Rockfax Description
Quite simply one of the best pitches in Britain; good gear, great climbing and an amazing position. It is also one of the most fallen-off climbs in the Pass due to overenthusiastic leaders going for it when they aren't quite ready. Fire up the initial steep crack, passing a surprisingly tricky move where the crack dog-legs right. Eventually gain a semi-rest below the grand finale - the leftward-slanting thin crack. Follow this, fighting the growing pump, to a line of slightly-crumbly juggy flakes leading horizontally left to the arete. Finish more easily up the arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An aspirational climb which defies most superlatives. One of the best routes of its grade in the country. Protection is superb, even at the top section provided you are strong enough to place it. Approach the vertical crack from the right and, after a tricky start, follow it without difficulty to an awkward section where it bends diagonally right. From a good rest, lace the soaring white crack with runners, take stock and make progressively hard moves until a line of ricketty flakes leads leftwards to the arete. Those with enough stamina in reserve might consider finishing the last 4m direct at E3 5c.

Ron Moseley 06/May/1956

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, North Wales Rock Graded List, Very good routes in the UK, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, CUMC Ticklist, Tick List for 2015/2016, 2015 Objectives, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Jacobs Half Term Goals, MUMC Ticklist.

Hidden 01/Nov Lead dog
amccann 04/Oct Lead O/S

Awkward section lower down was definitely the crux.

with Tom Bennell, Harry Lewis
harry_lewis 04/Oct 2nd rpt
climbomaniac 03/Oct Lead O/S
Dizz 03/Oct Lead O/S
with Mark Stevenson
Matt77 02/Oct Lead O/S
with Owen
James Beaumont 30/Sep 2nd O/S
with Scott G
Hidden 30/Sep Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 30/Sep 2nd

Too hard for me, but I climbed all of it & retrieved all the gear, albeit with a couple of rests

robgixer 26/Sep Lead rpt
Timothy Miller 19/Sep Lead G/U

Stupid foot pop!

with Karen McIntyre
Liam Ingram 19/Sep Lead O/S

A bit of a fight...

with Jake Dowell
ned_85 19/Sep Lead dog
with Scott Marc Berry
Richard Kendrick 17/Sep Lead O/S
with Andy Davis
JamieSparkes 11/Sep Lead O/S

So glad to not fall off this, such good climbing and perfect pro all the way. Thought the lower dogleg was the hardest bit, or at least the most fall-off-able!

with AndyCC
TonyB 05/Sep Lead dog
with Claudia
Davesmith1981 16/Aug 2nd
with duncan darnell
Ramon Marin 15/Aug Lead O/S

Great route, but a bit overrated, I've done many better E2s that are nowhere as famous

with ciaran tracey
LJC 12/Aug Lead O/S
with Tom B, Mark B
duncandarnell 07/Aug Lead rpt

nice to put this one to bed

with dave smith
manwithacam 25/Jul Lead

what a great climb, loved every minute of it. Perfect gear, sinker nuts everywhere, meaning you can pop one in and just enjoy the climbing for a few metres without worrying. One of those lines you feel was made for (trad) climbing. Found middle crux as hard as the top. Up there with Darius as the best climb of the year (easier too!) Psyched.

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 25/Jul 2nd
FreddieSmith 20/Jul Lead O/S

Inspiring. Even in the rain.

Neal Jobling 18/Jul Lead O/S

Fantastic climb. So pleased to get this off after bottling getting on it or getting rained off on each previous visit over the last 12 years!

with Jon
Albert Exley 11/Jul Lead O/S

Awesome. An hour and a half on the route, felt like 10 minutes ...

with Jon
Hidden 10/Jul 2nd rpt
griffithpatrick 09/Jul 2nd dog
Brendan 05/Jul Lead O/S

Lived up to the hype. Simply superb.

with Del
kenneM 03/Jul Lead dog

So gutted - didn't listen to sound advice - too much gear in final left slanting crack and had have one rest. Got all the moves clean and will be back to get it properly. Absolutely amazing route - one of the best single pitch lines I have ever climbed!

with Chris
bede.west 23/Jun Lead O/S

Mega! finished direct too. one of the best pitches I have done, so pleased to get this done before I leave NW.

shaunhumphreys 22/Jun Lead O/S

hitched over from ogwen for an evening ascent, top day!

benkelsey 22/Jun Lead O/S

great gear and jugs. was actually kinda keen for the flyer at the top but smashed it out, so happy. the crux is getting on it.

with Shaun Humphreys
BRoe 19/Jun Lead O/S
Matt Groom 16/Jun Lead

Really pleased to get this clean...amazing route!

harry_lewis 15/Jun Lead O/S
pearson9596 14/Jun Lead O/S
thomas.veness 14/Jun 2nd dog
Alex Winter 14/Jun Lead O/S

Brilliant. Bit drizzly when I started, but cleared up by the time I was at the top. Got really pumped pissing about with gear in the top crack, and nearly fell off the jug traverse to the arete.

with Niels
Suzana 12/Jun 2nd β
Rachel Somerville 11/Jun 2nd rpt
with Cal
Andy Hardy 07/Jun Lead O/S

Chuffed to get this clean onsight 😁

Hardcore Pat 06/Jun Lead dog
with Dr Julie
Ed Booth 26/May Lead rpt
with nick scott
Hidden 23/May Lead O/S
masa-alpin 16/May 2nd rpt
with Saša Dobrić
masa-alpin 13/May 2nd rpt
with Christiano Pastorello
Albachoss 04/May Lead rpt

Seconded 2 years back, it's all in the feet!

with Dougie
clams ?/May 2nd dog
with Jim
anguskille 26/Apr Lead O/S

brillant climbing, what a treat. finished direct up the thin crack

fennerz 26/Apr 2nd O/S
guy757 23/Apr -
jamestaylor92 20/Apr Lead O/S
climberchristy 08/Apr Lead O/S

Wow! Stunning line. Brilliant climbing from start to finish. Never feels desperate. Good rests. Loads of gear. Possibly the best route I've climbed. Deserves more than 3 stars.

with Ben Cole
Wizzy 08/Apr Lead O/S

Simply the best pitch of climbing I've ever done!! Really intimidating from below, but fairly steady climbing throughout with loads of good gear

Andy Peak 1 08/Apr Lead rpt

always fantastic

with Si
darcan 07/Apr Lead dog
with nick
Hidden 07/Apr Lead O/S
nickstephens 07/Apr 2nd O/S
Jackislav 07/Apr Lead dnf

Shocking effort, blaming it on the new shoes and talon toe nails

pete johnson 06/Apr Lead rpt
with Chris Parkin
danJBA 06/Apr Lead O/S
with Jake Thompsett
esther ?/Apr Lead
Stroppy 21/Mar Lead dog

Found the crux really hard, pumped out, the rest of the route turned into a complete mare

RKirke 21/Mar 2nd O/S
Ian craigie ?/Mar Lead
with Dave Rudkin
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Curly Rich 29/Nov/14 2nd O/S
with gmc
ashtond6 16/Nov/14 Lead

gutted.... the climbing is very easy (peak 5b+?) but I failed as I didn't warm up & it was freezing cold! Hands warmed up as I hit the final crux & I realised i'd been overgripping all the way up! Climbed a few harder routes lately and arrogance cost me this classic. Incredible route!

Hidden ?/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
tsl42 11/Oct/14 2nd dog
stevoland 02/Oct/14 Lead β

w00t! With all the beta in the world.

nathanlee 21/Sep/14 2nd
with Henry Francis
HAJ Francis 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
stuart34 15/Sep/14 Lead rpt
kermit_uk 13/Sep/14 2nd dog

Nothing left in my arms did first 1/2 clean then had a few rest on the tough section. Will be back for this! Great route!

Lessworkmoreclimbing 12/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Bit thin for feet at times, not one for me to lead just now.

with Kev
Duncan Campbell 07/Sep/14 Lead G/U

Technically ground up as I fell off the top in my first year of uni and abbed off a single wire (stupid). Did this as wasn't up to Right Wall today. Great to do and just enjoy it. Defo a tricky E2 but its not E3!

with Bubbles
Julie Carroll 07/Sep/14 Lead
with Steve Gorton
mynyddresident 05/Sep/14 Lead
with wolf
MarkRoe 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Jamie Vardy
JVard 02/Sep/14 2nd

Progressively harder, if only I had the stamina to lead this, definitely would succeed if I did. A few falls/rests from the pump! Amazing line & exposure!

joeflan 02/Sep/14 Lead dog

one fall just before the final flakes due to pump, climbed back up and finished her, fab route

Helen Gibson ?/Sep/14 Lead

Good to get this one!

with Will Hardy
rbharries 20/Aug/14 -
with owain williams
ferdia 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Andrew Wilson 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
Hidden 14/Aug/14 Lead O/S
morganator 08/Aug/14 2nd O/S

With finish direct. Mega but a lot more polished than I remember from my previous time 24 years ago!

with Dan Arkle
spragglerocks 04/Aug/14 Lead dnf

To be continued...

with Matt
redjerry 30/Jul/14 Lead
with Ed Morris
alexjz 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Such a good route!

with Sam Farmsworth
Richard P Coates 25/Jul/14 2nd dog
ianjfsutcliffe 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

After Ivy Sepulchre and Cenotaph Corner and before Cemetery Gates on the best single day of climbing I think I've ever had!!

with Coatesy
Rachel Somerville 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Best E2 I've done. Awesome climbing, ace position, good gear.

Hidden 22/Jul/14 2nd
Callum_Johnson 21/Jul/14 2nd


with Uisdean
Uisdean hawthorn 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
erbridger 20/Jul/14 2nd
Adam_42 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Awesome! Probably the best trad route I've done.

Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead β
Stanners 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S

THE most enjoyable pitch I've ever done? Lived up to my expectations!

with Alex Rhodes
Helen Gibson 15/Jul/14 Lead dog

fell.. felt amazing up till that point.

with dan
Diggler 12/Jul/14 2nd
with andyob
Ahab 03/Jul/14 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jul/14 2nd
Ben Briggs ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Abs
theotherpetehill 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 29/Jun/14 2nd β
Sophie Nunn 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 29/Jun/14 2nd β
with Richard, Sophie
rob.grafton 29/Jun/14 2nd dnf
with Martin Smith
Luxulyan 29/Jun/14 2nd
with Tiff, Sophie
Gus 28/Jun/14 2nd
with hazel findlay, katy whitt
mountain_jay 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

One of, if not the, best climbs I've ever done. Just. Brilliant. Did the straight up finish. Was climbing well. Woop Woop

Pippa 28/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/14 2nd rpt
ItsHuwHaribo 24/Jun/14 2nd

An experience I needed.. Excellent route

mr mills 24/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Huw
Apharri 23/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Good to do this again

with Jim Gayler
ChrisBrooke 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Pretty psyched to get this onsight. Felt pretty steady really. Could rest and shake out all the way up, even on the top crack. As much gear as you would want to put in all the way. Enjoyable process to manage the ropes, the gear, the moves and crucially, 'the pump' - making sure there was something left in the tank for the top bit. The sunshine helped too.

spidermonkey09 18/Jun/14 Lead RP

Revenge! Fell off last year, back for another crack a year later. Insitu wire in top fingercrack definitely helped. Just gunned it in the end!

Ewano 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S


Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd
Mark Grist 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Paul Tanton
papashango 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Martin Broadhurst
PaulTanton 14/Jun/14 2nd rpt

This felt very easy

wi11 12/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Brian
Alistair Corbett 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

great route!

with Matt Robinson
Hidden 11/Jun/14 2nd
kp64zl ?/Jun/14 2nd dog

fell off at the top crack.

with Nick CC
andycash 31/May/14 2nd
Ash Sayers 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Simply amazing climbing but with unbelievable terminal pump!

Hidden 21/May/14 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 17/May/14 2nd rpt
with James Moneypenny
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd O/S
adam 24 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Found this pretty hard. Big thanks to Joe seconding cenotaph who yelled at me to carry on when I nearly gave up near the top. Very pleased I perceived.

Joe Innes 17/May/14 Lead O/S

The best route I've ever done! A perfect, dead-vertical face climb with fantastic moves. Psyched to do this!

with Jamie Roberts, Steve Gibbs
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd dog
Stefan_Morris 16/May/14 2nd rpt
Owen W-G 16/May/14 2nd rpt

First time seconding, felt harder than last time but didn't get to milk the rests.

with Ryan
Ed morris 16/May/14 Lead O/S
with stefan
Luxulyan 14/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
twem 03/May/14 2nd dog
alastairbegley 03/May/14 Lead dog

Not in good style, but was my first e2 due to being inspired by the line.

