The Indy 500*** E1 5b
[Dave Talbot on The Indy 500, 2 kb]35m. From part-way up the huge corner, follow the crack line on the left wall all the way to the top, via a well-earned ledge at half height and a steepening finale, breaking left to top out. Pumpy, exhilerating and with loads of gear, a 3 star pitch if ever there was one.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Dave Talbot on The Indy 500 © www.climbpembroke.com
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 207 logbooks, and on 28 wishlists.

Lumbering Oaf - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/14 with James Hoyes, Rach Batt

Another awesome route. Just enough ledgey bits for shaking out the pump in the first half.
Batt - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Matt Box, James Hoyes

Hoyes - 2nd rpt - 20/Sep/14 with Matt B, Rachel B

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Dan Lane

rd20 - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/14 with Patrick

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/14 with Richard W

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14

khalidq - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with James Hall

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/14

Andy Moles - 2nd - 09/Sep/14 with Pimpy

pimpy - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/14 with andy moles

Pretty sustained. Tough moves at the top with great finger locks in the crack.
Nick Russell - 2nd - 07/Sep/14 with Alex Winter

Brilliant, sustained climbing. High in the grade.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Nick

ferdia - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Hertha

burto - 2nd - 03/Sep/14 with malc

Cool climbing, holds just appear when you want it! Fantastic
Shea - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/14 with Andy Latham

AndyL - 2nd β - 01/Sep/14 with seamus

As good as I remembered, great sustained climbing.
James Oswald - Lead - Sep/14

Mr Powly - 2nd - Sep/14 with Rozzy

Fantastic dynamic climbing on great holds. The last part did not seem the hardest as although its the steepest part, the holds are most adequate.
Jules Lane - 2nd O/S - Sep/14 with Mark Proctor

AndyL - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Calum cuthill

guy757 - 20/Aug/14

What an amazing route, quite sustained but super well protected.
RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/14 with James, Bec

A Superb and well sustained pitch.
Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/14 with Dave Platt

Godd effort Sam! We agreed that the guidebbok seemed a little misleading when it says hard start and finish, it all seems about the same difficulty throughout, albeit with a few good rests on small ledges. Very well protected.
Stroppy - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/14 with Sam Husband

First legit E1 (Cenotaph Corner seeming too easy, the Amone Slab being bolted and Strapiombante having been a repeat). Swore a lot. There are miny cruxes everywhere so don't place your gear expecting the bits the guidebook says are hard to be there. Lots of places to rest though so I managed to place tonnes of gear. The climbing is three stars but it's not as spectacular as other 3 star routes being tucked up the side of a gully.
Sam Husband - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14 with Ed

adie84 - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Great route, didn't have much left to give by the top
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/13 with Sarah Flint

fishinwater - 2nd - 23/Sep/13 with Al Begley

Dan 85 - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/13 with Ed

tonevert - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/13 with Patricia, jeremy

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Sep/13

Brian Rodgers - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Esther Bott, Simon Pape

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/Sep/13

Gutted I ended up on the left of the crack and used a hand jam to move across but not the correct way around so it slipped out. Great route though.
Tala M - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/13 with Mike Brookes

Justin Shiels - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/13

The holds were not obvious, when looking up, but they were often better than my expectation. Brilliant route.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Ingrid C

Nick Biven - 2013

Very, very good. I love the fact you can place a cam on granite and actually trust it.
Bisset - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with gibsond

Great climb.
gibsond - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with James Bisset

Great climbing up the cracks. No jamming needed. Hard sections between rests on perfect rock. 3* status deserved.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12 with Gwilym

*$!t I found that hard to second!
Happy Wanderer - 2nd dog - 15/Sep/12 with Rob Tresize, Mark H

Hidden - Lead - 11/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/12

Tried leading. Went way off course. Fell. Dan got gear.
rd20 - 2nd dog - 10/Sep/12 with Dan G

Kevster - 2nd - 10/Sep/12 with Will T

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/12 with robert dufton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12

First route on Lundy. A bit harsh as a warm up as it's a tough E1 but F1 is no more (I belayed on it...). Good moves and pretty sustained apart from a couple of ledges but not really a 3 star line, particularly as very close to the VS grotty corner in its lower section, so I'd say only 2 stars.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Phil

Good climbing if a bit close to the dirty corner.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with misha

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12

Nick Wallis - 2nd - Sep/12 with Martin Cooper

Excellent :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Richard Williams

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/12

After failing to finish the route on two previous attempts (down-climbed rather than falling off so not lot the onsight) i finally got up it this year. Really hot though, only the top 15 feet were in the sun but i was dripping with sweat at the top. we ate ice cream for the rest of the day...one of the best routes I've ever done. even if it was a bit of a battle!
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Ruth Taylor, Andy Turner

Harder than The Strand
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12 with Colonel Sir Timothy Clarke C.E.O., Brigadier Sir Roger Benton

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Aug/12

timmsy - AltLd dog - 24/May/12 with David_Gledson

Kaiser999 - 2nd - 2012 with Jim

cymjt - 2012

Nice moves, steady E1, felt soft for the grade.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Will

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/11

Steep and positive. Classic.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/11 with SGD, Tim

Great route, steep but always with a good hold nearby
SGD - 2nd - 06/Sep/11 with Andy Clarke

best route of this hol, took me 4 attempts to climb this, first attempt it starting raining after doing a wet road runner. Second there was a que after doing formula 1. Third andy abbed in down hot rod, and had to go up rope to get out staring raining hard hot rodded out of there. When I eventually got to climb it big seas ment it was very greasy, made it more fun for me
Dale - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/11

