Rockfax Description
A classic and bold wall-climb that weaves its way up the stunning face right of Cenotaph Corner. Climb up to the leftward-slanting crack by an undercut at 5m. Follow this crack for 2m, then head up and right on good holds to the first ledge. Move up and left to reach a prominent spike and move left again on crozzly pockets up to reach the base of a slim groove. Follow this to arrive at the Girdle Ledge. Step slightly right, arrange crucial protection and climb the wall trending slightly leftwards to the porthole. Pass this, all guns blazing, aiming for a jug and the safety of the final ledge above. Pause and enjoy your position above the crux. Walk rightwards and finish up the crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, King of the Pass!, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Tom Livingstone 02/Nov Lead rpt
with Angus Kille, Tim Neill
robertmctague 17/Oct Lead O/S
with Theo
theomoore 17/Oct Lead β
GPN 14/Oct Lead rpt
with Annette
dswansonlow 02/Oct Lead O/S

Wahhooo! 1st E5. No chalk. No beta. Lots of anticipation. Safe runouts to keep you focused on the amazing climbing as it takes you for a full tour of the wall. Class!

with James Docherty
mynyddresident 11/Sep Lead

2nd time round. Fresher skin and conditions helped. Started hesitantly I think due to lack of warm up and the pressure I'd put on myself to do it before the weather crapped out. Still, found myself at the porthole having not climbed too directly this time and after having ropes dropped on me lower down. Found it tough here and spent 15 mins deciding the lob was okay before thinking otherwise and finishing. What an experience!

with Tony P
spidermonkey09 10/Sep Lead dnf

Arghhh! Read the sequence wrong moving up to the girdle ledge and took the ride, before bailing out to the arete from the ledge. No chalk on it definitely didn't help, route reading tricky. Actually a fair bit of gear after the initial section as long as you hunt around for it. One to come back for with the knowledge of the gear and the fear factor gone!

Misha 16/Aug Lead rpt

Nice to get this clean after falling off going for the girdle ledge last year. Think that time I strayed too far left from the yellow cam and ended up on Lord for a few moves. No chalk in the morning but Neil Dickson ran up it before me (I shouted some directions from Memory Lane as he couldn't remember where to do), so there was some chalk by the time I got on it and having done it before obviously helped as well. This time I went more direct from the yellow cam, past a rubbish sloping crimp - that was only one pull though and the holds got better after that so it felt easier this time (well, I didn't fall off!), though may be I was just less tired (last year I did it after a good day on Cloggy the day before and the Grooves in the morning). Still got a bit pumped in places so didn't exactly cruise it but nothing desperate. Long way off Lord though! Found what seemed like a good DMM red offset placement just before the Porthole - it resisted tugging down and out but was one of those unique offset placements which lifted out really easily when I stripped it on abseil (so now it's E4, ha!). Also placed a newly acquired skyhook on the finger jug at the Porthole for a laugh but it promptly fell off when I moved up! Needed a longer draw, something to weight it with and some bluetack! Again didn't find the moves past the Porthole any more than 5c, the moves to get up to it are actually harder but still only 5c. So just like last time I thought the crux was after the yellow cam but this time I did it in an easier way, still a bit of 6a though. 13 runners this time - plus the skyhook! Anyway, great route, definitely one for the 'desert island' list. Rach didn't second as she had an appointment to keep at the cemetery gates.

with Rach
wi11 16/Jul Lead β

As close to an onsight as you can have after living here for 4 years! Unchalked, would be easier chalked but still hard! Really good moves between good gear and rests

with Elfyn
Ed Booth 10/Jul 2nd rpt

nice one Ad

Adam Booth 10/Jul Lead rpt

Incredible climbing. What a stunning classic.

Dan724 19/Jun Lead O/S

Hyped this up loads over the years so it feels great to have finally done it. Really enjoyable climbing, I was smiling to myself the whole way up. Not too hard but a little scarier than I was expecting to the first ledge!

willsm11 16/Jun Lead β

Seconded this years ago but basically onsight.

with Ben Talbot
nawface 10/Jun Lead β
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 06/Jun 2nd rpt
with Pete Whittaker
Duncan Campbell 06/Jun Lead β

Finally! Have wanted to do this for a long time, but think I did it at the perfect time. Having watched Pete and Katy lead it first and got some gear beta off them I can't rightly claim a true O/S but with the wet patch in the middle I still had a real experience on it, especially with 5 years of dreaming about the route weighing me down! I actually found the middle section to be the crux. Absolutely made up and a great day at the crag, very high on banter.

