Broken Pillar* HVS 5a
[Broken Pillar, 3 kb]15m. Really a VS 5a. Easy climbing to a well protected offwidth. Friend 4 very handy. Variety of methods available including laybacking, jamming and cunning. 2 options at start - either take the corner crack lines on the opposite side of the pillar to cathy, or head directly up the face of the pillar to reach the ledge before the off width - which is a considerably more satisfying approach.
J. Rice 1972

Ticklists: Scottish Central Belt HVS.

Photo: Broken Pillar © camw
View all 2 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 112 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Maria Bechaalani - Lead - 08/Nov/14 with Ali Hodnett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/14

Freddie 1 - 2nd - 11/Oct/14 with Andyh83

Lead immediately after following Andy up it.
Freddie 1 - Lead rpt - 11/Oct/14 with Andyh83

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Shout

Iain2754 - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Allan

ClimbingGlen - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/14 with Agnieszka

Agnieszka - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/14 with Glen

warrygallace - 2nd - Apr/14 with Ian

Nice climb, loose block before the pillar ledge. Bold top moves unless you have some huge cams!
ClimbingGlen - Lead RP - 21/Jul/13 with Teresa Torrents

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/13

Fiona Reid - 2nd - 28/May/13 with Mike

prog99 - Lead rpt - 28/May/13 with Fiona

mild for HVS
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12

Fiona Reid - 2nd - 28/Aug/12 with Mike

Not as hard as I remember it. Should have got it clean, one poor foot placement just before finishing the layback and I was off. Straight back up cleanly.
prog99 - Lead dog - 28/Aug/12 with Fiona

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/12

oliverk - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/12 with Sarah Moorhouse

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Apr/12

Much easier than I anticipated (easier than heathy imo) and not that much off-width technique required after all. Rock quality somewhat worrying, ran it out on some of the easy sections because I did not really want to place anything behind all those dodgy blocks.
johannes - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/12

allyrocke - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11 with Tom Eadington

ClimbingGlen - TR O/S - 28/Sep/11

David Stevens - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Reuben Crook, Andy Thompson

Looks like the bottom part of the layback has come off recently - I'd like to see a frontal photo to be sure though!
Thoms6974 - 2nd β - 07/Jul/11 with Reuben, Dave S

LibS - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/11 with Jonnie Williams

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/11

KeithAlexander - 2nd rpt - 30/May/11 with MarkA

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2011

alanswalker - TR - 21/Sep/10

Craig Geddes - Lead dog - 09/Sep/10 with Hamish McTrusty

Mark Bull - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/10 with Mike

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/10

Stephen18 - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/10

one day this will fall down, so I'm glad I've done it.
KeithAlexander - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with karinh, Graeme Diack

Nice bold layback section. Doubt the pillar is going to be there much longer though!
GraemeDiack - 2nd β - 04/Jul/10 with Karin Helwig, Keith Alexander

Hidden - TR O/S - 30/Jun/10

abbeywall - 2nd - 30/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/10

Finally! it's taken 3 attempts to get up this. Laybacked up the crack with a pull and rockover onto the face holds.
Fiona Reid - Lead - 29/Jun/10 with Mike

prog99 - 2nd - 29/Jun/10 with Fiona

robertmichaeladams - 2nd - 19/May/10 with Tom

tomdude - Lead O/S - 19/May/10 with rob

robertmichaeladams - 2nd - 20/Apr/10 with Dan

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/10

ianmckenzi - 2nd - 07/Apr/10

mastiffmat - Apr/10

Offwidth is pleasantly thrutchy and thought-provoking~!
Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 28/Oct/09

easy except off width crux as i had no big cam. protection below off width good but would lead to hitting protruding rock below. some higher micro protection far left on pillar face.
jamiefoxen - Lead β - 20/Sep/09

Got a bit further. Tried the face holds again, no joy. Lay-backing seems to be the answer but I need to work out how to get into the crack...removed a large amount of skin thanks to the rope getting in the way...maybe next time.
Fiona Reid - Lead dnf - 25/Aug/09 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09