Glyn - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Luke, Barni

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 21/Aug/11 with Glyn Hudson, Barni

kdalzell - 2nd - 21/Aug/11 with Liam Fleming

Liam FLeming - Lead - 20/Aug/11 with karen dalzell

spondulix - 2nd β - 19/Aug/11 with Carol, Ben

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Aug/11

givemetea - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11 with Craig Jenkins

Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Gary Lewin

Guy Wilson - 2nd - Aug/11 with Gavin Moy

soph - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with Dan McManus

timtimpeggy - AltLd - Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/10

very pumpy - not my style but gave it a go placing loads of gear. ended up being in the top 5 climbs i've ever done, it is so good!
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/10 with Remus Knowles

Kevster - Lead - Sep/10

Homes - 2nd - 27/Aug/10 with Shaun M

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/10

Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Richard

3 Names - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Sumee Holloway

dave657 - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with paul b

irish paul - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Dave Ripley

Jess Christley - 2nd - 31/May/10 with Sarah Joyce

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Mike Thomas

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/09

had seconded it a few days earlier. Put too much gear in, got pumped
Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/09 with Chris F, Mike Redmayne

fchris - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/09 with Joris R, Mike Redmayne

dicky79 - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09 with Andy Sloane, Mark Nicholson

Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Sep/09

richw2k2 - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Tom

brilliant brilliant wall climbing
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Misread the final moves - damn it.
PanzerHanzler - 2nd dog - 19/Aug/09 with Martin Hore, Steve Culverhouse

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Andy Hansler & Martin Hore

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/09

good exciting fun
gazlad - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with wetton

Spillers - 2nd - Aug/09 with Stavvy

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Stew Boyce

Jillybean - 2nd - 08/Jul/09 with Tom Dixion and Steve Franklin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/09

lukea - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/09 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/08

Super
chris wyatt - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Nik Goile

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/08

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with AJ

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08 with douglas

zero six - Lead O/S - Aug/08

superb crack climbing; one the best E1s I've done
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/08 with Andy Neath

No need to go off right to the wide crack as stated earlier, top is clean and good.
Shaw Brown - Lead - 10/May/08 with Jeb

Coel Hellier - Lead - 03/May/08 with Richard

Tim Steward - 16/Mar/08 with Helen Alderson

Al Evans - 2008

John Kettle - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd β - 30/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Aug/07

Needs a clean as hard to get onto top headwall, most people seem to finish up the dirty wide crack instead.
Chad123 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/07 with Jo

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Aug/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Sep/06

HughM - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with notgnarly

Hidden - Lead - Aug/06

Bern - 2006

feilx - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Neil Ireson - Lead - 20/Sep/05 with John & Jane

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Tony Payne

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

ian caton - Lead O/S - 2005 with Abi

My first extreme! At the time it was definately the best route I'd ever done. 9am no warmup.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/04 with Craven MC

cem - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/04 with Dave Amos

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/04

leadmat - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Dr James Armstrong

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/03

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/03

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/02

cem - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/02 with Graham Dolman

cem - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/01 with Chris Thorpe

Roget - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/01 with jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/01

Hidden - 2001

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - Aug/00 with Paul Tanton

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2000 with Carl

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 17/Sep/99

WB - AltLd O/S - Sep/99 with Guy

Frostie - Lead - Aug/99

Derek Furze - Aug/99

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 1999 with Jo Bertalot

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/98

Paul-Michael - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/98 with Steve Newman, Nick Hanie

andy_pemberton - Lead - Aug/98 with Rik Meek

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Hidden - Lead - 1998

VPJB - 1998

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/97

Pete Nugent - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/97 with Kath Brannigan, Phil?, Tony Madden

Hidden - Lead - 1997

colin milton - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/96 with eric milton

Bold, big holds, big pro and fun!
eroica64 - AltLd O/S - Sep/96 with Denis Crampton

snowcat - 2nd - 29/Aug/96 with Chris Schiller

Pete Nugent - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/96 with Tom Phillips

Simon cook - Aug/96

Steve Lenartowicz - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1995

RichardMc - 2nd - 12/Sep/92 with John Evans

whispering nic - Lead - 07/Sep/92 with Ali W

Hidden - Aug/92

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/91 with Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/91

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/91

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/91

Hidden - 1990

Magnificent route! One of the best that I have done!
BigHairyIan - Lead RP - 26/Mar/89 with Alan Lilley (Thug)

ChrisJD - Lead - 19/Sep/88

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 09/Aug/88 with Dave Simmonds

Mike Owen - 31/Jul/88 with Elaine Owen

andy gittins - 1988

steve taylor - Lead - 1987 with Mike Beresford

shark - 2nd - 17/Aug/86 with Grin

Tom V - Aug/86

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1981 with Various

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/69

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, Kate Edhouse, hutchay, Phil Ingle, StuartP, jezb1, JonmapDL, Mike Nolan, oliverk, Master Chief, woodsy, Alan100, Ian Jones, iceaxejuggler, JWB, James B, Scott McRae, jak.kelly, rob askew

Voting
Total votes cast 143
hard E20 of 49
E20 of 49
easy E22 of 49
hard E116 of 49
E130 of 49
easy E11 of 49
hard HVS0 of 49
HVS0 of 49
easy HVS0 of 49
hard 5c0 of 46
5c0 of 46
easy 5c0 of 46
hard 5b7 of 46
5b35 of 46
easy 5b4 of 46
hard 5a0 of 46
5a0 of 46
easy 5a0 of 46
3 Stars41 of 48
2 Stars6 of 48
1 Star1 of 48
0 Stars0 of 48
Bag of .....0 of 48
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Style of ascent

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dogged
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