Hidden ?/May/14 -
Kazza91 ?/May/14 Lead
Stefan_Morris 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Stunning pitch

malinkvist 15/Apr/14 2nd dnf

climbed in the dark

with Jay
samwillo 14/Apr/14 Lead


with The Bear
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead
james1978 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with pam
jcw ??/2014 -
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
waynekinrade ??/2014 Lead
waynekinrade ??/2014 Lead
waynekinrade ??/2014 Lead
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
thetradlad 26/Oct/13 2nd dnf

Absolutely fantastic line. Hopefully I might actually climb it one day

with Paddy
Patrick Hill 26/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Wet top crack.

Lenny 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead
Dr Toph 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy and sustained, getting progressively harder as you go up. Great technical climbing!

with Emily
Shauna 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing!

with Jules
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead
vinspin 03/Sep/13 2nd

one rest at top

Hidden 03/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
BenNorman 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant climb, feels like a proper experience with all that climbing, bit nervous but very enjoyable!

with Simon
brices 30/Aug/13 2nd β

Just amazing such good route could do this every day.

Jonny Nick 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

So psyched to get this. After a month of climbing in France on bolts, felt like I had the endurance. Top section left me pretty pumped but held it together. First E2

Dibdawg 22/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Been waiting 2 years to get back on for the ground up send. Fantastic route... best E2 in North Wales!

Ginger McGrath 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S

BRILLIANT best pitch ive ever lead!

with rob, pete abernethy
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
robgixer ?/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 22/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Jul/13 Lead β
duncandarnell 15/Jul/13 Lead

1 Fall end of top crux

ian caton 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Nic
Hidden 10/Jul/13 2nd
rurp 09/Jul/13 Lead

too hot really in the full sun but been looking for an opportunity to do this for years. No free moves. crux was lower than I expected. placed 4 number 2 nuts and three no 1's most near the top. 20 ft flyer from the top crack. Tired but happy. As hard as the tippler...

with bill farmer
ben360 07/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 26/Jun/13 Lead dog

Amazing line, but got pumped about halfway up- should've run it out more. I'll be back!

Hidden 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
greglad 21/Jun/13 -
Mike W 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

The best and longest single pitch iv dun:) The only time in my climbing so far that iv bean disappointed to get to the top and to realise that its all over:-)

with Mike w
nigel pearson 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S


with Robin
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Aaron Lines 07/Jun/13 Lead dog
Jillybean 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Brad
thecurlyone 03/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Fantastic route, ideal conditions, lower crux felt fine, foot slipped on upper crux, but recovered well. Thank goodness Mark decided to use a rope this time!

mark4344 03/Jun/13 2nd
with stu and Dereck
frank ramsay 03/Jun/13 Lead
with Aaron
Aaron Lines 03/Jun/13 2nd
Sardien 02/Jun/13 Lead dog

Tricky, couldnt read the sequences on the two hard sections and failed twice. Pleased to have tried though and that it was not a lack of stamina that knocked me off

with Helena Robinson
Derek Ryden 02/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Mike Pycroft, Pete Johnson
Simon Allcock 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Wilki
AJM 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Tubs 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with AJM
DaveMo 01/Jun/13 2nd dog

enjoyable climbing on lower section. long crux section following upper crack. poor footholds.

with Jan
Dave Searle ?/Jun/13 -
georgedunton ?/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd O/S
greenclimb 31/May/13 Lead rpt
with Sarah
BeckyBrown1989 30/May/13 2nd
with Stuart McAleese
mikeshewring 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with sharpie
Alice Thompson 26/May/13 Lead O/S
torsok 19/May/13 2nd β

Cracking outing with sustained tussle on fantastic & atmospheric hew of rock..

with Nic
dswansonlow 02/May/13 2nd rpt
tim newton 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with george
herman0055 20/Apr/13 2nd
Dan724 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Amazing. Not nearly as hard/intimidating as expected. Followed by one of the coldest belays of my life!

with Dan Ely
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Tophe 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Dougiie
Albachoss 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S

One of, if not the best lines i have experienced to date. Pumpy yes but if you can shake out on good holds then you can do it! Whether i could place gear on lead, some more stamina needed!

with Ben
dswansonlow 02/Mar/13 2nd rpt
with Chris S
Tom Seccombe 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S
tim exley 19/Feb/13 2nd O/S


captain ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
atapper21 ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
JCAshman ??/2013 Lead O/S
Jonesdben ??/2013 -
Robb Bert 22/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Steady climbing

with Steve George
grp 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 18/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Bruce Houston 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S

done as the sun set in between heavy showers! couldn't feel my fingers was so cold! Went Direct, thought climbing was more like long E1! though sensational climbing!

HarryB 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Ross
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S
James Oswald 05/Sep/12 2nd RP

Having lead several days before. Ace

stuart34 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S


James Oswald 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Simply an amazing route. Solid but slow ascent placing the gear and downclimbing before the crux. Excellent. One of the best routes I've done, ever. Really lovely

with Adam
williamsd79 26/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Fell off on the last move before the jugs and smashed my elbow. Devestated! What a route.......will certinetly return

centurion05 26/Aug/12 2nd
with dyl
pie_eater_pete 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
mark20 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Cardi 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. Thought the move right was fairly tricky.

with Tom R
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead
Jacob Bloodworth ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd
robin_hackney 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. Glad to tick the route after putting off getting on it. It swallowed as many small wires as you could throw at it.

with Si
John Lewis 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Barra
Kevster 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
drysori 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

I always thought this would be tough, but it's a total romp. Should really have done the direct finish, but the jugs out left were too tempting for the easy win.

with Dunc
tonevert 12/Jul/12 2nd
with Kevin Faux
Oliver Sherman 08/Jul/12 Lead β

Über-classic and not that hard really. Stonking rests before a few hard moves out of the point where the cracks branch off. Bit pumpy here, but the section is quite short. Lovely jugs to finish with. Great climb in a great position and a classic line.

with Hugh Thomas
SamuelHarris 08/Jul/12 2nd dog
dswansonlow 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Sam Harris
guy757 30/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/12 Lead O/S
Ross.Cooper 22/May/12 Lead dnf

Took a couple of whippers from the crux and too exhausted to attempt again.

vertically_challenged 16/May/12 Lead dog

ran out of beans :( got to last hard move before juggy flakes to finnish and fluffed it! will get it ground up next time easy, may just go for e3 finnish next time :)

Hidden 13/May/12 Lead
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead
dj_brigham05 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S


tyler836 14/Apr/12 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/12 Lead
stargazer85 25/Mar/12 AltLd
with Matt Keyse
Michael Allday 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

direct finish

with Ellie Barker
sam820 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rich
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Narked4fun ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
wi11 07/Nov/11 Lead O/S

COLD! Thought I had disco leg near the top, turns out I was just shivering! Amazing route though, first crux took a bit of figuring out but then steady to the top...glad I did it!

with Tom
Tom Livingstone 07/Nov/11 2nd β


jamestaylor92 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead dog
owain86 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Greg
Steeve 28/Sep/11 Lead dnf

slipped in the final crack. fell 8m onto a C3 000. great route, need to go back and get the ground up!

with will
w.pettet-smith 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S


with claire jane carter
Joughton 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

First ever route on the Cromlech! Really proud to do this - did my first E2 (The Strand) the day before so not really cemented at the grade but went for it and was fairly steady. Was more worried about fluffing up a classic than actually falling! And well done Al who did Lord... at the same time!

KittySupreme ?/Sep/11 2nd dog
with Owain
willsm11 19/Aug/11 Lead β

direct finish

Hidden 16/Aug/11 2nd rpt
belay bunny turned bad 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
guy757 03/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Fatherof2 ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with Roger
gregoritos 31/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Ewan Russell 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Ralph
ruaidh 30/Jul/11 2nd

two rests, but apart from that went ok

with rob
Rob Pitt 27/Jul/11 2nd
with Lee Roberts
Lawrie Brand 26/Jul/11 2nd rpt
PeteH 26/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Glad to get this after failing on it 3 years ago. I've gotta say, I still found it a fight! Lower bit, moving rightwards to below the Y-junction, felt like the crux to me - top wasn't too bad.

Liam FLeming 25/Jul/11 2nd
with luke brooks
Luke Brooks 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Direct finish

with Liam
Andy Moles 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Lives up to the hype, maybe the best pitch I've ever done.

with Calum
Graham Westbrook 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Amazing route! Been thinking about this route for ages but it went well on the day! Started going for the direct by accident before I noticed the jugs on the left!

Dibdawg 14/Jul/11 Lead dog

First attempt at an E2... need to work on my stamina me thinks! No problem with the moves and got some much needed air time. Next time Gadget... next time!

Didymus 14/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Flash pump at 15 metres. Pleased I gave it a go. Will be back.

with Rich
benchwarmer 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Konrad
AlistairB 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Lisa
LisaA 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Brilliant climbing, best seconding I've ever done ;)

Jessie Rushbrooke 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with GF
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Diggler 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Easier than expected!!!!!

with jeffb
jeffb 02/Jul/11 2nd dog
with diggler
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
J.Wells 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
dan ely 20/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with tony (army)
Chris M 16/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Polly
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead rpt
simon1965 11/Jun/11 Lead rpt

At last! Nearly fluffed at the last minute by unexpectantly slipping off a foothold. Managed to hold onto two small crimps, pull myself together and finish the route clean. What a route. 40 metres of HHVS really but makes it hard work. You just need to be fit. Next stop the direct finish.

with dom
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead dog
robertmichaeladams 03/Jun/11 Lead

what a pitch

with Tom
tomdude 03/Jun/11 Lead dnf

i tried! completely out of steam

with rob
Rachel Slater 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

sooooo pumpy!!!!! definitely should have done a few laps on gym routes first. think my legs got pumped first from walking up the hill. such a good route though.

Chi Cheng 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S

got slightly pumped on the second, not sure what would of happened on the lead, amazing climb will have to come back to get it.

Hidden ?/Jun/11 -
Rock Lizard ?/Jun/11 2nd
JasTaplin ?/Jun/11 2nd
JRae 28/May/11 Lead dog

Fell off once at the crux due to messing around trying to down climb, then blasted through second time. Amazing climbing, maybe the best route i've done yet!!!

thomasadixon 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Class route, should have done the direct finish though, moving left felt a bit like running away.

with Johnny
Dangerous Dave 28/May/11 Lead rpt

Fell off this 5 years ago. Good to go back and get it clean.

Jonas Paulsson 13/May/11 Lead dnf

Aaah, climbed too slowly. Got rained down from the crux... Two wires and some crabs up for grabs.

wolf.leeb 02/May/11 Lead O/S

quality climbing all the way.. bomb-proof gear.. no particularly desperate moves but never too easy.. probably the best single pitch E2 in Wales.

with niel
al99 28/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Luke Hodson
lukehodson 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Got up to the cromlech just as the light was fading. Brilliant route, worth the hype. Found the first crux fairly awkward.

markalmack 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
petegunn 21/Apr/11 Lead

Exquisite :) great holds, bomber gear, fine exposure and a set of jugs to finish. On a gorgeous day to boot. Yippee! :)

with Davina
Hidden 21/Apr/11 2nd dog
benkelsey 20/Apr/11 2nd dog

No climbing for 6 months then straight on this. dream on. Climbed it really well up until the hard moves out left when pumped out. took a few goes - great route, exposure and gear. Cracking.

Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead RP
ian d f 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd
al99 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd
Derek Ryden 10/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 24/Mar/11 Lead
with stuart lade
Hidden 22/Mar/11 2nd
Laurence Everitt 19/Mar/11 Lead RP

Came back to get it clean with Rach, what a route!

Takacs 19/Mar/11 2nd dnf
with Laurence Everitt
Sgt. Vest 13/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with dan the man who can
dan ely 07/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with will
jimshrimp 02/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Gareth H ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Ben C ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Oct/10 Lead
Cragrat Rich 11/Oct/10 Lead

And on the eighth day, God dreamed up the idea of having rocks for man to climb and dutifully created Left Wall as his masterpiece! Climbed as a true ground up experience, four years after an obviously disappointing fall from top section with lower off. Very naive on tactics & strategy.... This time things were very different. In fact, i almost couldn't believe how easy it was! Utterly, utterly classic and absorbing througout!

Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
centurion05 09/Sep/10 2nd

direct finish

Adam Booth 01/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Mike W 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/10 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/10 -
Luis SD 27/Aug/10 Lead β
clive-greenwood 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt


with Anna
Neil Adams 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route!

with Andy N
Dale ?/Aug/10 Lead dog

was goin fine did the first 2metere of crux went to put gear in which nut 1 or 2 went for 2 didn't fit properly and got stuck cudn't get it out trying to get it out dropped all small nuts but caught them on my arm some how slipped them down arm in to teath. them got the 1 nut in did a couple of moves and fell off to pumped had a couple of rests after. what a route though, will be back next year

with johny
John Kettle ?/Aug/10 Lead
Katex ?/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Mike, Simon Edwards
Dave Foster 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Broke my phone on the Cromlech and bent my car just before setting off home. Still couldn't stop grinning though.

with Andy
LoopyLou 03/Jul/10 Lead dog

Gutted. Approached the climb all wrong. Placed too much gear and got pumped and gripped. All the hand holds are reasonable and none of the moves are desperate but it's very sustained with no big rests, and some poor foot holds add to the difficulty. Underestimated it and got spanked. I'll be back for it clean next year. At least I had the pleasure of watching an elegant climber master Right Wall.

with Alison Cairns
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
wilsonthewarrior ?/Jul/10 2nd
Bargate_Champ 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
jparry75 29/Jun/10 2nd
with niall davies
Martin Cleaver 24/Jun/10 2nd
with Dom Selers
Somerset swede basher 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Martin Cleaver
willoates 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S

direct finish next time :)

with Ed
Ri 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
barni 18/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Direct finiish

with luke
liamoloughlin 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Better gear than Cem. Gates and much better all together! Make sure you use the rests.

Ed Babs 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S


with Harry
greenclimb 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ows ?/Jun/10 Lead
adam coxsell 29/May/10 2nd
richardr 21/May/10 Lead O/S

Finally got on this and it flowed like a dream. Difficulty builds rather than the route being cruxy. Wonderful climbing!

Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
mattcyp88 15/May/10 Lead O/S

With the E3 direct finish. Going off left at the top just isn't the line at all.

with Rosie Wilson
jacobjacob 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Direct finish.

Hidden 15/May/10 2nd β
drcorbasisgod 01/May/10 Lead O/S
cem 01/May/10 2nd dog

Too cold to climb properly

JeromeT ?/May/10 Lead O/S
going going gone ?/May/10 Lead β

Very good climb.

Hidden ?/May/10 -
simon1965 24/Apr/10 Lead dog

loved it but not fit enough for forty metres of climbing. Will be back fitter and faster :)

Dave Rumney 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Tanya Milner
john lynch 23/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Amazing. such an incredible position to be in and the holds do keep coming.

with Lewis Andrew
John Pickles 23/Apr/10 2nd
with Kieran Hodgson
Bennykr 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Awsome climb, one of the best iv lead, schweeeet!!!! :D

with Duncan
Duncan Campbell 20/Apr/10 Lead dnf

fell right at the top of the crux!! DAMN! was pretty cold though but hey kept fighting and nearly got it! next time! hard

Ken Applegate 19/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Probably the best, and hardest lead of my life. So far...

The Green Giant 16/Apr/10 Lead dog

Missed the first jug to go out left by 10cm, got the crimp to the right of it instead and couldn't hold it. Climbed back up from where I stopped on the fall, realising how close I was to the jug...another day another time.

with Heather
Tomprusk 16/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Alex
eddy-on-the-rocks 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route.

with Rich
KKilroy ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Total class.

with O Hara
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/10 Lead dog
soph 01/Jan/10 -
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
samrad ??/2010 Lead O/S
with duncan
barni 05/Oct/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Oct/09 2nd
Paulww 05/Oct/09 Lead O/S

As good as its reputation.

Liam FLeming 05/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with barni
hervenuttall ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Sam Farnsworth
duzinga 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S

rock was freezing cold, couldn't feel my fingers half way up the climb. Left the crag feeling sick.

with Pete Harris
Jus 23/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd
gnc760 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Stunning. The culmination of three hot and busy days in north Wales. Bided time carefully until the crowds and sun dropped out of sight. Nabbed the ascent on Sunday evening in perfect conditions. Memorable.

with Rose Williams
DavidR 12/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Rose Williams 12/Sep/09 2nd

Fell off once just under the direct finish! Otherwise fabulously technical, fingery and enjoyable climbing!

with Gareth
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead rpt
barni 11/Sep/09 2nd O/S

direct finish

with Glyn
Nick Nitro ?/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Fell off at Crux twisting ankle.

billb ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Jus
HeatherF 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Wanted the E3 finsh-wimped out and ended up on the tantalising jugs and got the E2

with Jonny
GuyVG 22/Aug/09 Lead dnf

lost confidence on the right hand diagnol, gutted.

with Lee cooper
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
david morse 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S


with mikey R+Steve
melonmike 08/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Misha 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S

It had rained heavily overnight but the rock was drying in the morning wind, so we decided to slog up to the Cromlech to have a look. Mark didn't fancy the Gates in the end, while the Corner was soaked. Left Wall looked dry though so I decided to give it a go. Enjoyable, steady HVS 5a (short 5b section?) to the fork in the cracks. Fortunately the crux section proved to be easier than I had feared. Found lots of half-rests and hence managed to lace the diagonal crack - seven nuts from start to finish, 18 pieces in total. Great feeling getting to the easy ground on the arete. Still feeling the previous day's slate sport routes so had plenty of rests and took an hour to do the route. Mark did an excellent clean second. We had the crag pretty much to ourselves, just one other team on Dives. Now need to find another Snowdonian classic to dream about!

Hidden 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
chris sm 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
beci tointen ?/Jul/09 Lead RP
with my uncle carl
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead rpt
mux 14/Jun/09 2nd rpt

9 years after I had lead it and it was just as good

with Simon Frost ,
frost 14/Jun/09 Lead dog

psyched out after seventeen years of thinking about it. sat on the gear half way through the crux.

with D Garry
Owen W-G 14/Jun/09 Lead RP

Lobbed spectacularly off the finishing jugs on Saturday, returned Sunday to get the tick, but only just. A climbing and life highlight.

with Tony Seale
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead β
Hidden 01/Jun/09 2nd
jepotherepo ?/Jun/09 2nd
with Fran
SMc 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Anne
John Roe 30/May/09 2nd

Umable to climb the crux due to lack of strength/technique !

with Rob Patchett
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 02/May/09 Lead O/S

The fulfilment of a long-held ambition. Awesome.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
simonp ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Nicki Hearne
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd rpt
daniel hobbs ?/May/09 Lead O/S

good solid climbing all the way. very good climb.

smallerrich 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Birthday route - Unbelievable.

with Sam
Hidden 03/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Ian Parnell ?/Apr/09 2nd
with Matt Heason
sparkass 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
GPN 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

With the left hand finish - was feeling strong and should have gone straight up!

with Annette
net 21/Mar/09 2nd dog

Nearly made it...

with George
Mike Goldthorp 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Direct finish, perfect climbing

with Tom Dixon
Bill Lawrence 15/Mar/09 2nd

amazing climb, need more stamina for it though

with alex mason
Alex Mason 14/Mar/09 Lead

First route of the trip, enjoyed it all, how did i fail last time its all there!

with Billy Laurence
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
grady ??/2009 -

belaying a mate who fell of it, so climed to his high point on top rope then lead the last bit, felt i could of lead it, wish i had pulled the ropes!

Sally Lisle ??/2009 -
Hidden 29/Dec/08 Lead
PeteH 17/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Led to half-height on pre-placed pro from Lawrie's good effort, continued on up to the crux then wimped out and lowered off. Bah! Need more stamina. Absolutely gorgeous climbing though.

Lawrie Brand 17/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Late start, will be back..

Hidden 09/Oct/08 2nd O/S
datoon 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with K
khawk 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with DT
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Glyn 25/Sep/08 Lead RP

Yeah! Much easier second time round, enjoyable climbing

OffshoreAndy 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Ozzie Steve
Russell Birkett 22/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Sharp, Neil Buzby
CarolineH 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Dave
Bristoldave 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
lukehunt 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S

First time in the pass - Fantastic rock, good length and great moves, I will be back or more!

with Jon Stokes
HughM 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Iain Sharpe
Glyn 13/Sep/08 Lead dog

Ran out of steam on the top crux...so sustained!

with Clive Hudson (father)
centurion05 01/Sep/08 2nd O/S

direct finish

with Stu Harth
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd rpt
PenJD 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

What a route! Awesome position, lovely moves on big holds to the more physical crux. Loved it!

Matt Bennett 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S


Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead dog
Oli 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S


with Geraldine Taylor
Dan 85 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Francis
Owain Llewelyn 08/Jul/08 Lead
with Phil
Hidden 04/Jul/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/08 2nd
cornishben 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mike Raine
Sgt. Vest 23/Jun/08 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Tim Steward 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Helen Alderson
centurion05 17/Jun/08 Lead rpt


with chris thorne
Hidden 15/Jun/08 2nd
gregoritos 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with james
Stig 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S

With direct finish

with Greg
Hidden 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S
irish paul 02/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Sarah Joyce
jamesturnbull ?/Jun/08 Lead
with aiden
ksjs 31/May/08 2nd O/S

done with direct finish - a better finish for Left Wall

with geraldine
mattyork2 25/May/08 Lead β

Seconded and dogged 2005.

Wilbur 21/May/08 Lead O/S

I still can't quite believe that i actually got on this let alone got up it clean first go. First E2 onsight and i'm properly over the moon about it!

with Gareth
ChalkBall 18/May/08 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 18/May/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 16/May/08 2nd rpt
with anders
Brown 14/May/08 2nd β

Previously fallen on lead 2005

with Various International meet
dave o 13/May/08 Lead

i shall not embarrass myself by explaining the ethics of this ascent, suffice to say they were not perfect! great route though

with Julia H
Hidden 12/May/08 2nd rpt
Mark Warnett ?/May/08 Lead β

Seconded it years ago when i was a boulderer only. Lead was really intimidating, climbing first 1/3 on previous attempt's gear (he backed off)

bfreeman 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Nathan Laurence
Docent 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with sari
Hidden ?/Feb/08 2nd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
mr mills ??/2008 Lead rpt

the best E2 wall climb around ! try the direct finish, better !

with ioan d
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Will1 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Sarah
jude s ??/2008 Lead
with G Fry
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??/2008 Lead O/S
mbutton ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
Hidden ??/2008 2nd dog
tuftynick ??/2008 -
jeffmcd56 ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
C coldwell-storry 02/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Adam Gill
barni ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Nicos 19/Oct/07 Lead RP
with rich mansfield
Hidden 28/Sep/07 Lead O/S
French Erick 15/Sep/07 Lead dog

got so bloody tense for no reasons. It is sustain yet nowhere brich hard and well protected all along

with Andy Sharpe
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/07 Lead
sgl0jd 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S

sweet but a bit worrying when it started to rain half way up. left me grinning for a week

with Tom Devas
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 30/Jul/07 Lead dog
Ed Booth 30/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd dog
lukea 01/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Al
chris wyatt ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with hadyn/nik
sebrider ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Roby Rudolf
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd dog
ksjs 05/May/07 Lead rpt

yes! really pleased with this - much better than last year when i first tried it. great route, felt fine through crux, able to stop and lace it. glad when jugs arrived.

Hidden 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 28/Apr/07 2nd
with Ruth
Hidden 19/Apr/07 2nd rpt
DavidR 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S
middlevern 04/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 03/Apr/07 2nd
with Nick Verney
ali_robb ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/07 2nd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
Silum ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
tom.e 04/Nov/06 Lead dnf
with Pete
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Lead dnf
Stig 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Maciek
Hidden 08/Sep/06 2nd rpt
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 03/Aug/06 Lead O/S


with will sim
Hidden 03/Aug/06 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 06/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Got the big tick.....one very brilliant pitch which just keeps going but never too difficult.....moderate gear placements (11'ish)....no real jamming until the end just laybacking off the flake....the little traverse at the end seemed to pop up sooner than i expected and then it was over.....trick is to take all the rests you can get along the way....my second E2, so the grade seems fair....although no one move is that hard (excewt for the last bit of the crack as it slants out left)....defo 3 stars!!!

with Gareth
Hidden 04/Jul/06 2nd
waltersp ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead dnf
IOAN D 23/Jun/06 Lead O/S

jug fest!!

with gareth
reg_measures 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Richard Sharpe
dan gibson 13/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
feilx 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/06 2nd
Ram MkiV 30/May/06 Lead O/S

everything I hoped it would be. proper climbing.

with Alex
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 12/May/06 Lead O/S

Didn't feel as 'high in the grade' as many guidebooks suggest - nonetheless, you certainly get your moneys worth!

with Steve Sylvester
Hidden 10/May/06 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve ?/May/06 2nd O/S
with Tony Payne
Andrew Barker ?/Apr/06 Lead

Fell off before the crux in 2004, lead clean in 2006.

with Claudia Whitcombe
Boy ??/2006 -
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
cem 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Chubbard 07/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with C Godfrey
joe_alexander ?/Aug/05 2nd dog

no rests up intill the crux move left, soooooooooo pumpy, but great fun

with Robin
feckinlovebbq ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

sweet climb

with michelle mehers
Dangerous Dave ?/Aug/05 Lead dog
with Michelle
Apharri 27/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Mark A Humphries 22/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Karl Walton
Hidden 11/Jun/05 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/05 2nd rpt
mike lawrence? 01/Jun/05 -
with James Ellson
Ben1983 ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/05 2nd dog
Andy Campbell ?/May/05 2nd dog
with James
chrishedgehog 22/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Deg Bolger
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Chad123 ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Greg Smith and Jo Mallard
datoon ??/2005 Lead O/S
with RT
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
RossG ??/2005 -
Rob Pitt ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Chris Wood
clive-greenwood 11/Aug/04 Lead dnf
with Ray
Nathan Kemp ?/Aug/04 2nd rpt
with Matt cousins
Luke Gilbert ?/Aug/04 2nd
with Mike Soldner
joe c ook ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Dave Kerr 14/Jun/04 AltLd
with Karl Atherton
nicholas Barrowclough 07/Jun/04 Lead
ian bryant 31/May/04 Lead O/S
with dom
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
paul m hadley ??/2004 Lead
haydng ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/03 -
Samuel P 26/Aug/03 2nd
with Ric the Guide
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 24/Aug/03 Lead O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 09/Aug/03 Lead
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Aug/03 Lead
Urgles ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Straightforward but very good.

with Dave
nicholas Barrowclough 13/Jul/03 Lead
Mark Kemball 12/Jul/03 2nd
with Nic Dill
Hidden ?/Jun/03 -
rapidrich 28/May/03 Lead dog
with Zoe
Mike Hargreaves 26/May/03 AltLd O/S

Super steep and pumpy crack line. Took a rest near the top.

with Andrew Hutchinson
gonggashan ?/Apr/03 2nd
with Dan Perrott, Dave
westaway ??/2003 Lead
Darron ??/2003 -
Hidden 14/Sep/02 Lead O/S
KRB 10/Sep/02 Lead O/S

Drizzly wet and damp day. Only ones up at the crag. One or two holds wet but good climbing. Martin belayed from a puddle.

with unseconded
unfit 29/Aug/02 2nd
with ruth
shark 29/Sep/01 Lead rpt

The only trad lead of the year I think !

with Paul Reeve
Hidden 27/Aug/01 Lead
Brian Rodgers ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Phil Simister, Phil Authers
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
migs493 23/Sep/00 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 03/Sep/00 Lead O/S

After along wait.

with Ian Smith
Hidden ??/2000 -
mux ??/2000 Lead
with Mike Woodbridge
philhilo ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
bullybones ??/2000 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
VPJB ??/2000 -
skygodley 15/Sep/99 Lead O/S
Russell Lovett 10/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with Andrew Haigh Gede Gibon
Jon Read ?/Jul/99 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/May/99 Lead
AB1965 05/May/99 -
Mark Riley ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Richard Ibberson
Hidden 09/Apr/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
agagsgrot ?/Oct/98 2nd dog

Peeled off the upper part of the wall. Was enjoying it up to then.

with Pete
Hidden ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S
djmarko75 ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Roget 30/May/98 Lead rpt
with jon
jcbarber993 ?/Apr/98 2nd dog

Kev lead, but took a mean fall at 2/3 height. I made an amateur attempt to climb it. Awesome sustained climbing.

with Kev Page
Si Clapham ??/1998 Lead

Just get on it.....a truely brill route, jug fest

with Alun Richardson
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1998 Lead rpt
wolf.leeb ??/1998 2nd O/S
Shaved Atom ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
IanD353 ?/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Howard
Jon Read ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Glyn Stanworth
Hidden 29/Jun/97 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 31/May/97 AltLd dog
with Tim Malone
D Tempest 25/May/97 Lead
with Rick
michael burrows 06/Apr/97 Lead rpt
with brian jones
kp64zl ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S


with David Pickford
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Mar/97 Lead
with Chris Wentworth
phardman ??/1997 -
jameshiggins ??/1997 -
ste_d 18/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 18/Aug/96 2nd O/S
Julian Wedd ?/Aug/96 Lead

Fabulous route, lived up to the hype. Very good rest opportunity before the cruxy finishing section. Took full advantage of the rest to ensure success. Throughly enjoyable.

with A. Howarth
NickJH ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with NCrawshaw
Hidden 09/Jun/96 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/96 Lead
BenTiffin ?/Jun/96 2nd

Backed off. Robs first trad lead for 10 years including the direct finish

with Rob Scaife
ellis ?/May/96 Lead O/S
with Dan Long
Duncan I ?/Apr/96 Lead dog

We both fell off it a lot

with Jamie Fisher
kristian ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
WB ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Guy
GuyM ??/1996 -
robtrooper ??/1996 -
Hidden ?/Oct/95 2nd
Colin Edwards 16/Sep/95 Lead
with Steve Cox
Hidden 19/Aug/95 Lead
michael burrows 05/May/95 Lead rpt
with steve ward
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
switch ??/1995 AltLd O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
Hidden 23/Jul/94 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/94 Lead
jfletcher 01/Jul/94 Solo

Prior to leading Lord.

Evoman ?/Jul/94 Solo

Memorable route

with Jon Read
jamiev 30/Jun/94 Lead O/S

also 2nd in aug 2003 with adrian

with ruth
andyblain ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S

excellent route, great climbing, great gear, great position

Hidden 02/May/94 Lead O/S
rockaddiction ??/1994 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Laramadness ??/1994 2nd dog
with RF
shoulders 26/Sep/93 2nd O/S
with hywel, andy sharp, pete lewis, chrisevans
nai 02/Sep/93 Lead
with Roger Devy
goi.ashmore 18/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
Mick King 17/Aug/93 Lead
with Simon Walsh
D Tempest 14/Aug/93 2nd
with Rick
Marti999 ??/1993 Lead
MikeYouCanClimb ??/1993 -
Hidden 27/Jun/92 Lead rpt
Dave Pritchard 22/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Kate Greig
Tom V 20/Jun/92 2nd
with Glenn Watson
Andy Fielding 18/May/92 2nd
with Mark Lardner
Grezza ?/May/92 Lead O/S

Best ever E2. Awesome position

Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/92 -
with Paul Kallmes
adi bryant ?/Apr/92 Lead dog
with Ollie
mik1miller ??/1992 Solo
richparry ??/1992 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1992 Lead dog

