Lord of the Flies*** E6 6a
[Lord of the flies taken from Dinas Mot, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A stunning pitch for the rock athlete. Its first ascent was immortalised in an early climbing film with Ron Fawcett's, "Come on arms, do your stuff!" Take plenty of short thin slings and sky hooks to add to the limited protection. Start 3m right of Cenotaph Corner and climb the thin vertical cracks. Where they run out, continue direct to a series of thin ledges. Traverse right along these (here, a skilful climber can lasso a spike with their foot!) to dangerous moves up to a pocket. From the pocket, head up more easily for a short while until a go-ey few moves lead to another pocket with a runner and a nut out to the right. Move up and right to gain better holds that bring you to the Girdle Ledge. Thin moves up from here lead to a finger ledge that leads up to a faint groove. Follow this past a good wire, moving left to finish. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Super Route E6's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff.

Photo: Lord of the flies taken from Dinas Mot © Molly
View all 16 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 61 logbooks, and on 106 wishlists.

jamestaylor92 - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/15 with Neils

Hidden - 2015

Perfect end to summer! Chalked which undoubtedly helps, but felt onsight enough! Should be on everyones list.
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Henry Francis

Megga - Andy checked out the gear - and it was chalked up - dry, no midges, no excuses! Save something for the top!
piken - Lead - 13/Sep/14 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/14

What a route! An amazing experience, full on right from the start. The lower half is quite mentally taxing but the top headwall is amazing. A milestone, one which I won't forget for a while. Totally unchalked and I even managed to miss the peg-hole gear... brilliant!
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Dave Evans

Had abbed in the past and looked at kit to see how dodgy bottom bit is. Glad I did as it made me get on it and it's so good. Bottom third is necky. basically just hooks and a quick sprint up to the first big pocket and kit. Upper wall amazing!
Ed Booth - Lead β - 16/Jun/14 with Angus Kille

Hidden - Lead G/U - 15/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd - 2014

Lots of upping and downing. cheers for the patient belay Pete!
malx - Lead O/S - Sep/13

Stunning! Just unbelievable, how can a piece of rock climb so well and have such perfectly adequate gear placements! I thought some of the gear around the early crux might hold a fall, but the climbing is too good to fall off! Had watched Will and George on it the day before so had some idea on gear and where I was going (it was also well chalked) but it takes so much route-reading and foothold finding while your on it that it feels like an onsight regardless.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Duncan Campbell

Didn't feel right. Was getting more pumped than I expected to, so reversed to the ground. Should stay dry for a while though, maybe it will go soon!
Daniel Heath - Lead dnf - 08/Jul/13 with Brad

Intense. I was properly scared on this, an experience I will remember for a long time, just brilliant.
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/12

Blooming fantastic. Climbed in a roasting heat (not complaining), and without a speck of chalk to follow, which added to the sense of adventure considerably.
alaan - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Will

Karin belayed me when I led Lord in 1998 but she did not second me back then. I was impressed by Karin's lead today as it was very warm. Great to climb Lord again this time in comfort as her second!
Steve Crowe - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with KM

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Let go of the finishing holds, what an idiot. Came back the next day to finish it off.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead - 2011 with Nick Bullock

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10

With Eric
edinbed - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/10

Wow! close to tears topping out, just perfect. First E6, first time on an E6. Up to the second pocket is really serious, unless you could arange something in the old peg slot, (and the crux!) After that well protected run-outs and sustained climbing on finger jugs and crimps. Had to traverse into right wall on the girdle ledge to take my new boots off for a while. 7a. PSYCHED!!!!!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Mikey G

Just brilliant!
JulesV - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Shauna Cunningham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/09

Glyn - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/09 with Tony Stone

centurion05 - 2nd dog - Sep/09

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with rich cross

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/May/08

Brown - 2nd - 14/May/08 with Various International meet

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 07/May/08 with Mills

Jon Garside - Lead O/S - May/04

sadams - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/00 with Eric Hildrew

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Aug/99

Nick actually made it look hard: he fell off! (he had onsighted it prior to this ascent though)
Jon Read - 2nd - Jul/99 with Nick Bullock

faffed for too long, scary fall.
Roget - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/99 with baccy

Belayer did not follow.
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 22/May/98 with KM

switch - Lead O/S - 1998

pumped!
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/97 with Muir Morton

phardman - 1997

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Brilliant route. Returned to it and led it clean and in control although found it scary for first 40 feet. This was in contrast to the epic battle I had on it a few years previous to that where I ended up taking falls above the girdle and being top roped up the last bit not having the right bombproof runner for the top.
shark - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/94 with John Codling

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/94 with Alan Steele, Nick Wharton

Hidden - Lead - Aug/93

Hidden - Lead β - 27/Jun/92

Chris Wright - Lead - 30/May/91

Fell of last move, did second go. But hey first ascent without the peg and wet crux.
Steve Walker - Lead - 01/Apr/90 with paul entwistle

Hidden - 2nd - 1990

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/89 with Elaine Owen

jon - Lead - 20/May/88 with perry hawkins

robyn1 - 1988

keefe - 06/Jul/86 with Johnny Adams

mark mcgowan01 - Lead O/S - 1986 with Johnny Dawes

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/83 with Pete Chadwick, Harold Walmsley

dominic lee - Lead - 1982 with daniel lee

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
maxtaylor16, Dan724, jacob shieldhouse hadley, Jamie Skelton, harry_lewis, Jack93, Ash Sayers, Alice Thompson, Senna, Alex_RhodesUK, Timothy Miller, TommyMcG, theomoore, dswansonlow, gurumed, Tangerine_Kingdom, Daniel Heath, Permia, Nick Sillem, Betsy, quiffhanger, Andy Peak 1, anguskille, LJC, CM1992, jbulger, Tom Thorne, Nick Nitro, alexanderjwatts, jack1996, web10steelj, Michael Allday, wi11, jamestaylor92, Dino Dave, phil64, Bri.Moo, 1906johns, andy dunn, MorganPreece, MH123, willoates, Liam Ingram, rustaldo, Katy Nelson, markalmack, richiebongo, barni, Mike Goldthorp, Dan Lane, mike_clayton, trigger118, centurion05, mikekeswick, mr mills, datoon, fennerz, climber130887, Eccentric, tatz45, Enty, Ed Booth, chicken88, nicholas Barrowclough, joe c ook

Voting
Total votes cast 52
hard E70 of 17
E70 of 17
easy E70 of 17
hard E63 of 17
E68 of 17
easy E66 of 17
hard E50 of 17
E50 of 17
easy E50 of 17
hard 6b0 of 17
6b0 of 17
easy 6b3 of 17
hard 6a8 of 17
6a6 of 17
easy 6a0 of 17
hard 5c0 of 17
5c0 of 17
easy 5c0 of 17
3 Stars18 of 18
2 Stars0 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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