Moved together. Mixed step at half height is pretty thin at the moment.
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/15 with Misha Nepogodiev
A bit of a stolen day: the forecasts disagreed, we decided to go up to have a look anyway and were rewarded with blue skies and clouds below the Geant glacier, very scenic. The route was in surprisingly good nick after a very hot summer. Mostly a mix of good neve and bits of ice, with just a few bucket step sections on soft snow. Moved together except for two short mixed pitches (at the top of the initial couloir and then going left just after), which I led. About Scottish tech 4 for those bits, so I guess hard for the grade at the moment but most of it is easier, still fun though. 3 hours to the top of the Triangle. Didn't fancy looking for the ab stations down the Chere, the weather was good, we had time and the Tacul face was tracked, so pressed on to the Tacul summit, which was another hour. An hour to descend to below the Chere down a decent track and then another hour to slog up to the Midi. Got the last (or penultimate?) lift with a bit of time to spare (the first lift wasn't till 9am due to deicing, otherwise would have been pretty chilled but we weren't rushed anyway).
Misha - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/15 with Alex
Lead the first three pitches planning to cut across to Contamine Negri but abbed off, as the warm weather was causing alot of rock fall
Remyveness - Lead dnf - 20/Aug/15 with Aaron Markowitz
Moved together for whole route except for the mixed step at top of the gully.
thom_jenkinson - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/15 with Rob
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 26/Jun/15
sj87 - 2nd - 11/Jun/15
Alpine week with guide Pelle Bagewitz
steveforgrieve - 11/Jun/15
Eagertom - 2nd - Jun/15 with Laura Shaw, Dan Murray
simul solo, left edge not grisolle
aerobiee - Solo O/S - 31/May/15 with Dave Searle
Hidden - Lead - 24/May/15
Hidden - Solo - 12/May/15
Lovely mixed climb. Walked up tacul.
davkeo - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/14
Hidden - Lead - 14/Sep/14
left hut at 3 and climbed most in the dark, amazing mixed climbing
Matt Schwarz - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/14 with katie
Katie S - AltLd - 04/Sep/14 with Matt Schwarz
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/14
McGuinness - 20/Aug/14 with Nick
mrbird - AltLd - 08/Aug/14
2hrs from midi to summit of Tacul
fulton333 - Solo - Aug/14
lead the whole route
friendzone1234 - Lead O/S - Aug/14
Moved together on lower half and then on ice pitch.
GuitarGenius92 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/14 with will smith
Five hours to the summit of Tacul. Abseiled down Gully Chere with other friends for four hours. Ended up sleeping in Cosmique Hut as missed the last telepherique.
wiibaker - AltLd β - 01/Jul/14
Moving together, took around 3 hours.
kelly_426 - Jul/14 with Luke Dudill
Only one other party on the route, due to the bad forecast. Simulclimbed all of the route spare the crux and the variation after the crux. Walked down Tacul Normal Route. First lift up 12:30 lift down.
MSchobitz - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Lawrence BP
Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/14
Ace route long day! Lead P2,4,5,6?? Had to rush for last lift, was pretty haggard but not quite as much as Sam, amazing effort at the end!!
JakeWShaw - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Sam Ashworth
Very long day out. Much more ice than expected. Overall a fantastic day!
sadams601 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14
td72 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14
td72 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14
Sam Ash - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Jake Shaw
Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Kris and Nolan
Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/14
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/14 with Kelly, Luke, Tom Nichols
Hidden - 21/Jun/14
With ollie and joe. Moved together
KatOstrich - 21/Jun/14 with Ollie
Ice in perfect condition all the way up. Watching the sun rise over the vallee blanche was phenomenally good!
Lxaddison - AltLd rpt - 21/Jun/14 with Jack Hodgson
barrowclough - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Jake Howard
Hidden - 21/Jun/14
Guided by ISM. Really enjoyable route, esp final ice runnels at top. Followed Terry's snow plough to summit of Mt Blanc du Tacul for picnic before descending voie normal. Long but fantastic day out.
scree - 19/Jun/14
johnrich - 2nd - 17/Jun/14
Hidden - Jun/14
QuentinSu - Jun/14
Hidden - 2014
Very long day, camped over the night before! Great route and probably could of done in a day.
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/13 with Thomas Reid
Gordon Lacey - AltLd - 03/Sep/13 with Scott Rankin
Scott Rankin - AltLd - 03/Sep/13 with Gordon Lacey
Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/13
Mostly moved together. Pitched middle rock band but took a variation to left up overhanging corner crack. Approx Scottish Tech 6. Brilliant route. Due to new partner having issues with normal route, abseil descent which left us benighted. Fun day all in and gained some very funny tan lines.
dutybooty - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/13 with Lee
Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/13
jimmatthews - AltLd - 16/Aug/13 with Hannah Gibbs
Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Aug/13
robgixer - Aug/13
Benighted but smiling!!!
leeoftroy - AltLd O/S - Aug/13
I did pitches 5, 7, 9, second the rest
friendzone1234 - AltLd O/S - Aug/13 with matthew reynolds
TRFrost - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with N. Price
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13
Started the climb at 04.00 just before a team of three. Never saw the on the rute. Perfect conditions even with footsteps to follow. 06.00: The gulley pitch was a little scary. Summited at 08.20. A serac at the normal route of MB had collapsed reminding me to be fast.
Sir Stefan - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/13
HarryB - Solo O/S - 07/Jul/13
Epic 2,pitched it all so we were first on and last off, had to rush back down the normal route to the Tacul and ended with steve carrying both bags and still being faster than me going up the Midi arete...just managed to get the last lift. Great route though.
zcsharp - Lead - 06/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs
steve_gibbs - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Jamie Roberts
Awesome route, was in great condition but took longer than expected and had to spend night in Cosmique hut cos thought we'd missed the last lift down (turns out we probably didn't so well worth checking last lift time in the morning)
LeadBalloon - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Mark
NoelleG - 2nd - 02/Jul/13 with gde
Should've pitched from the start of the ice/steep snow. Lack of communication and indecision made is retreat. Lots of ice coming down on my head and some very large rocks coming from up above. Maybe get on this when it's well frozen and don't hang around...
alooker - AltLd dnf - Jul/13 with David
stanleynkk - AltLd - Jul/13 with Oliver Alderman, Danny Barden
kelly_426 - Jul/13 with Polly Harmer, Luke Dudill
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13
joelevanschamonix - AltLd β - 25/Jun/13 with Emily roo
Hidden - 23/Jun/13
Gumery - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/13 with Forshaw
Avinash Aujayeb - 2nd rpt - 22/Jun/13 with Tim Neil
cwhitty - 22/Jun/13
Started too late, ice not in great nick at the top, bit too much dinner plating for my liking as I had to lead ice pitches as Brads front points kept slipping. Ab'd off, terrible decision, rope got stuck multiple times took us about 4hours to get to bottom of route, got back down to hut for about 10pm. Long day.
Lxaddison - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Brad Cunningham
Moved together up until rock step then pitched. Descended via Tacul normal route.
thomaspomfrett - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Sam Thomas
Brian Pollock - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13
paulmck - AltLd - 06/Jun/13
rashwell - 2nd - Jun/13
leowestland - Jun/13
muzz44 - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Ryan
With Andy Owen
AdamCB - Jun/13
Nemo9 - AltLd - Jun/13 with Col
Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/May/13
James Thacker - 2013
Dave Searle - 2013
Hidden - AltLd - 2013
dave josling - AltLd - Sep/12
weather turned while on the route so finished and abseiled down rather than summit
timofy - AltLd O/S - Sep/12
Great route but could have done without the snow plot to the top afterwards. Next time I'll bring tat and abseil down.
Andre Clarke - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Weagie
JKBowers - AltLd - 12/Aug/12 with Ben Bennet
Thrilling! Did the summit and back down the snow slope.
AlexxelA - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/12
Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jul/12
Did not start would be more appropriate. Ab'd off at first rock section after basically soloing 50 degree ice and partner not too comfortable.
OwenF - Lead dnf - Jul/12 with James Franklin
davebrox - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/12 with howard
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12
danfitz - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Tom Woolgar
Roped solo the first ice patch. Rock move immediately after this was probably the crux. 5hrs to the top of the route, didn't go all the way to Tacul summit, joined the Tacul normal route and descended to Cosmiques hut.
pawelx - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12
We followed track marks and because of that ended up finishing a bit more to the left on what I believe might be the Petit Frounet route. Because it was very warm the ice straight up was too hard and there was a lot of powder snow. We went straight from London and felt the altitude really hard. Down the normal route, 10h from the Aiguille du Midi and back to Cosmique hut.