with Pete Whittaker, Gus, Michaela "the champ" Tracy, Frogman, Robbie
Tom Livingstone 13/May Lead rpt
with Marianne Van Der Steen
morganator 13/May 2nd rpt
with International Meet Guest
breed 22/Apr Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead O/S

YYFY! So pleased to do this - a brilliant route.

with Colin
oliverpcain ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Harriet Ridley + John Bunney
phil64 ??/2015 -
mynyddresident 28/Sep/14 Lead dnf

boo, all good until the move to the porthole. Found the crimps super sharp, couldn't hack it.

with KP
HAJ Francis 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 21/Sep/14 2nd

So nice to second!

with Henry Francis
Joughton 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S
WB 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Wanted to do Resurrection, but was bullied into trying Right Wall. I'm claiming the onsight, but its tenuous considering the amount of advice I was given.

with Lakes Nathan, Andy M
markalmack 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Not bad.

with Richard
piken 13/Sep/14 2nd
with Will
wolf.leeb 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S

worthwhile... ;)

with nic
malx ?/Sep/14 Lead rpt

As it was getting dark. Took about 20 mins.

Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
jamestaylor92 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S
morganator 08/Aug/14 2nd O/S

4th time up it. Always a pleasure

with Dan Arkle
Ed morris 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Easier climbing than I anticipated but bolder than expected. The run outs are more fun than scary above sinker gear. Milestone route.

Alice Thompson 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Incredibly run out.. Wish I took some larger Cams up

with Max
Callum_Johnson 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Bold! Superb. Very happy to do it. Some hard sections. Didn't seem to have any of the right size cams!

with Uisdean
Uisdean hawthorn 21/Jul/14 2nd
Tom Livingstone 10/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Ben Alsford
Rachel Slater 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Happy! Holds are bigger than they look and so many rests! Just don't look down on the run-outs!

Hidden 01/Jul/14 2nd
Luxulyan 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
theotherpetehill 29/Jun/14 2nd β
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Finally got on this! Bit bolder than expected but with no beta sounds like I might have missed something (certainly didn't place any size 3 cams). Steady away though - I was too psyched to get scared.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 28/Jun/14 2nd
with Nick Bullock, Alex Haslehurst
GPN 22/Jun/14 2nd β

Much easier on the blunt end of the rope!

with Misha
Misha 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

Disappointed to fall off on the hard section after the yellow cam. Strayed too far left into Lord as moving up from the cam looked hard (actually there's just one poor hold as I discovered when I did it clean the following year), hung around too long trying to figure out what to do, went for it, pumped out and took a decent but safe fall. Had a shakeout, got back on and pulled through but it was close! My excuse was I was tired after a good day on Cloggy the day before and the Grooves in the morning. Going up to and past the Porthole was fine though. The whole route was worryingly run out, including the initial traverse right, but the holds get better every time it starts to get exciting and pumpy. Mega! Wish I'd done it clean onsight - had to come back the following year to do it clean. 12 runners including two yellow BD cams.

with George
nathanlee 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

After an epic day of wandering the pass procrastinating. Its not shit.

alexjz 17/Jun/14 2nd O/S

seconded Jimmy up this who blitzed it! Great route. One day...

with James Marjot
anguskille 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S

dead psyched, this one was one the list for a while, so glad to climb it. I found all the moves pretty steady, some shaking out to keep the pump off and plenty of searching to find gear! great route

Ed Booth 16/Jun/14 2nd rpt
C coldwell-storry 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead β
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
smallerrich 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Didnt place the second size 3 - Ended up pretty damn run out! Preferred resurrection if im honest.

samrad 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead G/U
Tom Livingstone 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Felt absolutely fantastic - right place, right time. Much easier and better than I expected. Enjoyable.

with Calum Muskett
Julian Cooper 22/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Ben Steel
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 17/Jul/13 Solo rpt

Went to boulder, got keen to solo cemetery gates, ended up soling right wall to the second girdle ledge. Sweet birthday treat.

centurion05 ?/Jul/13 2nd

Found it pretty tough, well out of fitness. very hot weather, port holes were dry.

with patch
Daniel Heath 20/Jun/13 Lead β

Amazing route. It started raining as I set off so I raced through the start before it could get too bad. The middle section was soaking and was pretty scary. Thankfully the top section dried up and went really well. Sequence wasn't obvious around the porthole but I went left to good sidepulls.

