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Saruman HS 4b

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[UBMC's first trip of 2010/11, 4 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Photo: UBMC's first trip of 2010/11 © aipattison
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 128 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/14

Rob Morgan - Lead - 30/Jul/14

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/14 with Clare

started up Gandalf but couldn't sort the crux out so moved left
colinkeb - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with john presley

Klara - 2nd O/S - 05/May/14

davidclare - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Klara Marsikova

Just a few rattlers near the top, but not dodgey.
The Pylon King - TR rpt - 21/Feb/14 with Mr Shunt

JamesRich - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Rob stanfield

Stanners - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/14 with James Rich

Exciting first climb with rob, big lob from crux! Hats off to the man, straight back on and finished well. Tough little route this.
stoneback - 2nd - 11/Jan/14 with Rob, Alan

Wow, did this with comparative ease 3 and a bit years ago (before kids). Today rock up rusty and didn't give it the respect it deserved, lucky to walk away with only my pride wounded! Came off after stepping up and finding the jug was not a jug but a sloper and I had nowhere to go but off.
Bobling - Lead - 11/Jan/14 with Nick

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 10/Jan/14 with Ben

Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/14 with Mike

Hidden - Solo O/S - 09/Oct/13

Found this very hard for the grade. Need micro nuts to protect moves at the start.
George Frisby - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Oct/13

JWard1 - 2nd rpt - 06/Oct/13

Difficult to find gear low down - resorted to the sapling. Nice climb with some technical moves. Helps to be taller.
JulianB - 2nd - 06/Oct/13 with Amanda Redvers

steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/13

Stuart William - Solo rpt - 02/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/13

Gibbo - 2nd - 19/May/13 with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/13

Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Rachael

damp and some shacky holds
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/12 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 23/Oct/12 with Marti999

stafford101 - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12

clams - Lead - Oct/12 with Chaz

Seemed quite potent for HS.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Mick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

wurzelinzummerset - Lead - 06/Mar/12 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/12

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12

Good start with a pretty hard crux about 3m up, however the rock in the top half of this climb and that of Dain next to it is very loose and insecure - be careful!
stoneback - Lead - 29/Jan/12 with Dean

Deano100 - 2nd - 29/Jan/12 with Nick

HarryB - 2nd rpt - 15/Oct/11 with Ollie

Felt hard and scary, though this may have been due to loose holds and questionable gear.
Katherine Ross - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/11 with Clara Horswell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

Tim's first lead fall - Numpty! Had to lead again to get gear back. Top is fairly loose.
maresia - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/11 with Tim Sanders

Stuart William - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/11

beetleb00 - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11

mikeydee135 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Colin Knowles

will909 - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

awsome second climb, route pieced together nicely with great hold and foot placement, definitely repeat. Nice buttress and setting
matt_read - 2nd O/S - 14/May/11 with Richard Adventure

V enjoyable climb... Spot on for the grade...
richardadventurecafe - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Matt Read

Messners Yeti - Lead rpt - 03/May/11 with Ruth Naughton Doe

Ruth ND - 2nd β - 03/May/11 with Pete Swan

luke_judd - Lead - May/11 with Sarah Smith

Quirina - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/11 with Neil Larsen

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/11

becoming-stranger - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11 with Josh West

Josh_West - 2nd - 06/Apr/11

Rain stopped play after this. Protection low down is suprisingly thin for the grade - I could only get micros in. Top has some loose blocks - beware.
hms - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Jenny

Hidden - 2nd β - 03/Apr/11

Messners Yeti - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/11 with Alex Pattison

fletch73 - 2011

aipattison - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with UBMC

Messners Yeti - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Rich

HarryB - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10

Severe in guide - felt much harder and gear fiddly to place
mick1jones - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Carol Umarova, Dave Wilkinson

tobydunford - Solo O/S - 02/Oct/10

Shonkhor - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Jim

Thoroughly enjoyable, a few loose block on the face!
Bobling - Lead - 17/Sep/10 with Chris

dale1968 - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Tom

Beautiful location.
TommityP - 09/Jul/10 with merriottmm

Nice climb, quite varied with a comitting crux which could see you bounce off the gully to the left. Good friction though. Quite a few sub size zero nuts. Some loose feeling stuff at the top
PaulWatson - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Ben

top half of this bottom half Dain
climbingxcat - 2nd - 31/May/10 with Brian

ruaidh - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with StacyC

suffolknick - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Rob Patterson, Paul

zombie_pat - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Paul, Nick

upontop - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with Chris

a smidge loose on the top section.
Bonkers Dog - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10

timofy - Lead - 11/Apr/10

joeurwin - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with James Hunt

good route hard HS
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Dave Elder

R_W_M - 2nd - 26/Sep/09 with Gareth

nick hawkins - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09 with matt

lizannday - 2nd - Jun/09 with Alisdair Cairns

ecromwell - Lead - Jun/09 with Alison Cromwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/09

Cypher - 2nd O/S - 25/May/09

existing debt - 08/Apr/09 with Iain a

rorschach - 2nd - 28/Mar/09 with Kev_George

kev_george - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/09

Enjoyable but a bit chossy at the top and a tad run out in places (probably just me thought :-s).
nblackbeard - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Tom Grant

roc n run - 2nd - 27/Jul/08 with H & Scotty

Paz - 2nd - 03/May/08 with TS2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08

babymoac - Lead - 26/Apr/08 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Feb/08

maresia - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Bernard Stricker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/07

Spazzed about on this... Haven't climbed for a while...
Tamlyn - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Mark Somerfield

Hidden - Lead - 03/Mar/07

Protheroe - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Douglas Hamilton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/07

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Matt, Christian

Matty - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/06 with Vicky Spencer

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/06

Jethro - Solo - May/06

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/06 with Duncan

James Moyle - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/06 with R.Nelson

Tamlyn - Lead O/S - 2006

mike kann - 2006 with Gareth Wood

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 22/Dec/05

sam coward - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/05 with Helen and Wayne

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/05

Jen79 - 2nd - Aug/05 with Matt Litchfield

KarlH - Lead O/S - 01/May/05 with Tom Hales

dpmUK - 2nd - 16/Apr/05 with Mike Dixon

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with Laura

jim_randell - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/99 with DG

leland stamper - Solo O/S - 17/Jul/99

jmr - Lead - 20/Nov/94

jim_randell - Lead rpt - 06/Nov/93 with LS

jim_randell - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Dec/89

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/82

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 74
hard VS0 of 25
VS0 of 25
easy VS1 of 25
hard HS6 of 25
HS17 of 25
easy HS1 of 25
hard S0 of 25
S0 of 25
easy S0 of 25
hard 4c0 of 25
4c0 of 25
easy 4c0 of 25
hard 4b5 of 25
4b12 of 25
easy 4b7 of 25
hard 4a1 of 25
4a0 of 25
easy 4a0 of 25
3 Stars0 of 24
2 Stars0 of 24
1 Star18 of 24
0 Stars6 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Soloed6 of 128 (4.7%)
Lead79 of 128 (61.7%)
Followed38 of 128 (29.7%)
Toproped1 of 128 (0.8%)
Unknown4 of 128 (3.1%)

'Climbed'39 of 128 (30.5%)
clean O/S73 of 128 (57.0%)
clean β2 of 128 (1.6%)
clean rpt12 of 128 (9.4%)
dogged1 of 128 (0.8%)
dnf1 of 128 (0.8%)