25m. The true direct start, without recourse to the gully on the right is not well protected. Many people climb up Gaucho and place a high runner before joining the Pillar about 5m up. Naughty of them. The 5a variation higher up keeps left. The crag classic.

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Central Belt - Local Classics, Very good routes in the UK, World Graded List, Lowland Outcrops 2004 Pictured climbs.

peterjph 03/Nov Lead
with euan moir
fuzzysheep01 01/Nov Lead O/S
with Noemie Ajenjo
MightyStew 13/Oct Lead rpt
with Ashleigh
Hidden 05/Oct 2nd
el diablo 29/Sep Lead
with Al Sanders
IanMcC 29/Sep 2nd

Top half- high tide.

with DaveM, Jimbo
Hidden 29/Sep Lead
Elsier 27/Sep 2nd
with Adrian
gavinpeach 17/Sep Lead O/S

Direct start and keeping left higher up direct through the crack.

with Dave Gillen
Benjamin Muis 16/Sep 2nd
MikwWebster 15/Sep 2nd
with Ian
Fiona Reid 08/Sep 2nd
with Mike
Mike-W-99 08/Sep Lead rpt
with Fiona
Hidden 08/Sep 2nd O/S
Andy Hewison 08/Sep 2nd
fall-line 05/Sep 2nd
with Alice
alice_loudon 05/Sep Lead O/S
with Donald
mikewilson789 01/Sep Lead β
with Andy Woolston
Hidden ?/Sep Lead
Hidden ?/Sep 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep Lead
MikwWebster 31/Aug Lead O/S
with Ian
Jamie Johnston 23/Aug Lead
Hidden 23/Aug 2nd
Jamie Johnston 19/Aug 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug Lead
Sam Shilliday 19/Aug 2nd

Started to the right then up onto the pillar.

skirton 19/Aug Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Aug Lead
Mr.Billiams 16/Aug 2nd
with Russell
pdamann 13/Aug Lead β
with T Kinnaird
Chad123 12/Aug DWS dnf

Got to within a few metres of the top but didn't fancy one move, felt a bit high for DWS terrain! Great climbing up to there though, need my braver head on....

with Emily
wookie667 12/Aug Lead
with hay
Hidden 12/Aug Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Aug 2nd rpt
ChrisH89 09/Aug Lead O/S
Elsier 09/Aug Lead rpt
with Charlotte, Jo
tom.dodo 09/Aug 2nd O/S

Fantastic route, exposed but very satisfying!

with Chris
Doby 09/Aug 2nd O/S
with Charlotte, Elsie
Hidden 09/Aug Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul 2nd
LHumble 25/Jul 2nd O/S
with Shed
jacobfinn 15/Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Jul Lead G/U
canadiansushi 15/Jul 2nd β
gscw 14/Jul Lead

Direct start for the first time.

with Sonja
ClareM.123 09/Jul 2nd rpt
calum404 09/Jul Lead rpt
adamarchie 05/Jul Lead

Second VS lead! Started up the Gaucho corner for better pro then moved left onto the pillar, continuing on it right to the top (surprisingly good holds on that final bit, making the easy escape to the left less tempting!) Crux was just at the bottom of the black section where I moved up-down, left-right quite a few times (I did gently hold onto a bit of gear there at one point, not to use for a move though) before figuring out I could stuff in a high cam, giving me the confidence to commit to something - can't remember how I solved it! Good climbing thereafter, including the best rest ever, a cheval/humping the pillar! "Five points of contact" / "Intimate" were among the comments coming from below. Put in just about every Wallnut I had - no shortage of gear. Great!

Hidden 05/Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Jul 2nd
Rollo Rolo 03/Jul 2nd O/S
with Alex
ClimbingGlen 30/Jun Lead rpt

Last climb of the night and always the best with the view!

with Anna, Agnieszka
Agnieszka 30/Jun 2nd O/S

Great views!

with Anna, Glen
herrettscott 30/Jun Lead rpt
with Cat
lorens holm 28/Jun Lead O/S
with Euan
gjd 27/Jun 2nd rpt
with Brian H
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
eilidh_m 25/Jun 2nd O/S
with Willie Milne
Elsier 20/Jun 2nd rpt
with Kevin, Rebecca
seanhendo123 20/Jun Lead rpt

Direct start

with Sarah
Hidden 20/Jun Lead O/S
Mike-W-99 16/Jun 2nd
with mark, Fiona
Fiona Reid 16/Jun Lead rpt

Left hand variation

with Mike
JoeDickens 16/Jun Lead O/S
fall-line 16/Jun 2nd
with Anne Peale, Damon Davies
annep11 16/Jun Lead O/S
m675bowsl 16/Jun 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun 2nd
Mark Bull 16/Jun 2nd

LH variation

with MikeW, Fiona
Andy Hewison 16/Jun Lead
with Drew Connelly
jev 14/Jun 2nd rpt
with Sian
frecro 10/Jun -
with Sinclair
Hidden 10/Jun Lead
mishabruml 10/Jun Lead O/S

A lot more pleasant than the first time I tried it, still felt sustained and a bit runout in the middle though. Hanging belay coz of the tide, and a passing boat soaked Monica which made it worth it... hehe ;)

Stuart Macfarlane 03/Jun 2nd
with Jeanie
Sarah Greenwood 23/May Lead O/S
Fibie 23/May 2nd dog
with GGS
Andrew23 23/May Lead rpt
with David, Patri, Emma Bush
Andy Hewison 23/May Lead
with Mark Gear
TwoChimes 23/May Lead
with Fibie
Mark Bull 13/May 2nd
with Mike
Andy Hewison 09/May Lead O/S
with Harry Mc
herrettscott 09/May Lead O/S
with Oli
Chuck 05/May Lead
Hidden 04/May Lead O/S
fionamossman ?/May 2nd

Anders led this, had his eye on it for years--great climb and very pleased.

with Anders
olekemi 26/Apr 2nd rpt
with Robin W, Mark G
HaddRoots 25/Apr Lead O/S
MightyStew 25/Apr 2nd rpt
IanMcC 23/Apr 2nd
with KeithR, Jimbo
Hidden 23/Apr Lead
crustypunkuk 23/Apr -
IanMcC 10/Apr Lead
with Jimbo
Hidden 10/Apr 2nd
MightyStew 06/Apr Lead rpt
Sara 06/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Mar 2nd O/S
mishabruml 28/Mar Lead O/S

Bloody hell. Absolute brownpoint. Wind was gusting 40+ kts, got pumped to fuck messing about with gear, climbing up then down 3 times trying to pass tricky bits + clinging on from the wind made rests impossible. thought I was about to drop off at the steep crux and plummet onto my crappy gear. never been more glad to top out in my life

Hidden 25/Mar -
dmacmorris 10/Mar 2nd O/S

Wasn't overall impressed TBH but i guess it's nice climbing on great rock.

