Right Wall*** E5 6a
[Low on Right Wall, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A classic and bold wall-climb that weaves its way up the stunning face right of Cenotaph Corner. Climb up to the leftward-slanting crack by an undercut at 5m. Follow this crack for 2m, then head up and right on good holds to the first ledge. Move up and left to reach a prominent spike and move left again on crozzly pockets up to reach the base of a slim groove. Follow this to arrive at the Girdle Ledge. Step slightly right, arrange crucial protection and climb the wall trending slightly leftwards to the porthole. Pass this, all guns blazing, aiming for a jug and the safety of the final ledge above. Pause and enjoy your position above the crux. Walk rightwards and finish up the crack. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, King of the Pass!, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: Low on Right Wall © Dave Emms
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This climb is in 223 logbooks, and on 190 wishlists.

Wahhooo! 1st E5. No chalk. No beta. Lots of anticipation. Safe runouts to keep you focused on the amazing climbing as it takes you for a full tour of the wall. Class!
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/15 with James Docherty

2nd time round. Fresher skin and conditions helped. Started hesitantly I think due to lack of warm up and the pressure I'd put on myself to do it before the weather crapped out. Still, found myself at the porthole having not climbed too directly this time and after having ropes dropped on me lower down. Found it tough here and spent 15 mins deciding the lob was okay before thinking otherwise and finishing. What an experience!
mynyddresident - Lead - 11/Sep/15 with Tony P

Arghhh! Read the sequence wrong moving up to the girdle ledge and took the ride, before bailing out to the arete from the ledge. No chalk on it definitely didn't help, route reading tricky. Actually a fair bit of gear after the initial section as long as you hunt around for it. One to come back for with the knowledge of the gear and the fear factor gone!
spidermonkey09 - Lead dnf - 10/Sep/15 with Ellie Fuller

Nice to get this clean after falling off going for the girdle ledge last year. Think that time I strayed too far left from the yellow cam and ended up on Lord for a few moves. No chalk in the morning but Neil Dickson ran up it before me (I shouted some directions from Memory Lane as he couldn't remember where to do), so there was some chalk by the time I got on it and having done it before obviously helped as well. This time I went more direct from the yellow cam, past a rubbish sloping crimp - that was only one pull though and the holds got better after that so it felt easier this time (well, I didn't fall off!), though may be I was just less tired (last year I did it after a good day on Cloggy the day before and the Grooves in the morning). Still got a bit pumped in places so didn't exactly cruise it but nothing desperate. Long way off Lord though! Found what seemed like a good DMM red offset placement just before the Porthole - it resisted tugging down and out but was one of those unique offset placements which lifted out really easily when I stripped it on abseil (so now it's E4, ha!). Also placed a newly acquired skyhook on the finger jug at the Porthole for a laugh but it promptly fell off when I moved up! Needed a longer draw, something to weight it with and some bluetack! Again didn't find the moves past the Porthole any more than 5c, the moves to get up to it are actually harder but still only 5c. So just like last time I thought the crux was after the yellow cam but this time I did it in an easier way, still a bit of 6a though. 13 runners this time - plus the skyhook! Anyway, great route, definitely one for the 'desert island' list. Rach didn't second as she had an appointment to keep at the cemetery gates.
Misha - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/15 with Rach

As close to an onsight as you can have after living here for 4 years! Unchalked, would be easier chalked but still hard! Really good moves between good gear and rests
wi11 - Lead β - 16/Jul/15 with Elfyn

nice one Ad
Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 10/Jul/15 with Adam Booth

Incredible climbing. What a stunning classic.
Adam Booth - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/15 with Ed Booth

Hyped this up loads over the years so it feels great to have finally done it. Really enjoyable climbing, I was smiling to myself the whole way up. Not too hard but a little scarier than I was expecting to the first ledge!
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/15 with James Williams

Seconded this years ago but basically onsight.
willsm11 - Lead β - 16/Jun/15 with Ben Talbot

nawface - Lead β - 10/Jun/15

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2nd rpt - 06/Jun/15 with Pete Whittaker

Finally! Have wanted to do this for a long time, but think I did it at the perfect time. Having watched Pete and Katy lead it first and got some gear beta off them I can't rightly claim a true O/S but with the wet patch in the middle I still had a real experience on it, especially with 5 years of dreaming about the route weighing me down! I actually found the middle section to be the crux. Absolutely made up and a great day at the crag, very high on banter.
Duncan Campbell - Lead β - 06/Jun/15 with Pete Whittaker, Gus, Michaela "the champ" Tracy, Frogman, Robbie

Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 13/May/15 with Marianne Van Der Steen

morganator - 2nd rpt - 13/May/15 with International Meet Guest

breed - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/15

YYFY! So pleased to do this - a brilliant route.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2015 with Colin

oliverpcain - Lead O/S - 2015 with Harriet Ridley + John Bunney

phil64 - 2015

boo, all good until the move to the porthole. Found the crimps super sharp, couldn't hack it.
mynyddresident - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/14 with KP

HAJ Francis - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14

So nice to second!
nathanlee - 2nd - 21/Sep/14 with Henry Francis

Joughton - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/14

Wanted to do Resurrection, but was bullied into trying Right Wall. I'm claiming the onsight, but its tenuous considering the amount of advice I was given.
WB - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Lakes Nathan, Andy M

Not bad.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Richard

worthwhile... ;)
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with nic

As it was getting dark. Took about 20 mins.
malx - Lead rpt - Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14

jamestaylor92 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Ed morris

4th time up it. Always a pleasure
morganator - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Dan Arkle

Easier climbing than I anticipated but bolder than expected. The run outs are more fun than scary above sinker gear. Milestone route.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/14 with James Taylor

Incredibly run out.. Wish I took some larger Cams up
Alice Thompson - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14 with Max

Bold! Superb. Very happy to do it. Some hard sections. Didn't seem to have any of the right size cams!
Callum_Johnson - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Uisdean

Uisdean hawthorn - 2nd - 21/Jul/14 with Callum_Johnson

Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/14 with Ben Alsford

Happy! Holds are bigger than they look and so many rests! Just don't look down on the run-outs!
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14 with James Oswald

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/14

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Tom Murrell

theotherpetehill - 2nd β - 29/Jun/14 with Ross McKerchar

Finally got on this! Bit bolder than expected but with no beta sounds like I might have missed something (certainly didn't place any size 3 cams). Steady away though - I was too psyched to get scared.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Peter Hill

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2nd - 28/Jun/14 with Nick Bullock, Alex Haslehurst

Much easier on the blunt end of the rope!
GPN - 2nd β - 22/Jun/14 with Misha

Disappointed to fall off on the hard section after the yellow cam. Strayed too far left into Lord as moving up from the cam looked hard (actually there's just one poor hold as I discovered when I did it clean the following year), hung around too long trying to figure out what to do, went for it, pumped out and took a decent but safe fall. Had a shakeout, got back on and pulled through but it was close! My excuse was I was tired after a good day on Cloggy the day before and the Grooves in the morning. Going up to and past the Porthole was fine though. The whole route was worryingly run out, including the initial traverse right, but the holds get better every time it starts to get exciting and pumpy. Mega! Wish I'd done it clean onsight - had to come back the following year to do it clean. 12 runners including two yellow BD cams.
Misha - Lead dog - 22/Jun/14 with George

After an epic day of wandering the pass procrastinating. Its not shit.
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Oli Grounsell

seconded Jimmy up this who blitzed it! Great route. One day...
alexjz - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with James Marjot

dead psyched, this one was one the list for a while, so glad to climb it. I found all the moves pretty steady, some shaking out to keep the pump off and plenty of searching to find gear! great route
anguskille - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/14 with Angus Kille

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/14 with Neil Chelton

Hidden - Lead β - 17/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

Didnt place the second size 3 - Ended up pretty damn run out! Preferred resurrection if im honest.
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/13

samrad - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/13 with smallerrich

Hidden - Lead G/U - 01/Sep/13

Felt absolutely fantastic - right place, right time. Much easier and better than I expected. Enjoyable.
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Calum Muskett

Julian Cooper - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Ben Steel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/13

Went to boulder, got keen to solo cemetery gates, ended up soling right wall to the second girdle ledge. Sweet birthday treat.
Alex Mason - Solo rpt - 17/Jul/13

Found it pretty tough, well out of fitness. very hot weather, port holes were dry.
centurion05 - 2nd - Jul/13 with patch

Amazing route. It started raining as I set off so I raced through the start before it could get too bad. The middle section was soaking and was pretty scary. Thankfully the top section dried up and went really well. Sequence wasn't obvious around the porthole but I went left to good sidepulls.
Daniel Heath - Lead β - 20/Jun/13 with Hayden Richards

Glad to be the first person on this since the last rain so it was all chalk free, though 1 pocket was pretty wet. Found the middle third harder than the top third. Each section is worth e3/4
tim newton - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with george dunton

khawk - Lead dog - 09/Jun/13 with DT

mwatson - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

Finally after 15 years the rematch I was waiting for. And it was worth it.
piken - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/13

miastacey - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Heather Clarke

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with nathan lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/13

looked like the first ascent of 2013 - all dry
switch - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/13 with Vun

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Mar/13

captain - 2013

ejected - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Sep/12

Awesome. Thank you for the encouragement Iain.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/May/12

Well chuffed! milestone in my climbing, quality experience. The evening was made even better by Murdoch's OS of Lord minutes before! I found it less sustained but with a slightly harder crux than Resurrection but the wind didn't make it easy.
willoates - Lead O/S - 25/May/12 with Dave Rudkin

The warm up... good spaced gear, F6c.
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 2012

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 02/Sep/11 with Glyn Hudson

Amazing experience. Pumped and sacred. Luke seconded in near darkness. felt like an onsight but actually knew quite a bit about the route
Glyn - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Luke

lx - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with will smith

Boy - Lead - 09/Aug/11 with Ed Brown

Climber was on it as I was on True Grit. Tried hard not to look, but would be lying if i said i hadnae sneaked a peak!
mgeek - Lead β - 05/Aug/11 with andy latta

Rob Pitt - Lead rpt - 27/Jul/11 with Lee Roberts

Definitely a milestone in my climbing career, absolutely made up.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 27/Jul/11 with Gareth E

Taxes the arms somewhat more than the brain. A landmark in anyone's career nonetheless.
Adam Long - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Ben Bransby

ollyroberts - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Ben

An amazing day. The route was dry ish and chalk free. Getting to the first ledge was straight forward. The second section was tricky with spaced gear and the crux was a cruise. Getting above the port hole on the flatties was a dream. The finishing crack i thought would be tricky is easy because you've climbed a load harder low down. My best days craggin yet!
centurion05 - Lead - 12/Jul/11 with williamsd79

With Sarah
colesy - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Wild Beast

Hidden - Lead - 22/Mar/11

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

phil64 - 2011

soph - Lead O/S - 2011 with jon morgan

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2011 with Kat Spinney

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Geoff Bennett

good day. right wall, left wall, corner, gates,Resurrection.
jamesturnbull - Lead - Jul/10 with alex hughes

great moves, brilliant position, very memorable. found it hard not to be effected by route's standing, the climbing is however straightforward albeit with a few short, intense sections; decent stamina and ability to recover on good holds useful here. Fr 6b+/c overall. thought True Grip and maybe even Rimsky Korsakov were more demanding but the run-out to and through the porthole is interesting. no special gear needed (leave the micros at home) except maybe stacks of slings (think i placed 6 but could have placed more), some-well extended draws and the famous 2 x size 3 cams. 21 runners placed in total (including 2 in finishing crack) all of which were good to very good.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with pete

Martin Cleaver - 2nd - 24/Jun/10 with Dom Selers

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Martin Cleaver

ksjs - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/10 with owen

phil64 - Lead - May/10 with nick bullock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

Special climbing in the run-out sections. Amazing feeling to be on that wall. Lord, I'm coming for you!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/10 with james grey, alex mason

Howard Lawledge - 2010 with luke

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Nick Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/09

barni - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09 with Glyn

Just dried it time for me to do it. No chalk on holds so route reading was paramount. The broken pocket was all wet also. Had a piss off first ledge then spent about an hour on the second ledge going up and down looking for holds, finally cracked it but felt hard. Amazing route, 3 easy E4s in a row.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Steve Ramsden

Ram MkiV - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/09 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/09

Fell off from good holds above port hole knackered.
Rob Pitt - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/09

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09 with Tom Brookes

Awesome route, amazing to finish this route off finally!
Ed Booth - Lead - 30/May/09

Adam Booth - 2nd - 30/May/09 with Ed Booth

Hidden - Lead β - May/09

datoon - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with K

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08

feilx - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Heather

Russell Birkett - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Dez

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Neil Pope

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/08

mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - 25/May/08 with Alan Royle

alaan - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Matt

Brown - 2nd O/S - 14/May/08 with Various International meet

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/08

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Rich Hatton

Awesine climb, felt quite bouldery given the ledge system so didn't feel that hard.
waltersp - 2nd O/S - Sep/07 with Simon

malx - Lead O/S - Jun/07

chuffing great
IOAN D - Lead O/S - 02/May/07 with Mills

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/07 with Ruth

ali_robb - Lead O/S - Apr/07

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2007

So nearly took THE fall going past the porthole...
Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/06 with Tom Pascall

knew a bit too much about this one for it to feel o/s! Anyway, found the lower crux out of large shattered pocket harder then higher crux, up to and out of porthole. Brilliant and enjoyable experience.
Ram MkiV - Lead β - 28/Jul/06 with Alex Barrows

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/06 with john nuttal

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

shark - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05 with John Codling

A good day. Two E5's. Fell off RW 14 years earlier at the porthole!! Big fall. So it was a bit of a thorn in my side. What was all the fuss about.
Rich Kirby - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/05 with Ash

Gus - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/05

: )
jackgriffiths - Lead O/S - Jun/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2005

Fell off twice on the middle pockety section on the lead so reluctantly handed over to junior and got it clean on the blunt end. Should have led it years ago when I had a full set of digits!
Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 2005 with David

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 2001

Hidden - Lead - 2001

tuftynick - Lead - 2001 with Kenton Cool

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/00

DJonsight - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1999

Steve Crowe - Lead - 1999

BenTiffin - TR - Jun/98 with Gareth Field

Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 1998

ellis - Lead O/S - Aug/97 with Simon Witcher

phardman - 1997

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/96 with mik

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/96

Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Jul/96

Gregory - Lead O/S - Apr/96 with andy mcarthy

with Ellis, and later, 2nding Ellis, Alan, Kate, Leanne...
switch - Lead O/S - 1996

Budge - 2nd dog - Aug/95

Jon Garside - Lead O/S - Aug/95

Nifec14 - Lead β - Jul/95 with Tom Tomos, Mike pycroft

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/95 with Martin Reynard

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Roget - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/94 with jon

write up on my blog... sketchy and spiritual experience... top of it was wet! Got a bit lost! Hmmm
mattnuttall - Solo O/S - 09/Oct/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/94

uphillnow - 2nd - 01/Jul/94 with Graeme Smith

onsight apart from the description in extreme rock and having abbed down it a couple of years before...
whispering nic - Lead O/S - Jul/94 with Kat

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/May/94 with Steven Delderfield

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/93 with Bob Marks

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/93

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Jun/92 with Andy McKay

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 16/May/92 with David Gilkes

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Chris Wright - Lead - 30/May/91

andybirtwistle - 2nd - 26/May/91 with John Earl

Seymore Butt - 1991

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jul/90

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990 with owen jones, geraldine taylor

andy gittins - Lead O/S - 1990 with John Walters

Hidden - 2nd - 1990

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 26/Jul/89 with Keith Turton

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/89 with Ollie Ryall

Dave Douglas - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/89 with Neil Brodie

Pedro50 - Lead β - 18/Jun/89 with Nigel Preston

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/89

Jim Fowler - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/88 with Peter Johnstone

robyn1 - 1988

Great climb. I think I've lead it 4 times. E4 if you take 2 friend 3's. Oops maybe I sould'nd have said that.
Steve Walker - Lead - 1988 with bryn roberts

sadams - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/87 with unseconded

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/86 with Gavin Peat

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Jul/85

keefe - 02/Jun/85 with Johnny Adams

mark mcgowan01 - Lead O/S - May/85 with Graham Harrison

Hidden - 1985

Thought it was very easy at the time.
Bob - 2nd O/S - 05/May/84 with Bill Birkett

Hidden - Lead G/U - 1984

The big tick!
Mark Kemball - Lead - 07/Jul/83 with Paul Clark

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Jul/83 with Matt Boyer

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/82

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/82

Chris Craggs - 2nd - 1980 with Graham Parkes

That was the year it became a trade route and the myth was shattered. Notice "Hidden" did it in 1973. Interesting, Livesey didn't do it until 1974!
Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/79 with Hugh Watkins

Hidden - 1973

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Total votes cast 183
hard E60 of 65
E60 of 65
easy E61 of 65
hard E51 of 65
E535 of 65
easy E524 of 65
hard E44 of 65
E40 of 65
easy E40 of 65
hard 6b0 of 62
6b0 of 62
easy 6b0 of 62
hard 6a1 of 62
6a37 of 62
easy 6a22 of 62
hard 5c2 of 62
5c0 of 62
easy 5c0 of 62
3 Stars56 of 56
2 Stars0 of 56
1 Star0 of 56
0 Stars0 of 56
Bag of .....0 of 56
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP