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Direct Nose Route** HVS 5a

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Direct Nose Route >>
[Topping out the Fiddler's Nose, 2 kb]226m, 9 pitches. climb the slabs in the centre of the nose, follow a grassy right trending groove to a cave belay. step right under the roof to a slab with crampon scratches (difficult with tall sack) trend up and left to a large block belay. climb the ramp above to a ledge. head up on the right of the ledge and trend left onto the arete move up below the rusty peg, and climb above. follow the corner above to easier ground.
N Drasdo & C Dixon

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, HVS Adventures.

Photo: Topping out the Fiddler's Nose © Andy Moles
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

most certainly off route
stuart34 - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Stuart Buchan

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/13

Exciting ! The SMC Northern Highlands North totally misses out the 5b arete pitch from the Hansom Cab stance (we understood the Hansom Cab to be a block under a small roof at the end of the grass ledge traverse).
Steve Waters, Mynydd - AltLd - 29/May/13 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/13

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/12

SMC Northern Highlands North was right with description (though what is a Handsome Cab stance?) up till the end of the traverse. 2x60m pitches then ends on top. The peg at the top isn't there any more. See photo topo for route.
jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 30/May/12 with Magnus, Emily

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/12

Better to semi-ignore descriptions, which all seem more confusing than helpful. You can reach the 5a slab pitch (p7 or 8 in the guides) anywhich way you like, and from there the line is obvious. Brilliant day out.
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 24/May/12 with Gordon, Kev

newtonmore - 24/May/12

Drove from Cornwall. 1.5 hours sleep and straight on the hill. Took quite a while finding the initial pitches. Bill accidently did the amazing 5b arete pitch, which probably weighs in at about E2. Started getting dark by the second 5a pitch, so had no qualms about pulling on the peg. Absolutely shitting it on the final two short crack pitches for some reason. Topped out in the dark, started snowing. Got lost coming off the hill, got lost in the peat bog and finally got lost on the road! Back to the car, soaked through and very cold at 4am. Brilliant adventure. 19 hours on the hill immediately following a 12 hour drive. Quite tired. The pitch descriptions in the SMC guide are wildly inaccurate. It's not possible to get to the cave belay in two pitches - three minimum. The top two pitches are more like 45m, not 25. The last described pitch finishes in the middle of nowhere, with more pushy and absurdly exposed climbing to come. There then follows about 150m of scrambling to the summit. Worth taking a compass and noting a bearing for the descent in the event you get benighted. Pretty major undertaking for your average HVS climber and in the middle of bloody nowhere - well good!
Tom Last - AltLd - 16/Apr/12 with Billy

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Apr/12

Bluebird march day and sporting some lovely 80's lycra. Description hazy until pitches 7-9. I definitely wasn't quietly whimpering about running out severe slabs.. Awesome day and first mountain route!
peter.herd - AltLd - 27/Mar/12 with Rory Brown

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Patzl - 2012

Patzl - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/11

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/11

Hidden - 2011

Guide book descriptions are dodgy.
timmy-ts - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10

Interesting route! 2* climbing but 4* situations. Neither guidebook we have was completely accurate but we found our way ok. SMC selected guide misses the 5b crux pitch included in Gary Latter's guide. Gary Latter's guide has incorrect pitch lengths for the final 3 pitches.
cat22 - 2nd O/S - 30/May/09 with Mike

Captain Solo - AltLd - 19/Apr/09 with Dave Kerr

Like others, we got a bit lost in places. Walked out in the dark
cem - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/08 with Graham Dolman

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Ken and Lee

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Bruce A Strachan

sgl - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/05 with Konnie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/05

samwelli - AltLd - 06/Sep/04 with Reuben Brown

PenJD - AltLd - 20/Apr/03 with Jon Ascroft

excellent route - although tough if HVS is your limit.
kp64zl - AltLd O/S - Jun/01

Darragh - AltLd - 2000 with John W.

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/92

Great positions. Got a bit lost lower down but the upper section is good. well worth doing but not in the same class as the traditional classics like say centurion, the pause, unicorn, big top .
brianrunner - AltLd - May/90 with gordon innes

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
CaelanB, Hidden, chapmand, Alex the Alex, Hidden, Jonny M, poeter210, Hidden, punj, JonmapDL, Hidden, Hidden, Lawrie Brand, Steven Andrews, peter.herd, Hidden, oscaig, Neil Mackenzie, Hidden, thegoatstroker, Sankey, Hidden, Hidden, KeithAlexander, Hidden, JuliaH, HIGHTOWER, schultz, 220bpm

Voting
Total votes cast 23
hard E10 of 8
E10 of 8
easy E10 of 8
hard HVS1 of 8
HVS4 of 8
easy HVS2 of 8
hard VS1 of 8
VS0 of 8
easy VS0 of 8
hard 5b0 of 8
5b0 of 8
easy 5b0 of 8
hard 5a1 of 8
5a7 of 8
easy 5a0 of 8
hard 4c0 of 8
4c0 of 8
easy 4c0 of 8
3 Stars3 of 7
2 Stars4 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent

Lead1 of 35 (2.9%)
Followed2 of 35 (5.7%)
Alt Leads27 of 35 (77.1%)
Unknown5 of 35 (14.3%)

'Climbed'23 of 35 (65.7%)
clean O/S12 of 35 (34.3%)