Hidden 10/Mar Lead O/S
tom dean gately 05/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Natalie Berry - UKC 30/Nov/14 2nd O/S
peterjph 09/Nov/14 2nd O/S
with david lilly, Chris Barnett
CaelanB 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 29/Oct/14 2nd
Andy Hewison 18/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Love this climb

with Steve T
Hidden ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Sep/14 2nd
Chad123 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt

Classic line, would be great solo....

with JonnoP, Zoe
JonnoP 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Zoe S
MightyStew 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
fuzzysheep01 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Simon
marshallb93 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 -
Daniela Balslev 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S

We had to leave a nut in, I jammed it too hard in I guess. If someone finds it/takes it out and is anywhere around Dundee/St Andrews, please drop me a message.

with Caya
Hidden 18/Aug/14 2nd rpt
u00 17/Aug/14 Lead rpt
el diablo 15/Aug/14 2nd
with John Sanders, Al Sanders
daftendirekt 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
David Woods 09/Aug/14 Lead

A little windy

with Dave Barber, Euan Maharg
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead β
Hidden 07/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 2nd
mike_tamanawis 29/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Alasdair Burns, Andreas B
MightyStew 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Alastair R 24/Jul/14 Lead
with Iain
mhowie 24/Jul/14 2nd
with Niall
keith hal 23/Jul/14 Lead

First VS 4C lead. Did direct start.

with martin
martinh13 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Keith
Mike-W-99 22/Jul/14 2nd
with mark, Fiona
Fiona Reid 22/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Mike, Mark
Mark Bull 22/Jul/14 2nd
with MikeW, Fiona
Andy Hewison 21/Jul/14 Lead β

No cheating - straight up the front. Climbed the crux better than the rest. Great climb

with Neale
holly138 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tom B
Manix 20/Jul/14 2nd
with Alan Verona
Roberttaylor 20/Jul/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
damondavies 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S
ajt68 10/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead rpt
jjax 06/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Seemed so much harder after 10 months away from climbing. David started off up the right gully before traversing left so of course I had to follow.

with David2
Michael Haywood 01/Jul/14 2nd
with Damon Rodwell
OMara81 ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead
Mike-W-99 25/Jun/14 2nd
with mark
Mark Bull 25/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Left hand finish

with MikeW
el diablo 24/Jun/14 2nd
with Al Sanders
daWalt 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Lisa
The Big Sender 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Freddie 1 18/Jun/14 2nd O/S

wet feet on belay due to a tide miscalculation...

with Andyh83
Hidden 12/Jun/14 -
IanMcC 11/Jun/14 2nd
with Stuart Macfarlane, Jeannie
Stuart Macfarlane 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Jeanie, Cabey
oliverk 10/Jun/14 2nd
with Stuart, Pam
Hidden 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pamvdb17 10/Jun/14 2nd
with Stuart, Ollie
Macleod 08/Jun/14 -
with Brendan Bailey, Ian Rickerby
u00 02/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Andrew23 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Wood, Jess S, Andy Berry
ClimbingGlen 30/May/14 Lead rpt
ClimbingGlen 21/May/14 Lead rpt

Abseiled in as high tide, hanging belay.

Agnieszka 21/May/14 2nd O/S

abseiled in, hanging belay, lost a nut :(

with Glen
Hidden 21/May/14 Lead rpt
Busby 17/May/14 Lead
barney_edin 17/May/14 Lead
with Jude
Jude 17/May/14 2nd O/S
Fiona Reid 14/May/14 Lead rpt
with Mike
Mike-W-99 14/May/14 2nd
with Fiona
abbeywall 14/May/14 Lead
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead rpt
keith hal 14/May/14 2nd O/S
with Alison&Martin
martinh13 14/May/14 2nd
with Alison
Hidden 12/May/14 2nd rpt
CurlyStevo 02/May/14 Lead
with Kenny
Hidden 29/Apr/14 -
Luci 21/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/14 Lead
IanMcC 20/Apr/14 2nd
with Jimbo
Hidden 15/Apr/14 -
alex toomey 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
ClimbingGlen 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Susan Pinkney, Teresa Torrents
m675bowsl 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Tamsin
MagentaSue 23/Mar/14 2nd
with Teresa Torrents, Glen Dickson
Hidden 13/Mar/14 -
allyrocke 12/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Clement Hutin
Hidden 11/Mar/14 Lead
mynyddresident 10/Mar/14 -
with KP
seanhendo123 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

'warm up' . . . hands were numb from half way! nice route though with good exposure

with Emeric
Hidden 07/Feb/14 -
sebbi30 ??/2014 Lead
el diablo 10/Nov/13 Lead
with Al Sanders, John Sanders
Heggie 09/Nov/13 Lead
with Calum Irvine
Hidden 08/Oct/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Sep/13 -
Hidden 23/Sep/13 -
M Mathieson 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Tash
jesss 03/Sep/13 2nd

So much fun. One of the best single pitch routes I've done so far!

darunniff ?/Sep/13 Lead
with Lia, Mark attenburrow, james frood
tronardcohen 30/Aug/13 -
Hidden 30/Aug/13 2nd
Tim Hamlet 26/Aug/13 Lead

great VS. lots of gear.

with Bruce Hood
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
GraemeDiack 25/Aug/13 AltLd β
with Sarah, Keith Alexander
Fiona Reid 19/Aug/13 2nd
with Mike
Mike-W-99 19/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Fiona
jacobfinn 16/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with jjax
jjax 16/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Dont know why it took me so long to pluck up the courage to lead this. Tricky start otherwise great climb with loads of gear.

with jason
arose 13/Aug/13 Lead
RocKalina 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Fiona Reid 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Mike
Mike-W-99 06/Aug/13 2nd
with Fiona
jacobfinn 27/Jul/13 2nd rpt
jjax 27/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with ross, jason
Shea 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Good climb. Fun.

