Hidden - Solo - 30/Sep/15
Cruisey day hit before the weather came in late afternoon. Two and a half hours up, moving together all the way with a changeover on the shoulder after the end of the snow and ice section. Alex led up to there on mostly good neve and ice (just occasional crusty snow). I led the top bit, taking a random mixed line to the right of the crest, about the same grade. Nine abs down, which took two hours (four to get to the Chere, four down the Chere and the last one down the approach snow slope and over the mild schrund). That was on 55m and 50m ropes, a bit of a stretch to get to one of the ab stations (though there was an intermediary) and over the schrund but it was just about enough - 2x 60m would be better but we were going lightweight. So nice to move with light packs after our heavily laden outing on the Noire! Glad we abbed off as just after we got down a big serac avalanche came down the Tacul normal route. Fortunately no one was caught up in it but the PGHM arrived within a few minutes to check it out and give a lift down to a team that was descending just above the slide. Scary!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/15 with Alex
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/15 with Misha Nepogodiev
The route was done for the first time in almost two months the day before... massively refreshed by the snow over the preceding days. Thin in places, and some pretty horrible granular snow offering not too much in the way of security, but long sections of hard blue ice/neve at the crux lower section. Rapped the chere couloir. Excellent long and varied route-ice, fast snow romping and easy mixed. Nice to tick an ice route after such a hot summer!
JHolland - Sep/15
clmacdonald - AltLd - Sep/15 with tskelhon
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/15
aerobiee - Lead O/S - 09/May/15 with Jen Stretton
Jenn_Stretton - 2nd - 09/May/15 with David Thexton
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/15
buffalo606 - 2015
Hidden - Lead - 02/Nov/14
Hidden - Lead - 04/Oct/14
Moved together. Dropped glove at top, rapped Cherie, found it at bottom!
Steve Wakeford - AltLd - 02/Oct/14 with Mikael Abrahamsson
morpcat - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/14 with wilkinscl
Led all pitches. Used two 50m ropes and only had 2 ice screws. Ended up doing most of directissime as I sought some rock to sling a belay.
davkeo - Lead O/S - Sep/14
An awesome route! Perfect neve the entire way!! Abseiled down cherre couloir to finish!
aljones91 - AltLd - 24/Aug/14 with Ben hester
Led all the climbing from the first belay above the bergschrund. Perfect snow conditions and lot of it for late August.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Anna Kennedy
annak - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Lee Harrison
Moved together apart from crux's, Scottish Grade 3 would say. awesome ice. great route.
peter.ravenscroft27 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Joe Mann
Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14 with Masa Sakano
Prior to this day, no track in Normal Route to Tacul was there due to the heavy snowfall, while we spotted several parties walk up on this day. We set off Col du Midi at 6:15am, finished the route at 12:00, summitted Tacul at 13:30, descended via Chère Couloir with a single 60-metres rope with 20-metres pull-cord, and arrived at Col du Midi at 19:20. The ice conditions were all right - Scottish grade III ish. Lesson: Light is not always right; you had better take another full-rope if the multi-pitch abseil is planned... Very valuable experience anyhow.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14 with Kyle
Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jul/14
joelevanschamonix - AltLd β - 06/Jul/14 with Tim Oliver
Great climb. Entire route was ice, swang alternate pitches.
kelly_426 - AltLd - Jul/14 with Luke Dudill
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Kelly, Luke, Tom Nichols
Fantastic ice and neve all the way! Great conditions at the moment! Bottom section has 70 degree ice and top has some tricky rock climbing and thin ice crux. Topped out and had enough time to climb Mont Blanc du Tacul as well.
MSchobitz - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14 with David Robinette
Gumery - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Grant
laurence_falconer - Jun/14 with joe innes
Hidden - Jun/14
fulton333 - Lead - May/14 with Johnny
Hidden - 2014
Hidden - 2014
Abed down the west face of the triangle instead of down chere which was a mistake as it's a long and half equipped decent.
wilkinscl - 2014
James Thacker - 2014
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Nov/13
Dougbart - AltLd - 01/Nov/13 with Iain
danJBA - AltLd - 02/Oct/13 with James Hoar
Kayan - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/13 with Dan Abbatt
Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/13
Long route when pitched, should of moved together as didn't have any technical sections
geoff.comley - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Vic Paterson
Moved together. Didn't quite get to summit of tacul- probably a bit high for first route of trip!
machars - AltLd - 23/Aug/13 with Bjorn Verduijn
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/13
Hidden - AltLd - 22/Aug/13
Hidden - AltLd - 17/Aug/13
Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/13
jimmatthews - AltLd - 15/Aug/13 with Chris Andrews
Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Jul/13
Bruce S - 2nd dnf - 19/Jul/13 with Joshua Willett
Moved together the whole way. Definitely feeling the lack of acclimatisation on the walk back up to the Midi!
Fultonius - Solo O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Emily Roo
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/13
thomaspomfrett - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Neil (Conville/Alps)
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13
Alex Munnery - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Luke Duckworth
paulmck - AltLd - 03/Jun/13
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/May/13
Hidden - Lead - 07/May/13
Jacob Forshaw - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13
Kris - Lead - Apr/13
Hidden - 2013
Hidden - 2013
Dave Searle - 2013
Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/12
Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/12
Perfect conditions! topped out on the Tacul and missed the last lift by 5 mins!
HarryB - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Al
Cold morning with fresh snow, belay after the first pitch in constant spindrift, boarderline powder avalanche, the coldest belay I've ever used... otherwise fantastic neve and weather nearly all the up! Unfortunately had to be down to catch the bus back to the uk so no time to gain the summit, abseiled down chere couloir.
trivett - AltLd - 07/Jul/12 with Mike Hood
Mike Hood - AltLd - 07/Jul/12 with trivett
Tdavy01 - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12
3rd cable car from Chamonix, at the base of the climb around 10:00. Took way too long because of lack of acclimatization (did it as a weekend trip from London). Hardest bit was not the 60 degree ice pitch, but mixed climbing at the very end of the climb - literally the last 10 meters or so.
pawelx - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Murilo
Murilo Lessa - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Pawel Zdziarski
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 11/Mar/12
sam_lav - 2012
sam_lav - 2012
nickcj - 30/Oct/11
Hidden - 11/Oct/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11
Hard ice + small boots = burst toes
robpartridge - Solo - 03/Aug/11
Phil Emerson - AltLd - Aug/11
descended in a white out, missed the last lift and ended up sleeping in the midi toilets.
np134 - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with C. Price
moved together and topped out on the tacul, nice route.
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11 with phil emerson
about 2 hours from the shrund. really enjoyable top gully even though the ice was a bit dodgy.
James S - Solo O/S - 14/Jul/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/11
All icy, very tiring. led all the pitches, first proper ice lead, ended up missing the car and spending the night in the Midi toilets. D'oh.
RKernan - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Niall Browne
Backed off just below steeper ice section, due to large spindrift avalanches making progress difficult and dangerous, abbed off peg belay then abalakov over the schrund. found the route easy, moving together for a section then pitching a section of stepper ice.
Petarghh - AltLd - 09/Jun/11 with cavemanjack
supos - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Lars Fjendbo
mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11
Great climbing, pitched the two steep ice sections but otherwise mostly moving together. The descent of the back was another matter... multiple absiels as night fell, back to the Cosmiques after midnight. Don't start this one at midday!
Rollo - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Mike
Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/11
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 10/Sep/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10
Chere Gully was looking intimidating and rocky, so bailed to this. Very icy, and a second alpine route for Rich and Carrie, so we ended up pitching most of it and running over time. Most belays off not-so-great ice screws, and the final long traverse across 50 degree ice had to be rather scarily moved together between dodgy screws. Not great conditions, but not retreatable in that condition either. Abbed down Chere Gully, which in retrospect would have been fine a nd a lot safer! Escape up to the Midi from the Cosmiques Hut the next day in 100 kph wind, snow and white-out was also... interesting!
andybuckley - AltLd - 29/Aug/10 with Carrie Bolton, Rich Kemp
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/10
tjmillen - Lead - Jul/10
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/10
Ice pitch in middle was a bit cheeky, as was the hanging belay on screws. Snow was decent. Continued up to MB du Tacul
Cardi - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Ryan
Climbed and skied back down the route.
Ben Briggs - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Brendan
benny_m - AltLd dnf - 23/Jun/10 with Ali Brown
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 23/Jun/10
Charlie Evans - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Unai
Hidden - 06/Apr/10
We did the first two ice pitches one afternoon as a warm up and to check out the Chere Couloir for the next day.
Hardonicus - 2nd dnf - 11/Mar/10 with Tom Woods
basvdploeg - 2010
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/09
Moved together with me at front. About hour and a half base to top. First alpine route. Very pleasant
JDSwain - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Tom Ripley
joese7en - AltLd O/S - Jul/09
BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with Neil Dowse, Sam Davies
sam820 - 2nd - 29/Jun/09 with Neil Dowse, Boris Korzh
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/08
The central line on the triangle, a great route. Got off the main snow face onto the ridge just as the sun hit, took about 3 hours in total. Simul climbed most of the way, only pitching the last exit chimney.
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Nick Donohue
Hidden - Lead dnf - Aug/08
Superb climb, good ice so moved together nearly all way, one half pitch in the narrows. Continued to the top of Mt Blanc du Tacul then descended the NW flank.
nickdonohue - Aug/08 with Warren ?
robertporter - Lead O/S - Jul/08
From the Refuge des Cosmiques, poor weather. We were moving very slow & would have had difficulty finishing so bailed out wile retreat was still an easy option.
Paul-Michael - AltLd dnf - 21/Jul/07 with Diccon Proctor, Paul Nurse
edek_w - Mar/04
Hidden - AltLd - Sep/02
Scotsken - Mar/02
Les Ross - AltLd - 01/Jul/00
nige pacer - Lead O/S - Aug/99
Hidden - AltLd - 1996
Hidden - 1995
CMacD - 1993
Cable car to Midi late in day. Descended to camp below route on Mer de Glace. Started in dark – route about 6 pitches of brilliant ice. Finished with ascent of Mont Blanc Du Tacul 3977m
Descent (some tricky ) to drop tent and back to Midi for last cable car down.
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/92 with Michel Mounier, Matthieu Mounier
djdavies - 2nd - 11/Aug/92
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/89