Quatermass*** E2 5c
[Lundy MOB trip 1992, 3 kb]The unsound block on Pitch one was proven to be so and is no more. The route still climbable of course but maybe a little more sustained and perhaps technically harder.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Lundy MOB trip 1992 © mattnuttall
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This climb is in 45 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

tim.fairhall - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/15 with Sachi

In a word - Incredible. Best E2 I've ever done by miles. Routefinding is tricky on P1, as someone else has noted below, follow the left-hand of the two crack systems in the centre of the wall, not the one that goes directly through the overhang above the belay ledge. Tim did a brilliant lead on P1 - very thin, hard to read delicate moves with mostly good gear. I followed ok but was expecting my feet to slip off at any moment for some of it. The crux felt hard 5c. Total relief to make it to the belay ledge. I led P2 which is a total sandbag, I climbed a few moves up and then backed off it a few times. 5a is a total joke, definitely 5b and the gear in the first half won't stop you hitting the belay ledge if you grease off. Actually quite scary! I brought Tim up just to give my nerves a bit of a break before leading P3. I struggled a bit finding a way to get started on P3, in the end used the slopey sidepull as a fiddly fingerlock to get the next hold up then did a huge move across to the incut crimps out right. Cut loose with my feet just as I made contact and ended up doing some primal power shout to match hands and pull myself up. After that it eased off slightly though there is a harder sideways move above. Caution just below the top-out, there are a few large flakes/blocks perched on the very edge just before you top-out, one in particular would be heading straight for the belay ledge. Might be worth someone trundling at least the outer one at some point soon.
jsmcfarland - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/15 with Tim

LRob - AltLd O/S - Sep/15

Nick Wallis - AltLd O/S - Sep/15 with Coops, Neil McAdie

Pitches 1 & 2
3 Names - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/14 with Patrick Goodwin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/14

Led P1. We abbed in with the intention of doing Antiworlds but it was wet and greasy and covered in shit. Tried Supernova but it was greasy and I didn't want to break my ankles.
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/14 with Richard Waltham

Led P2 (the easy one, although 5a is probably a bit of a sandbag). 5c probably correct for P1, P3, but there were a lot of 5c moves, and it never got much easier in between!
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with Chris Bull

Alex linked P1+2, I led P3. Very atmospheric!
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/14 with Alex Winter

Ran first two pitches together. Alastair appeared on the other side of the zawn ad took some photos while Nick was on the cruxy final pitch. Bit dirty, but very atmospheric and very good.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/14 with Nick

Lead P1&3. A stunning route in a brilliant location, gutted that I slipped off P1 due to a greasy hold.
alastairbegley - AltLd - 06/Sep/14 with Andrew Twemlow

twem - AltLd - 06/Sep/14 with Alastair

ferdia - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Andrew Wielochowski

Lead only P3 because we took too short an abseil rope so couldn't get to the bottom of the route. Nice climbing on p3, though it's a shame about the nearby corner. Tough for 5c.
James Oswald - Lead - Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/14

Dave-Westlake - 2014

Location location location.
Kevster - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/13 with Steve Read

At 8months pregnant I was very pleased to second this cleanly, and what a fantastic route! Second pitch is definitely 5b. Stu finished P1 direct then moved across right to set up a belay for P2, which worked very well.
Tala M - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Stu Bradbury

Probably my favorite route to date, truly unforgettable experience from start to finish. lead first pitch, finished up the 5c crack for the 3rd ( reminiscent of the toy at curbar) - but in a much more spectacular position!
john lynch - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/12 with adam harrison

Led 2 and 3. A fantastic experience. Topped just as sun was setting
Apharri - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/12 with John Lynch

What a route, what a setting! Possibly the best multipitch E2 I've done. Lots of hard 5c sequences on P1&3 with rests on good holds / little ledges separating them - so sustained difficulties but not pumpy. Gear adequate. So not quite E3 but top end E2. A bit damp to start and a bit dirty in places to add to the experience! Ed didn't fancy P2 and it proved to be a sandbag: 5b moves (not 5a!) to the first good holds and gear a fair way off the belay ledge, then awkward hard 5a jamming. A full on experience on a great line in a very impressive place. NOTES: (1) The ab is more like 50m rather than 45m as per guide book. (2) It isn't very clear which crack to take for P1. The RH crack (which is very thin and goes through a more defined overhang) isn't in the guide book and looks hard! The LH crack (with a series of incut holds to start and going through a weakness in the overhang) is Quatermass. (3) Looked like a direct finish to P1 could be done at the same grade rather than traversing R along the ledges, though would then need to move down a bit for the P2 belay. (4) P2 is worrying 5b as noted above.
Misha - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Ed

Didn't fancy the look of P2 (damp, poorly protected for a few metres after nuts just above belay) so handed the lead back to Misha. Great route, sustained difficulties.
eduardo - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Misha

fall seconding 3rd pitch in rain (Dan linked 2 & 3, i lead 1st clean)
paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd dog - 12/Sep/12 with Dan

dan gibson - AltLd rpt - 12/Sep/12 with patrick goodwin

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Ed Ratcliffe

Top pitch
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Luke, Barni

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Glyn Hudson, Barni

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/03

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/02 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Sep/01

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - Aug/01 with Robin

WB - AltLd O/S - Sep/99 with Guy

Tim M - AltLd O/S - 1993 with Pete V

lead P1
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - Sep/92 with Alan Holden

Hidden - AltLd β - 30/Aug/91

Steve Bell - 1990

Tom V - AltLd - Aug/88 with Howie Darwin

Hidden - AltLd - 1981

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
timtimpeggy, khalidq, Alex the Alex, Master Chief, Ian Jones

Total votes cast 32
hard E30 of 11
E30 of 11
easy E31 of 11
hard E28 of 11
E22 of 11
easy E20 of 11
hard E10 of 11
E10 of 11
easy E10 of 11
hard 6a0 of 11
6a0 of 11
easy 6a0 of 11
hard 5c4 of 11
5c7 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 11
5b0 of 11
easy 5b0 of 11
3 Stars7 of 10
2 Stars2 of 10
1 Star1 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat