The Nose 5.14a
[Sleeping 'to the limit', 1 kb]31 pitches. VI 5.8 C2 to 5.14a - You choose

The world's most most well-known rock climb and one of the finest. As well as climbing a compelling feature and being superbly positioned, many of the individual pitches are magnificent pieces of climbing in isolation. In total, the route is justifiably the apex of many people's climbing aspirations. Most parties still take 3-5 days. The is a special experience. QUOTE Duncan Critchley first NIAD Brit. The current speed record is a scarcely believable 2:23:51 by Hans Florine and Alex Honnold beating the old record of 2hrs 36mins 45secs by Dean Potter & Sean Leary.
FFA Lynn Hill Sep/1993

Photo: Sleeping 'to the limit' © keith leonard
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This climb is in 98 logbooks, and on 187 wishlists.

Done first 5 and last 11 pitches, will come back for the legs and the boot!
ashtond6 - AltLd - 14/Jun/15

An awesome experience!
heg - AltLd - Jun/15 with Phil Leng

We did it! Possibly the slowest time since Warren Harding, 6 1/2 days (excluding fixing to Sickle). Masses of traffic, 5-6 hours to do first Stovelegs pitch. We were slow, but had a mountain of food and drink (2:1 hauling until 5th day) so kept plodding on, let all teams pass so that cost 2 - 4 hours a day. Nearly bailed twice, fatality above us stress, going too slow, but too slow for what? Aided vast majority as triple rack, and heavy haul rope made 5.9 feel like E3 on a long day. Shattered most days.
philhilo - AltLd - 25/May/15 with Helen E

Splitter-philiac - AltLd dog - May/15

3 nights and 4 days, second attempt after bailing from Dolt Tower the week before. Finished at 4/5 pm most days to great sunsets, comfy portaledge bivys and good music. We were passed at El cap tower by Libby and Mayan on their successful speed record ascent. First el cap route, unforgettable experience.
mrteale - AltLd - 27/Oct/14 with alook

alooker - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/14 with Ed

Just to sickle ledge this time. Will come back when it's not 96deg...!
Smelly Fox - AltLd dnf - 08/Oct/14 with Dan Wessel

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Oct/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 16/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Jun/14

David Sherratt - AltLd - 12/Jun/14

16 hours, turned into a bit of an epic when I fell off the pancake flake and smashed my foot, all good fun though!
jacobjacob - Lead - 30/May/14

4 days, 3 nights, quite a leisurely ascent with Bron. My first time up El Cap, not my last!
jacobjacob - Lead - 28/May/14

Bron H - AltLd - May/14

Too slow as a three and would have run out of water. Gutting.
Duncan Campbell - AltLd dnf - 20/Oct/13 with Ollie B, Bubbles

Just did a quick afternoon blast up to dolt
markalmack - AltLd dnf - 29/Sep/13 with Catalyn

Found the technical aid on Ps 1-4 engrossing & enjoyable. Fixed & returned but were too heavy, too inefficient, too slow. Bailed from Stovelegs after v cold night on portaledge. Starlit & shivering. Hard work getting down with ledge/pig dangling from our harnesses. Aggravated old injury, which plagued me for rest of trip. Govt shutdown then closed Park. Learned a lot, tho doubt I'll be back now. But still intend to complete the Nose: leisurely ascent of Staffs grit version. So plenty of jamming left to do!
Andy Clarke - AltLd dnf - 26/Sep/13 with Tim

Failed! Set of with food & water for 3 days (2 nights) but weren't moving fast enough to achieve that. Bivied on Dolt Tower then abbed off. Weather crapped out later in the day so glad we bailed when we did! Amazing position on an awesome lump of rock but need to be freeing more to make it fast & fun.
Neil Adams - AltLd dnf - 20/Sep/13 with Ross B

Only reached Dolt Tower. Bivvied after pitch 8 then rapped down following day
tomwheeler - AltLd dnf - 14/Sep/13 with bencoope

Didn't make it due to dropped gear and illness, amazing route though.
GuitarGenius92 - AltLd dnf - 07/Sep/13 with Fails, Murray

Absolutely incredible route.
jrobbings - Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jun/13

steve.warrington - Lead - 30/May/13 with Stuart Llewellyn, Nik Goile

Hidden - AltLd - 24/May/13

Two and a half days. Note to memory dont start at lunchtime...
MonkeyDawson - AltLd - May/13 with Simon Smith

Climbed over 6 days ground up. Some rain on 3rd day. Topped out in a blizzard.
uncontrollable - AltLd - 02/Apr/13 with Daj

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Nov/12

P1 only (this time)! Done as preparation for whole thing in 2013. Just one pitch of aiding up this beautiful cliff erased all the doubts and convinced me that sending the route would be worth every personal sacrifice it demanded. Get it done before I qualify for my bus pass.
Andy Clarke - Lead dnf - 27/Sep/12 with Tim

tim newton - AltLd - 22/Sep/12 with lee leatherbarrow

Notes in detail here;
ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd - 19/Aug/12 with Courty

Led to sickle, Sutty led to El Cap Tower, I led to the great roof, Sutty to the top of Changing Corners, me to the top. 3 long days including a pitch by head torch both of the first 2 nights. Bivvied at El Cap Tower and Camp 5. More detail on
M_W_Court - AltLd - 19/Aug/12 with ian sutcliffe

alan1234 - AltLd - Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/12

GOD - Solo - 2012

Fixed to sickle, hauled next day, no space to bivi on sickle so slept as base. Got stuck behind 4(!) parties in the stovelegs, bad weather came in, waited for several hours, weather got worse, had a minor epic bailing through the night/in the storm.
andrew sandercock - AltLd dnf - Oct/11 with Will Walker

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Sep/11

Aid practice. Half of pitch one, then Steve took over and finished it off. Have even more respect for the people that climb this now - more practice needed from where I'm standing.
kitkat78 - Lead dog - 22/Sep/11 with SteveM

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/11

Awesome. 3 nights. Vertical backpacking at it's finest.
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with max, Tom

Team of three. Fixed to sickle and hauled, two rest days then four days and three nights to send (Dolt, Camp IV and VI) Topped out with lots of water and food left, fire and water fight on top. Didn't lead many pitches, others happy to do it for me. Worst bit was night on cam IV for me. awqesome adventure... August is not necessarily too hot and there aren't as many climbers about. We had route to ourselves and were wearing jackets for quite a few pitches. Dolt to Camp IV if you're planning to do it like us is quite far and we climbed last pitches in dark, Max slept on ledge below camp IV.
tommytuffa - Aug/11 with edd, max

2 nights, El Cap Tower and around camp VI, but not in it.
mshorter - AltLd - 11/Jun/11 with dunc

Yes!Yes!Yes! This is the one. Fixed to Sickle and had an epic involving thunder storms, a family of bears and a friendly ranger. Had a plush bivy for many at El Cap Tower and a shit bivy for none around Camp V. I led the Stovelegs, the Texas Flake and the Great Roof to pick a few. YES!
sparkass - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Mike Shorter and Ry McHenry

"In a shove" 2 days with one uncomfortable bivy just below Camp 4! Climbed as a three with no hauling and 2 day packs. Absolutely amazing!!
dj_brigham05 - AltLd - 10/Jun/11 with Pete Abernethy, Thom Simmons

Fantastic experience, steep learning curve, one terrible bivi below camp 4, lots more suffering, cant wait to do it again some day!
pete87abs - AltLd - 10/Jun/11 with Thom Simmons, Dave Brigham

fixed in pouring rain until Sickle and had to wait several days for the weather to clear. Managed to get in 2 days till the top of Boot Flake and had to abseil off in order not to miss our flight back
uncontrollable - AltLd dnf - 26/Apr/11 with Daj

Ri - TR dog - 2011

Incredible! 3 nights. Lots of aiding and not enough freeing. But amazing route that i will never forget.
Ed Booth - AltLd - 27/Sep/10

