David Stevens 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Reuben Crook, Andy Thompson
Plungeman 07/Jul/11 2nd β

Looks like the bottom part of the layback has come off recently - I'd like to see a frontal photo to be sure though!

libby.southgate 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Jonnie Williams
Hidden 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S
KeithAlexander 30/May/11 2nd rpt
with MarkA
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead β
Hidden 19/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
alanswalker 21/Sep/10 TR
Craig Geddes 09/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Hamish McTrusty
Mark Bull 17/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Mike
Hidden 13/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Stephen18 07/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/10 Lead O/S
KeithAlexander 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S

one day this will fall down, so I'm glad I've done it.

GraemeDiack 04/Jul/10 2nd β

Nice bold layback section. Doubt the pillar is going to be there much longer though!

Hidden 30/Jun/10 TR O/S
abbeywall 30/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Fiona Reid 29/Jun/10 Lead

Finally! it's taken 3 attempts to get up this. Laybacked up the crack with a pull and rockover onto the face holds.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 29/Jun/10 2nd
with Fiona
robertmichaeladams 19/May/10 2nd
with Tom
tomdude 19/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob
robertmichaeladams 20/Apr/10 2nd
with Dan
Hidden 20/Apr/10 Lead
ianmckenzi 07/Apr/10 2nd
mastiffmat ?/Apr/10 -
Dr Toph 28/Oct/09 Solo O/S

Offwidth is pleasantly thrutchy and thought-provoking~!

jamiefoxen 20/Sep/09 Lead β

easy except off width crux as i had no big cam. protection below off width good but would lead to hitting protruding rock below. some higher micro protection far left on pillar face.

Fiona Reid 25/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Got a bit further. Tried the face holds again, no joy. Lay-backing seems to be the answer but I need to work out how to get into the crack...removed a large amount of skin thanks to the rope getting in the way...maybe next time.

with Mike
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/09 -
gregoldridge 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Didn't have any gear big enough to fit the off-width so it was scary!

with Andy
kdlauder 18/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Andy Galbraith
Fiona Reid 12/May/09 Lead dnf

Multiple attempts to get into offwidth, almost made it once. Either need bigger arms or smaller knees....

with Mike
Neil Mackenzie 26/Apr/09 Lead dnf

very perplexing! think i knew what to do but didnt have the balls to go for it without a large cam... we all had a look at the crux then i downclimbed removing gear. will be back with a freind 4 or 5!

with Mo & Reini
barney_edin 22/Mar/09 Lead
with Roz
Mark_Fisher ??/2009 -
with Neil kerr
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 05/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/08 2nd O/S
squidgebob ?/Nov/08 Solo O/S
with jamie, Dave
Peter Rhodes 26/Oct/08 2nd rpt

Dogged previously

with David Charlton
Hidden 14/Oct/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd dog
mcrobb ?/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 21/Jul/08 2nd O/S
D.Russell 21/Jul/08 Lead
with Adam
mhowie 01/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Niall
Hidden 20/Jun/08 TR O/S
jonnie3430 23/May/08 Lead rpt
with Sian, Tom and Neil
SianR 22/May/08 2nd
with Jonnie
thomasaneurinsmith 22/May/08 2nd
with Neil Redgrave
beegsyboy 11/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Took a wee while and a lot of chalk to commit to the crux - pulling hard while jamming your foot into the offwidth. Just kept staring at the under-cammed big cam! Glad I got it.

with Sandy + Andy
andymoin 11/Apr/08 2nd rpt
with sandy, Tim Cross
leighncsontos 09/Mar/08 2nd
with R0bbie
R0bbie 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S
jess ??/2008 Lead O/S
with whitey
jamestheyip ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Luke
whistler 12/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Gus
Matt crawford 23/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Great climb! Size 4 frinend would have been very useful to protect crux.

Hidden 11/Sep/07 2nd O/S
wileejoe ?/Jul/07 Lead
with Al, Archie, Ally
gaz.marshall 21/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jones
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Sean Bell 23/Oct/06 2nd
with Andy
andymoin 23/Oct/06 Lead

Fell out the off windth, onto a very overcamed no 4(bring a 5 if u wana feel safe). Easy climbing before and after the OW... Ground up not clean.

with Sean
LittleLuka 18/Sep/06 Lead RP
latitude 20/Jul/06 Lead
with Barbara Tregidgo
theflyingpaddy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
sea_lene ??/2006 -
jazzyjackson 01/Aug/05 Lead O/S

First time I did the crux on face holds. Second time I did the layback which was quite slippy.

with Tully
Roch 03/Apr/05 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/03 2nd
220bpm 01/Aug/03 Lead O/S
snowboarder 01/Aug/03 2nd
with Mark
Hidden 13/Apr/03 -
beermonkey ??/2002 -
with alan
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Captain Solo ??/2002 2nd
with Michael
BRUCESTRAC ??/2001 -
Scottish78 01/Jun/98 -
IanMcC ??/1998 -
greenroom ??/1997 -
Hidden ??/1996 Solo O/S
TobyA 24/May/95 Lead O/S
with Ed
Ian Jones ?/May/95 Solo
with solo
Yourlead 10/May/92 Lead dnf
with Helen Penny, Doug Rennie, Mike Assenti
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, David Woods, MightyStew, gurumed, Jon_dL
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set