Shea 21/Jul/13 Solo

Soloed after leading it. Pretty spectacular

ieuanr 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Went a bit wrong near the downward pointing spike under pull. Ended up going round right using a fist jam in a triangular slot. Haha. Made it tricky for myself. Should've gone left a bit. Fun climb.

ChristineR 21/Jul/13 TR O/S
with ieuan, seamus
James90 16/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Marnoch
mhamiltonj 16/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with James
skirton 15/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Jamie Smith
mhamiltonj 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Milesy 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Brian
Brian Pollock 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
David Stevens 13/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Marnoch Hamillton-Jones, Toby Willis
Hidden 12/Jul/13 2nd
ClareM.123 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S
calum404 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S
mot1 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
PittPauly 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S

rope drag too high.. evil zigzag.

with Gordon McAllan
Hidden 08/Jul/13 2nd dog
sting 07/Jul/13 TR
with Mike Sender, Mike Traxion
Peter Metcalfe 06/Jul/13 Lead

Tide coming in as we did this. Excellent route.

JohnMetcalfe 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Peter Metcalfe
ANC 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S

First Climb at Hawcraig

with Louise Humphreys
louise123 05/Jul/13 2nd β
Hidden 03/Jul/13 Lead rpt
remi_mcm 03/Jul/13 2nd
martinh13 03/Jul/13 2nd
with Chris
crispy 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/13 2nd
a.m.k. 03/Jul/13 2nd
Emma Armstrong ?/Jul/13 -
Elsier 30/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Adrian
stevelismore 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Very vertical! Stuck a side runner in for start.

with James L
Stuart Macfarlane 18/Jun/13 2nd
with Jeanie
Hidden 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/13 Lead
jamesgr87 17/Jun/13 Lead rpt
jev 16/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with James
johannes 16/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Direct start. Good fun, but starting up the gully is the more logical line imo.

James90 16/Jun/13 2nd
with jev
Hidden 16/Jun/13 2nd O/S
TwoChimes 16/Jun/13 -
TwoChimes 16/Jun/13 -
JosefGoeth 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S
sandynorval 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Second ever lead, v. windy, did the direct start.

with Fraser
girlymonkey 07/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Siderunner 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Louise
el diablo 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Cabey
IanMcC 04/Jun/13 Lead
planetmarshall 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S

First VS lead. Might have done the left hand variation but can't be sure.

with Oliver Kenyon, Tim Elson
oliverk 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Andrew, Tim E
eve29 03/Jun/13 2nd
with Andy
centurion05 03/Jun/13 Lead
with Yvonne
DundeeDave 02/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
ross brinson 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Hannah Watson
Pohil 30/May/13 Lead
Pohil 30/May/13 Lead
Andy Hewison 26/May/13 2nd rpt
with Neale
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead
Mark Bull 22/May/13 2nd
with Mike
colin8ll 15/May/13 Lead rpt
with Lia Guest
Hidden 15/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/13 Lead
Fiona Reid 07/May/13 2nd

Via left hand variation

with Mark
Mark Bull 07/May/13 Lead rpt

Left hand variation

with Fiona
Hidden 07/May/13 Lead
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
eckymof 06/May/13 -
Hidden 02/May/13 2nd
Joe42m ?/May/13 2nd
with srbryan
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd
jamesgr87 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Direct start

with Andy
Fiona Reid 24/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Mike
Mike-W-99 24/Apr/13 2nd
with Fiona
Gabe Oliver 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Accidentally did this instead of Pain Pillar. Pleasant surprise but barely an HVS. Nice but windy evening

Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Callum T 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Henry O'Brien, Alistair Macey
David Stevens 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jo Dungl
ClimbingGlen 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, protection just where you need it most, with good bold moves.

with Teresa Torrents
Roberttaylor 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 19/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/13 2nd
fuzzysheep01 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Direct start

with Tabby, Tom Codrington
tcn_2002 06/Apr/13 Lead
with Joe Norris, Tabitha Standish-Hayes
robertmichaeladams 06/Apr/13 Lead
with Bex, Andi
James90 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mhamiltonj 04/Apr/13 2nd
with James
alexmcmillan 01/Apr/13 2nd O/S
mattking_109 01/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Alex M
Hugh Macgregor ?/Apr/13 Lead
skirton 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
fall-line 17/Feb/13 2nd
with Sarah Kirton
James90 03/Feb/13 Lead O/S
jev 03/Feb/13 2nd rpt
radioshed 05/Jan/13 2nd O/S
David Stevens 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Matt Craig, Andrew Whale
captain ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
SUColdo ??/2013 -
james1978 ??/2013 -
Katherine Ross 16/Dec/12 Lead β

Great route! Perhaps more awkward for the short?

Danielle Arnott 16/Dec/12 2nd O/S
Fiona Reid 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Mike, Alison
Mike-W-99 21/Oct/12 2nd
Paul Symmers 21/Oct/12 2nd rpt
abbeywall 21/Oct/12 2nd
with Mike, Fiona
abbeywall 21/Oct/12 2nd
with Fiona
KeithAlexander 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Yourlead 15/Oct/12 2nd
with Graham Penny, Paul Freeman
Nille 07/Oct/12 Lead β
with Aleksandra, johannes
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead β
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead
mattking_109 02/Sep/12 Lead
Hjbvet 01/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/12 -
Fiona Reid 30/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Mike
Hidden 30/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Mike-W-99 30/Aug/12 2nd
with Fiona
Hidden 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
oliverk 28/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Fiona Reid 14/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Mike
Mike-W-99 14/Aug/12 2nd
with Fiona
Craig Holden 07/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Tasmin 07/Aug/12 2nd
lostmariner ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
lostmariner ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
UncleMephisto ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Finished as moon rose over the Forth...very atmospheric

with Rachel Rosen
Hidden 31/Jul/12 2nd rpt
abbeywall 31/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
mike_tamanawis 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Started at the right side of the lower pillar, but didn't place gear in Gaucho as there was a small nut placement in a wee crack about 3m up. Bit scary there.. Nice airyness higher up, despite the rain showers.

Davy B 28/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/12 2nd
girlymonkey 25/Jul/12 2nd
yehti 25/Jul/12 Lead
Laura Hamlet 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Iain Snell
Fiona Reid 17/Jul/12 2nd
with Mike
Mike-W-99 17/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Fiona
Baggie 16/Jul/12 Lead

I think I did direct. Tough start, ended up going off route to Guano half way up, all in all an exciting climb!

