Rockfax Description
A tough aid route. Despite some claims, it hasn't really been free climbed yet. The bolts may be in a poor state of repair.
1) A3, 15m. Start up an expanding flake. Then climb the rurp/birdbeak crack, in black rock, to a bolt belay by 'the Ear'.
2) A2, 25m. Start up loose flakes then follow the crack above to a bolt belay on a small ledge.
3) A2, 45m. Aid climb the broken rock above, using skyhooks and bashies, to reach the final crack. Up this to a bolt belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
85m. A tough aid route, the first on this part of the wall. Despite some claims, it hasn't really been free climbed!
1) A3, 15m. Start up an expanding flake, continue up the rurp/bird beak crack splitting the black rock to a bolt belay by The Ear.
2) A2+, 25m. Start up loose flakes then follow the crack above to a bolt belay on a small ledge.
3) A2+, 45m. Aid climb the broken rock above, using skyhooks and bashies to reach the final crack. Up this to a bolt belay.
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