Hidden - 05/Jul/09

Didn't have any gear big enough to fit the off-width so it was scary!
gregoldridge - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Andy

kdlauder - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/09 with Andy Galbraith

Multiple attempts to get into offwidth, almost made it once. Either need bigger arms or smaller knees....
Fiona Reid - Lead dnf - 12/May/09 with Mike

very perplexing! think i knew what to do but didnt have the balls to go for it without a large cam... we all had a look at the crux then i downclimbed removing gear. will be back with a freind 4 or 5!
Neil Mackenzie - Lead dnf - 26/Apr/09 with Mo & Reini

barney_edin - Lead - 22/Mar/09 with Roz

Mark_Fisher - 2009 with Neil kerr

Hidden - 2nd - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/08

an excellent route with a thoroughly perplexing crux move.
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 05/Nov/08 with Dave Spencer

squidgebob - Solo O/S - Nov/08 with jamie, Dave

Dogged previously
Peter Rhodes - 2nd rpt - 26/Oct/08 with David Charlton

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Sep/08

mcrobb - 2nd - Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jul/08

mhowie - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/08 with Niall

Hidden - TR O/S - 20/Jun/08

jonnie3430 - Lead rpt - 23/May/08 with Sian, Tom and Neil

SianR - 2nd - 22/May/08 with Jonnie

thomasaneurinsmith - 2nd - 22/May/08 with Neil Redgrave

Took a wee while and a lot of chalk to commit to the crux - pulling hard while jamming your foot into the offwidth. Just kept staring at the under-cammed big cam! Glad I got it.
beegsyboy - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/08 with Sandy + Andy

andymoin - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/08 with sandy, Tim Cross

leighncsontos - 2nd - 09/Mar/08 with R0bbie

R0bbie - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Leighn Chambers

jess - Lead O/S - 2008 with whitey

jamestheyip - Lead O/S - 2008 with Luke

whistler - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/07 with Gus

Great climb! Size 4 frinend would have been very useful to protect crux.
Matt crawford - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/07

wileejoe - Lead - Jul/07 with Al, Archie, Ally

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 21/May/07 with Jones

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Sean Bell - 2nd - 23/Oct/06 with Andy

Fell out the off windth, onto a very overcamed no 4(bring a 5 if u wana feel safe). Easy climbing before and after the OW... Ground up not clean.
andymoin - Lead - 23/Oct/06 with Sean

LittleLuka - Lead RP - 18/Sep/06

latitude - Lead - 20/Jul/06 with Barbara Tregidgo

theflyingpaddy - 2006

Hidden - 2006

First time I did the crux on face holds. Second time I did the layback which was quite slippy.
jazzyjackson - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/05 with Tully

Roch - 2nd - 03/Apr/05

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/04

Hidden - Lead - Sep/04

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/03

220bpm - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/03 with Snowboarder

snowboarder - 2nd - 01/Aug/03 with Mark

easers - 13/Apr/03

beermonkey - 2002 with alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2002

Captain Solo - 2nd - 2002 with Michael

BRUCESTRAC - 2001

Scottish78 - 01/Jun/98

greenroom - 1997

Hidden - Solo O/S - 1996

TobyA - Lead O/S - 24/May/95 with Ed

Ian Jones - Solo - May/95 with solo

Yourlead - Lead dnf - 10/May/92 with Helen Penny, Doug Rennie, Mike Assenti

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gurumed, JonmapDL

Voting
Total votes cast 51
hard E10 of 17
E10 of 17
easy E10 of 17
hard HVS0 of 17
HVS9 of 17
easy HVS4 of 17
hard VS3 of 17
VS1 of 17
easy VS0 of 17
hard 5b0 of 17
5b0 of 17
easy 5b1 of 17
hard 5a2 of 17
5a11 of 17
easy 5a1 of 17
hard 4c1 of 17
4c1 of 17
easy 4c0 of 17
3 Stars0 of 17
2 Stars5 of 17
1 Star11 of 17
0 Stars1 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf