Very long day, camped over the night before! Great route and probably could of done in a day. joe.91 - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/13 with Thomas Reid
Gordon Lacey - AltLd - 03/Sep/13 with Scott Rankin
Scott Rankin - AltLd - 03/Sep/13 with Gordon Lacey
Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/13
Mostly moved together. Pitched middle rock band but took a variation to left up overhanging corner crack. Approx Scottish Tech 6. Brilliant route. Due to new partner having issues with normal route, abseil descent which left us benighted. Fun day all in and gained some very funny tan lines.
dutybooty - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/13 with Lee
Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/13
Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Aug/13
robgixer - Aug/13
Benighted but smiling!!!
leeoftroy - AltLd O/S - Aug/13
TRFrost - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with N. Price
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13
Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/13
HarryB - Solo O/S - 07/Jul/13
Epic 2,pitched it all so we were first on and last off, had to rush back down the normal route to the Tacul and ended with steve carrying both bags and still being faster than me going up the Midi arete...just managed to get the last lift. Great route though.
zcsharp - Lead - 06/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs
Awesome route, was in great condition but took longer than expected and had to spend night in Cosmique hut cos thought we'd missed the last lift down (turns out we probably didn't so well worth checking last lift time in the morning)
LeadBalloon - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Mark
NoelleG - 2nd - 02/Jul/13 with gde
Should've pitched from the start of the ice/steep snow. Lack of communication and indecision made is retreat. Lots of ice coming down on my head and some very large rocks coming from up above. Maybe get on this when it's well frozen and don't hang around...
alooker - AltLd dnf - Jul/13 with David
stanleynkk - AltLd - Jul/13 with Oliver Alderman, Danny Barden
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13
Hidden - 23/Jun/13
Gumery - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/13 with Forshaw
avinash1981 - 2nd rpt - 22/Jun/13 with Tim Neil
cwhitty - 22/Jun/13
Started too late, ice not in great nick at the top, bit too much dinner plating for my liking as I had to lead ice pitches as Brads front points kept slipping. Ab'd off, terrible decision, rope got stuck multiple times took us about 4hours to get to bottom of route, got back down to hut for about 10pm. Long day.
Lxaddison - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Brad Cunningham
Moved together up until rock step then pitched. Descended via Tacul normal route.
thomaspomfrett - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Sam Thomas
Brian Pollock - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13
paulmck - AltLd - 06/Jun/13
rashwell - 2nd - Jun/13
leowestland - Jun/13
muzz44 - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Ryan
With Andy Owen
acb44 - Jun/13
Nemo9 - AltLd - Jun/13 with Col
Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/May/13
James Thacker - 2013
dave josling - AltLd - Sep/12
weather turned while on the route so finished and abseiled down rather than summit
timofy - AltLd O/S - Sep/12
Great route but could have done without the snow plot to the top afterwards. Next time I'll bring tat and abseil down.
Andre Clarke - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Weagie
JKBowers - AltLd - 12/Aug/12 with Ben Bennet
Thrilling! Did the summit and back down the snow slope.
AlexxelA - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/12
Seconding John for his assessment. Really good route with some interesting narrowing "Scottish" sections. Did not go to the summit of Du Tacul as there was a queue on the top rock section. Descended via the normal route down seracs.
chris687 - 2nd - 10/Jul/12 with pete rowlands, john holliday
Did not start would be more appropriate. Ab'd off at first rock section after basically soloing 50 degree ice and partner not too comfortable.
OwenF - Lead dnf - Jul/12 with James Franklin
davebrox - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/12 with howard
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12
danfitz - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Tom Woolgar
Roped solo the first ice patch. Rock move immediately after this was probably the crux. 5hrs to the top of the route, didn't go all the way to Tacul summit, joined the Tacul normal route and descended to Cosmiques hut.
pawelx - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12
We followed track marks and because of that ended up finishing a bit more to the left on what I believe might be the Petit Frounet route. Because it was very warm the ice straight up was too hard and there was a lot of powder snow. We went straight from London and felt the altitude really hard. Down the normal route, 10h from the Aiguille du Midi and back to Cosmique hut.
Murilo Lessa - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Pawel Zdziarski
nich0las - AltLd - 15/Sep/11 with Guy W
Hidden - 31/Aug/11
Jack Doyle - 11/Aug/11 with Derek
Hidden - 04/Jul/11
supos - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Lars Fjendbo
Simult solo, 1.5hrs to summit
Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Alalister Gurney
Hidden - 04/Sep/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/10
alan barnes - Sep/10 with Dan Platt, luke
off the third midi lift of the morning, truly lazy start. JUST made the last lift down, but not without being heckled by the lift staff from the bridge!
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with kyle warlow
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/10
Kris - Sep/10
James S - AltLd - Sep/10
Hidden - 26/Aug/10
Pat-H - 2nd - 11/Aug/10
declanj - Aug/10
Jack Finney - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/10
MT led all the way, a couple of very nice ice pitches. Continued to Tacul summit then descended normal route and back to Midi station.
JGW - Jul/10 with Matt Tilley
kevburr - 2nd O/S - 26/May/10 with Roger Payne
Did not reach Tacul summit, ab'd down route
stuart34 - 2nd - 12/Jan/10 with James Monypenny
Hidden - 2010
Just awesome with AMS thrown in for fun - started chucking chunks just outside the hut and didn't stop til the next morning! Maybe it was the £17 dinner that did it!
Timo Austino - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/09
KerryClimbing - Lead - Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/09
Same grade as Cosmique Ridge?
Good route though.
farmus21 - AltLd - 17/Aug/09 with Nick Stephens
nickstephens - AltLd - 17/Aug/09 with James Gray
Some clear ice in the middle to keep things interesting. We were too slow though; we didn't even try to reach the summit but hiked down the normal route and just made it to the last telepherique.
reima - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Niamh
mathquirk - Lead - 04/Jul/09 with Petter Zachrisson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/09
Ollie B - 29/Jun/09 with B.Jacobs, S.Jones
BenJacobs - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with Steve and Ollie
Mathijs - 2009
andybrown114 - 2nd - 17/Aug/08 with Graham Frost
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/08
Lear - 2nd O/S - Jul/08 with Carl, Graham
robertporter - Lead - Jul/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/08
Neil D - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Jonny Phillips
Hidden - 2nd - Jun/08
existing debt - 2nd dnf - 29/Jan/08 with Iain a
easers - AltLd - 24/Oct/07 with Doug Aitken
nic42 - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with dru
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/07
Attempted. Made it to 2 pitches above the big gully.
Ed Saint - Jul/07
Continued to summit
Bristoldave - AltLd - 2007 with douglas
Nice route in good condition. Used the climb for acclimatisation at the start of a week-long trip. No great difficulty. Ab'ed down western side of triangle on completion. Perfect weather.
Big Lee - Solo O/S - 06/Nov/06 with Phil Davis, Jonathan Brown
Andy37 - 2nd O/S - Sep/06
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/06
Sgt_Nige - Jul/06 with H. Pell
lberry - Jun/06
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05
Andy37 - 2nd O/S - Sep/05
Simon K - 2nd - Aug/05 with Rich Cross + PR
Failed to reach summit of Tacul (stopped at plateau just beneath - too knackered with altitude).
Robbie H - AltLd β - Jul/05 with Glenn Watters
Hidden - 23/Jun/05
Snow started to fall on the second pitch so we abbed off just below the pinnacle on the 4th pitch in snow and small avalanches. Crossed the Vallee Blanche in the same conditions to the tent where we were stuck for three days in bad conditions. On the third day the weather eased a bit (though when we got down to Chamonix the telephrique station sign was showing 100kph wind and minus 14oc for the top station) and we heard the tannoy from the top station. Rammed our gear into packs and set off on a desperate climb up to the station. Joe led most of it and set off an avalanch about two pitches from the station. 18 inches of fresh snow had fallen since we arrived on the 13th. Two Spanish climbers were at the railings outside the ice cave and offered to help us on the last pitch. There was one car up and down that day to change the staff. Desperate.
AndyP - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/04 with Joe
The initial snow slopes were hard ice, this was unforeseen so we had to pitch them with only 3 ice screws between us. From there on we were able to move together to the top in 5 hours, & another hour & ½ to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. We descended via the normal route (North-West Face) it was closed 2 days later!
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/03 with Paul Nurse
liz j - 2nd - Sep/02 with neil brodie
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/02
Mostly seconded the route after dislocating my shoulder on the 3rd pitch.
LakesWinter - 2nd - 09/Jul/01 with Wil
stokienomad - AltLd - 23/Jul/93