Tom Baird 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Harry Cripps
Hidden 12/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Doby 12/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Great last climb of the day. Went off to the right at the start.

with Stuart, Ian B
Hidden 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/12 2nd
freyja 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S

brass offset can protect the start, wouldn't call this an HVS..

with gabe
Harry Holmes 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Madeliene Berg, Joanna
horsefeathers 12/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Madeleine, Harry
Mike-W-99 09/Jun/12 2nd
with Fiona
Fiona Reid 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Discovered this can be climbed in the rain if required...blooming weather

with Mike
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd rpt
crombie 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt

naughty but nice

with Lee
cjohn62 03/Jun/12 2nd
with graeme
Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
andymoin 24/May/12 2nd rpt
with Fox, Neil Mackenzie
Neil Mackenzie 24/May/12 2nd rpt
with Fox Lu, Andy
65m moderate millington 22/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead O/S
mhowie 21/May/12 2nd
with Niall
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/May/12 Lead rpt
niallk 12/May/12 2nd

On second today. First VS lead some years back.

with Pam
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead rpt
karinh 12/May/12 2nd O/S
with Iain Smith
iceicebaby 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Great route, but I was a wee bit spooked by the wind blowing me around near the top section!

Hidden 12/May/12 2nd
GraemeDiack 12/May/12 Lead β

Great climb

with Chris
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Ross Young 09/May/12 2nd rpt
with Rob HWUMC, Dave HWUMC
David Stevens 09/May/12 2nd rpt
with Rob Chase, Ross Young
Paul Symmers 28/Apr/12 2nd rpt

Done with proper start this time

Hidden 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Mike-W-99 22/Apr/12 2nd
with mark, Fiona
Fiona Reid 22/Apr/12 2nd

Mark's lead. Just escaped getting rather wet feet belaying due to the incoming tide...

with Mike, Mark
Paul Symmers 22/Apr/12 2nd

started on the ledge 1/3 of the way up as tide was too high

Mark Bull 22/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with MikeW, Fiona
hedgehog_john 21/Apr/12 Lead

First VS lead. It rained. A lot!

with Tim R
Hidden 17/Apr/12 2nd O/S
fall-line 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Andy Wank
ukinio 12/Apr/12 Lead O/S
liz77 08/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Tom
Tom Baird 08/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Liz
Cassidy 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Stuart Macfarlane 01/Apr/12 2nd
with Jeanie
hedgehog_john 01/Apr/12 2nd
with Tim R
son of thor ?/Apr/12 -
Liam Ingram 29/Mar/12 Lead rpt
krasavenko 29/Mar/12 2nd rpt
catrin289 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Mhairi G 24/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Brendan
JonmapDL 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S

great exposure, easier than i thought it would be

with lizzie W, matt king
mattking_109 22/Mar/12 2nd
with Jon DL
Milesy 21/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Patrick
mshorter 18/Mar/12 Lead
with erika
Andy Hewison 11/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Steve T
Gary Macaulay 25/Feb/12 2nd
with Peter Berwick
allyrocke 15/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Morgan Orr 15/Feb/12 2nd
horsefeathers 01/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Harry
mattking_109 ?/Feb/12 2nd
adie84 ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
el diablo 20/Nov/11 Lead
with Dave M
nich0las 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Catriona C
nich0las 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Catriona C
baileyswalk 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/11 2nd
jordanmatthewdavies 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Will Lee
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead
madeleine 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Fiona Reid 09/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Mike, Florian
Mike-W-99 09/Aug/11 2nd
with Flo, Fiona
el diablo 06/Aug/11 2nd
with John Sanders
liz77 06/Aug/11 2nd
with HRC
olekemi 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jamie L
Hidden 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Fiona Reid 27/Jul/11 2nd
with Mike
Mike-W-99 27/Jul/11 Lead
with Fiona
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead rpt
OZZY1962 27/Jul/11 2nd
martinh13 27/Jul/11 2nd
with Chris
Neil Anderson from Hilton 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Tracey K
JonnoP 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead
dctarrant2000 17/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Polly Tarrant
kagreen 15/Jul/11 Lead
with Mike Barnard
Hidden 14/Jul/11 2nd
Stuart Macfarlane 13/Jul/11 2nd
with Jeanie
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead RP
robmack 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
robertmichaeladams 11/Jul/11 2nd
with Ben, Lawrence
wence 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Rob
Macleod 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S

really quite exposed feeling

Macleod 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S

direct, no runner in gaucho, see pain pillar proper.

Hidden 03/Jul/11 Solo O/S
johnrc 01/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with auggy
johnrc 01/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with auggy
morsy 01/Jul/11 Lead

took me ages

with andy buckley
andybuckley 01/Jul/11 2nd

Stephen led up the groove to the right and crossed left to the pillar, I seconded the direct start and then fetched his gear. Bit scary at bottom and top, but I must lead it sometime!

Rockhoonds ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with tim
Mike-W-99 29/Jun/11 Lead
with Fiona
liz77 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Chris
Fiona Reid 29/Jun/11 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 29/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/11 2nd
crombie 28/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Paul
abbeywall 28/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with M
Hidden 24/Jun/11 2nd
crombie 24/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Lee
Ross Young 24/Jun/11 2nd rpt
samuskus 20/Jun/11 2nd
IanMcC 15/Jun/11 2nd
el diablo 15/Jun/11 Lead
with Craig Pritchard, Cabey
Fiona Reid 14/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Mike
Mike-W-99 14/Jun/11 2nd
with Fiona
mwicks1968 10/Jun/11 2nd dog

Jon P lead, Neal B removed the gear, I rested halfway up!

JP78 10/Jun/11 Lead
Koon 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S

quite tough to begin with with little gear. Very nice climbing after that. An old nut is stuck there 2/3rd way up.

with Jim
melville18 04/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with jacqueline, claire melville
jjax 03/Jun/11 2nd rpt
jacobfinn 02/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with jjax
cat22 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Stuart
sophiecb 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sean
jjax 02/Jun/11 2nd rpt

went up the right hand side of the piller, loads of gear and good holds. not brave enough to lead yet.

with jason
OZZY1962 ?/Jun/11 TR RP


Snap 31/May/11 2nd O/S
with Rab
Hidden 30/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 2nd O/S
el diablo 25/May/11 2nd
with Dave M, Cabey
IanMcC 25/May/11 Lead
with DaveM, eldiablo
henning82 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd
Hidden 21/May/11 -
Stuart Macfarlane 19/May/11 2nd

Led by Jeanie.

with Jeanie, Nigel W
oliverk 03/May/11 Lead
with Lucy, Sarah Moorhouse
JdotP 03/May/11 Lead O/S

I think the proper start is maybe a bit high in the grade for VS 4c but I wouldn't go as far as to give it HVS 5a.

with Graham Pearson
Graham Pearson 03/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/May/11 TR
mhowie 01/May/11 2nd
with Niall
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
RoscoJB 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/11 2nd
HeatReactor 27/Apr/11 2nd β
Mark Bull 27/Apr/11 2nd
with Mike
Elsier 24/Apr/11 2nd
with Ian
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
rcammack 24/Apr/11 Solo rpt
arduff 24/Apr/11 Lead
with Chales Kennelly
Tom Baird 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

In the rain. Fun.

codgio 23/Apr/11 2nd
JasonK 22/Apr/11 Lead
with Tori King
jamestheyip 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Laing
Iain2754 22/Apr/11 Lead
with Lee
Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/11 TR
Thoms6974 12/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Dave S
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
David Stevens 12/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Liam Ingram 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Sarah Lund
Pat-H 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with mhairi
Mhairi G 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Patrick
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
crombie 08/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Michelle, Lee
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead
pdamann 03/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Ross Young 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Susanj21 22/Mar/11 2nd dog
Steve Lenartowicz 22/Mar/11 -
franksnb 20/Mar/11 2nd
with Emma, keith
R0bbie 27/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with lucy
Luci 27/Feb/11 2nd
with Robbie
Hidden 26/Feb/11 TR
Hidden 26/Feb/11 TR
tomosb 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Darren Thompson
Hidden ??/2011 -
andrew75 ??/2011 Lead
adie84 ??/2011 -
MonkeyDawson ??/2011 -
AG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
lisafer ??/2011 -
MonkeyDawson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
el diablo 13/Nov/10 Lead

Very windy and cold

with Dave M
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
sebrider 30/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Ross
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
melville18 17/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with claire melville, jacqueline
jjax 17/Oct/10 2nd

fantastic climb even if it was blowing a gail and hands were freezing

Hidden 03/Oct/10 2nd
SianR 03/Oct/10 Lead


with Emily
chrism225 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Jen Trendall, polly, dave
hepy 21/Sep/10 TR
Harry Holmes 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
craig cameron 16/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/10 Lead β
Dr Toph 03/Sep/10 Solo O/S

crackin route

MelH 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S

I think the direct start does warrant the grade cos the bottom is very bold. Climbing straightforward though and once you get in a second piece of gear that will actually stop you decking out it is plain sailing to the top. Lovely route. :D

with Sonj
Hidden 31/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Mark Bull 24/Aug/10 2nd
with Mike
make 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with mez
Hidden 19/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Lead
krusty23 17/Aug/10 2nd

Incoming tide, climbed around to retrieve the bags!

with Ian, Charlie Mackie
Mike-W-99 15/Aug/10 2nd
with Fiona
Fiona Reid 15/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Direct start as always

with Mike
Mike-W-99 15/Aug/10 2nd
with Fiona
Robo17 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S

second on this route

with john cummings
johnrc 08/Aug/10 TR O/S

tide was in sadly so had to tr it.. preety straight forward apart from the 50kg boulder that fell off at the crux!

with john
johnrc 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

went for overhang then left ... didnt get the guidebook.. is this a 5a route?

with john
KatBlum ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
climberuk 31/Jul/10 Lead β

Lots of gear. Only 1 slightly tricky move.

Seconded with Alan on 11/05/08:
Great climb. Feels very exposed. Climbing is tough but enjoyable. Looking forward to leading it.

with Sarah B, Alan, Niall
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd rpt
robertmichaeladams 28/Jul/10 AltLd

two pitch adventure version to traverse in above the sea

with Tom
s crombie 28/Jul/10 2nd
climbfan 26/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Peter lead for me and Gaz to second. Gaz unable to climb, so took rest of gear out on my lead.

with Peter
climbfan 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nice first VS lead. Nothing too hard on the climb.

with Peter
Hidden 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S
zoeduffin 22/Jul/10 Lead β

nice exposed climb. good gear!

Hidden 20/Jul/10 Lead rpt
gjd 18/Jul/10 2nd
thebat 18/Jul/10 2nd
with Ontour
spunkymonkey 17/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
el diablo 02/Jul/10 Lead


with Jimbo
Hidden 02/Jul/10 2nd
Inti 30/Jun/10 Lead
with Donna
amy 27/Jun/10 2nd
with Robin
Mike-W-99 24/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Fiona
Fiona Reid 24/Jun/10 2nd
with Mike
stef050 22/Jun/10 2nd O/S
stef050 22/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
melville18 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with claire melville
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
jev 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ulli, Sian
Lawrie Brand 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mariana, Mina
abbeywall 09/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead
brotchie 03/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 26/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 2nd O/S
simon_D 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
crombie 23/May/10 2nd

great route and well lead J

melville18 23/May/10 Lead rpt

missed the direct start (thanks jason ha ha)still to be properly climbed then!!!

with claire melville
jacobfinn 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Been on the wishlist for ages. Brilliant climb. Pumpy gearless start, fun and exposed the rest of the way. Defo not HVS 5a though.

with Alan
jacobfinn 23/May/10 Lead
with Alan
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
simon_D 21/May/10 2nd O/S
with Alex
MCL 21/May/10 Lead O/S
with Hayley, Steph
Thoms6974 20/May/10 2nd O/S
with Reuben
krasavenko 20/May/10 Lead O/S

Trully fantastic and never HVS 5a

with Frachel
sebrider 20/May/10 Lead O/S
ferdia 20/May/10 2nd
with Phil
vaughany 19/May/10 Lead O/S
mark88 19/May/10 2nd
with Alex Vaughan
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead rpt
tomdude 12/May/10 2nd rpt
with stuart
Fiona Reid 11/May/10 Lead rpt

Direct start

with Mike
Mark Bull 11/May/10 Lead rpt
with Mike
Mike-W-99 11/May/10 2nd
with Fiona
Hidden 09/May/10 2nd O/S
ckmoffat ?/May/10 2nd O/S
with Connie, Stef, Graeme
kitlynch 30/Apr/10 2nd
Elsier 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Amy, Ian
fall-line 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Hammonds
markhammonds 22/Apr/10 2nd β
LittleLuka 15/Apr/10 2nd
with JimBob
treejamie 15/Apr/10 -

nice, juggy all teh way up, good pro after the first section.

franksnb 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Emma
Tom Baird 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S

I lead this last year and in this log said it was soft for the grade. I take it all back, half way up I was wondering how much I could sell my gear for and protecting every move twice. Good climb, but not as good as Asinine.

with Dan
danielwarrentv 03/Apr/10 2nd

Snow on the Pentlands and sun in the sky.

Liam Ingram 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt
JamieSparkes 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt

continues to be VS 4c, despite what the moderator appears to think.

allyrocke 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
rcammack 21/Mar/10 Solo rpt
rcammack 21/Mar/10 2nd
Morgan Orr 21/Mar/10 2nd
radioshed 20/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Pete23 ?/Mar/10 Lead

A bit tricky at the start but once on the ledge about 7m up it gets easier with lots of good holds & protection....great climb.

david reeve ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
CharlieMack 11/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead rpt
Fenwick ??/2010 -
Fenwick ??/2010 -
carrieb ??/2010 -
Old_Nick_S ??/2010 Lead

Is this the start with a small nut high right which protects you from from breaking your head but not your ankles for the first 10 feet?

with Irene
Hidden ??/2010 -
rob askew ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Solo
salix ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/09 2nd
Ian Paterson 18/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Calum
Ian Paterson 18/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Calum
JamieSparkes 11/Nov/09 Lead O/S

in the dark - lovely start sequence - not HVS as claimed here!

stuaart 09/Nov/09 2nd
Hidden 09/Nov/09 Lead
Badam 05/Nov/09 2nd O/S

Seconded John up with the tide coming in had to belay from ledge on left and traverse round , hard start but quickly gaining good holds all the way to the top

with John Jackson
Mrs Weasel 11/Oct/09 Lead

Brilliant Climb! Note there is a distinct lack of gear in the bottom 5 metres.

with Flexibility Boy
auchtubhmor1 11/Oct/09 2nd

It may be 'easy 4c', but with no protection on the first 5m, well worth VS! Shame on those who start up Gaucho....

with Mark Atkins
richiegarside 11/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with steven Andrews
Steven Andrews 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S

bit windy but great sustained exposure and positions

KeithAlexander 28/Sep/09 Lead

gear had already been placed up to just beneath the crux - was finishing it so gear could be retrieved. very windy day, so quite exciting.

with Martin Dempster
adityahs 12/Sep/09 Lead β
with Dave Brown
schultz 19/Aug/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
LittleLuka 07/Aug/09 Lead
pocketsarah 07/Aug/09 2nd rpt
johannes 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Nille 01/Aug/09 2nd O/S
marcushorgan 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sean Crombie
davie.p. 22/Jul/09 Lead
with Dan
dgray455 22/Jul/09 2nd
with davie.p
kirigoss 19/Jul/09 2nd dog
with Tim
gregoldridge 19/Jul/09 2nd
with Steve Fortune
timcussins 19/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Kiri
Hidden 09/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/09 -
KeithAlexander ?/Jul/09 -

Not sure if I did the 'direct start' or not - the guidebook didn't mention it I think, so I started slightly to the right, but definitely not as far as Gaucho. The start was a bit difficult and hard to protect for the first couple meters, but after that it gets pretty easy, with good protection. It was getting on for dark when I did it, and I sometimes took a while to spot the holds, but generally when I found them, they were juggier than I expected. It is a nice line, with a bit of exposure.

with karinh
GraemeDiack ?/Jul/09 2nd β

With head torch and tonnes of Lice

simon_D 28/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Euan C
CharlieMack 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Charlie Seviour
subflux 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Bill Wright
Liam Ingram 20/Jun/09 Lead β
Ross Young 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
stuaart 20/Jun/09 2nd rpt

Felt a lot harder to second even though I've lead it before...

with Ron Dempster, Thomas Smith
thomasaneurinsmith 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Ronald Dempster, Stuart Reeves
decs 11/Jun/09 Lead
with Katie
dgray455 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with california climber gal
mhairi thorburn 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with simon gill
guyscott 08/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Josh/Angie
Hidden 08/Jun/09 Lead
davie.p. 06/Jun/09 2nd
with Dan, Stephie
Tom Baird 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, really enjoyable and exposed. Must say though it is pretty soft for the grade, more like a (hard) severe - lots of gear and no hard moves. I don't lead much above VS and found it easier than most at that grade.

with Dan
danielwarrentv 02/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hay ?/Jun/09 Lead rpt

Seconded it ages ago so can't say for sure but felt more like an exposed Severe (4b-ish). Great climb though and very good gear, head-height all the way.

with Patryk
lizzbeee 29/May/09 Lead
Brendan 29/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mikey, Rach, Claire
Smelly Fox 28/May/09 2nd
Hidden 28/May/09 Lead O/S
dgray455 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with california climber gal
Hidden 23/May/09 2nd O/S
ferdia 22/May/09 Lead O/S
with Andy
Fergus Cuthill 21/May/09 Lead O/S
with Liam Ingram + Holly Spice
Liam Ingram 21/May/09 2nd O/S
Andy Moles 21/May/09 Solo β
with -
holly138 21/May/09 2nd O/S
iceicebaby 21/May/09 2nd O/S

Sean lead...rained on him at the crux. Sam thirded cos I had some stuck gear left! What a route! Not difficult, but very exposed!

with Sean Peatfield and Sam
BallsOfSteel 21/May/09 Lead O/S
with Christina Bell, Sam
stuaart 16/May/09 Lead O/S

Pretty soft for a VS, IMHO. Loads of gear and no hard moves (might have been `naughty' by starting up Gaucho and stepping left?). Excellent climb nevertheless.

thomasaneurinsmith 16/May/09 2nd O/S
with Stuart Reeves
Paulshipman 13/May/09 Lead O/S

My first VS! The wind spiced it up a little but massively enjoyable climb. My favourite climb to date.

with Ayumi Gallagher, Sean Cochrane
Sean Bell 11/May/09 Lead
with col
jonnyhawkins1 01/May/09 2nd O/S
with david russle
mastiffmat ?/May/09 Lead
with Pete Kirkby
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
John Roe 26/Apr/09 Lead

Also with Robert Roe

CMorris 26/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd
Fiona Reid 21/Apr/09 Lead rpt

