UKC Logbook - 'Dalmatinski San'

600m, 19 pitches. 5c, 5c, 6a, 6b, 6a, 3, 4a, 4c, 3c, 1, 6b, 6a+, 6b, 6a, 6a+, 3c, 6a, 3c, 1

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User	Date		Notes
tomasbluslimz	24 Nov, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Fantastic route! If done in summer bring PLENTY of water as you'll be exposed to direct sun most of the day. Unless you're comfortable with huge run-outs or a bit of soloing then bring some cams, slings etc. The 50m 6a pitch had roughly 4 bolts which was fine as they were around the harder bits of the pitch. 6a+ and especially 6b pitches are very well bolted however. CAUTION ON THE DESCENT For the descent you can hike down from the mountain. There is also a guidebook recommendation to walk down on the east of the route, followed by a 40m abseil to the ground. Although this was very fun be warned! the walk down turned into down-climbing. Perhaps we somehow veered off the past though i doubt it as it is a relatively small channel of descent. Regardless my partner and i had to do two more small abseils before getting to the one in the guidebook. When finally got to the 40m abseil it was anchored in a dried up pool at the top of a waterfall. After lowering into the pool and pulling your rope through it is very hard to get out by means other than continuing down. The abseil itself was not bolted. It was two nuts, roughly between sizes 4-8 from memory. Both were solid placements though very rusted. Linked by a calcified and frayed piece of static rope with a mallion on the end which was hungover a boulder in open space. Tricky to weight it without essentially whipping onto the old nuts. We doubled up our 60m ropes for this abseil and they barely reached the ground so be careful! getting stuck here is dangerous. at the bottom of it we were still not on the ground and couldn't find a path as markings and cairns lead to steep drops. We eventually had to abseil once again leaving behind a sling and mallion.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Fantastic route! If done in summer bring PLENTY of water as you'll be exposed to direct sun most of the day. Unless you're comfortable with huge run-outs or a bit of soloing then bring some cams, slings etc. The 50m 6a pitch had roughly 4 bolts which was fine as they were around the harder bits of the pitch. 6a+ and especially 6b pitches are very well bolted however. CAUTION ON THE DESCENT For the descent you can hike down from the mountain. There is also a guidebook recommendation to walk down on the east of the route, followed by a 40m abseil to the ground. Although this was very fun be warned! the walk down turned into down-climbing. Perhaps we somehow veered off the past though i doubt it as it is a relatively small channel of descent. Regardless my partner and i had to do two more small abseils before getting to the one in the guidebook. When finally got to the 40m abseil it was anchored in a dried up pool at the top of a waterfall. After lowering into the pool and pulling your rope through it is very hard to get out by means other than continuing down. The abseil itself was not bolted. It was two nuts, roughly between sizes 4-8 from memory. Both were solid placements though very rusted. Linked by a calcified and frayed piece of static rope with a mallion on the end which was hungover a boulder in open space. Tricky to weight it without essentially whipping onto the old nuts. We doubled up our 60m ropes for this abseil and they barely reached the ground so be careful! getting stuck here is dangerous. at the bottom of it we were still not on the ground and couldn't find a path as markings and cairns lead to steep drops. We eventually had to abseil once again leaving behind a sling and mallion.