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Quatermass*** E2 5c

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[Lundy MOB trip 1992, 3 kb]The unsound block on Pitch one was proven to be so and is no more. The route still climbable of course but maybe a little more sustained and perhaps technically harder.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Lundy MOB trip 1992 © mattnuttall
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 28 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Location location location.
Kevster - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/13 with Steve Read

At 8months pregnant I was very pleased to second this cleanly, and what a fantastic route! Second pitch is definitely 5b. Stu finished P1 direct then moved across right to set up a belay for P2, which worked very well.
Tala M - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Stu Bradbury

Probably my favorite route to date, truly unforgettable experience from start to finish. lead first pitch, finished up the 5c crack for the 3rd ( reminiscent of the toy at curbar) - but in a much more spectacular position!
john lynch - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/12 with adam harrison

Led 2 and 3. A fantastic experience. Topped just as sun was setting
Apharri - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/12 with John Lynch

What a route, what a setting! Possibly the best multipitch E2 I've done. Lots of hard 5c sequences on P1&3 with rests on good holds / little ledges separating them - so sustained difficulties but not pumpy. Gear adequate. So not quite E3 but top end E2. A bit damp to start and a bit dirty in places to add to the experience! Ed didn't fancy P2 and it proved to be a sandbag: 5b moves (not 5a!) to the first good holds and gear a fair way off the belay ledge, then awkward hard 5a jamming. A full on experience on a great line in a very impressive place. NOTES: (1) The ab is more like 50m rather than 45m as per guide book. (2) It isn't very clear which crack to take for P1. The RH crack (which is very thin and goes through a more defined overhang) isn't in the guide book and looks hard! The LH crack (with a series of incut holds to start and going through a weakness in the overhang) is Quatermass. (3) Looked like a direct finish to P1 could be done at the same grade rather than traversing R along the ledges, though would then need to move down a bit for the P2 belay. (4) P2 is worrying 5b as noted above.
Misha - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Ed

Didn't fancy the look of P2 (damp, poorly protected for a few metres after nuts just above belay) so handed the lead back to Misha. Great route, sustained difficulties.
eduardo - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Misha

fall seconding 3rd pitch in rain (Dan linked 2 & 3, i lead 1st clean)
paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd dog - 12/Sep/12 with Dan

dan gibson - AltLd rpt - 12/Sep/12 with patrick goodwin

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Ed Ratcliffe

Top pitch
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Luke, Barni

p2
Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Glyn Hudson, Barni

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/03

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/02 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Sep/01

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - Aug/01 with Robin

WB - AltLd O/S - Sep/99 with Guy

Tim M - AltLd O/S - 1993 with Pete V

lead P1
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - Sep/92 with Alan Holden

Hidden - AltLd β - 30/Aug/91

Hidden - 1990

Tom V - AltLd - Aug/88 with Howie Darwin

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Phil Ingle, Master Chief, Ian Jones, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 20
hard E30 of 7
E30 of 7
easy E31 of 7
hard E24 of 7
E22 of 7
easy E20 of 7
hard E10 of 7
E10 of 7
easy E10 of 7
hard 6a0 of 7
6a0 of 7
easy 6a0 of 7
hard 5c2 of 7
5c5 of 7
easy 5c0 of 7
hard 5b0 of 7
5b0 of 7
easy 5b0 of 7
3 Stars4 of 6
2 Stars1 of 6
1 Star1 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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Style of ascent

Lead4 of 28 (14.3%)
Followed2 of 28 (7.1%)
Alt Leads19 of 28 (67.9%)
Unknown3 of 28 (10.7%)

'Climbed'6 of 28 (21.4%)
clean O/S19 of 28 (67.9%)
clean β1 of 28 (3.6%)
clean rpt1 of 28 (3.6%)
dogged1 of 28 (3.6%)