Chèré Couloir*** D
[Climbing the Chere Couloir, 2 kb]350m. Couloir ice climb. Approach from Midi Station or Abri Simond Bivouac Hut in less than one hour. Cross bergshrund and then climb about 11 pitches to the top. Can descend from the normal route leading up Mt. Blanc du Tacul or if not too busy in the couloir, rappel the route to it's start (Most people abseil off after 5 pitches - fixed belays).
R. Chere and J. Tranchant 18/Aug/1973

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Photo: Climbing the Chere Couloir © Nick Harvey
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This climb is in 416 logbooks, and on 94 wishlists.

aerobiee - Lead rpt - 27/Sep/15 with Jen Stretton

Jenn_Stretton - 2nd - 27/Sep/15 with David Thexton

machars - AltLd - 20/Sep/15 with Charley

First proper ice lead. Was very busy, and was hit by a lot of falling ice, one even cracked my helmet! Great route with great ice.
adamre12 - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/15 with James Ayres

gallonj - 24/Aug/15

First ice route, things went wrong on first pitch got scared and my mate led the rest aha!
AshBash - 05/Jul/15

Great but very busy.
Chrismoore94 - AltLd - 28/Jun/15 with Rory Tunnah

tunnah - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/15

Blue sky day and great fun. Crusty sugary snow on route.
davkeo - AltLd rpt - 13/Jun/15 with Ken Doyle, Niall Hedderman

Excellent first alpine route in a quality setting, 2x 60m ropes very useful for quick descent
scarmichael - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/15 with marc langley

Hidden - 10/Jun/15

Lead all the steep pitches. Ice was in good nick. Cloudy and cool day meant it felt pretty Scottish apart from a lack of wind! Great climbing.
Hugh Simons - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/15 with Alistair Lee

Felt pretty shagged from a few days on the go, but led the upper steep pitch - had to take it slow and steady, lots of careful resting. Great fun route though, so much ice, so little commitment!
Euan Todd - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/15 with Adam

sj87 - 2nd - 09/Jun/15

Alpine week with guide Andy Owen and Sue Jeffrey
steveforgrieve - 2nd - 09/Jun/15

Abbed off after the crux, my hands were gone, knackered.
cmars89 - AltLd dnf - 15/Apr/15 with Ryan Weber

Ridiculously easy and stepped out. Have seen WI4 banded about as a grade, more like WI2+.
smithaldo - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/15 with Clegg

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 10/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/Feb/15

Hidden - Lead - 10/Oct/14

great conditions compared to last time!
ndraper1 - 05/Oct/14

robgixer - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 17/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/14

Hidden - 14/Sep/14

surf1nal-kern0w - 12/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Sep/14

joe_lancs - AltLd - 12/Sep/14

katie led 1 and 2 and i linked 3 and 4. super scary!
Matt Schwarz - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/14 with katie

Katie S - AltLd - 11/Sep/14 with Matt Schwarz

First on route after staying at the Cosmiques, superb conditions, abbed after ice pitches, cracking route!
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/14 with Richard Hines

Rickrick - 08/Sep/14

good protection, good ice, very trodden.
hoppojoe7 - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/14 with stuart honick

newtonmore - 07/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Sep/14

Utterly fantastic condition. First on the route and didn't see another party all day. Ascended to the summit and back down the standard route.
planetmarshall - Lead - 06/Sep/14 with Christopher Douglas

Hidden - 05/Sep/14

Led all pitches. Never hard and very enjoyable. Bivied in peroux hut and first on route at 5.30am.
davkeo - Lead O/S - Sep/14

davkeo - Solo rpt - Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/14

first alpine solo, and what a route! amazing quality ice all the way and good mixed climbing to the top of the triangle
Webster - Solo - Sep/14

First team on the route having bivvied at the Col du Midi. Pretty stepped out so steady going. Gorgeous plastic ice all the way up, rapped off after the difficulties (4 pitches). Led P1,3
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - Sep/14 with Matt Harle, James Thompson

Couldn't resist doing it again as Ed hadn't before. Took alt route to right at top. Nice mixed section. With Ed.
leeoftroy - AltLd O/S - Sep/14

Hidden - Sep/14

Superb, as good as ice gets. Little to no hooking and bomber screws! Stayed in bivi hut by cosmiques and were second on route, rapping was tricky due to traffic. 2 hours berg to abseils. Lead all pitches.
CallumSmith - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/14

stepped out, rapped after the good pitches, very busy
Tom Campbell - 26/Aug/14

First high-altitude vertical ice climb. Crux headwall. Very busy. Awesome!
Goodstuff - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14 with Dave Sawyer

Timothy Miller - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/14

David Staples - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Glorious

McPhail92 - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/14

Guss1 - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/14

Adamski1986 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/14 with Richard Gage

Long day. Completed route and walked down from the Tacul, didn't go to the summit. Caught 2nd lift in the morning, back to the lift by 6:45pm. Lift then delayed 1 hour by thunderstorm cuitting the electric, spent an hour sat in the Plan station regailing tourists with tales of sleeping on the toilet floor...
MartF - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Stu Spencer

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/14

Paul Collins - AltLd O/S - Aug/14 with Neil Byrne

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/14

Crux pitch has very rotten ice, much more exciting..
DigitalSteak - AltLd rpt - 23/Jul/14

BoulderyDave - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/14 with BlizzardLizard

Hidden - 16/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/Jul/14

can see why it is so popular. Great ice though top pitch rather stepped out. Abd off at end of ice pitches.
Craig Holden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Alex Toomey

alex toomey - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14 with craig holden

First on route, great ice, even if it was covered in powder from the days before. Absolutely fantastic day. Abbed off after the last ice step.
MSchobitz - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14 with jake

Lead until first 80+ deg section. Micki lead two steepest pitches. Ace conditions and first on the route, wouldn't recommend doing if you weren't in the first 2 or 3 parties but amazing if you are. Lots of ice was getting kicked down whilst we abbed.
JakeWShaw - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Micky

kelly_426 - AltLd - Jul/14 with Luke Dudill

stanleynkk - Lead - Jul/14 with Micheal Haywood, Danny Barden

Nemmie - Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14

Ross L - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Matt Helliker

Gibbo - AltLd - 26/Jun/14 with Sash Coombes

johnrich - 2nd - 16/Jun/14

Really good ice climbing. Was a bit easy as the ice was very featured with big bucket steps for the feet. Plenty of fixed and normal rock pro available and fixed belays. A couple of ice screws is ample.
johnmctighe - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Andy Owen

Great route, one other party on it. Yes it is stepped out but great climbing nonetheless.
DigitalSteak - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14

Good ice route with steep sections, but very stepped out! probably the most climbed ice route from the midi
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/14 with Edvin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/14

Hidden - Jun/14

Great days climbing in lovely weather! Not too many other groups on the route. I lead the first 2 pitches and then Seb, our guide, lead the next 3. Abseiled back down after 5 pitches to make the last lift down from the Midi.
Rob Royle - 2nd - 31/May/14 with Mountain Guide, Steph

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/14

fulton333 - Lead - Apr/14 with Johnny, Charlie Edwards

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Feb/14

chapmand - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/14 with Rory Brown

waiting for snow - AltLd - Feb/14

Bullet ice on approach slopes. Good neve on crux pitches. Un-forecasted high winds quickly developed between 3rd-4th pitch and lead to a battle with furious spin drift. Abbed off after 4th pitch. Extremely cold (-18 + wind). Long descent back to Chamonix.
ndraper1 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/14

Slight cornea damage from windblown ice crystals, but a fun climb.
Pete Houghton - AltLd - 29/Jan/14 with ndraper

