35m. From part-way up the huge corner, follow the crack line on the left wall all the way to the top, via a well-earned ledge at half height and a steepening finale, breaking left to top out. Pumpy, exhilerating and with loads of gear, a 3 star pitch if ever there was one.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Lundy 2016, Lundy.


ClimberDateStyle
garywong 12/Sep 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep Lead dog
Barrie Schofield II 10/Sep 2nd
AnneMarie 10/Sep 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 09/Sep Lead O/S

Well good!

James Oswald 09/Sep 2nd rpt

As good as ever.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 08/Sep 2nd rpt
NDD 08/Sep Lead O/S
with Mike Watson
penny.orr 08/Sep Lead O/S

First E1! Was pretty wet but the climbing was amazing!

Hidden 08/Sep 2nd
Andrew Sloan 07/Sep 2nd rpt

Agnes lead the first 25m well but then ran out of steam and dogged the rest. Much harder than I remember.

with Agnes
Hidden 07/Sep Lead dog
shaunhumphreys 04/Sep Lead O/S

mega!

markalmack 04/Sep Lead O/S

thought this was excellent. done in 1 pitch

with maddy
benkelsey 04/Sep 2nd O/S

Best e1 in the country?

paul79 29/Aug 2nd O/S
greglad 29/Aug -
leerybunny 27/Aug 2nd O/S
with Robb WIlkinson
Robb Bert 27/Aug Lead
Stanners 25/Aug 2nd O/S

Volunteered to second Sally. More E2 5b I think, but obviously a classic.

with Alex and Sally, Andy G
Hidden 25/Aug Lead
Hidden 25/Aug 2nd
Daniel Heath 14/Aug 2nd O/S

Great route

with Jim Jarvis
j.buckley87 30/Jul Lead
j.buckley87 30/Jul AltLd
southern_smit ?/Jul Lead

amazing route such good moves and climbing

andrewmcleod 22/May 2nd O/S

Excellent route - I thought this was technical but really not that sustained (if you were sensible with your feet rather than hanging off your arms), plus I was only seconding... Pro Tip: If (like me) you are stupid enough to come climbing on Lundy during the bird ban season, abseil straight down onto the routes rather than down the grassy gully - that way you shouldn't annoy the seagulls nesting at the bottom of the gully and on the ridge you have to cross (obviously if you are annoying them anyway, back off and do something else...)

Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Dizz 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with EJ
Nick Wallis ?/Sep/15 2nd β
with James Hall, Stan
tim.fairhall 31/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Start of the route was a bit of a waterfall, bridged up the wet chimney a little to get to the dry stuff (think this was the line in the guidebook anyway) Really good climb that is well protected, quite a hard E1 I think, it's so sustained but very well protected. I plugged in a ton of cams and offset nuts. There's a brilliant rest directly before the grand finale. Loved it!

with Tim
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd
Climbster 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with MoB, Ian
Bloke on a Rope 29/Aug/15 2nd β

Awesome!

with Matt
Hidden 28/Aug/15 Lead β
kennythescot 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Did Formula 1: 1st pitch Indy 500 2nd pitch. Due to rock fall.

barrowclough 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Kaiser999 ?/Aug/15 2nd
with Adam Richardson
Lumbering Oaf 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Batt 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Another awesome route. Just enough ledgey bits for shaking out the pump in the first half.

Hoyes 20/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
rd20 18/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Perhaps my best route of 2014

with Patrick
Hoyes 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Richard W
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
khalidq 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with James Hall
Andy Moles 09/Sep/14 2nd
with Pimpy
pimpy 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 07/Sep/14 2nd

Pretty sustained. Tough moves at the top with great finger locks in the crack.

Alex Winter 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant, sustained climbing. High in the grade.

with Nick
ferdia 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Hertha
burto 03/Sep/14 2nd
with malc
Shea 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Cool climbing, holds just appear when you want it! Fantastic

AndyL 01/Sep/14 2nd β
with seamus
James Oswald ?/Sep/14 Lead

As good as I remembered, great sustained climbing.

Mr Powly ?/Sep/14 2nd
with Rozzy
Jules Lane ?/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Fantastic dynamic climbing on great holds. The last part did not seem the hardest as although its the steepest part, the holds are most adequate.

with Mark Proctor
Tom Brierley Gore ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
AndyL 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
guy757 20/Aug/14 -
RFWilkie 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S

What an amazing route, quite sustained but super well protected.

with James, Bec
Dave Musgrove 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A Superb and well sustained pitch.

with Dave Platt
Stroppy 04/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Godd effort Sam! We agreed that the guidebbok seemed a little misleading when it says hard start and finish, it all seems about the same difficulty throughout, albeit with a few good rests on small ledges. Very well protected.

