Johnny's Dangler* E1 5b
[Mark dangling on "Johnny's Dangler" a classic highball V1., 2 kb]12m. A V1 boulder problem if you use a crash pad. Strenuous. May 2010 - the block that forms the undercut hold is now moving, but appears to be wedged in place by the block above it. Just be careful how you use it!

Photo: Mark dangling on "Johnny's Dangler" a classic highball V1. © Tris Fox
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This climb is in 126 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Gear was pre-placed.
LiamJC - Lead RP - 28/Sep/14 with Marcus Mclernon, Scott Mearns

fireloveswater - Lead RP - 28/Sep/14 with Scott Mearns, Liam Christie

First trad fall, couldn't climb through the notch.
LiamJC - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/14 with Marcus Mclernon, Scott Mearns

Managed to get my hands up and onto the slab in the middle but didn't have the confidence to pull up and felt too off balance to put more gear in. Definitely want to go back and finish it.
fireloveswater - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/14 with Scott Mearns, Liam Christie

malone - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/14 with tom shaw

Need to go back and suss it out!
Lamb - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/14 with Findlay Cranston

stefelafel - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Alison, Rach, scatface

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/May/14

Not in the best style but got there in the end! Enjoyable thuggery!
MrRiley - Lead RP - 17/May/14 with Richard Hines

Rickrick - 2nd - 17/May/14

I'm sure that it was fate that I would dangle around on this route a few times!
JonnyCrimper - Lead RP - 28/Feb/14 with Ben

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Feb/14

adw07 - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Tom Jumar

Thoms6974 - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/13 with Stuart

First attempt at leading E1 = great success
StuMsg - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/13 with Andy T

danimal88 - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/13

Fluffed the O/S about 2 moves in! Silly.
Callum_Johnson - Solo β - 28/May/13 with Uisdean

rcollins - 2nd - 25/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/13

malone - 2nd - 24/May/13 with Andrew Appleby

Hamfunk - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/13 with Colin McK, Keith, Stuart C

colinmckay8 - 2nd - 23/Apr/13 with stuc, kdlauder, Hamish

scotclimb - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Dave Strang

peter.herd - Lead - 16/Apr/13 with Ali Baxter, Rory Brown

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/13

herman0055 - Lead - 04/Apr/13 with John

Fell on first attempt. lead again yo yo style. I blame the hangover.
scatface - Lead RP - 11/Nov/12 with pepette

david0811 - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/12 with debbie, Dave Riley

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Jul/12

Chris wilson - Lead - 24/Jul/12 with Michael

eddiealaszewski - Lead RP - Jun/12

Pete Barker - 2nd - 23/May/12 with Sandy

mrbird - 2nd - 2012

Tobes - 2nd - 07/Sep/11 with Ed

E1 5c from me but reading other peoples comments there should be some undercut jug somewhere...
henwardian - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/11

cuthill76 - Lead - 24/May/11

Chris L Hill - Lead β - 24/May/11 with Simon Pearce

Easy if you find the secret hold!
geoff.comley - Solo O/S - 18/May/11

So short it seemed easier to solo than spending time hanging around on one arm trying to place gear.
climberuk - Solo RP - 14/May/11 with Niall

Hidden - Solo rpt - 06/Apr/11

Hidden - TR rpt - 29/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/11

Incredibly pumpy considering there's only 3-4 metres of E1 climbing.
stephenmckenzie - Lead dog - 28/Oct/10 with Emma Grant, Iain Munro

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Oct/10

Hidden - TR RP - 03/Aug/10

hwackerhage - 03/Aug/10

eddiealaszewski - AltLd - Aug/10 with James Hirst

Damned hard work!
eddiealaszewski - AltLd dog - Jul/10 with James Hirst

thomas m - Sent x - 27/Jun/10 with Dad

Chris wilson - 2nd - 03/Jun/10 with Jon B

stuc - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/10 with hamfunk

Hidden - TR dnf - 20/May/10

Hidden - TR dnf - 20/May/10

Hidden - TR dnf - 20/May/10

Stuart S - Lead rpt - 12/May/10 with Amanda Lyons

mmm jams
danimal88 - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

hwackerhage - 29/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/10

kdlauder - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with james

Used a mat, so V2.
t_stork - Solo rpt - 09/Mar/10

Hidden - Sent - 2010

stuartmunn - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/09 with Brad

Short and powerful! More like a boulder problem.
bnewman - Lead β - 15/Sep/09 with Stuart

really wanted to finish this but got dark!! :( finally found a good hold-undercut jug :) will get it next time :)
rustyclimber91 - Lead dnf - 07/Sep/09 with chris

PMCV - Solo - 25/Aug/09

gforce - Solo - 05/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 23/Jun/09

sebrider - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/09

Chris wilson - 2nd - 12/Jun/09 with Seb

Pleased with this as managed to do it gracefully this time rather than scrambling up it like a kitten having a seizure.
Smeggles - Lead rpt - 23/May/09 with Andy Green and Mark

mzchambers - Solo O/S - 13/May/09 with Joe

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/May/09

jored - Lead - May/09 with Evan

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Apr/09

Hamfunk - Lead RP - 15/Apr/09 with Andy

First E1 grade as a second, great wee pull over the crux.
Bapetheed - 2nd - 14/Apr/09 with John T

Thank god I never have to do this again
Smeggles - Lead RP - 07/Apr/09 with Shane

ShaneHoubart - Lead - Apr/09

Hidden - Solo - 09/Mar/09

ashknot - Solo RP - 21/Feb/09 with Meg

Came down off the top and twisted my ankle, just need to get some balls and top out!
Smeggles - Solo dnf - 21/Feb/09 with Ashley

horrible route
whistler - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/08 with Gus

Dangerous Dave - Solo rpt - 13/Aug/08

whistler - 2nd rpt - 08/Aug/08 with Anna

Diane Lowe - Lead RP - 02/Aug/08 with Neil Shepherd

A boulder problem if you use a crash mat instead of roping up. Strenuous.
Richard_Lowe - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/08 with James Woodley

Lordcarr - Solo RP - 27/Jun/08 with Megan,Neil,James Wildcountry

Richard_Lowe - TR β - 31/May/08

Richard_Lowe - Lead dnf - 31/May/08 with Bob Elder

had to hang on the rope due to henning putting the cam in as far as possable!!!
mulletcocktail2000 - 2nd dog - 29/May/08 with henning

Dirk Wallis - Lead dog - 29/May/08 with Chris Hill

Repeat. The undercut is now a tiny two finger pocket.
hwackerhage - Lead - 29/May/08 with Ryan Slater

Neilm18 - Solo β - 25/May/08

Hidden - Solo rpt - 25/May/08

Hidden - Solo rpt - 24/May/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/May/08

magic_mice - Solo RP - 12/May/08 with Michael Mcghie, Mark Mosgrove, Stuart Kennedy

michael83 - Solo O/S - 12/May/08 with Caroline, Mark and Stuart

Paulww - 2nd - 06/May/08 with hwackerhage

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Bruce A Strachan

smac - 2008

Chris L Hill - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Dirk Wallis

whistler - 2nd - Jul/07 with Dan Simmons

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/07

Finally discovered that crucial undercut!
hwackerhage - 25/May/07 with JohnnyT and Kirsten

tattoo2005 - TR - 24/May/07 with Henning

Hidden - Solo rpt - 08/Apr/07

Stuart S - Solo - 08/Apr/07 with Amanda Lyons

Stuart S - 2nd - 23/Jul/06 with Amanda Lyons

Hidden - Lead β - 23/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jul/06

Stuart S - Lead - 18/Jul/06 with Amanda Lyons

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jul/06

Smelly Fox - Solo G/U - 17/Jul/06

s kennedy - Lead - 17/Jul/06

James Prowse - 2nd - 2005 with Matt Farris

Nae mat, if that is significant
dave o - Solo O/S - 05/May/03

Stuart S - Solo rpt - 04/Jun/02 with Diane Giulianotti

Stuart S - Solo rpt - 24/Jul/01



Jon Read - Lead O/S - May/96 with Stuart Stronach

Yourlead - 2nd - 15/Jun/91 with Graham Penny

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/90

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
bawbag, telemarker

Total votes cast 52
hard E20 of 18
E20 of 18
easy E20 of 18
hard E110 of 18
E17 of 18
easy E11 of 18
hard HVS0 of 18
HVS0 of 18
easy HVS0 of 18
hard 5c0 of 18
5c0 of 18
easy 5c4 of 18
hard 5b5 of 18
5b8 of 18
easy 5b1 of 18
hard 5a0 of 18
5a0 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
3 Stars0 of 16
2 Stars4 of 16
1 Star12 of 16
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Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean G/U
Clean RP