1 fall while overprotecting the thin crack.

with Tim Dunsby, Ray Mardon
FATBOYFAT ??/1992 -
John Southworth ?/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 28/Aug/91 2nd
with Andy Mackay/Ian Kirby
Nick Biven 08/Aug/91 Lead O/S
whispering nic 26/May/91 -
with Graham Iles
Hidden 02/May/91 2nd
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Lead O/S

Well chuffed!

with stumpy
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Lead
with stumpy
Hidden ??/1991 2nd
richiebongo ??/1991 Lead O/S

Also lead it in 2000ish with Tanya

with Nick Smith
Hidden 10/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Paul Figg ?/Sep/90 Lead
mattnuttall 18/Aug/90 Lead O/S

Buzzing... sailed into 'the zone'.. looked down at about 100feet - hadn't placed any runners... better sail our of zone and put a wire in!

with Alan Holden
Hidden 08/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/90 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/90 -
Hidden 28/Jun/90 2nd
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/90 Lead

Done whilst Dave Thomas was making his famous solo of Lord of the Flies.

with Mark Lee
Mike Owen 05/May/90 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
g1m147 17/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Pete Adamson
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Fatts1 ??/1990 -
PaulHermes ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1990 Lead O/S

Waited a long time to do this. Overjoyed with the top half of the route.

with Hugh Woodland
jfletcher 25/Oct/89 Lead O/S

LUMC meet with Neil Thompson

with Neil Thompson
nigehughes ?/Sep/89 Lead dog
with Malcolm Boater
Hidden ?/Sep/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/89 Lead O/S
phardman 10/Jun/89 Lead O/S
michael burrows 04/Jun/89 Lead rpt
with pete roberts, brian jones
OMSKB ?/Jun/89 2nd dnf
Rich Kirby 28/May/89 Lead O/S
Andy Say 06/May/89 Lead
JimGoodman 03/May/89 2nd
with Roger
craig d ??/1989 -
mik1miller ??/1989 Lead O/S
with peter hadfield
ewar woowar ??/1989 Lead
rob.grafton ??/1989 -
with Bruce Perry, barry maybank
Hidden 22/Oct/88 Lead
Jim Fowler 05/Sep/88 Lead O/S
surfbish ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/88 Lead
robyn1 ??/1988 -
timbanton ??/1988 -
Hidden 07/Sep/87 Lead dog
Bruce Kerr 10/Aug/87 Lead

Jay was a USAF pilot on leave whom I met in Pete's Eats!

with Jay Philbrick
andybirtwistle 04/Aug/87 Lead
with Ian Kyle
amstel ?/Aug/87 Lead
with Niff
Hidden 05/Jul/87 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/87 Lead
michael burrows 24/Jun/87 Lead rpt
with ket
uphillnow 26/May/87 Lead

May 26th 1987 without incident. Had climbed in 1965 in the style of the day using some aid and on drilled out nuts. On gaining the top I held onto a very large spike (then present) to lean over to tell my second I was safe - spike failed - I fell 40 feet snapping the line runners on the top section of the route. Spike missed my belayer by good fortune or we might both have come off badly - he of course was body belaying in 1965 (Tony Clark)

with John Hubbard
charlesmfrench 26/May/87 Lead O/S
John Marsland 25/May/87 Lead dog
with Neil Bulloch
Hidden 20/Apr/87 2nd
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1987 2nd
Bulls Crack ??/1987 Lead O/S
with AM
Steve Crowe 29/Sep/86 Lead O/S
keefe 13/Sep/86 -
keefe 23/Aug/86 -
with Alan Wilson
neilh 22/Jun/86 Lead
with dave marsh
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/Jun/86 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/86 Lead dog
Gregory ??/1986 Lead O/S
shark ?/Oct/85 Lead O/S
with Charlie Stripp
Hidden 29/May/85 Lead O/S
Bob 08/May/85 2nd O/S

With the direct finish.

with J. Topping
Hidden 08/May/85 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1985 -
Gezzer ??/1985 Lead dog

One fall!

with Andy Towne
Steve Bell ??/1985 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 Lead
with Duncan Bond
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 Solo rpt

felt a bit scary at top...

Hidden ??/1985 -
Nevil ??/1985 2nd

Do not know year

with John
Hidden ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
sadams 20/Aug/84 Lead
with Chris Thwaites
Lone Rider 08/Aug/84 Lead dog

Fell as I traversed left, fingers just uncurled. Got back on and finished it

with Alan Shand
jonathan shepherd ?/Jun/84 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 05/May/84 -
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 23/Apr/84 2nd
keefe 14/Apr/84 -
Rob Davies ??/1984 2nd dnf

Date? Seriously unfit and couldn't get past 1st hard bit. Boris led easily with clapped-out EBs - toes sticking out of ends

Gordon Stainforth 30/Jul/83 Lead dnf

Failed at hard moves right below crux.

with Robert Barton
Hidden 14/Jul/83 Lead
Mark Kemball 04/Jul/83 2nd
with Tom Jones
Ian Jones ?/Jul/83 Lead O/S
with Geraldine Taylor
mark-abz 21/Oct/82 Lead
with Walter P
Ivan Machin 22/Aug/82 -
with Jon Mellor
Hidden 12/Jul/82 Lead
Nic Robinson ??/1982 -
steveboote ??/1982 Lead

With Andy Newton...one big fall (poor belaying)

RichardMc 02/Aug/81 2nd dnf
with Dave Langmead
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead
Andy Stephenson 24/Aug/80 Lead O/S

Just went for the top at speed!

with Chris Plant
Hidden ?/Jul/80 Lead O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1980 2nd
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
with Dave Spencer
Mark Kemball 20/Oct/79 Lead
with John Jefferies
mikej 04/Jul/79 2nd
with The Puerile Ticker
Mike Owen 16/Oct/77 Lead rpt
with John Roberts
unclesamsauntibess 01/Sep/77 Lead
Mike Owen 22/May/77 Lead O/S
with Jim Jewel
Hidden 15/May/77 2nd
steve L ??/1977 -
Hidden ??/1977 Lead
petemeads ?/Aug/76 Lead O/S

Lead in good style on my second attempt - first some time earlier when confidence was lacking. One of the best experiences ever (it was still hard in those days!) and I must admit to being sorry I repeated it 3 or 4 years later, being forced to rest on a runner due to unfitness - a shame to taint the memory. Never go back!

with Steve Taylor
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 158
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 155
Votes cast 145
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set