Sam Husband 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S

First legit E1 (Cenotaph Corner seeming too easy, the Amone Slab being bolted and Strapiombante having been a repeat). Swore a lot. There are miny cruxes everywhere so don't place your gear expecting the bits the guidebook says are hard to be there. Lots of places to rest though so I managed to place tonnes of gear. The climbing is three stars but it's not as spectacular as other 3 star routes being tucked up the side of a gully.

with Ed
adie84 ??/2014 -
alastairbegley 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great route, didn't have much left to give by the top

fishinwater 23/Sep/13 2nd
with Al Begley
Dan 85 16/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ed
tonevert 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Patricia, jeremy
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead RP
Brian Rodgers 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Esther Bott, Simon Pape
Hidden 11/Sep/13 2nd dnf
Tala M 30/Aug/13 2nd dog

Gutted I ended up on the left of the crack and used a hand jam to move across but not the correct way around so it slipped out. Great route though.

Justin Shiels 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd rpt
masa-alpin 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S

The holds were not obvious, when looking up, but they were often better than my expectation. Brilliant route.

with Ingrid C
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gibsond 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Great climb.

James Oswald 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great climbing up the cracks. No jamming needed. Hard sections between rests on perfect rock. 3* status deserved.

with Gwilym
Happy Wanderer 15/Sep/12 2nd dog

*$!t I found that hard to second!

with Rob Tresize, Mark H
Hidden 11/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/12 2nd
rd20 10/Sep/12 2nd dog

Tried leading. Went way off course. Fell. Dan got gear.

with Dan G
Kevster 10/Sep/12 2nd
with Will T
dan gibson 10/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with robert dufton
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Misha 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S

First route on Lundy. A bit harsh as a warm up as it's a tough E1 but F1 is no more (I belayed on it...). Good moves and pretty sustained apart from a couple of ledges but not really a 3 star line, particularly as very close to the VS grotty corner in its lower section, so I'd say only 2 stars.

with Phil
philhilo 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Good climbing if a bit close to the dirty corner.

with misha
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Martin Cooper
Graeme Hammond 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Excellent :)

Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead
Dan Lane 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S

After failing to finish the route on two previous attempts (down-climbed rather than falling off so not lot the onsight) i finally got up it this year. Really hot though, only the top 15 feet were in the sun but i was dripping with sweat at the top. we ate ice cream for the rest of the day...one of the best routes I've ever done. even if it was a bit of a battle!

with Ruth Taylor, Andy Turner
Ian Jones 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Harder than The Strand

with Colonel Sir Timothy Clarke C.E.O., Brigadier Sir Roger Benton
Hidden 05/Aug/12 2nd
timmsy 24/May/12 AltLd dog
Kaiser999 ??/2012 2nd
with Jim
cymjt ??/2012 -
Jim Slater 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Nice moves, steady E1, felt soft for the grade.

Hidden 14/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Andy Clarke 06/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Steep and positive. Classic.

with SGD, Tim
SGD 06/Sep/11 2nd

Great route, steep but always with a good hold nearby

Dale ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S

best route of this hol, took me 4 attempts to climb this, first attempt it starting raining after doing a wet road runner. Second there was a que after doing formula 1. Third andy abbed in down hot rod, and had to go up rope to get out staring raining hard hot rodded out of there. When I eventually got to climb it big seas ment it was very greasy, made it more fun for me

with mike
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Glyn 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Luke, Barni
Luke Brooks 21/Aug/11 2nd
with Glyn Hudson, Barni
kdalzell 21/Aug/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 20/Aug/11 Lead
with karen dalzell
spondulix 19/Aug/11 2nd β
with Carol, Ben
Hidden 18/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/11 Lead dnf
givemetea 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Craig Jenkins
Chris Sansum 02/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Gary Lewin
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/11 2nd
with Gavin Moy
soph ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
timtimpeggy ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 07/Sep/10 2nd O/S
benkelsey 07/Sep/10 Lead O/S

very pumpy - not my style but gave it a go placing loads of gear. ended up being in the top 5 climbs i've ever done, it is so good!

Kevster ?/Sep/10 Lead
Homes 27/Aug/10 2nd
with Shaun M
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd
Helen Gibson 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Richard
3 Names 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd O/S
irish paul 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Jess Christley 31/May/10 2nd
with Sarah Joyce
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
Rob84 30/May/10 2nd O/S
with Mike Thomas
Hidden 25/May/10 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/09 Lead β
Joris.Roulleau 21/Sep/09 Lead O/S

had seconded it a few days earlier. Put too much gear in, got pumped

with Chris F, Mike Redmayne
fchris 21/Sep/09 2nd O/S
dicky79 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Sloane, Mark Nicholson
Andrew Sloan 17/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead dog
richw2k2 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Tom
Mark Warnett ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

brilliant brilliant wall climbing

PanzerHanzler 19/Aug/09 2nd dog

Misread the final moves - damn it.

