350m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

A Contamine and P Mazeaud 21/Jul/1963

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Hidden 02/Nov AltLd rpt
Hidden 30/Sep Solo
Misha 12/Sep AltLd O/S

Cruisey day hit before the weather came in late afternoon. Two and a half hours up, moving together all the way with a changeover on the shoulder after the end of the snow and ice section. Alex led up to there on mostly good neve and ice (just occasional crusty snow). I led the top bit, taking a random mixed line to the right of the crest, about the same grade. Nine abs down, which took two hours (four to get to the Chere, four down the Chere and the last one down the approach snow slope and over the mild schrund). That was on 55m and 50m ropes, a bit of a stretch to get to one of the ab stations (though there was an intermediary) and over the schrund but it was just about enough - 2x 60m would be better but we were going lightweight. So nice to move with light packs after our heavily laden outing on the Noire! Glad we abbed off as just after we got down a big serac avalanche came down the Tacul normal route. Fortunately no one was caught up in it but the PGHM arrived within a few minutes to check it out and give a lift down to a team that was descending just above the slide. Scary!

with Alex
alexm198 12/Sep AltLd O/S
JHolland ?/Sep -

The route was done for the first time in almost two months the day before... massively refreshed by the snow over the preceding days. Thin in places, and some pretty horrible granular snow offering not too much in the way of security, but long sections of hard blue ice/neve at the crux lower section. Rapped the chere couloir. Excellent long and varied route-ice, fast snow romping and easy mixed. Nice to tick an ice route after such a hot summer!

clmacdonald ?/Sep AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul AltLd
aerobiee 09/May Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 09/May 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr Lead O/S
buffalo606 ??/2015 -
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead
Steve Wakeford 02/Oct/14 AltLd

Moved together. Dropped glove at top, rapped Cherie, found it at bottom!

with Mikael Abrahamsson
morpcat 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
wilkinscl 01/Sep/14 AltLd
davkeo ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Used two 50m ropes and only had 2 ice screws. Ended up doing most of directissime as I sought some rock to sling a belay.

aljones91 24/Aug/14 AltLd

An awesome route! Perfect neve the entire way!! Abseiled down cherre couloir to finish!

with Ben hester
Big Lee 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Led all the climbing from the first belay above the bergschrund. Perfect snow conditions and lot of it for late August.

annak 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
peter.ravenscroft27 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Moved together apart from crux's, Scottish Grade 3 would say. awesome ice. great route.

with Joe Mann
Mr. K 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Prior to this day, no track in Normal Route to Tacul was there due to the heavy snowfall, while we spotted several parties walk up on this day. We set off Col du Midi at 6:15am, finished the route at 12:00, summitted Tacul at 13:30, descended via Chère Couloir with a single 60-metres rope with 20-metres pull-cord, and arrived at Col du Midi at 19:20. The ice conditions were all right - Scottish grade III ish. Lesson: Light is not always right; you had better take another full-rope if the multi-pitch abseil is planned... Very valuable experience anyhow.

with Kyle
Hidden 06/Jul/14 AltLd
joelevanschamonix 06/Jul/14 AltLd β


with Tim Oliver
kelly_426 ?/Jul/14 AltLd

Great climb. Entire route was ice, swang alternate pitches.

Ewan Russell 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Kelly, Luke, Tom Nichols
MSchobitz 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic ice and neve all the way! Great conditions at the moment! Bottom section has 70 degree ice and top has some tricky rock climbing and thin ice crux. Topped out and had enough time to climb Mont Blanc du Tacul as well.

Gumery 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Grant
laurence_falconer ?/Jun/14 -
with joe innes
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
niallsash ?/Jun/14 -
fulton333 ?/May/14 Lead
with Johnny
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
wilkinscl ??/2014 -

Abed down the west face of the triangle instead of down chere which was a mistake as it's a long and half equipped decent.

James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden 01/Nov/13 AltLd
Dougbart 01/Nov/13 AltLd
with Iain
danJBA 02/Oct/13 AltLd
Kayan 02/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd
geoff.comley 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Long route when pitched, should of moved together as didn't have any technical sections

machars 23/Aug/13 AltLd

Moved together. Didn't quite get to summit of tacul- probably a bit high for first route of trip!

Hidden 23/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/13 AltLd
chris687 15/Aug/13 AltLd

Moved together on most of the route using occasional rock belays when they occurred. We went to the top of the second snow slope where the ridge begins. From here you can descend on to the normal route up Du Tacul with some down climbing on snow slopes. This would be quicker than descending the Chere and would also mean that it could be done with only one rope.

jimmatthews 15/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead dnf
Bruce S 19/Jul/13 2nd dnf
Fultonius 04/Jul/13 Solo O/S

Moved together the whole way. Definitely feeling the lack of acclimatisation on the walk back up to the Midi!

Hidden 04/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
thomaspomfrett 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Neil (Conville/Alps)
Hidden 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Alex Munnery 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Luke Duckworth
paulmck 03/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 14/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/May/13 Lead
Jacob Forshaw 05/May/13 2nd O/S
Kris ?/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Dave Searle ??/2013 -
Hidden 12/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
HarryB 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions! topped out on the Tacul and missed the last lift by 5 mins!

with Al
trivett 07/Jul/12 AltLd

Cold morning with fresh snow, belay after the first pitch in constant spindrift, boarderline powder avalanche, the coldest belay I've ever used... otherwise fantastic neve and weather nearly all the up! Unfortunately had to be down to catch the bus back to the uk so no time to gain the summit, abseiled down chere couloir.

with Mike Hood
Mike Hood 07/Jul/12 AltLd
with trivett
Tdavy01 29/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
pawelx 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

3rd cable car from Chamonix, at the base of the climb around 10:00. Took way too long because of lack of acclimatization (did it as a weekend trip from London). Hardest bit was not the 60 degree ice pitch, but mixed climbing at the very end of the climb - literally the last 10 meters or so.

with Murilo
Murilo Lessa 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Pawel Zdziarski
Hidden 11/Mar/12 AltLd dnf
sam_lav ??/2012 -
sam_lav ??/2012 -
nickcj 30/Oct/11 -
Hidden 11/Oct/11 -
Hidden 16/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
robpartridge 03/Aug/11 Solo

Hard ice + small boots = burst toes

Phil Emerson ?/Aug/11 AltLd
np134 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

descended in a white out, missed the last lift and ended up sleeping in the midi toilets.

with C. Price
Ginger McGrath 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

moved together and topped out on the tacul, nice route.

with phil emerson
James S 14/Jul/11 Solo O/S

about 2 hours from the shrund. really enjoyable top gully even though the ice was a bit dodgy.

Hidden 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
RKernan 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

All icy, very tiring. led all the pitches, first proper ice lead, ended up missing the car and spending the night in the Midi toilets. D'oh.

with Niall Browne
Petarghh 09/Jun/11 AltLd

Backed off just below steeper ice section, due to large spindrift avalanches making progress difficult and dangerous, abbed off peg belay then abalakov over the schrund. found the route easy, moving together for a section then pitching a section of stepper ice.

supos 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Lars Fjendbo
mike.moss 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Rollo 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, pitched the two steep ice sections but otherwise mostly moving together. The descent of the back was another matter... multiple absiels as night fell, back to the Cosmiques after midnight. Don't start this one at midday!

with Mike
Hidden 11/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
andybuckley 29/Aug/10 AltLd

Chere Gully was looking intimidating and rocky, so bailed to this. Very icy, and a second alpine route for Rich and Carrie, so we ended up pitching most of it and running over time. Most belays off not-so-great ice screws, and the final long traverse across 50 degree ice had to be rather scarily moved together between dodgy screws. Not great conditions, but not retreatable in that condition either. Abbed down Chere Gully, which in retrospect would have been fine a nd a lot safer! Escape up to the Midi from the Cosmiques Hut the next day in 100 kph wind, snow and white-out was also... interesting!

with Carrie Bolton, Rich Kemp
Hidden 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
tjmillen ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Cardi 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Ice pitch in middle was a bit cheeky, as was the hanging belay on screws. Snow was decent. Continued up to MB du Tacul

with Ryan
Ben Briggs 27/Jun/10 Solo O/S

Climbed and skied back down the route.

with Brendan
benny_m 23/Jun/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 23/Jun/10 AltLd dnf
Charlie Evans 09/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Unai
Hidden 06/Apr/10 -
Hardonicus 11/Mar/10 2nd dnf

We did the first two ice pitches one afternoon as a warm up and to check out the Chere Couloir for the next day.

with Tom Woods
basvdploeg ??/2010 -
Hidden 08/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
JDSwain 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Moved together with me at front. About hour and a half base to top. First alpine route. Very pleasant

with Tom Ripley
joese7en ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
BorisVBlade 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Neil Dowse, Sam Davies
sam820 29/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 07/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
adw07 10/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

The central line on the triangle, a great route. Got off the main snow face onto the ridge just as the sun hit, took about 3 hours in total. Simul climbed most of the way, only pitching the last exit chimney.

with Nick Donohue
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead dnf
nickdonohue ?/Aug/08 -

Superb climb, good ice so moved together nearly all way, one half pitch in the narrows. Continued to the top of Mt Blanc du Tacul then descended the NW flank.

with Warren ?
robertporter ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Paul-Michael 21/Jul/07 AltLd dnf

From the Refuge des Cosmiques, poor weather. We were moving very slow & would have had difficulty finishing so bailed out wile retreat was still an easy option.

with Diccon Proctor, Paul Nurse
edek_w ?/Mar/04 -
Hidden ?/Sep/02 AltLd
Scotsken ?/Mar/02 -
Les Ross 01/Jul/00 AltLd
nige pacer ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
CMacD ??/1993 -
mattnuttall 17/Aug/92 AltLd O/S

Cable car to Midi late in day. Descended to camp below route on Mer de Glace. Started in dark – route about 6 pitches of brilliant ice. Finished with ascent of Mont Blanc Du Tacul 3977m Descent (some tricky ) to drop tent and back to Midi for last cable car down.

with Michel Mounier, Matthieu Mounier
djdavies 11/Aug/92 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/89 AltLd
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Votes cast 16
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
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