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/10 with Ed Booth

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Sep/10

Took 4 days, what a route!!!
Bern - AltLd - Sep/10 with Richard White

In a day. Took about 21 hours, the top pitches after camp six were streaming water. Amazing day out.
dan gibson - AltLd - 13/May/10 with alex scola

went till Sickle, but where way to slow. bailed after an uncomfortable bivy.
uncontrollable - Lead dnf - 15/Apr/10 with phillip

16h 48min, 3 blocks. One big climbing goal ticked...
AdrianP - AltLd - 09/Oct/09 with Olli

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/09

Climbed as a three in three days. First big wall and so much fun. Second bivi at camp 6 was a bit uncomfortable, mind...
alaan - 16/Sep/09

First big wall. In a three. Hard work, but good fun. Some climbing in the dark... 3 days.
Oli - AltLd - 15/Sep/09 with Alan, Will

Started on the 9th, spent three nights on the face. Ended up teaming up with another group, as we did not have enough kit, they did not have enough water, and we had plenty of water, they had plenty of kit. Therefore climbed as a team of 5 with 2 haul bags, 2 porter ledges etc, lots of logistical rope work and rope techniques. Not as satisfying to climb as Half Dome, but still aweinspiring, and huge exposure especially when jugging up the ropes near the top.
hlegge - AltLd - 12/Sep/09 with Thomas Codrington

tcn_2002 - AltLd - 12/Sep/09 with Hamish Legge

first big wall ,lead and hauled all pitchs .4 days 3 nights valley to valley floor .
greenclimb - Lead - 03/Sep/09 with Sarah

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/09

ian bryant - AltLd dog - Sep/09 with adrian, dan

first 4 pitches
greenclimb - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/09 with Sarah

Hidden - Jun/09

5 days. El Cap Towers, Camp4, Camp6. Walked out to Upper Falls Trail. God that haul bag was Heavy. Bob walked out in his rock shoes - 8.5 miles !!!
Billg - AltLd - 19/May/09 with Bob Brewer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

alasdair19 - 2009

Ard' work
david morse - AltLd - Oct/08 with Rampant and Genera;

amazing route. nose in a day!!!!!!!
markalmack - AltLd - 20/Sep/08 with tom dixon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/08

Sort of 4 day ascent. 50h anniversary year. Sweet.
Oliver Sherman - AltLd - 15/Sep/08 with Kane Chandler

C coldwell-storry - AltLd - Sep/08 with Neil Chelton

Hidden - Lead dog - Aug/08

Hidden - Lead dog - Aug/08

Hidden - 2008

chrisbevins - AltLd - Jun/07

8th-12th October
SteveM - AltLd - 08/Oct/05 with Keith

keith leonard - Oct/05 with steve mead

stevebarratt - AltLd - Oct/05 with Karl Schimanski

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/04

What a lot of fun!
Jon Garside - AltLd - Oct/04

3 days
akhughes - AltLd O/S - Sep/04 with Steptoe

3 days
sadams - Lead - 14/Jul/04 with Hugh Cottom

Bern - AltLd dnf - 2003

3 days
K1 - AltLd - 06/Sep/98 with Kevin Davey

Hidden - Aug/98

Andy Hyslop - AltLd - 1994

We started early on 7/11/93 and got to the top around 2pm on 9/11/93. No fixing to Sickle Ledge, abbing and then starting the day after. We just went for it, alternate leads travelling light with the absolute minimum. Bivied on El Cap Tower (luxery) and Camp 5 (awful). It snowed the day after we finished!!
Mike Owen - 09/Nov/93 with Dave Hassall

Hidden - AltLd dog - 09/Jun/93

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 01/Jun/93

Andy Hyslop - AltLd - May/93 with John Topping

mike mo - AltLd - May/92 with simon mardel jon compson

keefe - 24/Aug/85

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Jun/84

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Oct/81

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Total votes cast 17
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Style of ascent
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Clean repeat