Nailed it, no falling off the start this time :)) Placed a runner in Gaucho, then tried to traverse in from Gaucho (meant to be easier?) but didn't like the step into space so down-climbed and then did the direct start on first attempt.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 21/Apr/09 2nd
with Fiona
oliverk 20/Apr/09 2nd
breithorn4164 19/Apr/09 2nd
with Rupert
hubereini 18/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with will
Redjesta 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Took a bloody age, but a stunning climb

with hubereini
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
smollett ?/Apr/09 Lead
with sam
Fultonius 15/Mar/09 2nd
Neil Adams 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Ally F
Ross Barnes 15/Mar/09 Lead
with Nicola
greenroom ??/2009 Lead O/S
iangray ??/2009 2nd
with Neil M
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
jess ??/2009 Lead O/S
with martin
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Peter Rhodes ??/2009 -
jaggy bunnet ??/2009 AltLd
Hidden 04/Nov/08 2nd O/S
joe larner 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Bernard
AndyL 08/Oct/08 Lead
with dan missen
ShoePolice 08/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Duncan Gemmell and Matt Leggett
DMiss 08/Oct/08 2nd dog
with Andy L
schultz ?/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/08 -
konna 20/Sep/08 Lead rpt

Not my best lead

John Roe 20/Sep/08 2nd
jonny taylor 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Matt
pocketsarah 26/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with claire
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd
Ian Jones ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Iain Kinnel, Pavla Pospichalova
kdlauder 27/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with Davie boy
Neilm18 25/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Iain Gray
dp1 25/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Dougie Harvey 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Richie Pardede
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd
Stewart B 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Lawrie
lewisgeddes 15/Jul/08 2nd

traversed in at high tide

with Sean
John Roe 15/Jul/08 Lead

Paul Lipscomb made up three on a rope.

lewisgeddes 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with James
rockstott 12/Jul/08 Lead

Classic line

with Laurie Wardlaw
Hidden 11/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Nevis_Ben 07/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Lawrie Brand 04/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with Stuart
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/08 Lead
Boistelle 21/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Laird
Watty 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with A.Watt
Alexander123 19/Jun/08 2nd
bigbobbyking 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S

forgot my rock shoes (again!) so did it wearing dad's...

with Peter King
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead
crombie 06/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Numb fingers which probably helped, great climb

m dunn 04/Jun/08 Lead
with Janice
oor wullie ?/Jun/08 -
with Risto kalampa
ShaneHoubart ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/May/08 2nd
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd O/S
Fiona Reid 01/May/08 Lead

Somewhat shambolic...fell off start on first two attempts - annoying given I've bouldered it previously. 3rd attempt lead clean ground up.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 01/May/08 2nd
with Fiona
fatpalooka ?/May/08 Lead

with glenn coaching

with jerry and glenn
roryifinlay ?/May/08 2nd
with Jan Coggins
Hidden 27/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/08 Lead O/S
oliverk 17/Apr/08 Lead
tomdude 16/Apr/08 Lead O/S

first vs!

with stefano
s kennedy 11/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with russell and shelley
andymoin 09/Apr/08 Lead rpt
with telford
D.Russell ?/Apr/08 Lead
with Adam
R0bbie 30/Mar/08 Lead O/S

This was a scary lead as it was raining and very cold.

with Lucy Byrne, Rosie Miller
Luci 30/Mar/08 2nd
with Robbie
leighncsontos 15/Mar/08 Lead
with R0bbie
R0bbie 15/Mar/08 TR
with Leign Chambers, Lucy Byrne, Johnny Miller
jonnie3430 24/Feb/08 2nd
with Ronbo
arose ?/Feb/08 Lead


with Matthew Phillips
Neil Mackenzie 27/Jan/08 2nd rpt
fritz_in_aotearoa ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
pimpy ??/2008 Lead
PeteH ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Russell Simpson
frenchpeter ??/2008 Lead
colin campbell ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
LHumble ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Cam
plain kitten ??/2008 Lead
sneaks 03/Nov/07 -
with Gibby
Stuart Macfarlane 14/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with Jeanie
Hidden 14/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 07/Oct/07 2nd
JLS 30/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Gavin R.
graemecook 22/Sep/07 Lead
with spade
fidi_222 22/Sep/07 -
with Lucio and Emma
Hidden 19/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Judd_IV 08/Sep/07 2nd
with Paul & Heather
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead β
Fiona Reid 23/Aug/07 2nd

Mike's best lead yet :-)

with Mike
Ly-Cilph 23/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Ambrose L (StAUMC)
Mike-W-99 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Direct start when I didn't know any better

with Fiona
Hidden 13/Aug/07 TR
Chris Plewa ?/Aug/07 Lead
with adam reid, simon gall
boglebadger ?/Jul/07 Lead
kevg 30/Jun/07 2nd
with Cedric
Ian Jones 26/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Tony Green
mbarber 13/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/07 Lead
Hay ?/Jun/07 2nd
with John D
paulpitcher ?/Jun/07 Lead
with Angus Dell
Hidden 30/May/07 2nd
sgl0jd ?/May/07 Lead
with Gayle Burns
gordon henderson ?/May/07 2nd O/S
with Martin Thompson
guyscott 22/Apr/07 2nd
with Klas
yehti 21/Apr/07 2nd
with Malcolm Reid
Andy Moles 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with can't remember
gforce 09/Apr/07 Lead
with Jamie
Hidden 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Apr/07 -
whispering nic ?/Apr/07 -
Lawrie Brand 13/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Chris gordon
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
ducky ??/2007 -
el diablo ??/2007 -
el diablo ??/2007 -
kdlauder ??/2007 2nd O/S
with Dave Manson
abbeywall ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 2nd O/S
DuckingFesperate ??/2007 -
Neil Mackenzie 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S

if you dont enjoy this you should quit climbin and take up knitting! quality.

with mark
beegsyboy 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Eccie
Neil Mackenzie 29/Oct/06 2nd rpt

nice to second immediately after leading! could play around on some moves

with Tim
markhowley 29/Oct/06 2nd
with Neil
Hidden 17/Oct/06 2nd O/S
jonnie3430 08/Sep/06 Lead O/S
elegant cheddar ?/Sep/06 2nd
with adam hughes
Hidden 28/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Stuart Macfarlane 09/Aug/06 Lead rpt
with Robin
Piglet 03/Aug/06 Lead
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/06 Lead

Excellent route, well worth its stars. Worth a special trip to the crag if you're in the area.

with Debbie Wilkinson
mhowie 30/Jul/06 2nd β
with Julia
Stuart S 28/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/06 2nd
bawjaws 17/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Martin Riddell
andymoin 04/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Martin
Sean Bell ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden ?/Jul/06 2nd rpt
lazybones 25/May/06 Lead O/S

great climb, tons of gear, great views

Hidden 23/May/06 Lead
andymoin 21/May/06 2nd O/S
with Peyoter
andymoin 13/May/06 Lead O/S

Awesome route, proper route is to climb the pillar direct without straying onto gucho (note this is vs not hvs!).

with Chemhoyish
Greg Boswell 27/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden 04/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead
centurion05 ??/2006 -
centurion05 ??/2006 -
Martin Thompson ??/2006 Lead O/S
Martin Thompson ??/2006 Lead O/S
akhughes ??/2006 Lead
sneaks ??/2006 -
Matt crawford ??/2006 Lead O/S
with taba, robbie
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ice Spider ??/2006 Lead
with Rew
CurlyStevo ??/2006 Lead

the first five meters is just about adequately protected but I wouldn't want to fall off! very nice route

sea_lene ??/2006 Solo β
sea_lene ??/2006 Lead
whispering nic 29/Oct/05 Solo

high tide

Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 26/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with Dan Bailey
Hidden 16/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/05 2nd
mav ?/Jun/05 -
Hidden 20/May/05 Lead
Spade ?/Apr/05 Lead
with Jim Turner
dave o 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Julia H
jazzyjackson 01/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Tully
centurion05 ??/2005 Lead O/S
with lee wales
McKenna ??/2005 2nd
with James M
Mark_Fisher ??/2005 Lead β
with Trudi - Adam
Mark_Fisher ??/2005 Lead β
with Trudi - Adam
BRUCESTRAC ??/2005 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/2005 -
pigeonjim ??/2005 Lead O/S
Chris Davids 04/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Jon
Stuart Macfarlane 15/Jun/04 Lead rpt
with Helen
Captain Solo 13/Jun/04 Lead
with Colin
Hidden 19/May/04 Lead
KarlH 10/May/04 Lead O/S
with Tom Hales
sgl ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Giles
French Erick 22/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Hardin
French Erick 22/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Hardin
steev ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Raph B
Hidden ?/Apr/04 2nd
Oli 17/Feb/04 Lead O/S

First trad lead.

with Chris Spencer
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Solo O/S
Dangerous Dave ??/2004 Lead O/S
jacobfinn ??/2004 2nd β
with Tane
blakey ??/2004 Lead
Paul L ?/Sep/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead rpt
Sankey ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Katherine
Richard Weller ?/Aug/03 -
with Nick Cruden
Hidden 05/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 30/May/03 2nd
Stuart Macfarlane 06/May/03 Lead rpt
with Laura
Hidden 03/May/03 2nd
Hidden ?/May/03 2nd
Stuart Macfarlane 29/Apr/03 Lead rpt
with Mhairi
barney_edin ?/Sep/02 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/02 2nd
Stuart Macfarlane 21/Aug/02 Lead rpt
with John B
220bpm 14/Aug/02 Lead O/S

Still one of the best single pitch VS I have ever done. Simply excellent!

220bpm 14/Aug/02 Lead O/S

Two climbs for the price of one....great idea, not.

snowboarder 14/Aug/02 2nd
with Mark
snowboarder 14/Aug/02 2nd
with Mark
beermonkey ?/Aug/02 Lead
with alan
Hidden 08/May/02 Lead
samwelli 06/May/02 2nd O/S
with Reuben Brown
Couby ?/Mar/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 Solo
Ryan Clancy ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Donnie Morrow
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
stugreen75 ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Richard
Jamie B 15/Aug/01 Lead

Who decided to upgrade this?

with Katy Davies
Hidden 02/May/01 Lead O/S
Niall B ??/2001 2nd
Stuart Macfarlane ?/Sep/00 2nd
with Roddy
Yourlead 07/Jun/00 2nd
with Graham Penny
brianrunner ??/2000 -
G0WEN5Y ??/2000 -
RAK ??/2000 Solo

Date unknown

with Pete H.
Hidden ?/Oct/99 2nd
Iain Thow 11/Sep/99 Lead
with Chris Dodd
Old_Nick_S 09/Aug/99 Lead
with Irene
Hidden 28/Jul/99 2nd
Hidden 10/Jun/99 Lead
JiveWeasel 29/Apr/99 Lead O/S
babymoac 05/Sep/98 Lead
with Liz
puddingstone 05/Sep/98 2nd
with Andy
IanMcC 20/May/98 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Chad123 ??/1998 -
TobyA 27/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Ed and Elina
Yourlead 03/Jun/95 Lead
with Bill McNee
Yourlead 27/Nov/94 2nd

Met Phil & Steve and tied onto their rope.

Yourlead 13/Aug/94 Lead
with Donald Williamson
CMacD ??/1992 -
Yourlead 30/Oct/91 2nd
with Graham Penny
pingora 10/Jun/90 Solo
Hidden 13/May/90 2nd
Hidden 07/May/90 Lead
Neil Henderson ?/Aug/87 Lead
with Martin McLoughlin
Moses 16/Aug/86 Lead O/S
Neil R 15/May/86 Lead
Budge ??/1986 Lead O/S

Led several times, a classic. This is Pain Pillar the other way is cheating and it is still only VS

with Adrian Fox
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
amcleish ??/1985 -
johnkeith ??/1980 -
with G. Callander
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Bruce Kerr 24/Mar/79 Lead
with Frank Hughes
Hidden ??/1979 Lead
Hidden 10/May/72 Solo
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
tbmcbrid, Benjamin Muis, Hidden, IainMay, liamando, westleas, DougieMull, Alex the Alex, David Woods, Hidden, CMCM, bedsforsleepypeople, Heggie, gurumed, Edvenables, Edvenables, Hidden, Ropeboy, TizzyA, Urgles, Davidwalker3101, torsparkles, pryan300, pryan300, Alor_lab, Hidden, Hidden, sleeplessjb, JonmapDL, pirrie3, Hidden, christensena, Hidden, podmet99, jonnyhawkins1, GrantMDocherty, Nibs, NickBrown, telemarker, grodin, stuartm555, ClaireNewlands, pete87abs, konna, mhowie, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 99
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 96
Votes cast 97
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set