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Awesome climb, been wanting to do it for years and it didn't disappoint! Would of been quicker but had 3 teams ahead of us, I thought we were quick out of the gate but I was wrong!
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Thomas Reid

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Clare Corran, John Sealey

jon22 - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with manxclare, The Bad Cough

manxclare - 2nd - 14/Sep/13 with paul cubbins, jon22

Pretty good introduction to proper ice climbing.
wilkinscl - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/13 with Edward shelly

First ice route and what a route it was!
morpcat - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/13 with wilkinscl

mattfarr - 2nd - 11/Sep/13 with Dave BMG, Will

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/13

Really nice to be alone on a route not involved with climbing with a partner. How anti social is that. Lovely route, perfect ice if stepped out a you'd expect.
geoff.comley - Solo rpt - 02/Sep/13 with Vic Paterson

Hidden - Sep/13

Awesome route. Met some really cool Belgians, and some lads on their first alpine climb on the way down. Bit chilly with approx 40kph winds.
dutybooty - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Lee

Dan0Me - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Chris Hill

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/13

John got all of the good pitches due to us not counting the approach slopes as a pitch whilst I got the final poor snow slope. Secretly quite glad about this as I was feeling pretty tired out from the previous days. Abseiled off to avoid the crevassed descent from the Tacul!
MPSBunny - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/13 with Robby Pineda, John Brannock

Led 1st four pitches, nice ice.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13

aerobiee - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/13

Slightly late up but still managed to make it down. First steep ice climb, nice route. Easy to protect with ice screws and cams.
Tim Bevan - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13 with Dave Thexton

euanryan - 11/Aug/13 with Willis

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/13

jamestaylor92 - AltLd O/S - Aug/13 with Ben Rigby

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/13

leeoftroy - AltLd O/S - Aug/13

I did lead a couple of pitches (p6, p8) but the majority was Matthew reynolds, inc the crux pitches, I seconded more than I lead
friendzone1234 - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/13 with matthew reynolds

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/13

Bruce S - 2nd dnf - 30/Jul/13 with Joshua Willett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/13

With guide, from 6.30 cable car. Surprising amount of ice for a warm July morning. If continuing to Tacul summit, beware of seracs over the descent route
Jezzer - 2nd - 23/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13

joermann - AltLd - 11/Jul/13

Moved together
Peter Holder - 11/Jul/13 with Josh Legg, lewis fraser

Hidden - Solo - 10/Jul/13

A surprisingly good route! Lead all pitches. Would be sustained if it wasn't stepped out!
Stuart Johnston - Lead - 07/Jul/13 with Sadie Renwick

keithlambley - 02/Jul/13 with Kate R

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13

Stepped out and in excellent condition. Led P4 (first of the steeper pitches). Abbed after P5.
Mr Fuller - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Paul Gibbison, Joe Barker

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/13

Claire Molloy - 2nd O/S - Jul/13 with Mark Thomas

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/13

Gumery - 27/Jun/13 with Naomi, Forshaw

zcsharp - 2nd - 26/Jun/13 with Dave, Mark

masmith - 2nd - 26/Jun/13 with Dave Stocks, Jamie Roberts

Mike Hood - AltLd - 21/Jun/13 with jordan

davebrox - AltLd β - 17/Jun/13 with Dan

paulmck - AltLd - 04/Jun/13

Hidden - Jun/13

leowestland - Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/13

Hidden - Solo rpt - 27/May/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/May/13
joelevanschamonix - AltLd β - 15/May/13 with Ally Hurst

walts4 - 2013

jcw - 2013

James Thacker - 2013

Tony Kartawick - AltLd rpt - 2013 with James Thomas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/12

D.Russell - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/12 with Adam

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/12

Carried on to the summit of MB du Tacul
Suzana - AltLd O/S - Oct/12 with Lothar Marte

BorisVBlade - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/12 with Guillaume Billardon

machars - AltLd - 21/Sep/12 with Neil

Led P2 & 4
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/12 with Mike Wild

Hidden - Lead - Sep/12

Ashley Hold - 2nd - Sep/12 with Torquil Bennett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12

Sam Simpson - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Emily Ward

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/12

jameslam - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/12 with Charlie Thorneycroft

With Mark Cordingley. Abseiled after fifth pitch.
ray.allwood - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/12 with Andy Perkins (Guide)

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12 with James M

Stepped out
jimmatthews - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12 with Jay Conlon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/12

Busy to start with, but two teams abseiled after the first pitch, leaving only us and one other to enjoy climbing all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Highly recommended!
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 08/Jul/12 with Scott Kirkhope

Jack.H.92 - 07/Jul/12

luke321 - Jul/12 with Jack Hodgson, Tom Jagger

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 27/Jun/12

Lots of ice fall for the whole climb, bailed on the last pitch when it got too bad
AdamH - 27/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/12

DrJon - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/12 with Andy O

Hidden - AltLd RP - 17/May/12

guy757 - 09/Apr/12

Started the climb at 5.45pm. Simul climbed first two pitches. Then pitched the next 3. Very easy climbing in a stunning setting, with no one to be seen or heard. Finished last pitch as sun was setting. Crossed the valley Blanche in knee to waist deep snow and arrived at our tent at 10pm
Rick Ashton - Lead - 08/Apr/12 with Bruno Schull

Very chopped and easy, but a nice day out in the sun, and we where the only ones on it! Sadly our only climb on this trip.
alpinestar_no1 - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Sune Buur

Sublime abseil descent at sunset to the sound of churchbells from the Chamonix valley.
Ly-Cilph - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Piet W

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Apr/12

Went to do 1 of the gullies to the right but they both looked a bit thin so we did this again.
HarryB - AltLd rpt - 29/Mar/12 with Luca

Our route for today wasn't in so we came back and lead the alternate pitches. Odd pitches this time, and much more fun once acclimatised.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Harry

HarryB - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Luca

Twice in three days. Lead even pitches first time.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Harry

rosieposey14 - 2012

Hidden - Solo rpt - 30/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/11

highclimber - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/11

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/11 with Nick Valentine

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/11

roberto18 - AltLd - 31/Aug/11 with Tom Nickols

Hidden - 30/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

Good conditions although main pitches stepped out. Ab'ed off from the top of the couloir. Needed about 10 abs due to only having a single rope.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Mike Lelliot

Great route. Bergschrund easy to cross and route was quite stepped out in the steep sections. Steepest route I've climbed in the Alps so far.
MikeLell - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Lee Harrison

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11

1hr 40 to top of difficulties... Awesome climb!
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Steve Seale

gowla - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with adam booth

3 stars, only ones on it after a really cold start and 0 vis. Ice in good condition, slightly brittle. Full on winter conditions at the start, snowing + cold wind. Nice view of Aiguille Du Midi at the top though!
geoff.comley - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/11 with Dan Carrol

Lead moving together first three pitches. Dom lead pitches 4 and 5. Very stepped out this late in the season.
The Mountain Goat - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Dom Sellers

Tracked out.
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Jon Miles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11

np134 - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with C. Price

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - Aug/11

benclimbing - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Dave Latimer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Started the route in the early afternoon, and so had it to ourselves. Very stepped out at the moment.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Caspian

Camdenelectric - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Jack Doyle - 2nd - 25/Jul/11 with Padraig, Derek

Perfect morning route to round off 8 weeks in Cham
Petarghh - Lead - 16/Jul/11

twright180 - 16/Jul/11 with John McCune

Hidden - Solo - 16/Jul/11

knicos - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11

Jack Doyle - 2nd - 11/Jul/11 with Derek

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/11

Finished via mixed ground at the top and walked off. Easier than expected due to traffic.
RKernan - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Conor Gilmour

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

Jack Loftus - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

tsl42 - 2nd O/S - Jul/11 with Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with Edvin Mellergard

Hidden - Jul/11

ernieb182 - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with Lewis Gray

tskelhon - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with chris davis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11

Hidden - Solo - 24/Jun/11

first route of the season 30 mins to the top, the tacul slope looked sketchy as fuck for avvys so abbed the line
Ginger McGrath - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/11

goatee - 16/Jun/11 with Kevin Ring

Lots of Ice knocked down by some idiots abseiling at 100mph ! otherwise nice route, stepped out.
Petarghh - AltLd - 12/Jun/11 with Lewis Fraser, cavemanjack

Jack Loftus - AltLd - 12/Jun/11 with Lewis Fraser, Pete Hill

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11

KatieG - 2nd - Jun/11

QuentinSu - Jun/11

jacksonak47 - 2nd - Jun/11

wi11 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/11 with Dan gibson

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 25/May/11 with will hardy

John Carney - Lead O/S - May/11 with David Linton

Climbed the first 5 pitches of ice.
sarpedon - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with dougie swanson-low

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with sarp

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/11

mcaterina - 2nd - Apr/11

With Neil Brodie
AdamCB - 2nd - Apr/11

Si - AltLd - 29/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/11

Did first four pitches then abseiled back down. Used snowshoes to get in- 50 minutes to get to base of climb from Midi station, but 2 hours to get back! For winter ascents skis are definitely the way forward.
Audrey @ The Castle - Lead - 25/Feb/11

Abseiled off after leading the first pitch only. A combination of not being acclimatised, late start, skinning for the first time and not being fit. Is that enough excuses for one pitch of snow & ice?
SteveM - AltLd dnf - 14/Feb/11 with Tobs

Fun fun fun!
Kris - Lead rpt - 12/Feb/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

ice wasnt great so chickened out at the crux and abbed off. great last climb of the seaon though.
James S - Solo dnf - 20/Oct/10

Due to fresh snow from 2 days ago, we had to break the trail pretty much all the way from Midi station. Started cold with continuous assaults of spin-drift avalanches, but the ice condition in the upper part was superb, and the route felt so easy! Abseiled off after the crux ice pitches. A very quiet day, where we saw hardly any other climber.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/10 with Max C

Ben Briggs - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/10 with Chris

Andy Kuszyk - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Alex Holt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10

After a week of snow, had to cut trail out+back, rather wintery day, couldnt always find the belays so used screws/pro.
Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/10 with Lewis Grey, Ben Clayton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/10

good ice where it mattered but some very thin ice on the lower angle sections
davefount - AltLd - Aug/10

yellow - AltLd - Aug/10

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with David Fountain

Last pitch not climbed due to some unexpected occurrence
Julli - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/10 with Noora S.

first ice lead!
rob87n - AltLd - 06/Jul/10 with will powderly, Liam Brophy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/10

Great day, 4am start, summited Tacul, down in Cham for a beer by 1330.
steve_hoey - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Davide

Kyuzo - Jul/10 with Richard Scott

mathquirk - Lead - Jul/10 with Petter Zachrisson

liamo333 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/10 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 27/Jun/10 with Dave

mark_chal - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/10

Pretty steep ice in places, bolts on the side if you can find them, very popular route when in condition (4 parties including us at the time). Ice quality was very good. We camped on the Vallee Blanche so approach and return was nice and short.
oldgrey - Jun/10 with Virgil Scott

Steps like buckets hacked out all the way. Would be substantially harder on fresh ice.
Hardonicus - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/10 with Tom Woods

Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - Mar/10

Charlie Evans - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/10 with Ben

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/10 with Damien

skinned up to the couloir which was fine......difficult upper mixed section due to bullet hard ice(and old picks)....waist deep powder down Mt Blanc du Tacul ordinary route.........good day
wee hippy - Solo - 11/Jan/10

stuart34 - 2nd - 11/Jan/10 with James Monypenny

basvdploeg - 2010

Dave Searle - 2010

Andy Graham - 2nd O/S - 2010 with Tom Pearson

Stayed at Abri Simond Hut and had the whole of Valley Blanche to ourselves, so no queuing for the rout. Mark Scales lead and I seconded. Did not complete though as only had one rope so had to do 30m abseils. Awesome day though.
chrislikesstowford - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/09

I led the first pitch, Dave led the second and fourth, Gary led the third and fifth. A serac at the southern edge of the triangle collapsed mid afternoon as we were on the route. The debris hit a rope of three coming down from Mont Blanc du Tacul and ended up just beyond the bergschrund at the start of the route. A broken femur was the worst injury thankfully.
roryifinlay - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/09 with Gary Connor, Dave Chalmers

tjmillen - AltLd - 05/Aug/09 with simon hall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/09

Calder - 2nd - 01/Jul/09 with Le Chef

joese7en - AltLd O/S - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/09

How ice climbs should be with bolted belays - great climbing with a great mate!
Timo Austino - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/09 with Ali

Climbed this shortly before a snow bridge collapsed and I fell down a crevasse on our ski descent.
HamishD - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Billy Grant

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/09

only did the first 5 pitches
Tobias at Home - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/09 with featuresforfeet

featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Tobias at Home

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/09

jonnie3430 - AltLd - 03/Jan/09 with Ewan

Led pitch 5, doing which v nearly cost us the last lift down... Great day out though.
milkyjoe - 2nd - 09/Nov/08 with kenton cool, ewan

alexanderred - AltLd rpt - 16/Sep/08 with Gareth Chapman

chadrads - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/08 with kenton cool

sean72 - 2nd - 02/Sep/08 with Kenton Cool, Chadrads

Pete Graham - AltLd - Sep/08 with Tom King

Finished the route, but did not continue to summit as there was the small matter of the tent to be packed, if we were to make last cable car down (as it happens, we made it by the skin of our teeth). With hindsight, that was short sighted and we should have pushed onto the summit, as we were well acclimatised and climbing well. A great day !
neil.loydon - AltLd O/S - Sep/08 with Jamie Foxley

Simu climbed the first 2 pitches, lead all the following ice and mixed pitches. Excellent route, got on it late in the day and found no crowds! Excellent.
Karl Wooffindin - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Robin

Simu-climbed first 2 pitches, then 2 ace steep ice pitches before two mixed pitches and simu to the summit. Awesome route, and well glad we got up early to get first on
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Andy

Got up at 3am which I moaned about but worked out perfectly in the end, very surreal approaching alongside the masses going up tucal normal route. We were first on the route and simil climbed the first two pitches which had crappy not to steap nevi. Just as it started to get light we hit the steeper stuff which was thin to start forcing me to pitch up mixed ground to the right, two sublime pitches of perfect ice followed(Scottish V/IV) . A few more pitches on steep nevie, then simil climbing on easy mixed ground and tucals snow fields and arêtes brought us to the summit.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Neil Mackenzie

2nd outing on ice after the frendo. Simul climbed the first bit, Lead 4 piches. thoroughly recommended
felixthelion - 10/Aug/08 with T. Brookes

tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with ollie b, Gelix

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

Neil D - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Jonny Phillips

markv21 - Lead O/S - Aug/08

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/08 with MRT

HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/08 with Gordie (Leuchars), Tim

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/08

jam_rich - Jul/08

robertporter - Lead - Jul/08

david0811 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Mark Reid

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/08

Hidden - Solo - 09/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/08

Brown - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/08 with Andy Hobbs

Not so hard when there are steps already cut. Climbed as a three with Chris Glasson
lyneux - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Tom Elliott

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/08

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Feb/08

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/08 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/08

Tom Gadsden - AltLd O/S - Jan/08

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - Jan/08

nofx - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/07

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/07

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/07 with Tom

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/07 with Tom

SamStrong - AltLd - Aug/07

Dinger - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/07 with Martin Heaton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/07

tcn_2002 - 2nd - 10/Jul/07 with Hamish Legge

hlegge - Lead - 10/Jul/07 with Thomas Codrington

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07

DaveLeonard - 2nd - Jul/07

kevburr - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/07 with Roger Payne

Hidden - 18/Apr/07

Christian Beck - AltLd - Feb/07

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jan/07

Hidden - 2007

Bristoldave - AltLd - 2007 with douglas

Ben Wolstenholme - AltLd - 2007 with John Roberts (JR)

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/06

i hate ice climbing
andy jennings - 2nd dnf - Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06

Dhonny_Jaws - 2nd O/S - Jul/06 with Michael Porter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

nickdonohue - Lead - May/06 with Jim Barritt

Great climb! Very crowded though... think carefully about whether you want to "do it French style" and continue climbing when there are parties above you... lots of big rocks and ice falling all around us made me more scared then on many other routes and in hindsight we should have probably bailed or waited until the crowds absailed off.
Brian Birtle - AltLd - 02/Feb/06 with Patagonian Thomas

Brian Birtle - 2nd - 09/Jan/06 with Jon

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006

First on route, huge amounts of spindthrift pouring down the couloir, condition was quite climbed-out, rapped off and lost one of my ice tools (later returned by a party that came up later and found it)
Yyonnx - AltLd - 12/Nov/05 with Eric Frankenmolen

feilx - AltLd - Sep/05 with Dan Barbour

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Sep/05 with Felix Coxwell

gwilym - Lead - Jul/05 with Michael Brownjohn

Easy. Failed attempted Feb 05 due to very hard black ice.
andyinglis - AltLd - Jul/05 with neil adams

Neil Adams - AltLd - Jul/05 with Andy Inglis

Simon K - 2nd - 30/Apr/05 with AB

It's hard to snowboard in Nepal Extremes. More haste = less speed when descending from the 'phrique (next time put crampons on first)
Robbie H - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/05 with Jon Lincoln

edek_w - Mar/05

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Andy Inglis

feilx - Lead O/S - 2005 with Dan Barbour

Jerry67 - Jul/04

Hidden - 27/Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

Ice pitches & Mt Blanc du Tacul.
Gudge - AltLd O/S - Sep/02 with Gareth Hughes

plain kitten - AltLd - Jul/02

Scotsken - Mar/02

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/01

liz j - 2nd - Sep/01 with neil brodie

ian bryant - 2nd - 12/Jun/01 with walter

prcleary - 2000

falling ice on pitch three broke my nose, messy bleeding, left a lot of gear behind. returned to climb this again
stokesrees - Lead - 06/Feb/99 with Gus Melbourne

AB1965 - Lead - 09/Jun/98

First (and only!) winter alpine route. Ignoring the bad forecast we headed up and had the route to ourselves - fantastic! As we later camped below the Cosmiques arete the storm hit and our tents got gradually burried in snow! The epic retreat in zero visability back to the cable car was formative!
andy_pemberton - AltLd - Feb/97 with Jon Scorer

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/96

Grezza - Lead - Apr/96 with Paul E

stokesrees - Solo - 1996

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Apr/95

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/95

NeilGriffiths - Apr/95 with Paul Tucker

Hidden - 1995

alkira - 22/Jun/94 with kerry atkey

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/94

mark-abz - AltLd - 20/Mar/94

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/93

CMacD - 1993

frost - AltLd - Jul/91 with Stone

maximjones - AltLd - Jun/89

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/88

Hidden - Oct/85

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Total votes cast 96
hard D+0 of 43
D+0 of 43
easy D+0 of 43
hard D1 of 43
D35 of 43
easy D6 of 43
hard D-1 of 43
D-0 of 43
easy D-0 of 43
3 Stars29 of 53
2 Stars23 of 53
1 Star1 of 53
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP