Devon > Lundy >
 
Formula One*** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Nigel Mansell
 
The Wacky Races >>
[Nick still on Formula One, 2 kb]One of Lundy's classic HVSs and a route of great variety. Ascend the cornered ramp on the RHS of the buttress delicately, past a small overlap. Swing R at the main roof to enter the continuation crack, a monster layback flack and a short finishing corner. The final flake and overhang below have now fallen down. Remaining loose rock has so far prevented an ascent of the new line.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: Nick still on Formula One © Chris the Tall
View all 11 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 222 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

Rockfall scar stopped progress, bah! Very dirty and no apparent gear where the block had been - should have mugged up! Lowered off.
bullybones - Lead - 21/Jun/14 with Neil

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Aug/13

1st part of the pitch but it appears the flake at the top has collapsed forcing me to traverse onto Indy 500. Belayed as ran out of gear and David finished the route. Small nuts/alpine nuts/offsets useful.Sadly this is now not a totally independant route and ends in a 5b finish as where the flake came down is now very crumbly.
darren hudson - AltLd dog - 25/Jul/13 with David Ford

Nick Biven - 2013

jordan graham - 28/Sep/12

Dan wanted to examine potential after rock fall. Finished up Indy 500 as top of route looks loose and no possibility of protection.
rd20 - 2nd dnf - 10/Sep/12 with Dan G

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/12

Unspeakable... No-one told us it had fallen down! The top half was an unprotected, dust ridden nightmare... Terrifying retreat...
Alex the Alex - Lead dnf - Aug/12

mc fifi - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Ed Hastrop

The large flake at the top has gone!!! Had to escape onto Indy 500 :s AVOID unless you are prepared to find an alternative finish
Stroppy - Lead - 10/Jun/12 with Fiona Adie

cymjt - 2012

Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 17/Sep/11 with Will

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Erica

erica - 2nd - 15/Sep/11 with John

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/11

Climbed in intermittent drizzle. Unnerving but memorable.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Tim

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Nancy Jones

supurb route glad it wasn't wet, not good wether holiday
Dale - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/11

What a fantastic climb. One to go back and lead myself. Excellent moves all the way and loads of gear to protect them.
matthomas79 - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Tala Murdock

Awesome route! Used an entire rack of gear and it was all fairly bomber. One of the best protected routes I've done and used such an array of gear on
Tala M - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Matt Thomas

Kevster - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/11

fletch73 - 2nd - 26/Aug/11 with Evan Hall

evhall - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/11 with Fletch

Rachel Somerville - 2nd - 25/Aug/11 with Peri Stracchino, Graham

after watching graham lead and rachel second, rachel lowered down after seconding so i could also lead.
pebbles - Lead β - 25/Aug/11 with rachel

quality climbing with good gear and quite technical at the overlap, keeps giving until the end !
lithos - Lead - 23/Aug/11 with Pete Bradshaw

kdalzell - 2nd - 21/Aug/11 with Liam Fleming

Liam FLeming - Lead - 20/Aug/11 with karen dalzell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/11

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Tom Lambert

spondulix - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Ben

givemetea - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/11 with Craig Jenkins

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Gary Lewin

thrutch - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11 with helen

Graham Booth - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with rachel somerville

Guy Wilson - Lead - Aug/11 with Gavin Moy

timtimpeggy - AltLd - Aug/11

Fantastic positions - especially moving around the overhang near the top onto the ramp/crack
julesmckim - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Mickie Streule

Maximally ace.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/10 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Sep/10

Bex_M - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/10 with Andy

Hidden - Lead - 12/Sep/10

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Andy Shaw

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/10

felt fairly insecure as it was very greasy more like 5b moves good gear and impressive laybacking to the top
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/10 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/10

Kevster - 2nd - Sep/10

steve2006 - Lead - Sep/10

daveyji - 2nd - Sep/10 with Richard, Simon Hoskings

Luuuuuke - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with lundy mike

Homes - Lead - 27/Aug/10 with Fred

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/10

Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Richard

3 Names - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with Sumee Holloway

Chris returned to lead clean. Great moves, didn't experience difficulties at crux.
Alex Thompson - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Dreadlocks Chris