with Martin Hore, Steve Culverhouse
Different Steve 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Hansler & Martin Hore
Hidden 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/09 Lead
gazlad ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

good exciting fun

with wetton
Spillers ?/Aug/09 2nd
with Stavvy
gripped01 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Stew Boyce
Jillybean 08/Jul/09 2nd
with Tom Dixion and Steve Franklin
Hidden 08/Jul/09 2nd O/S
lukea 30/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Al
greedo ??/2009 2nd
with Martin hoare
Hidden 16/Sep/08 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Super

Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
AJ007 30/Aug/08 2nd
with Dan
dan gibson 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with AJ
Bristoldave 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with douglas
zero six ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?/Jul/08 Lead

superb crack climbing; one the best E1s I've done

with Andy Neath
Shaw Brown 10/May/08 Lead

No need to go off right to the wide crack as stated earlier, top is clean and good.

with Jeb
Coel Hellier 03/May/08 Lead
with Richard
Tim Steward 16/Mar/08 -
with Helen Alderson
Al Evans ??/2008 -
John Kettle ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
jak.kelly 30/Aug/07 2nd β
with Gareth Jones
jak.kelly 28/Aug/07 Lead dnf

Went off route, onto the VS

with Gareth Jones, Dave Lacey
Chad123 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Needs a clean as hard to get onto top headwall, most people seem to finish up the dirty wide crack instead.

with Jo
Hidden 05/Aug/07 2nd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Steve Crowe ??/2007 Lead O/S

circa 2007

with KM
Hidden 05/Sep/06 2nd rpt
lost.arrow 03/Sep/06 AltLd
with Richard Ball
HughM ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with notgnarly
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
feilx ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Neil Ireson 20/Sep/05 Lead
with John & Jane
Dave Reeve ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 09/Sep/04 Lead O/S

My first extreme! At the time it was definately the best route I'd ever done. 9am no warmup.

with Craven MC
cem 13/Aug/04 Lead rpt
with Dave Amos
Hidden ?/Aug/04 2nd
leadmat ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Dr James Armstrong
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 18/Sep/03 AltLd
Hidden 13/Sep/03 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/02 2nd
cem 07/Sep/02 2nd rpt
cem 17/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Chris Thorpe
Roget 05/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with jim
LC ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
Hidden 13/Sep/00 2nd O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
with Carl
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2000 -
Hidden 17/Sep/99 Lead
WB ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Frostie ?/Aug/99 Lead
Derek Furze ?/Aug/99 -
Just Another Dave ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Jo Bertalot
Hidden 02/Sep/98 Lead O/S
Paul-Michael 04/Aug/98 2nd O/S
with Steve Newman, Nick Hanie
andy_pemberton ?/Aug/98 Lead
with Rik Meek
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
VPJB ??/1998 -
Hidden 16/Aug/97 2nd
Pete Nugent 09/Aug/97 2nd rpt
with Kath Brannigan, Phil?, Tony Madden
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
colin milton 04/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with eric milton
eroica64 ?/Sep/96 AltLd O/S

Bold, big holds, big pro and fun!

with Denis Crampton
snowcat 29/Aug/96 2nd
with Chris Schiller
lost.arrow 25/Aug/96 -
with Iain Kerr
Pete Nugent 19/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Tom Phillips
Simon cook ?/Aug/96 -
Hidden 17/Aug/95 Lead
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Martin Bennett 03/Aug/93 -
with Paul Taylor
RichardMc 12/Sep/92 2nd
with John Evans
whispering nic 07/Sep/92 Lead
with Ali W
Hidden ?/Aug/92 -
mattnuttall 17/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 01/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/91 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/91 Lead
NickJH ??/1991 -
Stoney Boy 16/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 16/Aug/90 2nd
Steve Bell ??/1990 -
BigHairyIan 26/Mar/89 Lead RP

Magnificent route! One of the best that I have done!

with Alan Lilley (Thug)
Hidden 19/Sep/88 Lead
Bruce Kerr 09/Aug/88 Lead
with Dave Simmonds
Mike Owen 31/Jul/88 -
with Elaine Owen
andy gittins ??/1988 -
steve taylor ??/1987 Lead
with Mike Beresford
ukb shark 17/Aug/86 2nd
with Grin
Tom V ?/Aug/86 -
wynaptomos ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with .
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Chris Ebbutt, petecallaghan, Hidden, Barrie Schofield II, Will Mortimer, Ravenonthewire, alexjz, Hexman, Hidden, David Woods, mapperley samurai, Kate Edhouse, hutchay, StuartP, jezb1, Hidden, Hidden, Jon_dL, Hidden, Hidden, oliverk, Master Chief, Hidden, Hidden, woodsy, Alan100, Ian Jones, iceaxejuggler, Hidden, Hidden, JWB, James B, Hidden, Scott McRae, Hidden, jak.kelly, rob askew
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 60
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 58
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set