Nice to get this clean after falling off going for the girdle ledge last year. Think that time I strayed too far left from the yellow cam and ended up on Lord for a few moves. No chalk in the morning but Neil Dickson ran up it before me (I shouted some directions from Memory Lane as he couldn't remember where to do), so there was some chalk by the time I got on it and having done it before obviously helped as well. This time I went more direct from the yellow cam, past a rubbish sloping crimp - that was only one pull though and the holds got better after that so it felt easier this time (well, I didn't fall off!), though may be I was just less tired (last year I did it after a good day on Cloggy the day before and the Grooves in the morning). Still got a bit pumped in places so didn't exactly cruise it but nothing desperate. Long way off Lord though! Found what seemed like a good DMM red offset placement just before the Porthole - it resisted tugging down and out but was one of those unique offset placements which lifted out really easily when I stripped it on abseil (so now it's E4, ha!). Also placed a newly acquired skyhook on the finger jug at the Porthole for a laugh but it promptly fell off when I moved up! Needed a longer draw, something to weight it with and some bluetack! Again didn't find the moves past the Porthole any more than 5c, the moves to get up to it are actually harder but still only 5c. So just like last time I thought the crux was after the yellow cam but this time I did it in an easier way, still a bit of 6a though. 13 runners this time - plus the skyhook! Anyway, great route, definitely one for the 'desert island' list. Rach didn't second as she had an appointment to keep at the cemetery gates.
Misha - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/15 with Rach
As close to an onsight as you can have after living here for 4 years! Unchalked, would be easier chalked but still hard! Really good moves between good gear and rests
wi11 - Lead β - 16/Jul/15 with Elfyn
nice one Ad
Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 10/Jul/15 with Adam Booth
Incredible climbing. What a stunning classic.
Adam Booth - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/15 with Ed Booth
Hyped this up loads over the years so it feels great to have finally done it. Really enjoyable climbing, I was smiling to myself the whole way up. Not too hard but a little scarier than I was expecting to the first ledge!
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/15 with James Williams
Seconded this years ago but basically onsight.
willsm11 - Lead β - 16/Jun/15 with Ben Talbot
nawface - Lead β - 10/Jun/15
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2nd rpt - 06/Jun/15 with Pete Whittaker
Finally! Have wanted to do this for a long time, but think I did it at the perfect time. Having watched Pete and Katy lead it first and got some gear beta off them I can't rightly claim a true O/S but with the wet patch in the middle I still had a real experience on it, especially with 5 years of dreaming about the route weighing me down! I actually found the middle section to be the crux. Absolutely made up and a great day at the crag, very high on banter.
Duncan Campbell - Lead β - 06/Jun/15 with Pete Whittaker, Gus, Michaela "the champ", Frogman, Robbie
Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 13/May/15 with Marianne Van Der Steen
morganator - 2nd rpt - 13/May/15 with International Meet Guest
breed - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/15
YYFY! So pleased to do this - a brilliant route.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2015 with Colin
oliverpcain - Lead O/S - 2015 with Harriet Ridley + John Bunney
phil64 - 2015
boo, all good until the move to the porthole. Found the crimps super sharp, couldn't hack it.
mynyddresident - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/14 with KP
HAJ Francis - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14
So nice to second!
nathanlee - 2nd - 21/Sep/14 with Henry Francis
Joughton - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/14
Wanted to do Resurrection, but was bullied into trying Right Wall. I'm claiming the onsight, but its tenuous considering the amount of advice I was given.
WB - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Lakes Nathan, Andy M
markalmack - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Richard
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with nic
As it was getting dark. Took about 20 mins.
malx - Lead rpt - Sep/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14
jamestaylor92 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Ed morris
4th time up it. Always a pleasure
morganator - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Dan Arkle
Easier climbing than I anticipated but bolder than expected. The run outs are more fun than scary above sinker gear. Milestone route.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/14 with James Taylor
Incredibly run out.. Wish I took some larger Cams up
Alice Thompson - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14 with Max
Bold! Superb. Very happy to do it. Some hard sections. Didn't seem to have any of the right size cams!
Callum_Johnson - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Uisdean
Uisdean hawthorn - 2nd - 21/Jul/14 with Callum_Johnson
Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/14 with Ben Alsford
Happy! Holds are bigger than they look and so many rests! Just don't look down on the run-outs!
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14 with James Oswald
Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/14
Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Tom Murrell
theotherpetehill - 2nd β - 29/Jun/14 with Ross McKerchar
Finally got on this! Bit bolder than expected but with no beta sounds like I might have missed something (certainly didn't place any size 3 cams). Steady away though - I was too psyched to get scared.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Peter Hill
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2nd - 28/Jun/14 with Nick Bullock, Alex Haslehurst
Much easier on the blunt end of the rope!
GPN - 2nd β - 22/Jun/14 with Misha
Disappointed to fall off on the hard section after the yellow cam. Strayed too far left into Lord as moving up from the cam looked hard (actually there's just one poor hold as I discovered when I did it clean the following year), hung around too long trying to figure out what to do, went for it, pumped out and took a decent but safe fall. Had a shakeout, got back on and pulled through but it was close! My excuse was I was tired after a good day on Cloggy the day before and the Grooves in the morning. Going up to and past the Porthole was fine though. The whole route was worryingly run out, including the initial traverse right, but the holds get better every time it starts to get exciting and pumpy. Mega! Wish I'd done it clean onsight - had to come back the following year to do it clean. 12 runners including two yellow BD cams.
Misha - Lead dog - 22/Jun/14 with George
After an epic day of wandering the pass procrastinating. Its not shit.
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Oli Grounsell
seconded Jimmy up this who blitzed it! Great route. One day...
alexjz - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with James Marjot
dead psyched, this one was one the list for a while, so glad to climb it. I found all the moves pretty steady, some shaking out to keep the pump off and plenty of searching to find gear! great route
anguskille - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Ed Booth
Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/14 with Angus Kille
C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/14 with Neil Chelton
Hidden - Lead β - 17/May/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14
Dan-Cheetham - 2014
Didnt place the second size 3 - Ended up pretty damn run out! Preferred resurrection if im honest.
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/13
samrad - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/13 with smallerrich
Hidden - Lead G/U - 01/Sep/13
Felt absolutely fantastic - right place, right time. Much easier and better than I expected. Enjoyable.
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Calum Muskett
Julian Cooper - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Ben Steel
Went to boulder, got keen to solo cemetery gates, ended up soling right wall to the second girdle ledge. Sweet birthday treat.
Alex Mason - Solo rpt - 17/Jul/13
Found it pretty tough, well out of fitness. very hot weather, port holes were dry.
centurion05 - 2nd - Jul/13 with patch
Amazing route. It started raining as I set off so I raced through the start before it could get too bad. The middle section was soaking and was pretty scary. Thankfully the top section dried up and went really well. Sequence wasn't obvious around the porthole but I went left to good sidepulls.
Daniel Heath - Lead β - 20/Jun/13 with Hayden Richards
Glad to be the first person on this since the last rain so it was all chalk free, though 1 pocket was pretty wet. Found the middle third harder than the top third. Each section is worth e3/4
tim newton - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with george dunton
khawk - Lead dog - 09/Jun/13 with DT
mwatson - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13
Finally after 15 years the rematch I was waiting for. And it was worth it.
piken - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Andy
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/13
miastacey - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Heather Clarke
dominic lee - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with nathan lee
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/13
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/13
looked like the first ascent of 2013 - all dry
switch - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/13 with Vun
Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Mar/13
captain - 2013
ejected - Lead O/S - 2013
Hidden - Lead β - 08/Sep/12
Awesome. Thank you for the encouragement Iain.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie
belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with loundsy
Hidden - Lead RP - 26/May/12
Well chuffed! milestone in my climbing, quality experience. The evening was made even better by Murdoch's OS of Lord minutes before! I found it less sustained but with a slightly harder crux than Resurrection but the wind didn't make it easy.
willoates - Lead O/S - 25/May/12 with Dave Rudkin
The warm up... good spaced gear, F6c.
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/12
Hidden - Lead - 2012
Luke Brooks - 2nd - 02/Sep/11 with Glyn Hudson
Amazing experience. Pumped and sacred. Luke seconded in near darkness. felt like an onsight but actually knew quite a bit about the route
Glyn - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Luke
lx - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with will smith
Boy - Lead - 09/Aug/11 with Ed Brown
Climber was on it as I was on True Grit. Tried hard not to look, but would be lying if i said i hadnae sneaked a peak!
mgeek - Lead β - 05/Aug/11 with andy latta
Rob Pitt - Lead rpt - 27/Jul/11 with Lee Roberts
Definitely a milestone in my climbing career, absolutely made up.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 27/Jul/11 with Gareth E
Taxes the arms somewhat more than the brain. A landmark in anyone's career nonetheless.
Adam Long - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Ben Bransby
ollyroberts - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Ben
An amazing day. The route was dry ish and chalk free. Getting to the first ledge was straight forward. The second section was tricky with spaced gear and the crux was a cruise. Getting above the port hole on the flatties was a dream. The finishing crack i thought would be tricky is easy because you've climbed a load harder low down. My best days craggin yet!
centurion05 - Lead - 12/Jul/11 with williamsd79
colesy - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11
Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Wild Beast
Hidden - Lead - 22/Mar/11
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011
Rory Shaw - 2011
Hidden - 2011
GeoffG - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
phil64 - 2011
soph - Lead O/S - 2011 with jon morgan
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2011 with Kat Spinney
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Geoff Bennett
good day. right wall, left wall, corner, gates,Resurrection.
jamesturnbull - Lead - Jul/10 with alex hughes
great moves, brilliant position, very memorable. found it hard not to be effected by route's standing, the climbing is however straightforward albeit with a few short, intense sections; decent stamina and ability to recover on good holds useful here. Fr 6b+/c overall. thought True Grip and maybe even Rimsky Korsakov were more demanding but the run-out to and through the porthole is interesting. no special gear needed (leave the micros at home) except maybe stacks of slings (think i placed 6 but could have placed more), some-well extended draws and the famous 2 x size 3 cams. 21 runners placed in total (including 2 in finishing crack) all of which were good to very good.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with pete
Martin Cleaver - 2nd - 24/Jun/10 with Dom Selers
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Martin Cleaver
ksjs - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/10 with owen
phil64 - Lead - May/10 with nick bullock
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10
Special climbing in the run-out sections. Amazing feeling to be on that wall. Lord, I'm coming for you!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/10 with james grey, alex mason
Howard Lawledge - 2010 with luke
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Nick Smith
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/09
barni - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09 with Glyn
Just dried it time for me to do it. No chalk on holds so route reading was paramount. The broken pocket was all wet also. Had a piss off first ledge then spent about an hour on the second ledge going up and down looking for holds, finally cracked it but felt hard. Amazing route, 3 easy E4s in a row.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Steve Ramsden
Ram MkiV - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/09 with Al
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/09
Fell off from good holds above port hole knackered.
Rob Pitt - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/09
bigie bob - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09 with Tom Brookes
Awesome route, amazing to finish this route off finally!
Ed Booth - Lead - 30/May/09
Adam Booth - 2nd - 30/May/09 with Ed Booth
Hidden - Lead β - May/09
datoon - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with K
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08
feilx - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Heather
Russell Birkett - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Dez
Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Neil Pope
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/08
mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - 25/May/08 with Alan Royle
alaan - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Matt
Brown - 2nd O/S - 14/May/08 with Various International meet
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/08
Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Rich Hatton
Awesine climb, felt quite bouldery given the ledge system so didn't feel that hard.
waltersp - 2nd O/S - Sep/07 with Simon
malx - Lead O/S - Jun/07
IOAN D - Lead O/S - 02/May/07 with Mills
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/07 with Ruth
ali_robb - Lead O/S - Apr/07
Hidden - 2007
Hidden - 2007
So nearly took THE fall going past the porthole...
Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/06 with Tom Pascall
knew a bit too much about this one for it to feel o/s!
Anyway, found the lower crux out of large shattered pocket harder then higher crux, up to and out of porthole. Brilliant and enjoyable experience.
Ram MkiV - Lead β - 28/Jul/06 with Alex Barrows
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/06
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/06 with john nuttal
Hidden - 2006
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006
shark - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05 with John Codling
A good day. Two E5's. Fell off RW 14 years earlier at the porthole!! Big fall. So it was a bit of a thorn in my side. What was all the fuss about.
Rich Kirby - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/05 with Ash
Gus - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/05
jackgriffiths - Lead O/S - Jun/05
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005
Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005
JulesV - Lead O/S - 2005
Fell off twice on the middle pockety section on the lead so reluctantly handed over to junior and got it clean on the blunt end. Should have led it years ago when I had a full set of digits!
Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 2005 with David
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003
Hidden - Lead - 2001
Hidden - Lead - 2001
tuftynick - Lead - 2001 with Kenton Cool
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/00
DJonsight - 2000
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1999
Steve Crowe - Lead - 1999
BenTiffin - TR - Jun/98 with Gareth Field
Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 1998
ellis - Lead O/S - Aug/97 with Simon Witcher
phardman - 1997
ste_d - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/96 with mik
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/96
Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Jul/96
Gregory - Lead O/S - Apr/96 with andy mcarthy
with Ellis, and later, 2nding Ellis, Alan, Kate, Leanne...
switch - Lead O/S - 1996
Budge - 2nd dog - Aug/95
Jon Garside - Lead O/S - Aug/95
Nifec14 - Lead β - Jul/95 with Tom Tomos, Mike pycroft
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/95 with Martin Reynard
Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe
Roget - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/94 with jon
write up on my blog... sketchy and spiritual experience... top of it was wet! Got a bit lost! Hmmm
mattnuttall - Solo O/S - 09/Oct/94
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/94
uphillnow - 2nd - 01/Jul/94 with Graeme Smith
onsight apart from the description in extreme rock and having abbed down it a couple of years before...
whispering nic - Lead O/S - Jul/94 with Kat
mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/May/94 with Steven Delderfield
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/93 with Bob Marks
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/93
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Jun/92 with Andy McKay
jfletcher - Lead O/S - 16/May/92 with David Gilkes
Hidden - Lead - 1992
Chris Wright - Lead - 30/May/91
andybirtwistle - 2nd - 26/May/91 with John Earl
Seymore Butt - 1991
Hidden - Lead - 14/Jul/90
mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990 with owen jones, geraldine taylor
andy gittins - Lead O/S - 1990 with John Walters
Hidden - 2nd - 1990
Bruce Kerr - Lead - 26/Jul/89 with Keith Turton
Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/89 with Ollie Ryall
Dave Douglas - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/89 with Neil Brodie
Pedro50 - Lead β - 18/Jun/89 with Nigel Preston
Hidden - Lead - 24/May/89
Jim Fowler - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/88 with Peter Johnstone
robyn1 - 1988
Great climb. I think I've lead it 4 times. E4 if you take 2 friend 3's. Oops maybe I sould'nd have said that.
Steve Walker - Lead - 1988 with bryn roberts
sadams - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/87 with unseconded
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/86 with Gavin Peat
Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Jul/85
keefe - 02/Jun/85 with Johnny Adams
mark mcgowan01 - Lead O/S - May/85 with Graham Harrison
Hidden - 1985
Thought it was very easy at the time.
Bob - 2nd O/S - 05/May/84 with Bill Birkett
Hidden - Lead G/U - 1984
The big tick!
Mark Kemball - Lead - 07/Jul/83 with Paul Clark
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Jul/83 with Matt Boyer
Hidden - Lead - 1983
Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/82
Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/82
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 1980 with Graham Parkes
That was the year it became a trade route and the myth was shattered. Notice "Hidden" did it in 1973. Interesting, Livesey didn't do it until 1974!
Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/79 with Hugh Watkins
Hidden - 1973