UKC

Restricted Access

Access to this crag has a long history due to issues between the landowner and climbers. It is now designated as Open Access land under the CRoW Act and climbers have a statutory right of access. Climbers are asked to use the requested access route, and adhere to the following guidelines:

  • Please do not damage the fencing - use the stiles
  • No dogs
  • No defecation in the crag area
  • No wire brushing

The prominent ‘Sugarloaf’ boulder (western end) is not on Open Access land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 5 April to 23 May

Reason: Other Conservation

The landowner's have the right to restrict access for 28 days/year for land management purposes. It is their responsibility to manage restrictions and notification should be errected at the main access point.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 17/02/2014  

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A poor problem above an undesirable landing, starting on a block in the cavern. Use jugs to gain the large shelf, hand traverse this to the arête and a high, juggy finish.

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High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
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Route of Interest
The Gripping Groove

Grade: f5+ ***
(Caley Crags)

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