Murilo Lessa - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Pawel Zdziarski
nich0las - AltLd - 15/Sep/11 with Guy W
Hidden - 31/Aug/11
Jack Doyle - 11/Aug/11 with Derek
Hidden - 04/Jul/11
supos - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Lars Fjendbo
Simult solo, 1.5hrs to summit
Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Alalister Gurney
Hidden - 04/Sep/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/10
alan barnes - Sep/10 with Dan Platt, luke
off the third midi lift of the morning, truly lazy start. JUST made the last lift down, but not without being heckled by the lift staff from the bridge!
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with kyle warlow
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/10
Kris - Sep/10
James S - AltLd - Sep/10
Hidden - 26/Aug/10
Pat-H - 2nd - 11/Aug/10
declanj - Aug/10
Jack Finney - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/10
MT led all the way, a couple of very nice ice pitches. Continued to Tacul summit then descended normal route and back to Midi station.
JGW - Jul/10 with Matt Tilley
kevburr - 2nd O/S - 26/May/10 with Roger Payne
Did not reach Tacul summit, ab'd down route
stuart34 - 2nd - 12/Jan/10 with James Monypenny
Hidden - 2010
Just awesome with AMS thrown in for fun - started chucking chunks just outside the hut and didn't stop til the next morning! Maybe it was the £17 dinner that did it!
Timo Austino - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/09
KerryClimbing - Lead - Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/09
Same grade as Cosmique Ridge?
Good route though.
farmus21 - AltLd - 17/Aug/09 with Nick Stephens
nickstephens - AltLd - 17/Aug/09 with James Gray
Some clear ice in the middle to keep things interesting. We were too slow though; we didn't even try to reach the summit but hiked down the normal route and just made it to the last telepherique.
reima - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Niamh
mathquirk - Lead - 04/Jul/09 with Petter Zachrisson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/09
Ollie B - 29/Jun/09 with B.Jacobs, S.Jones
BenJacobs - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with Steve and Ollie
Mathijs - 2009
Hidden - 2nd - 15/Aug/08
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/08
Lear - 2nd O/S - Jul/08 with Carl, Graham
robertporter - Lead - Jul/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/08
Neil D - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Jonny Phillips
Hidden - 2nd - Jun/08
existing debt - 2nd dnf - 29/Jan/08 with Iain a
Hidden - AltLd - 24/Oct/07
nic42 - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with dru
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/07
Attempted. Made it to 2 pitches above the big gully.
Ed Saint - Jul/07
Continued to summit
Bristoldave - AltLd - 2007 with douglas
Nice route in good condition. Used the climb for acclimatisation at the start of a week-long trip. No great difficulty. Ab'ed down western side of triangle on completion. Perfect weather.
Big Lee - Solo O/S - 06/Nov/06 with Phil Davis, Jonathan Brown
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/06
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/06
Sgt_Nige - Jul/06 with H. Pell
lberry - Jun/06
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/05
Simon K - 2nd - Aug/05 with Rich Cross + PR
Failed to reach summit of Tacul (stopped at plateau just beneath - too knackered with altitude).
Robbie H - AltLd β - Jul/05 with Glenn Watters
Hidden - 23/Jun/05
Snow started to fall on the second pitch so we abbed off just below the pinnacle on the 4th pitch in snow and small avalanches. Crossed the Vallee Blanche in the same conditions to the tent where we were stuck for three days in bad conditions. On the third day the weather eased a bit (though when we got down to Chamonix the telephrique station sign was showing 100kph wind and minus 14oc for the top station) and we heard the tannoy from the top station. Rammed our gear into packs and set off on a desperate climb up to the station. Joe led most of it and set off an avalanch about two pitches from the station. 18 inches of fresh snow had fallen since we arrived on the 13th. Two Spanish climbers were at the railings outside the ice cave and offered to help us on the last pitch. There was one car up and down that day to change the staff. Desperate.
AndyP - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/04 with Joe
The initial snow slopes were hard ice, this was unforeseen so we had to pitch them with only 3 ice screws between us. From there on we were able to move together to the top in 5 hours, & another hour & ½ to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. We descended via the normal route (North-West Face) it was closed 2 days later!
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/03 with Paul Nurse
liz j - 2nd - Sep/02 with neil brodie
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/02
Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/01
stokienomad - AltLd - 23/Jul/93