Gwynedd > Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog) >
 
Kestrel Cracks** HVS 5a

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[P1...VS4c, 3 kb]3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Photo: P1...VS4c © valentinesbabe
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 239 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Pitch 1
Lucylou19 - AltLd - 05/Sep/14 with Pete Frost, Jeannie Sherwood

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Sep/14

Nice route. The overhang at the top of P1 is best solved by patience: face the slab and don't ignore the huge foot hold by your bum on the arete. The start of P3 is strenuous but the gear is good. Try finishing direct up the slabby wall at the top: this is what the friction must have been like across the whole of the cliff before it was climbed.
Pete_Frost - AltLd rpt - 05/Sep/14 with Jeannie Sherwood, Lucy Sutton

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Aug/14

will moy - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14

StevieJ - 2nd - 18/Aug/14 with C3, lithos

oops looking for Clapton's didn't think it looked like a Dihedral! I enjoyed P1, with an awkward move around overhang at the top. Very traditional bridging. P2 we knew we were off route but didn't knoow what (I had my suspicions) Polished foothold was interesting! steep but soon relents at top of initial groove.
lithos - Lead - 18/Aug/14 with steve j, ccc

C3 - 2nd - 18/Aug/14 with Rob Stone, Steve Johnson

Interesting route, very 3D first pitch, quite perplexing in places. P3 was easier than anticipated although the polished foothold is a slippery trap.View at.. http://youtu.be/A_NEdn95Z7I
caradoc - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Matt H.

Steep chimney/ corner crack was good with tricky crux by the roof. Both cracks on the top pitch were short but strenuous. Very hot day.
George_Surf - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14 with Charlie Sanderson

Pinguville - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/14 with George

adamre12 - AltLd O/S - 30/May/14 with JamesWilliams

Lead pitch 2. bottom pitch best climbed by bridging. the second pitch has an awkward start but soon eases
JamesWilliams - AltLd O/S - 30/May/14 with Adam Revill

Tithe Technique - 2nd O/S - 14/May/14 with Angela Paul, Charley Fell

Love this route. Charley led P1 which I've led previously and I found it harder this time, maybe because I'm fairly unfit at the moment. I led P2 which I've 2nded before and also led P3 which I looked at last time but couldn't commit to more than the first move back then. Went up it this time and it is very committing but there's good gear when you need it. Excellent pitch and a great climb.
valentinesbabe - AltLd O/S - 14/May/14 with Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe

Led P1! Lovely climb with two good pitches.
charley - AltLd O/S - 14/May/14 with Ange, Kev

Not sure why this is 2*? The bottom pitch is a dirty choss fest, the top is polished to a shine and the middle jungle just adds to the crapness... Led P1.
maria85 - AltLd O/S - 05/May/14 with Jules

Rockmonkey1977 - 2nd - 04/May/14

A real delight to climb! The bottom pitch required a really 3D approach with a tough and cramped up crux through the roof. I think I pirroetted. Must have cleaned up pretty well since last person climbed it- not chossy and no problems with loose rock. Top pitch was harder but in total contrast. Happened upon this route accidentally, we only realised we weren't on Clapton Crack at the first belay. 2 stars all the way. probably best climbed as a 2 pitch route.
MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Joel eaton

Got lost and inadvertently did this HVS. First real trad lead (P1 & P3)
FlavioL1989 - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Rob Edwards

Lead P2 & P3
pftom - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Rosie Hawker

andyclimber - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Oct/13

MSchobitz - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/13 with Tom

Teappleby - AltLd - 13/Oct/13 with Micki Schobitz

Simul climbed. We had wanted to do Valerie's Rib but didn't approach the right way (no guidebook), thought this looked good so we did it. Ventured right into The Neb at the final headwall which was good and exposed.
Matthew Ferrier - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/13 with Alex McCann

Led, but simul climbed it with Matt about 10m behind.
amccann - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Sep/13

lead second pitch. running out time and getting dark so rick just' f..ing' did the crux pitch, as he quite rightly put it.
saraguti - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with rick sewards

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/13

GC P1 - sustained and overhung; I P2(grassy)P3 (tough start then eases)
GOS - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with George C

Led first pitch, just about. Bests done when feeling fresh.
georgec - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Gerard

led first pitch, if you go up the crack or rather seam on the right wall as per guide book then the first pitch felt pretty reasonable at 5a? certainly a very stiff 4c. Ab off the first pitch
alpinismo.uk - Lead dnf - 23/Aug/13

Pitch 1 only, very hard for 4c, crux getting around overhang at the top of the pitch.
Simon Cahill - 2nd dnf - 23/Aug/13 with Alpinismo.uk

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Rob Adie, Mel

led the top pitch this time. have led the bottom one in the past
adam06 - AltLd - 11/Aug/13 with chris white

Backed off the first pitch and let Kyle have all the fun. Led only the horrific vegetated middle pitch in the end.
woody0606 - AltLd - 10/Aug/13 with Kyle Williamson

P1 & 3, banging route - wish I could live on it
Kyle87 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13

JanBella - 2nd RP - 24/Jul/13 with pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/13

theomoore - AltLd O/S - Jul/13

guisboro andy - AltLd - Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/13

Found the first pitch strenuous and the second pitch difficult
iwanap - 2nd dog - 10/Jun/13 with Gerwyn

Led p3. Pero ran p 1 & 2 together
cem - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Pero Kalugerovich

Pero - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/13

Roisin - Jun/13

Brilliant first pitch but didn't have time to finish the rest!
JamesLloyd - 2nd dnf - 24/May/13

Ray Sparks - AltLd rpt - 22/May/13 with mike b

me p1, david p2,3 (ran them together)
pebbles - AltLd - 18/May/13 with peri cheale, david williams

Pitch 1 - Hol; pitch 2 - me.
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13

MikeLeeds - AltLd - 05/May/13 with Kevin Bowser

Hidden - AltLd - 04/May/13

Lead first pitch.
eduardo - AltLd rpt - 27/Apr/13 with Mark H

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with Andy Owen

BTphonehome - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Kasha

kasha_gregson - 2nd - 19/Apr/13 with Bram

Led P3. Easy for HVS, but not easy. P1 is brilliant 3D weirdness.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Claire, Simon

Led P1
Leelogs - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with SCC, Colin

kitch22 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Adam Maybury

Lead the top pitch. The awkward crack was... awkward. Went up and down in it a few times before getting on with it....
jezb1 - AltLd - 12/Mar/13

Hidden - 12/Mar/13

simeclimb68 - AltLd rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Ed Mtchell

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Simon Palmer

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/13 with Ian

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12

Ray Sparks - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with adam C

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Oct/12

fizzychewitt - AltLd - 06/Oct/12 with Phil

wynaptomos - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Rampikino - AltLd - 08/Sep/12 with Mario Grabinski

Led second pitch.
Mario Grabinski - AltLd - 08/Sep/12 with Matt Dowsett

Gerallt Owain - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/12 with Nick

mynyddresident - AltLd rpt - 22/Aug/12 with gerallt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/12

Jones_88 - 2nd - 12/Aug/12

steve prior - AltLd - Jul/12 with Andy C

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12

carl_123 - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/12

Templeton Adams - AltLd - 17/Jun/12 with Dave G

Attempted first pitch, backed off under the first overhang :(
TCarrick - 2nd - 02/Jun/12

Will Williams - AltLd O/S - 20/May/12

keith leonard - AltLd - 06/May/12

Only lead p1.
Jones_88 - Lead - 06/May/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/May/12

guy757 - Lead - 28/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/12

P1. Started up thinking it was claptons.
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/12 with G.Lancashire

mhawk - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Kai Ren Ong

BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/12

P1 Then got lost, got the top somehow no idea what we actually climbed
Stroppy - AltLd - 17/Mar/12 with Fiona Adie

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Nov/11

First pitch for me this this.
ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 25/Sep/11 with Vinny

vinspin - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with ritchie

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Sep/11

riff156 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Sandra de Sousa

Hidden - Lead - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11

Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Tom Sampson, Matt Etheridge

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11

nathan.ling - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Joe Wilden

Hidden - 2nd β - 12/Jul/11

chris smith - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

Thought I was doing Christmas Curry, half way up the first pitch decided it wasn't a severe. Ab-ed down after the first pitch.
Chris Perry - Lead - 17/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/11

spidey - 2nd - 04/Jun/11 with adam

I led P1, Chris P2
theotherpetehill - AltLd - 01/Jun/11 with Chris Allan

chrisallan - AltLd dog - 31/May/11

Led first pitch, second pitch tricky start to corner, but good gear.
Danjones - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with Steve Keys

Really good route, fell off top pitch not recommended to Carry a bag. Maybe no falls next time, ehhhh!
hedgehog77 - AltLd - 28/May/11 with ratty

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/May/11

dan ely - AltLd rpt - 22/May/11 with mark westerman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11

tonanf - Lead - May/11 with j

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

Lead 5a pitch it dried out in time after bad Weather
justin burgoyne - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Gary Chekansky

dan ely - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11 with jason

HVS in new guidebook. Led first and third.
Dizz - AltLd - 20/Feb/11 with nb pixel

Fantastic airy first pitch; head game. 3rd pitch strenuous crack (fingerlock). I led 2nd pitch- scrappy- Liz led all the hard bits!
NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with DizLiz

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11

popov86 - AltLd - 20/Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

Tim Sparrow - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

alasdair19 - 2011

mr mills - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/10 with Chris

Lead p2 , great route.
tompilgrem - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Dad

Great route.P1 steep and sustained at top- but never to strenuous as you can chimney/bridge to surmont the overhang/bulge.P3 Initial crack harder than it looks- slippery jam/faith in friction for right foot to reach a good hold- rest of pitch in a great position and straightforward.Suggest HVS as per new guide book.
bobpilgrem - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Bob/Tom

Very good
mynyddresident - AltLd - 06/Oct/10 with ben

daveclarke5 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Andy

schof - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/10

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Andy Psyche

hepitt - Lead rpt - 17/May/10 with Rob Pitt

Rob Pitt - 2nd - 17/May/10 with Helen Pitt

Bottom pitch fun, awkward and loose. Top pitch thugish and fun!
Tomprusk - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Dad

backed off under the roof, raining.
Philippa Arding - Lead - 28/Apr/10

richardr - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10

Lead P1, P2 Found P1 harder than P2.
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Dan with the van

dan-8990 - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10 with NM

halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - Apr/10

zero six - Lead O/S - Apr/10

a touch polished in places
RachelP - 2nd - 14/Feb/10 with Chris

Hidden - 2010

simeclimb68 - 2010

philw - 2010

philw - 2010

mike_uk82 - TR dnf - 17/Oct/09

Only did P1 and P2 then lowered off after a few attempts at the 5a P3, just didn't have the strength required for the move...we were actually looking for the start of Christmas Curry when we ended up doing this as our first climb!!! :D
valentinesbabe - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Steven Fletcher

only first 2 pitches, was a little rough on the last pitch
chumleywarner - 2nd dnf - 04/Oct/09 with Angela Paul

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

P2 for me
Richie Rich - AltLd rpt - 30/May/09 with Pete Colley

I lead 1st and second pitch. Took a fall on first moves of 3rd pitch. Aid lead 3rd pitch to finish seconded by me with a fracture to my Heel spur!! Ouch!
Peeley.b - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with Aidan Bennett

Strenuous and tricky top pitch but well protected.
Conan - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with Philippa Reader

Led P2 & P3 in 1
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 08/May/09 with Clare

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/09

Giles-Caradog - AltLd O/S - Apr/09

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 01/Mar/09 with Tanya Milner

Seymore Butt - 2009

First pitch up broken(ish) corner to beneath overhang. Lots of good nuts at this point, but watch for loose blocks. Gaining overhang a bit pumpy, requiring a wide bridge. Looking down route looks very steep. Second pitch only a scramble. Led third pitch, looked okay but was found to be quite hard work, as the crack puches you over on to the blank right wall. Good gear tho, if you can place it.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Mark, Kate

chalk monster - AltLd - 21/Sep/08 with karl & kate

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 26/May/08 with Jon Holland

nickwhimster - May/08 with Brian Cox

ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/08 with Steve Joynson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/08

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Tom

nic42 - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/08 with dru

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/08

willson - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Phil Stubbs

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - 08/Oct/07

K Wall - AltLd - 23/Jun/07 with Martin

Great crack and chimney climb. Good fun.
KarlH - Lead O/S - 13/May/07 with Tom Hales

Mike led P1; I had to rest on gear at the start of P2: not warmed up and got a flash pump.
Siderunner - AltLd dog - 05/May/07 with Mike P

ebunick - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/07 with Alan

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/06

ChrisJD - 2nd - 27/Aug/06 with rc

ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 11/Aug/06 with Phil Taggart

more like E3 in the rain
sgl0jd - AltLd - Jul/06 with Tom Devas

Hidden - Lead - May/06

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

I did first pitch but Ritchie decided that was enough for him.
ritchierich - Lead dnf - 18/Aug/05 with Ritchie Griffiths

sammoore - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Matt Seaman

clive-greenwood - AltLd - 25/Mar/05 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/05 with Clive Greenwood

Hidden - Lead - 2005

maria85 - 2nd - 31/Oct/04 with Ronnie and ?

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/04

samwelli - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/03 with Steve Hobbs

John Kettle - AltLd - 2003

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 2002

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/00 with Joe Thompson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/00

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

jmr - Lead - 05/Oct/96 with Guillaume

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/96

Tim Bateman - AltLd - 14/May/95

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jul/92

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 02/Dec/90 with brian jones

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - 1990

RichardMc - Lead - 11/Nov/89

Pete Nugent - 30/May/88 with Mike Bullough, Ian Makin

andy gittins - 1985

Melok - AltLd - 1985

Pete Nugent - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/84

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/84

jasper11 - 1984

As a warm up ...
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 16/Jul/83 with Robert Barton

neilh - 2nd - 16/May/83 with dave croker

nigehughes - AltLd - Sep/82 with Eric Joyce

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1982

andy gittins - 1982

Andy Fielding - AltLd - 15/Sep/81 with Mike Gilbert

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981

mark-abz - Lead - 19/Oct/80 with Graham W

Neil R - AltLd - 18/Jun/80 with David M

Ian Clare - 1980

steve L - 1979

Hidden - 1978

rogerskews - Apr/77 with Macclesfield CC Members

RichardMc - Lead - 13/Mar/77 with Daphne Pritchard

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1977 with ?

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 30/Nov/75

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

tapley - AltLd - 03/Jun/71 with Dave Hearnshaw

mikej - Lead - 19/Apr/68 with Ian Clayton

done as a v s. Several times since
David Smith - AltLd - 1965

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
wixy, useful, Hidden, alias dave, fawlty, Hidden, MikeStuart26, Hidden, Hidden, Katex, tasmat, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jack adams

Voting
Total votes cast 115
hard E10 of 28
E10 of 28
easy E10 of 28
hard HVS1 of 28
HVS22 of 28
easy HVS4 of 28
hard VS1 of 28
VS0 of 28
easy VS0 of 28
hard 5b0 of 48
5b0 of 48
easy 5b3 of 48
hard 5a30 of 48
5a15 of 48
easy 5a0 of 48
hard 4c0 of 48
4c0 of 48
easy 4c0 of 48
3 Stars3 of 39
2 Stars32 of 39
1 Star4 of 39
0 Stars0 of 39
Bag of .....0 of 39
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Style of ascent

Lead64 of 239 (26.8%)
Followed36 of 239 (15.1%)
Toproped1 of 239 (0.4%)
Alt Leads111 of 239 (46.4%)
Unknown27 of 239 (11.3%)

'Climbed'109 of 239 (45.6%)
clean O/S106 of 239 (44.4%)
clean β1 of 239 (0.4%)
clean rpt11 of 239 (4.6%)
clean RP1 of 239 (0.4%)
dogged4 of 239 (1.7%)
dnf7 of 239 (2.9%)