Awesome climb, been wanting to do it for years and it didn't disappoint! Would of been quicker but had 3 teams ahead of us, I thought we were quick out of the gate but I was wrong!joe.91 - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Thomas Reid
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13
The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Clare Corran, John Sealey
jon22 - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with manxclare, The Bad Cough
manxclare - 2nd - 14/Sep/13 with paul cubbins, jon22
Pretty good introduction to proper ice climbing.
wilkinscl - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/13 with Edward shelly
First ice route and what a route it was!
morpcat - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/13 with wilkinscl
fattmarr - 11/Sep/13 with Dave, Will
j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/13
Really nice to be alone on a route not involved with climbing with a partner. How anti social is that. Lovely route, perfect ice if stepped out a you'd expect.
geoff.comley - Solo rpt - 02/Sep/13 with Vic Paterson
Awesome route. Met some really cool Belgians, and some lads on their first alpine climb on the way down. Bit chilly with approx 40kph winds.
dutybooty - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Lee
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/13
Led 1st four pitches, nice ice.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13
aerobiee - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/13
Slightly late up but still managed to make it down. First steep ice climb, nice route. Easy to protect with ice screws and cams.
Tim Bevan - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13 with Dave Thexton
euanryan - 11/Aug/13 with Willis
leeoftroy - AltLd O/S - Aug/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/13
jamestaylor92 - AltLd O/S - Aug/13 with Ben Rigby
Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/13
Bruce S - 2nd dnf - 30/Jul/13 with Joshua Willett
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/13
With guide, from 6.30 cable car. Surprising amount of ice for a warm July morning. If continuing to Tacul summit, beware of seracs over the descent route
Jezzer - 2nd - 23/Jul/13
Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/13
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13
joermann - AltLd - 11/Jul/13
Peter Holder - 11/Jul/13 with Josh Legg, lewis fraser
Hidden - Solo - 10/Jul/13
A surprisingly good route! Lead all pitches. Would be sustained if it wasn't stepped out!
Stuart Johnston - Lead - 07/Jul/13 with Sadie Renwick
keithlambley - 02/Jul/13 with Kate R
With Kev. Lots of ice pouring on us! Good route. Abseiled after crux pitch.
Mike Nolan - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13
Stepped out and in excellent condition. Led P4 (first of the steeper pitches). Abbed after P5.
Mr Fuller - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Paul Gibbison, Joe Barker
Hidden - 2nd - Jul/13
Hidden - 2nd - Jul/13
Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/13
Gumery - 27/Jun/13 with Naomi, Forshaw
zcsharp - 2nd - 26/Jun/13 with Dave, Mark
Mike Hood - AltLd - 21/Jun/13 with jordan
davebrox - AltLd β - 17/Jun/13 with Dan
paulmck - AltLd - 04/Jun/13
Hidden - Jun/13
leowestland - Jun/13
Hidden - Solo rpt - 27/May/13
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/May/13
walts4 - 2013
jcw - 2013
James Thacker - 2013
Tony Kartawick - AltLd rpt - 2013 with James Thomas
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/12
bandersnatch - AltLd - Oct/12
BorisVBlade - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/12 with Guillaume Billardon
machars - AltLd - 21/Sep/12 with Neil
Led P2 & 4
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/12 with Mike Wild
Hidden - Lead - Sep/12
Ashley Hold - 2nd - Sep/12 with Torquil Bennett
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12
samsimpson - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Emily Ward
Hidden - AltLd dnf - Aug/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/12
jameslam - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/12 with Charlie Thorneycroft
Jay C - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12 with James M
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/12
Busy to start with, but two teams abseiled after the first pitch, leaving only us and one other to enjoy climbing all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Highly recommended!
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 08/Jul/12 with Scott Kirkhope
Jack.H.92 - 07/Jul/12
luke321 - Jul/12 with Jack Hodgson, Tom Jagger
Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jul/12
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 27/Jun/12
Lots of ice fall for the whole climb, bailed on the last pitch when it got too bad
AdamH - 27/Jun/12
Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/12
DrJon - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/12 with Andy O
Hidden - AltLd RP - 17/May/12
guy757 - 09/Apr/12
Started the climb at 5.45pm. Simul climbed first two pitches. Then pitched the next 3. Very easy climbing in a stunning setting, with no one to be seen or heard. Finished last pitch as sun was setting. Crossed the valley Blanche in knee to waist deep snow and arrived at our tent at 10pm
Rick Ashton - Lead - 08/Apr/12 with Bruno Schull
Very chopped and easy, but a nice day out in the sun, and we where the only ones on it! Sadly our only climb on this trip.
alpinestar_no1 - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Sune Buur
Sublime abseil descent at sunset to the sound of churchbells from the Chamonix valley.
Ly-Cilph - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Piet W
chalk monster - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with richard
Went to do 1 of the gullies to the right but they both looked a bit thin so we did this again.
HarryB - AltLd rpt - 29/Mar/12 with Luca
Our route for today wasn't in so we came back and lead the alternate pitches. Odd pitches this time, and much more fun once acclimatised.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Harry
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Luca
Twice in three days. Lead even pitches first time.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Harry
rosieposey14 - 2012
Hidden - Solo rpt - 30/Oct/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/11
highclimber - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/11
danJBA - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/11 with Nick Valentine
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/11
roberto18 - AltLd - 31/Aug/11 with Tom Nickols
Hidden - 30/Aug/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11
Good conditions although main pitches stepped out. Ab'ed off from the top of the couloir. Needed about 10 abs due to only having a single rope.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Mike Lelliot
Great route. Bergschrund easy to cross and route was quite stepped out in the steep sections. Steepest route I've climbed in the Alps so far.
MikeLell - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Lee Harrison
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11
1hr 40 to top of difficulties...
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Steve Seale
gowla - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with adam booth
3 stars, only ones on it after a really cold start and 0 vis. Ice in good condition, slightly brittle. Full on winter conditions at the start, snowing + cold wind. Nice view of Aiguille Du Midi at the top though!
geoff.comley - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/11 with Dan Carrol
Lead moving together first three pitches. Dom lead pitches 4 and 5. Very stepped out this late in the season.
The Mountain Goat - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Dom Sellers
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Jon Miles
np134 - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with C. Price
Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - Aug/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11
Easier than expected. Lots of traffic so very stepped out. Had the route to ourselves in the afternoon.
Caspar - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Clay Conlon
Started the route in the early afternoon, and so had it to ourselves. Very stepped out at the moment.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Caspian
Camdenelectric - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11
Jack Doyle - 2nd - 25/Jul/11 with Padraig, Derek
Perfect morning route to round off 8 weeks in Cham
Petarghh - Lead - 16/Jul/11
twright180 - 16/Jul/11 with John McCune
Hidden - Solo - 16/Jul/11
knicos - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11
Jack Doyle - 2nd - 11/Jul/11 with Derek
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/11
Finished via mixed ground at the top and walked off. Easier than expected due to traffic.
RKernan - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Conor Gilmour
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11
Jack Loftus - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with Nick
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11
tsl42 - 2nd O/S - Jul/11 with Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis
d_meacher - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with Edvin Mellergard
Hidden - Jul/11
ernieb182 - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with Lewis Gray
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11
Hidden - Solo - 24/Jun/11
first route of the season 30 mins to the top, the tacul slope looked sketchy as fuck for avvys so abbed the line
Ginger McGrath - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/11
goatee - 16/Jun/11 with Kevin Ring
Lots of Ice knocked down by some idiots abseiling at 100mph !
otherwise nice route, stepped out.
Petarghh - AltLd - 12/Jun/11 with Lewis Fraser, cavemanjack
Jack Loftus - AltLd - 12/Jun/11 with Lewis Fraser, Pete Hill
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11
KatieG - 2nd - Jun/11
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/11 with Dan gibson
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 25/May/11 with will hardy
John Carney - Lead O/S - May/11 with David Linton
Climbed the first 5 pitches of ice.
I_hang_dog - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with dougie swanson-low
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with sarp
Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/11
mcaterina - 2nd - Apr/11
Si - AltLd - 29/Mar/11
Hidden - AltLd - Mar/11
Did first four pitches then abseiled back down. Used snowshoes to get in- 50 minutes to get to base of climb from Midi station, but 2 hours to get back! For winter ascents skis are definitely the way forward.
Audrey @ The Castle - Lead - 25/Feb/11
Abseiled off after leading the first pitch only. A combination of not being acclimatised, late start, skinning for the first time and not being fit. Is that enough excuses for one pitch of snow & ice?
SteveM - AltLd dnf - 14/Feb/11 with Tobs
Fun fun fun! http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=41987&id=142713869117889
Kris - Lead rpt - 12/Feb/11
-25, absolutely baltic. Stayed at requin after and hit below 30.
John Roberts (JR) - AltLd rpt - 19/Jan/11 with Duncan Robinson
ice wasnt great so chickened out at the crux and abbed off. great last climb of the seaon though.
James S - Solo dnf - 20/Oct/10
Due to fresh snow from 2 days ago, we had to break the trail pretty much all the way from Midi station. Started cold with continuous assaults of spin-drift avalanches, but the ice condition in the upper part was superb, and the route felt so easy! Abseiled off after the crux ice pitches. A very quiet day, where we saw hardly any other climber.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/10 with Max C
Ben Briggs - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/10 with Chris
Andy Kuszyk - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Alex Holt
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10
After a week of snow, had to cut trail out+back, rather wintery day, couldnt always find the belays so used screws/pro.
Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/10 with Lewis Grey, Ben Clayton
LewisGray - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/10 with Ben Clayton, Matt Bennett
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10
carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/10
good ice where it mattered but some very thin ice on the lower angle sections
davefount - AltLd - Aug/10
yellow - AltLd - Aug/10
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with David Fountain
Last pitch not climbed due to some unexpected occurrence
Julli - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/10 with Noora S.
first ice lead!
rob87n - AltLd - 06/Jul/10 with will powderly, Liam Brophy
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/10
Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/10
Great day, 4am start, summited Tacul, down in Cham for a beer by 1330.
steve_hoey - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Davide
Kyuzo - Jul/10 with Richard Scott
mathquirk - Lead - Jul/10 with Petter Zachrisson
liamo333 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10
Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/10 with CarolineH
CarolineH - 27/Jun/10 with Dave
texeltup - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/10
Pretty steep ice in places, bolts on the side if you can find them, very popular route when in condition (4 parties including us at the time). Ice quality was very good. We camped on the Vallee Blanche so approach and return was nice and short.
oldgrey - Jun/10 with Virgil Scott
Steps like buckets hacked out all the way. Would be substantially harder on fresh ice.
Hardonicus - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/10 with Tom Woods
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - Mar/10
Charlie Evans - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/10 with Ben
Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/10 with Damien
skinned up to the couloir which was fine......difficult upper mixed section due to bullet hard ice(and old picks)....waist deep powder down Mt Blanc du Tacul ordinary route.........good day
wee hippy - Solo - 11/Jan/10
stuart34 - 2nd - 11/Jan/10 with James Monypenny
basvdploeg - 2010
Dave Searle - 2010
Andy Graham - 2nd O/S - 2010 with Tom Pearson
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 19/Dec/09
Stayed at Abri Simond Hut and had the whole of Valley Blanche to ourselves, so no queuing for the rout. Mark Scales lead and I seconded. Did not complete though as only had one rope so had to do 30m abseils.
Awesome day though.
chrislikesstowford - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/09
I led the first pitch, Dave led the second and fourth, Gary led the third and fifth. A serac at the southern edge of the triangle collapsed mid afternoon as we were on the route. The debris hit a rope of three coming down from Mont Blanc du Tacul and ended up just beyond the bergschrund at the start of the route. A broken femur was the worst injury thankfully.
roryifinlay - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/09 with Gary Connor, Dave Chalmers
tjmillen - AltLd - 05/Aug/09 with simon hall
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/09
Calder - 2nd - 01/Jul/09 with Le Chef
joese7en - AltLd O/S - Jul/09
How ice climbs should be with bolted belays - great climbing with a great mate!
Timo Austino - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/09 with Ali
Climbed this shortly before a snow bridge collapsed and I fell down a crevasse on our ski descent.
HamishD - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Billy Grant
Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/09
only did the first 5 pitches
Tobias at Home - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/09 with featuresforfeet
featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Tobias at Home
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/09
jonnie3430 - AltLd - 03/Jan/09 with Ewan
Led pitch 5, doing which v nearly cost us the last lift down... Great day out though.
milkyjoe - 2nd - 09/Nov/08 with kenton cool, ewan
alexanderred - AltLd rpt - 16/Sep/08 with Gareth Chapman
chadrads - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/08 with kenton cool
sean72 - 2nd - 02/Sep/08 with Kenton Cool, Chadrads
Pete Graham - AltLd - Sep/08 with Tom King
Finished the route, but did not continue to summit as there was the small matter of the tent to be packed, if we were to make last cable car down (as it happens, we made it by the skin of our teeth). With hindsight, that was short sighted and we should have pushed onto the summit, as we were well acclimatised and climbing well. A great day !
neil.loydon - AltLd O/S - Sep/08 with Jamie Foxley
Simu climbed the first 2 pitches, lead all the following ice and mixed pitches. Excellent route, got on it late in the day and found no crowds! Excellent.
Karl Wooffindin - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Robin
Simu-climbed first 2 pitches, then 2 ace steep ice pitches before two mixed pitches and simu to the summit. Awesome route, and well glad we got up early to get first on
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Andy
Got up at 3am which I moaned about but worked out perfectly in the end, very surreal approaching alongside the masses going up tucal normal route. We were first on the route and simil climbed the first two pitches which had crappy not to steap nevi. Just as it started to get light we hit the steeper stuff which was thin to start forcing me to pitch up mixed ground to the right, two sublime pitches of perfect ice followed(Scottish V/IV) . A few more pitches on steep nevie, then simil climbing on easy mixed ground and tucals snow fields and arÍtes brought us to the summit.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Neil Mackenzie
2nd outing on ice after the frendo. Simul climbed the first bit, Lead 4 piches. thoroughly recommended
felixthelion - 10/Aug/08 with T. Brookes
tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with ollie b, Gelix
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08
Neil D - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Jonny Phillips
markv21 - Lead O/S - Aug/08
gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/08 with MRT
HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/08 with Gordie (Leuchars), Tim
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Jul/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/08
jam_rich - Jul/08
robertporter - Lead - Jul/08
david0811 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Mark Reid
Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/08
Hidden - Solo - 09/Jun/08
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/08
Brown - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/08 with Andy Hobbs
Not so hard when there are steps already cut. Climbed as a three with Chris Glasson
lyneux - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Tom Elliott
Messners Yeti - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/08 with George
Messners Yeti - 2nd - 14/Feb/08 with George
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/08 with Pete
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/08
Tom Gadsden - AltLd O/S - Jan/08
mike.moss - AltLd O/S - Jan/08
nofx - 2008
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/07
Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/07
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/07 with Tom
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/07 with Tom
SamStrong - AltLd - Aug/07
Dinger - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/07 with Martin Heaton
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/07
tcn_2002 - 2nd - 10/Jul/07 with Hamish Legge
hlegge - Lead - 10/Jul/07 with Thomas Codrington
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07
DaveLeonard - 2nd - Jul/07
kevburr - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/07 with Roger Payne
Hidden - 18/Apr/07
Christian Beck - AltLd - Feb/07
Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jan/07
John Roberts (JR) - 2007 with Ben Wolstenholme
Bristoldave - AltLd - 2007 with douglas
Ben Wolstenholme - AltLd - 2007 with John Roberts (JR)
Hidden - 2nd - Sep/06
Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/06
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/06
i hate ice climbing
andy jennings - 2nd dnf - Jul/06
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/06
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06
Great climb! Very crowded though... think carefully about whether you want to "do it French style" and continue climbing when there are parties above you... lots of big rocks and ice falling all around us made me more scared then on many other routes and in hindsight we should have probably bailed or waited until the crowds absailed off.
Brian Birtle - AltLd - 02/Feb/06 with Patagonian Thomas
Brian Birtle - 2nd - 09/Jan/06 with Jon
zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006
First on route, huge amounts of spindthrift pouring down the couloir, condition was quite climbed-out, rapped off and lost one of my ice tools (later returned by a party that came up later and found it)
Yyonnx - AltLd - 12/Nov/05 with Eric Frankenmolen
feilx - AltLd - Sep/05 with Dan Barbour
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05
dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Sep/05 with Felix Coxwell
gwilym - Lead - Jul/05 with Michael Brownjohn
Easy. Failed attempted Feb 05 due to very hard black ice.
andyinglis - AltLd - Jul/05 with neil adams
Neil Adams - AltLd - Jul/05 with Andy Inglis
Simon K - 2nd - 30/Apr/05 with AB
It's hard to snowboard in Nepal Extremes. More haste = less speed when descending from the 'phrique (next time put crampons on first)
Robbie H - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/05 with Jon Lincoln
edek_w - Mar/05
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Andy Inglis
feilx - Lead O/S - 2005 with Dan Barbour
Jerry67 - Jul/04
Hidden - 27/Jun/03
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/03
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/03
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/03
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003
Scotsken - Mar/02
brockers - 2002 with CarlZ
Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/01
Hidden - 2nd - Sep/01
ian bryant - 2nd - 12/Jun/01 with walter
falling ice on pitch three broke my nose, messy bleeding, left a lot of gear behind. returned to climb this again
stokesrees - Lead - 06/Feb/99 with Gus Melbourne
AB1965 - Lead - 09/Jun/98
First (and only!) winter alpine route. Ignoring the bad forecast we headed up and had the route to ourselves - fantastic! As we later camped below the Cosmiques arete the storm hit and our tents got gradually burried in snow! The epic retreat in zero visability back to the cable car was formative!
andy_pemberton - AltLd - Feb/97 with Jon Scorer
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/96
Grezza - Lead - Apr/96 with Paul E
stokesrees - Solo - 1996
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Apr/95
Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/95
NeilGriffiths - Apr/95 with Paul Tucker
alkira - 22/Jun/94 with kerry atkey
mark-abz - AltLd - 20/Mar/94
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/93
CMacD - 1993
frost - AltLd - Jul/91 with Stone
Hidden - Oct/85