Downclimbed from the crux the day before, came back and did it today. Dan gave me beta for the crux but I ended up doing it totally differently anyway!
willworkforfoodjnr - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Alex Thompson

best route i have ever done, justr brilliant.
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Ellie boylan

Not really my style of climbing. Sat on the rope - a lot. Nice route though
elephant0907 - 2nd dog - 27/Jul/10 with Dan Lane

dave657 - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with paul b

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with Mike Thomas

irish paul - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with Dave Ripley

Jess Christley - 2nd - 31/May/10 with Sarah Joyce

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/10

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 28/Sep/09 with GF

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/09

Great first HVS
fchris - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/09 with Joris R, Mike Redmayne

dicky79 - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/09 with Andy Sloane, Mark Nicholson

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09

Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09 with Chris Miller

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09

richw2k2 - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Tom

Clean ascent.
Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 05/Sep/09 with Phil

wolverine - 05/Sep/09 with Bryony Wethers

Katya - 2nd - 02/Sep/09 with Chris Coleman

Great pitch. Sustained rather than cruxy. Very similar to Great North Road only longer, if a little easier. Contender for best HVS in UK?
Tom Last - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Chester

Fantastic, 3 stars!!!!must go back and lead one day.
crobinson - 2nd - 11/Aug/09 with Queequeg

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/09

An amazing climb one of my favourites.
gazlad - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with wetton

Spillers - 2nd - Aug/09 with Stavvy

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Stew Boyce

Jillybean - 2nd - 08/Jul/09 with Tom Dixion and Steve Franklin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/09

lukea - Lead - 30/Jun/09 with Al

Anna seconded clean. Nice
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/09

Best route I've ever done?
Adam Booth - Lead - 21/Jun/09 with Kerry Alison

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Sep/08

Dropped back on to gear at crux. Great varied climbing.
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 16/Sep/08 with Dave Payne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08

DafSWMC - 2nd rpt - 13/Sep/08 with Hash

One of the best climbs I've done. E1?
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Nik Goile

1 rest
hash - Lead dog - 13/Sep/08 with DafSWMC

jamie ward - 2nd - 12/Sep/08 with Chris Comrie

Jim Walton - Lead β - Sep/08 with Mike Owen

James B - Lead dog - 30/Aug/08 with Nigel

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/08

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with AJ

zero six - Lead O/S - Aug/08

nickdonohue - 2nd - Jul/08 with Andy Neath

Shaw Brown - Lead - 08/May/08 with simon blythe

Coel Hellier - Lead - 03/May/08 with Richard

Tim Steward - 16/Mar/08 with Helen Alderson

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

John Kettle - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Great route, one of the best HVS's I've done! Interesting climbing all the way up. Loads of gear and good rests where you need it. Crux is not where you think it would be, but well protected. Something for all climbers. Face / crack climbing, bridging and laybacks, a must for all HVS climbers. Enjoy!
cmawson - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Guido

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Sep/07

Guy - AltLd - Sep/07 with C Mawson

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Aug/07

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/07 with Kate

Fine, varied route.
Chad123 - 2nd - 07/Aug/07 with Jo

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/06 with Mike Hayes

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Sep/06

HughM - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with notgnarly

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/06

Led with gear placed by Nick - loads for most of the route, but a bit more spaced on the final cracks. And of course this is where it started to rain
Chris the Tall - Lead β - 23/Aug/06 with Nick & Kate

Katex - 2nd - 23/Aug/06 with Chris Moor, Nick Smith

Marq - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/06 with Ruth Creamer

Hidden - Lead - Aug/06

Duncan Hardy - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/06 with Paul Smith

Bern - 2006

feilx - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Neil Ireson - Lead - 20/Sep/05 with John & Jane

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/05

Bella - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/05 with Lucy

givemetea - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/05 with Bob

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Tony Payne

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead - Aug/05

Geoffers - 2nd - Aug/05 with Jeff, Bean, Simon, Tim

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Okecroak - Lead - 14/Sep/04 with I Butler

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/04 with Craven MC

ferdia - 2nd - 07/Sep/04 with Andrew Wielochowski

AJM - 2nd O/S - Sep/04 with Alan Dickinson

timreynolds - Lead - 26/Aug/04 with John

cem - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/04 with Dave Amos

leadmat - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Dr James Armstrong

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/03

Okecroak - Lead - 16/Aug/03 with C. Ebbutt

five - Lead O/S - Aug/03

Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/02

cem - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/02 with Graham Dolman

Roget - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

timmy-ts - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

With Ben Rodgers
Lepista - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/99

WB - AltLd O/S - Sep/99 with Guy

Derek Furze - Aug/99

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 1999 with Jo Bertalot

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/98

DafSWMC - Lead O/S - Sep/98 with ICMC

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/98 with Nick Hanie

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Jules

andy_pemberton - Lead - Aug/98

Hidden - Lead - 1998

VPJB - 1998

Hidden - Lead - 17/Sep/97

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Aug/97

Pete Nugent - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/97

Hidden - Lead - 1997

colin milton - Lead dog - 01/Sep/96 with eric milton

snowcat - 2nd - 27/Aug/96 with Chris Schiller

Pete Nugent - Lead rpt - 18/Aug/96 with Fiona Stoddart, Pete Cosgrove

Iain Thow - Lead - 09/Aug/96 with Mel Dyce

I lost the toss for the lead - or perhaps I offered it having seen a big squall heading straight for us. Any road up, I ended up trying to second the route in a deluge of Noah-like proportions. There was about half an inch of water running down the crux, which I had almost done when I slipped off. Such was the stretch of the rope that I finished up below the crux sequence again.... I'm sure it's a great route though.
Rog Wilko - 2nd - Aug/96 with Shad Makin

Budge - Lead O/S - Aug/95 with Adrian Fox

Steve Lenartowicz - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1995

mikej - Lead - 02/Sep/94 with Mike Byles

RichardMc - AltLd - Sep/92 with John Evans

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - Sep/92 with Jacko

Hidden - Aug/92

Hidden - 2nd β - 01/Sep/91

garywalker147 - AltLd O/S - Sep/91 with Mob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/91

Terrific HVS.
eroica64 - Lead O/S - Sep/90 with Denis Crampton

Hidden - 1990

Sean Kelly - Lead - Jul/89 with Alan Payne

BigHairyIan - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/89 with Alan Lilley (Thug)

ChrisJD - 2nd - 19/Sep/88

Mike Owen - 06/Aug/88 with Elaine Owen

andy gittins - 1988

Superb route with bags of variety and sustained interest !
rogerskews - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/87 with Martin Coward

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 01/Aug/87 with Steve Webster

steve taylor - Lead - 1987 with mike chase

Tom V - Aug/86

RichardMc - 2nd - 04/Sep/83 with John Evans

Pete Nugent - Lead - Aug/83 with Mick Rugg

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Sep/79 with Mike Wright

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/69

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Hidden, Hidden, Master Chief, pyromantic, mullermn, pc1983, Hidden, Leelogs, gibsond, iceaxejuggler, Alan100, jeffsheard, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, dja, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, tracyclimber, rob askew, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 117
hard E10 of 41
E10 of 41
easy E11 of 41
hard HVS12 of 41
HVS27 of 41
easy HVS1 of 41
hard VS0 of 41
VS0 of 41
easy VS0 of 41
hard 5b0 of 39
5b0 of 39
easy 5b3 of 39
hard 5a17 of 39
5a19 of 39
easy 5a0 of 39
hard 4c0 of 39
4c0 of 39
easy 4c0 of 39
3 Stars31 of 37
2 Stars6 of 37
1 Star0 of 37
0 Stars0 of 37
Bag of .....0 of 37
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Style of ascent

Lead122 of 222 (55.0%)
Followed67 of 222 (30.2%)
Alt Leads10 of 222 (4.5%)
Unknown23 of 222 (10.4%)

'Climbed'99 of 222 (44.6%)
clean O/S96 of 222 (43.2%)
clean β4 of 222 (1.8%)
clean rpt12 of 222 (5.4%)
dogged8 of 222 (3.6%)
dnf3 of 222 (1.4%)