The unsound block on Pitch one was proven to be so and is no more. The route still climbable of course but maybe a little more sustained and perhaps technically harder.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

tim.fairhall 01/Sep AltLd O/S


with Sachi
jsmcfarland 01/Sep AltLd O/S

In a word - Incredible. Best E2 I've ever done by miles. Routefinding is tricky on P1, as someone else has noted below, follow the left-hand of the two crack systems in the centre of the wall, not the one that goes directly through the overhang above the belay ledge. Tim did a brilliant lead on P1 - very thin, hard to read delicate moves with mostly good gear. I followed ok but was expecting my feet to slip off at any moment for some of it. The crux felt hard 5c. Total relief to make it to the belay ledge. I led P2 which is a total sandbag, I climbed a few moves up and then backed off it a few times. 5a is a total joke, definitely 5b and the gear in the first half won't stop you hitting the belay ledge if you grease off. Actually quite scary! I brought Tim up just to give my nerves a bit of a break before leading P3. I struggled a bit finding a way to get started on P3, in the end used the slopey sidepull as a fiddly fingerlock to get the next hold up then did a huge move across to the incut crimps out right. Cut loose with my feet just as I made contact and ended up doing some primal power shout to match hands and pull myself up. After that it eased off slightly though there is a harder sideways move above. Caution just below the top-out, there are a few large flakes/blocks perched on the very edge just before you top-out, one in particular would be heading straight for the belay ledge. Might be worth someone trundling at least the outer one at some point soon.

with Tim
LRob ?/Sep AltLd O/S
Nick Wallis ?/Sep AltLd O/S
with Coops, Neil McAdie
3 Names 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Pitches 1 & 2

with Patrick Goodwin
Hidden 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Led P1. We abbed in with the intention of doing Antiworlds but it was wet and greasy and covered in shit. Tried Supernova but it was greasy and I didn't want to break my ankles.

with Richard Waltham
will_benfold 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 (the easy one, although 5a is probably a bit of a sandbag). 5c probably correct for P1, P3, but there were a lot of 5c moves, and it never got much easier in between!

with Chris Bull
Nick Russell 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Alex linked P1+2, I led P3. Very atmospheric!

Alex Winter 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Ran first two pitches together. Alastair appeared on the other side of the zawn ad took some photos while Nick was on the cruxy final pitch. Bit dirty, but very atmospheric and very good.

with Nick
alastairbegley 06/Sep/14 AltLd

Lead P1&3. A stunning route in a brilliant location, gutted that I slipped off P1 due to a greasy hold.

twem 06/Sep/14 AltLd
ferdia 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew Wielochowski
James Oswald ?/Sep/14 Lead

Lead only P3 because we took too short an abseil rope so couldn't get to the bottom of the route. Nice climbing on p3, though it's a shame about the nearby corner. Tough for 5c.

Hidden ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Dave-Westlake ??/2014 -
Kevster 11/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Location location location.

with Steve Read
Tala M 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S

At 8months pregnant I was very pleased to second this cleanly, and what a fantastic route! Second pitch is definitely 5b. Stu finished P1 direct then moved across right to set up a belay for P2, which worked very well.

with Stu Bradbury
john lynch 28/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Probably my favorite route to date, truly unforgettable experience from start to finish. lead first pitch, finished up the 5c crack for the 3rd ( reminiscent of the toy at curbar) - but in a much more spectacular position!

with adam harrison
Apharri 27/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 3. A fantastic experience. Topped just as sun was setting

Misha 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S

What a route, what a setting! Possibly the best multipitch E2 I've done. Lots of hard 5c sequences on P1&3 with rests on good holds / little ledges separating them - so sustained difficulties but not pumpy. Gear adequate. So not quite E3 but top end E2. A bit damp to start and a bit dirty in places to add to the experience! Ed didn't fancy P2 and it proved to be a sandbag: 5b moves (not 5a!) to the first good holds and gear a fair way off the belay ledge, then awkward hard 5a jamming. A full on experience on a great line in a very impressive place. NOTES: (1) The ab is more like 50m rather than 45m as per guide book. (2) It isn't very clear which crack to take for P1. The RH crack (which is very thin and goes through a more defined overhang) isn't in the guide book and looks hard! The LH crack (with a series of incut holds to start and going through a weakness in the overhang) is Quatermass. (3) Looked like a direct finish to P1 could be done at the same grade rather than traversing R along the ledges, though would then need to move down a bit for the P2 belay. (4) P2 is worrying 5b as noted above.

with Ed
eduardo 13/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Didn't fancy the look of P2 (damp, poorly protected for a few metres after nuts just above belay) so handed the lead back to Misha. Great route, sustained difficulties.

with Misha
paddygoodwinlondon 12/Sep/12 AltLd dog

fall seconding 3rd pitch in rain (Dan linked 2 & 3, i lead 1st clean)

with Dan
dan gibson 12/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
with patrick goodwin
dan gibson 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Ed Ratcliffe
Glyn 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Top pitch

with Luke, Barni
Luke Brooks 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S


with Glyn Hudson, Barni
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 08/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 07/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
cem 12/Sep/02 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Hidden 04/Sep/01 AltLd
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
with Robin
WB ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Tim M ??/1993 AltLd O/S
with Pete V
mattnuttall ?/Sep/92 AltLd O/S

lead P1

with Alan Holden
Hidden 30/Aug/91 AltLd β
Steve Bell ??/1990 -
Tom V ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with Howie Darwin
Hidden ??/1981 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
petecallaghan, timtimpeggy, khalidq, Alex the Alex, Phil Ingle, Master Chief, Ian Jones, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 11
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set