Haute Savoie > Mont Blanc du Tacul >
 
Chèré Couloir*** D

Adjacent Climbs
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Goulotte Perroux (Perroux Gully) >>
[chere at mid afternoon - no crowds and no sun, 2 kb]350m, 5 pitches. Couloir ice climb. Approach from Midi Station or Abri Simond Bivouac Hut in less than one hour. Cross bergshrund and then climb 4-5 pitches to top. Can descend from the normal route leading up Mt. Blanc du Tacul or if not too busy in the couloir, rappel the route to it's start.
R. Chere and J. Tranchant 18/Aug/1973

Photo: chere at mid afternoon - no crowds and no sun © willbris3
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 241 logbooks, and on 66 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/May/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/12

bandersnatch - AltLd - Oct/12

BorisVBlade - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/12 with Guillaume Billardon

machars - AltLd - 21/Sep/12 with Neil

Led P2 & 4
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/12 with Mike Wild

Hidden - Lead - Sep/12

Ashley Hold - 2nd - Sep/12 with Torquil Bennett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/12

jameslam - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/12 with Charlie Thorneycroft

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12 with James M

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/12

Busy to start with, but two teams abseiled after the first pitch, leaving only us and one other to enjoy climbing all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Highly recommended!
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 08/Jul/12 with Scott Kirkhope

Jack.H.92 - 07/Jul/12

luke321 - Jul/12 with Jack Hodgson, Tom Jagger

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 27/Jun/12

Lots of ice fall for the whole climb, bailed on the last pitch when it got too bad
AdamH - 27/Jun/12

0730 Hrs start from Cosmiques hut. Only punters at the hut and first on the mountain. Perfect conditions.
frqnt - 2nd - 07/Jun/12

DrJon - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/12 with Andy O

Hidden - AltLd RP - 17/May/12

guy757 - 09/Apr/12

Started the climb at 5.45pm. Simul climbed first two pitches. Then pitched the next 3. Very easy climbing in a stunning setting, with no one to be seen or heard. Finished last pitch as sun was setting. Crossed the valley Blanche in knee to waist deep snow and arrived at our tent at 10pm
Rick Ashton - Lead - 08/Apr/12 with Bruno Schull

Very chopped and easy, but a nice day out in the sun, and we where the only ones on it! Sadly our only climb on this trip.
alpinestar_no1 - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Sune Buur

Sublime abseil descent at sunset to the sound of churchbells from the Chamonix valley.
Ly-Cilph - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Piet W

chalk monster - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with richard

Went to do 1 of the gullies to the right but they both looked a bit thin so we did this again.
HarryB - AltLd rpt - 29/Mar/12 with Luca

Our route for today wasn't in so we came back and lead the alternate pitches. Odd pitches this time, and much more fun once acclimatised.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Harry

HarryB - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Luca

Twice in three days. Lead even pitches first time.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Harry

rosieposey14 - 2012

Hidden - Solo rpt - 30/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/11

highclimber - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/11

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/11 with Nick Valentine

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/11

roberto18 - AltLd - 31/Aug/11 with Tom Nickols

Hidden - 30/Aug/11

Bradders - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

Good conditions although main pitches stepped out. Ab'ed off from the top of the couloir. Needed about 10 abs due to only having a single rope.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Mike Lelliot

Great route. Bergschrund easy to cross and route was quite stepped out in the steep sections. Steepest route I've climbed in the Alps so far.
MikeLell - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Lee Harrison

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11

1hr 40 to top of difficulties... Awesome climb!
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Steve Seale

gowla - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with adam booth

3 stars, only ones on it after a really cold start and 0 vis. Ice in good condition, slightly brittle. Full on winter conditions at the start, snowing + cold wind. Nice view of Aiguille Du Midi at the top though!
geoff.comley - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/11 with Dan Carrol

Lead moving together first three pitches. Dom lead pitches 4 and 5. Very stepped out this late in the season.
The Mountain Goat - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Dom Sellers

Tracked out.
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Jon Miles

np134 - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with C. Price

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11

Easier than expected. Lots of traffic so very stepped out. Had the route to ourselves in the afternoon.
Caspar - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Clay Conlon

Started the route in the early afternoon, and so had it to ourselves. Very stepped out at the moment.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Caspian

Camdenelectric - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Jack Doyle - 2nd - 25/Jul/11 with Padraig, Derek

Perfect morning route to round off 8 weeks in Cham
Petarghh - Lead - 16/Jul/11

twright180 - 16/Jul/11 with John McCune

Hidden - Solo - 16/Jul/11

knicos - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11

Jack Doyle - 2nd - 11/Jul/11 with Derek

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/11

Finished via mixed ground at the top and walked off. Easier than expected due to traffic.
RKernan - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Conor Gilmour

Ice in good condition
Bradders - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

Jack Loftus - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

Nice
tsl42 - 2nd O/S - Jul/11 with Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with Edvin Mellergard

Hidden - Jul/11

ernieb182 - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with Lewis Gray

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11

Hidden - Solo - 24/Jun/11

first route of the season 30 mins to the top, the tacul slope looked sketchy as fuck for avvys so abbed the line
Ginger McGrath - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/11

goatee - 16/Jun/11 with Kevin Ring

Lots of Ice knocked down by some idiots abseiling at 100mph ! otherwise nice route, stepped out.
Petarghh - AltLd - 12/Jun/11 with Lewis Fraser, cavemanjack

Jack Loftus - AltLd - 12/Jun/11 with Lewis Fraser, Pete Hill

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11

KatieG - 2nd - Jun/11

wi11 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/11 with Dan gibson

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 25/May/11 with will hardy

John Carney - Lead O/S - May/11 with David Linton

Climbed the first 5 pitches of ice.
I_hang_dog - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with dougie swanson-low

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with sarp

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Si - AltLd - 29/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/11

Did first four pitches then abseiled back down. Used snowshoes to get in- 50 minutes to get to base of climb from Midi station, but 2 hours to get back! For winter ascents skis are definitely the way forward.
Audrey @ The Castle - Lead - 25/Feb/11

Abseiled off after leading the first pitch only. A combination of not being acclimatised, late start, skinning for the first time and not being fit. Is that enough excuses for one pitch of snow & ice?
SteveM - AltLd dnf - 14/Feb/11 with Tobs

Fun fun fun! http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=41987&id=142713869117889
Kris - Lead rpt - 12/Feb/11

-25, absolutely baltic. Stayed at requin after and hit below 30.
John Roberts (JR) - AltLd rpt - 19/Jan/11 with Duncan Robinson

ice wasnt great so chickened out at the crux and abbed off. great last climb of the seaon though.
James S - Solo dnf - 20/Oct/10

Due to fresh snow from 2 days ago, we had to break the trail pretty much all the way from Midi station. Started cold with continuous assaults of spin-drift avalanches, but the ice condition in the upper part was superb, and the route felt so easy! Abseiled off after the crux ice pitches. A very quiet day, where we saw hardly any other climber.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/10 with Max C

Ben Briggs - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/10 with Chris

Andy Kuszyk - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Alex Holt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10

After a week of snow, had to cut trail out+back, rather wintery day, couldnt always find the belays so used screws/pro.
Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/10 with Lewis Grey, Ben Clayton

LewisGray - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/10 with Ben Clayton, Matt Bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/10

good ice where it mattered but some very thin ice on the lower angle sections
davefount - AltLd - Aug/10

yellow - AltLd - Aug/10

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with David Fountain

Last pitch not climbed due to some unexpected occurrence
Julli - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/10 with Noora S.

first ice lead!
rob87n - AltLd - 06/Jul/10 with will powderly, Liam Brophy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/10

Great day, 4am start, summited Tacul, down in Cham for a beer by 1330.
SteveHoey - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Davide

Kyuzo - Jul/10 with Richard Scott

mathquirk - Lead - Jul/10 with Petter Zachrisson

liamo333 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/10 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 27/Jun/10 with Dave

texeltup - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/10

Pretty steep ice in places, bolts on the side if you can find them, very popular route when in condition (4 parties including us at the time). Ice quality was very good. We camped on the Vallee Blanche so approach and return was nice and short.
oldgrey - Jun/10 with Virgil Scott

Steps like buckets hacked out all the way. Would be substantially harder on fresh ice.
Hardonicus - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/10 with Tom Woods

Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - Mar/10

Charlie Evans - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/10 with Ben

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/10 with Damien

skinned up to the couloir which was fine......difficult upper mixed section due to bullet hard ice(and old picks)....waist deep powder down Mt Blanc du Tacul ordinary route.........good day
wee hippy - Solo - 11/Jan/10

stuart34 - 2nd - 11/Jan/10 with James Monypenny

basvdploeg - 2010

Dave Searle - 2010

Andy Graham - 2nd O/S - 2010 with Tom Pearson

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 19/Dec/09

Stayed at Abri Simond Hut and had the whole of Valley Blanche to ourselves, so no queuing for the rout. Mark Scales lead and I seconded. Did not complete though as only had one rope so had to do 30m abseils. Awesome day though.
chrislikesstowford - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/09

I led the first pitch, Dave led the second and fourth, Gary led the third and fifth. A serac at the southern edge of the triangle collapsed mid afternoon as we were on the route. The debris hit a rope of three coming down from Mont Blanc du Tacul and ended up just beyond the bergschrund at the start of the route. A broken femur was the worst injury thankfully.
roryifinlay - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/09 with Gary Connor, Dave Chalmers

tjmillen - AltLd - 05/Aug/09 with simon hall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/09

Calder - 2nd - 01/Jul/09 with Le Chef

joese7en - AltLd O/S - Jul/09

How ice climbs should be with bolted belays - great climbing with a great mate!
Timo Austino - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/09 with Ali

Climbed this shortly before a snow bridge collapsed and I fell down a crevasse on our ski descent.
HamishD - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Billy Grant

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/09

only did the first 5 pitches
Tobias at Home - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/09 with featuresforfeet

featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Tobias at Home

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/09

jonnie3430 - AltLd - 03/Jan/09 with Ewan

Led pitch 5, doing which v nearly cost us the last lift down... Great day out though.
milkyjoe - 2nd - 09/Nov/08 with kenton cool, ewan

alexanderred - AltLd rpt - 16/Sep/08 with Gareth Chapman

chadrads - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/08 with kenton cool

sean72 - 2nd - 02/Sep/08 with Kenton Cool, Chadrads

Pete Graham - AltLd - Sep/08 with Tom King

Finished the route, but did not continue to summit as there was the small matter of the tent to be packed, if we were to make last cable car down (as it happens, we made it by the skin of our teeth). With hindsight, that was short sighted and we should have pushed onto the summit, as we were well acclimatised and climbing well. A great day !
neil.loydon - AltLd O/S - Sep/08 with Jamie Foxley

Simu climbed the first 2 pitches, lead all the following ice and mixed pitches. Excellent route, got on it late in the day and found no crowds! Excellent.
Karl Wooffindin - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Robin

Simu-climbed first 2 pitches, then 2 ace steep ice pitches before two mixed pitches and simu to the summit. Awesome route, and well glad we got up early to get first on
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Andy

Got up at 3am which I moaned about but worked out perfectly in the end, very surreal approaching alongside the masses going up tucal normal route. We were first on the route and simil climbed the first two pitches which had crappy not to steap nevi. Just as it started to get light we hit the steeper stuff which was thin to start forcing me to pitch up mixed ground to the right, two sublime pitches of perfect ice followed(Scottish V/IV) . A few more pitches on steep nevie, then simil climbing on easy mixed ground and tucals snow fields and arêtes brought us to the summit.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Neil Mackenzie

2nd outing on ice after the frendo. Simul climbed the first bit, Lead 4 piches. thoroughly recommended
felixthelion - 10/Aug/08 with T. Brookes

tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with ollie b, Gelix

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

Neil D - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Jonny Phillips

markv21 - Lead O/S - Aug/08

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/08 with MRT

HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/08 with Gordie (Leuchars), Tim

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/08

jam_rich - Jul/08

robertporter - Lead - Jul/08

david0811 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Mark Reid

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/08

Hidden - Solo - 09/Jun/08

SWalls - AltLd - Jun/08 with Andy Ruck

Brown - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/08 with Andy Hobbs

Not so hard when there are steps already cut. Climbed as a three with Chris Glasson
lyneux - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Tom Elliott

Messners Yeti - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/08 with George

Messners Yeti - 2nd - 14/Feb/08 with George

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/08 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/08

Tom Gadsden - AltLd O/S - Jan/08

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - Jan/08

nofx - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/07

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/07

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/07 with Tom

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/07 with Tom

SamStrong - AltLd - Aug/07

Dinger - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/07 with Martin Heaton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/07

tcn_2002 - 2nd - 10/Jul/07 with Hamish Legge

hlegge - Lead - 10/Jul/07 with Thomas Codrington

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07

DaveLeonard - 2nd - Jul/07

kevburr - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/07 with Roger Payne

Christian Beck - AltLd - Feb/07

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jan/07

John Roberts (JR) - 2007 with Ben Wolstenholme

Bristoldave - AltLd - 2007 with douglas

Ben Wolstenholme - AltLd - 2007 with John Roberts (JR)

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/06

i hate ice climbing
andy jennings - 2nd dnf - Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06

Great climb! Very crowded though... think carefully about whether you want to "do it French style" and continue climbing when there are parties above you... lots of big rocks and ice falling all around us made me more scared then on many other routes and in hindsight we should have probably bailed or waited until the crowds absailed off.
Brian Birtle - AltLd - 02/Feb/06 with Patagonian Thomas

Brian Birtle - 2nd - 09/Jan/06 with Jon

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006

First on route, huge amounts of spindthrift pouring down the couloir, condition was quite climbed-out, rapped off and lost one of my ice tools (later returned by a party that came up later and found it)
Yyonnx - AltLd - 12/Nov/05 with Eric Frankenmolen

feilx - AltLd - Sep/05 with Dan Barbour

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Sep/05 with Felix Coxwell

gwilym - Lead - Jul/05 with Michael Brownjohn

Easy. Failed attempted Feb 05 due to very hard black ice.
andyinglis - AltLd - Jul/05 with neil adams

Neil Adams - AltLd - Jul/05 with Andy Inglis

Simon K - 2nd - 30/Apr/05 with AB

It's hard to snowboard in Nepal Extremes. More haste = less speed when descending from the 'phrique (next time put crampons on first)
Robbie H - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/05 with Jon Lincoln

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Andy Inglis

feilx - Lead O/S - 2005 with Dan Barbour

Jerry67 - Jul/04

Hidden - 27/Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

Scotsken - Mar/02

brockers - 2002 with CarlZ

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/01

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/01

ian bryant - 2nd - 12/Jun/01 with walter

falling ice on pitch three broke my nose, messy bleeding, left a lot of gear behind. returned to climb this again
stokesrees - Lead - 06/Feb/99 with Gus Melbourne

AB1965 - Lead - 09/Jun/98

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/96

Grezza - Lead - Apr/96 with Paul E

stokesrees - Solo - 1996

Mike - AltLd dnf - 15/Apr/95 with Austin Harley

Mike - AltLd - 15/Apr/95 with Austin Harley

NeilGriffiths - Apr/95 with Paul Tucker

alkira - 22/Jun/94 with kerry atkey

mark-abz - AltLd - 20/Mar/94

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/93

frost - AltLd - Jul/91 with Stone

Hidden - Oct/85

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Voting
Total votes cast 47
hard D+0 of 18
D+0 of 18
easy D+0 of 18
hard D1 of 18
D14 of 18
easy D2 of 18
hard D-1 of 18
D-0 of 18
easy D-0 of 18
3 Stars10 of 29
2 Stars18 of 29
1 Star1 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Soloed8 of 241 (3.3%)
Lead32 of 241 (13.3%)
Followed43 of 241 (17.8%)
Alt Leads133 of 241 (55.2%)
Unknown25 of 241 (10.4%)

'Climbed'99 of 241 (41.1%)
clean O/S123 of 241 (51.0%)
clean rpt9 of 241 (3.7%)
clean RP1 of 241 (0.4%)
dnf9 of 241 (3.7%)