Original Route*** HVS 5a
[Vaulting onto the top of Original Route, 2 kb]8m. From the ramp move right to a flake-crack. Finish direct. © ROCKFAX
Surmount the gangway, reach the flake crack to the right and make a tough move to finish.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr Jul/1964

Photo: Vaulting onto the top of Original Route © Bloke on a Rope
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 87 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

juggy fun
Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 11/Oct/14

RKirke - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Alex T

Favourite route here! What big jugs it has!
Alex the Alex - Solo - 27/Sep/14 with Rog

Had to rest of top hex to work out method of attack!
williap - Lead - 07/Sep/14 with Barry vardy

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/14

yorkshiresherpa - Lead dog - 08/Jun/14 with Tommaso D'Odorico

robertmichaeladams - 2nd - 26/May/14 with Dave Bulley

Hidden - TR O/S - 01/Mar/14

3 stars :)
nick ferro - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Oli Birkill, Sonam Norbu

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Nov/13

petegunn - Lead - 22/Sep/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/13

Top-out tricky even on second. cracking route. raining, but doesn't put Mick off.
jimorothy - 2nd - 13/Sep/13 with Mick Hopkinson

Hidden - Solo rpt - 02/Aug/13

Bloke on a Rope - Solo rpt - 31/Jul/13

stuart1980 - TR O/S - 13/Jul/13

Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Ruairidh Wadsworth

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/13

Paul Figg - Solo - 30/Apr/13

andybirtwistle - Sent - 29/Apr/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Jan/13

papashango - Lead - 09/Dec/12 with Jim

georgedunton - Solo O/S - 15/Oct/12

freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead O/S - 02/May/12 with Callum

Probs an easier solo than a lead, just makes it a bit spicier!
Bloke on a Rope - Solo O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Matt

SPD224 - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Jim Hardwick

Mowglee - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Ali

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/11 with Dave Oldacres

pete3685 - Lead - 23/Jul/11

Simonj - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/11 with jim

Jimmy1976 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Simon

Hidden - TR - 09/Jun/11

Hidden - Solo - 02/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/11

Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Richard and Maria

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jan/11

cymjt - 2011

QUALITY 3*
Graeme Hammond - Solo O/S - 07/Nov/10

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 07/Nov/10 with Rob

rob askew - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Legendary Stu

Jon Read - Solo O/S - 03/May/10 with andi turner

riven - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Chriswallis2

ianjfsutcliffe - 2nd - 12/Dec/09 with Rafterman

Russell Lovett - 2nd rpt - 27/Sep/09 with andrew haigh

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/09

Short and steep
manwithacam - Lead - 31/Aug/09 with Sarah

Topout caught me by surprise - after yomping up the flake I assumed it was all over...
jonny taylor - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Claire P

clairepoppett - 2nd - 16/Aug/09 with jonny taylor

markfairbank - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/09 with Mick D

sten - Lead rpt - 06/Jul/09 with Amy Gustin/Tommy Franzen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/May/09

chrissylee - 2nd - 24/Mar/09 with Tom Hopper

The sheet of ice on top made a top-out impossible, so I lowered off. On a nice day this would be quite an amenable HVS, but today in sub-zero temperatures it was my most painful climbing experience yet. Still enjoyed the moves though.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Clare

petegunn - 2nd - 17/Oct/08 with Davina & Matt

adam carless - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with practicalcat

Elsier - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Ian

Simonj - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Andy

Pumpy to say the least. Couldn't hang on to make a clip near the top and didn't really fancy blasting past it - rested/fell back on to previous gear. Went in the end but will be back to get it clean...
markfairbank - Lead dog - 17/Sep/08 with Mick D

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/08

glad i didn't have to lead that top out what a nasty un!
gilldando - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Mike

ollyroberts - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Ben

Never again, solo!
Dave Warburton - Solo rpt - 18/May/08 with LewisDale

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/08

IanJackson - Solo rpt - 28/Feb/08 with Robeverybody

Great Stuff. It will be a route i climb everytime i go i think!
Dave Warburton - Solo O/S - 17/Nov/07 with Nick Warburton

wow
IanJackson - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/07 with Robeverybody

dazbarker - TR O/S - 23/May/07 with Whiskey

BruceW - Lead dog - 04/Nov/06 with Becca

stuart100 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/06 with Gary Stoker

Russell Lovett - TR - 29/Jan/06

mikekeswick - TR - 03/Jan/06 with leif

mikekeswick - TR O/S - Jan/06 with leif

Hidden - Sent O/S - 2004

John Pickles - Solo O/S - Dec/03

Roget - Solo O/S - 2003

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Aug/02

Hidden - Solo O/S - Nov/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Climbster - Solo O/S - 26/Jul/98

Steve Crowe - Solo O/S - Oct/95 with KM

Paul Clarke - 1995

rob.grafton - 1993

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
the_keef

Voting
Total votes cast 24
hard E10 of 7
E10 of 7
easy E10 of 7
hard HVS0 of 7
HVS5 of 7
easy HVS2 of 7
hard VS0 of 7
VS0 of 7
easy VS0 of 7
hard 5b0 of 7
5b0 of 7
easy 5b0 of 7
hard 5a0 of 7
5a5 of 7
easy 5a2 of 7
hard 4c0 of 7
4c0 of 7
easy 4c0 of 7
3 Stars3 of 10
2 Stars7 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

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