226m, 9 pitches. climb the slabs in the centre of the nose, follow a grassy right trending groove to a cave belay. step right under the roof to a slab with crampon scratches (difficult with tall sack) trend up and left to a large block belay. climb the ramp above to a ledge. head up on the right of the ledge and trend left onto the arete move up below the rusty peg, and climb above. follow the corner above to easier ground.

N Drasdo & C Dixon

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, HVS Adventures, The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland.

Ewanski 17/Jun AltLd
with Stuart M
cacheson 29/May AltLd O/S

Fantastic adventure. 10 pitches, 2 ones higher up at HVS, left car at 3pm, topped out into a cloud inversion half an hour before sunset, sat on top watching the sun go down, ran back to the car for 11:45, drove to Torridon for 1:20am. Great fun

with Harry Carstairs
Bruce Kerr 28/May AltLd
with Robert Durran
SWalls 19/Sep/15 AltLd
Samuel Wainwright 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

The GL and SMC route descriptions are about as much use as a chocolate tea-pot on this one. We were definitely off-route before the Hansom Cab stance but managed to get ourselves sorted. Overall it's an outstanding 3* adventure with a wild top couple of pitches but the yarding up the vertical grassy grooves on wet rock for 200m to get there was perverse. http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/the-fiddlers-nose.html

UncleMephisto 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

A botanical monster. The top pitch is a blinder, but you have to slog through the hanging gardens of Babylon to get there. As an adventure it's fantastic, but if you come expecting pitch after pitch of great climbing you've seriously misunderstood the deal. Safe to say we well and truly fell into that trap!

Dougbart ?/Aug/15 AltLd
with James Youren
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Hidden 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
stuart34 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S

most certainly off route

Hidden 15/Jun/13 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 29/May/13 AltLd

Exciting ! The SMC Northern Highlands North totally misses out the 5b arete pitch from the Hansom Cab stance (we understood the Hansom Cab to be a block under a small roof at the end of the grass ledge traverse).

mtempest 29/May/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd
jonnie3430 30/May/12 AltLd O/S

SMC Northern Highlands North was right with description (though what is a Handsome Cab stance?) up till the end of the traverse. 2x60m pitches then ends on top. The peg at the top isn't there any more. See photo topo for route.

with Magnus, Emily
Hidden 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 24/May/12 AltLd O/S

Better to semi-ignore descriptions, which all seem more confusing than helpful. You can reach the 5a slab pitch (p7 or 8 in the guides) anywhich way you like, and from there the line is obvious. Brilliant day out.

with Gordon, Kev
Hidden 24/May/12 -
Hidden 16/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 16/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
Hidden 21/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 01/May/11 AltLd
with Chris Rees
Hidden ??/2011 -
timmy-ts 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Guide book descriptions are dodgy.

cat22 30/May/09 2nd O/S

Interesting route! 2* climbing but 4* situations. Neither guidebook we have was completely accurate but we found our way ok. SMC selected guide misses the 5b crux pitch included in Gary Latter's guide. Gary Latter's guide has incorrect pitch lengths for the final 3 pitches.

with Mike
Captain Solo 19/Apr/09 AltLd
with Dave
cem 20/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Like others, we got a bit lost in places. Walked out in the dark

gordon henderson 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Ken and Lee
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Bruce A Strachan
sgl 23/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
Hidden 23/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
samwelli 06/Sep/04 AltLd
with Reuben Brown
PenJD 20/Apr/03 AltLd
with Jon Ascroft
Colin Mcgregor 23/Jun/01 AltLd
with John Kay
kp64zl ?/Jun/01 AltLd O/S

excellent route - although tough if HVS is your limit.

Darragh ??/2000 AltLd
with John W.
el diablo 26/Jun/99 AltLd
pingora 27/May/94 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden 15/Apr/92 AltLd
brianrunner ?/May/90 AltLd

Great positions. Got a bit lost lower down but the upper section is good. well worth doing but not in the same class as the traditional classics like say centurion, the pause, unicorn, big top .

with gordon innes
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High E1
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High 5b
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High 4c
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