UKC

180m, 5 pitches. This description is a little different to the one in the OAC Guidebook. Most importantly it's not a route for VS leaders due to patches of loose rock, a couple of 5a moves and lack of solid belays to escape. None the less a good adventure climb in the true meaning of the word, including finding the route in the first place, climbing it and finding your way off.
1. 4a 50m. Climb rock steps and a crack to belay just left of the rib, well left of the groove and above the level of the big overhang to the right of the groove.
2. 4c. 25m. Step right and climb the rib, moving left to belay in na small recess below a bulge. Some loose rock.
3. 5a. 35m. Move right from the recess, pull through the bulge to a ledge and move back left to a crack. Climb the crack to a terrace.
4. 4c. 30m. Climb a groove about 5m to the left to a belay on a ledge on the left.
5. 4c. 40m. Climb up a corner past loose hanging flakes to a large terrace. Note this is not the top of the crag. See details of descent.

Graham Little and Mike Mortimer Mar/2010.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest
Brisingr

Grade: HVS ***
(Dragon Buttress)

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