with Hayden Richards
tim newton 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Glad to be the first person on this since the last rain so it was all chalk free, though 1 pocket was pretty wet. Found the middle third harder than the top third. Each section is worth e3/4

with george dunton
khawk 09/Jun/13 Lead dog
with DT
mwatson 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
piken 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Finally after 15 years the rematch I was waiting for. And it was worth it.

with Andy
Hidden 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
miastacey 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Heather Clarke
dominic lee 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
switch 03/Mar/13 Lead rpt

looked like the first ascent of 2013 - all dry

with Vun
Hidden 03/Mar/13 2nd dog
captain ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead β
Ed Babs 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Awesome. Thank you for the encouragement Iain.

belay bunny turned bad 26/May/12 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead RP
willoates 25/May/12 Lead O/S

Well chuffed! milestone in my climbing, quality experience. The evening was made even better by Murdoch's OS of Lord minutes before! I found it less sustained but with a slightly harder crux than Resurrection but the wind didn't make it easy.

with Dave Rudkin
jacobjacob 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S

The warm up... good spaced gear, F6c.

Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Luke Brooks 02/Sep/11 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Amazing experience. Pumped and sacred. Luke seconded in near darkness. felt like an onsight but actually knew quite a bit about the route

with Luke
lx 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with will smith
Boy 09/Aug/11 Lead
with Ed Brown
mgeek 05/Aug/11 Lead β

Climber was on it as I was on True Grit. Tried hard not to look, but would be lying if i said i hadnae sneaked a peak!

with andy latta
Rob Pitt 27/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Lee Roberts
Owain Llewelyn 27/Jul/11 Lead

Definitely a milestone in my climbing career, absolutely made up.

with Gareth E
Adam Long 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Taxes the arms somewhat more than the brain. A landmark in anyone's career nonetheless.

with Ben Bransby
ollyroberts 25/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Ben
centurion05 12/Jul/11 Lead

An amazing day. The route was dry ish and chalk free. Getting to the first ledge was straight forward. The second section was tricky with spaced gear and the crux was a cruise. Getting above the port hole on the flatties was a dream. The finishing crack i thought would be tricky is easy because you've climbed a load harder low down. My best days craggin yet!

colesy 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

With Sarah

Dangerous Dave 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Wild Beast
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Lead
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
soph ??/2011 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 -
with Kat Spinney
Dave Turnbull, BMC 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Geoff Bennett
jamesturnbull ?/Jul/10 Lead

good day. right wall, left wall, corner, gates,Resurrection.

with alex hughes
ksjs 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

great moves, brilliant position, very memorable. found it hard not to be effected by route's standing, the climbing is however straightforward albeit with a few short, intense sections; decent stamina and ability to recover on good holds useful here. Fr 6b+/c overall. thought True Grip and maybe even Rimsky Korsakov were more demanding but the run-out to and through the porthole is interesting. no special gear needed (leave the micros at home) except maybe stacks of slings (think i placed 6 but could have placed more), some-well extended draws and the famous 2 x size 3 cams. 21 runners placed in total (including 2 in finishing crack) all of which were good to very good.

with pete
Martin Cleaver 24/Jun/10 2nd
with Dom Selers
Somerset swede basher 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Martin Cleaver
ksjs 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf
with owen
phil64 ?/May/10 Lead
with nick bullock
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 02/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Special climbing in the run-out sections. Amazing feeling to be on that wall. Lord, I'm coming for you!

Howard Lawledge ??/2010 -
with luke
richiebongo 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Hidden 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
barni 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Alex Mason 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Just dried it time for me to do it. No chalk on holds so route reading was paramount. The broken pocket was all wet also. Had a piss off first ledge then spent about an hour on the second ledge going up and down looking for holds, finally cracked it but felt hard. Amazing route, 3 easy E4s in a row.

Ram MkiV 22/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with Al
Hidden 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 10/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Fell off from good holds above port hole knackered.

bigie bob 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
lukehunt 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Brookes
Ed Booth 30/May/09 Lead

Awesome route, amazing to finish this route off finally!

Adam Booth 30/May/09 2nd
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead β
datoon 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
feilx 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
Russell Birkett 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S


with Dez
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/08 2nd O/S
mattyork2 25/May/08 2nd O/S
alaan 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Matt
Brown 14/May/08 2nd O/S
with Various International meet
Hidden 12/May/08 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
waltersp ?/Sep/07 2nd O/S

Awesine climb, felt quite bouldery given the ledge system so didn't feel that hard.

with Simon
malx ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S


IOAN D 02/May/07 Lead O/S

chuffing great

with Mills
Toby Dunn 26/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
ali_robb ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Mark Riley 08/Sep/06 Lead O/S

So nearly took THE fall going past the porthole...

with Tom Pascall
Ram MkiV 28/Jul/06 Lead β

knew a bit too much about this one for it to feel o/s! Anyway, found the lower crux out of large shattered pocket harder then higher crux, up to and out of porthole. Brilliant and enjoyable experience.

with Alex Barrows
Hidden 27/Jul/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 13/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
shark 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Rich Kirby 19/Jun/05 Lead rpt

A good day. Two E5's. Fell off RW 14 years earlier at the porthole!! Big fall. So it was a bit of a thorn in my side. What was all the fuss about.

with Ash
Gus 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S
jackgriffiths ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S

: )

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
JulesV ??/2005 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove ??/2005 2nd

Fell off twice on the middle pockety section on the lead so reluctantly handed over to junior and got it clean on the blunt end. Should have led it years ago when I had a full set of digits!

with David
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
with Kenton Cool
Hidden 10/May/00 Lead O/S
DJonsight ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ??/1999 Lead
BenTiffin ?/Jun/98 TR
with Gareth Field
Davros the Psyched ??/1998 Lead O/S
ellis ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
ste_d 01/Sep/96 2nd O/S
with mik
Hidden 03/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/96 Lead RP
Gregory ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with andy mcarthy
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S

with Ellis, and later, 2nding Ellis, Alan, Kate, Leanne...

Budge ?/Aug/95 2nd dog
Jon Garside ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Nifec14 ?/Jul/95 Lead β
with Tom Tomos, Mike pycroft
Dave Musgrove Jnr 03/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Martin Reynard
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
Roget 15/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with jon
mattnuttall 09/Oct/94 Solo O/S

write up on my blog... sketchy and spiritual experience... top of it was wet! Got a bit lost! Hmmm

Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
uphillnow 01/Jul/94 2nd
with Graeme Smith
whispering nic ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S

onsight apart from the description in extreme rock and having abbed down it a couple of years before...

with Kat
mikedelderfield 01/May/94 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 04/Sep/93 Lead O/S
with Bob Marks
Hidden ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
PaulTanton ?/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Andy McKay
jfletcher 16/May/92 Lead O/S
with David Gilkes
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Chris Wright 30/May/91 Lead
andybirtwistle 26/May/91 2nd
with John Earl
Seymore Butt ??/1991 -
Hidden 14/Jul/90 Lead
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with owen jones, geraldine taylor
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead O/S
with John Walters
Hidden ??/1990 2nd
Bruce Kerr 26/Jul/89 Lead
with Keith Turton
Alan James - UKC and UKH 23/Jul/89 Lead O/S
Dave Douglas 28/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with Neil Brodie
Pedro50 18/Jun/89 Lead β
with Nigel Preston
Hidden 24/May/89 Lead
Jim Fowler 05/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Peter Johnstone
robyn1 ??/1988 -
Steve Walker ??/1988 Lead

Great climb. I think I've lead it 4 times. E4 if you take 2 friend 3's. Oops maybe I sould'nd have said that.

with bryn roberts
sadams 13/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with unseconded
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Mike Owen 11/Sep/86 Lead rpt
with Gavin Peat
Hidden 25/Jul/85 Lead RP
keefe 02/Jun/85 -
with Johnny Adams
mark mcgowan01 ?/May/85 Lead O/S
with Graham Harrison
Hidden ??/1985 -
Bob 05/May/84 2nd O/S

Thought it was very easy at the time.

with Bill Birkett
Hidden ??/1984 Lead G/U
Mark Kemball 07/Jul/83 Lead

The big tick!

with Paul Clark
Ian Jones ?/Jul/83 Lead O/S
with Matt Boyer
Hidden ?/May/83 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/82 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/82 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 2nd
with Graham Parkes
Mike Owen 16/Sep/79 Lead O/S

That was the year it became a trade route and the myth was shattered. Notice "Hidden" did it in 1973. Interesting, Livesey didn't do it until 1974!

with Hugh Watkins
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 65
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set