Traverse of the Grandes Jorasses D
[Grandes Jorasses 1 - Hotel Canzio Bivouac, 2 kb]2 pitches. Can start from either the Bocolatte Hut on the south face or the Torino Hut east of the Dent du Geant. Most parties begin from the Torino Hut.

Climb up under the Dent du Geant onto the Rochefort Ridge and to the Aig. du Rochefort. Continue to the Col des Jorasses via the Dome de Rochefort and the Calotte de Rochefort along snowy ridges, two, diagonal (towards the Col), abseils down to the Col des Jorasses (50 meter ropes were ok). Bivy at the Canzio Hut (blankets, not much else, room for 8).

From Col, climb up Pt. Young, staying on the northern side, two, wet/frozen 5a pitches mid way up before 2 more steep mixed pitches lead to the ridge. Keep to the north side and traverse to the summit of Pt. Young. Descend into a notch with an in situ belay and climb directly above the belay and then around on the south side heading towards just above the couloir that descends from the SW ridge of Pt. Marguerite. Rappel or down climb to start of couloir and then two pitches of II/III ice/snow lead to the SW ridge. Up another pitch into the notch between the summits of Pt. Marguerite.

Very exposed ridge descent leads to Pt. Helene, climb up a few pitches to summit and then descent again towards Pt. Croz past two gendarmes. Stay on the south side on rock and snow to Pt. Whymper. From here, follow snow slope down to col and then up again to Pt. Walker.

Descend via the normal route on the south face; the Pt. Whymper rock arete on the south face; from the Canzio Bivouac Hut down the south face (not recommended!); or from between Pt. Croz and Pt. Whymper down a desperate gully to the Glacier des Grandes Jorasses (subject to rock fall and poor rock)

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Photo: Grandes Jorasses 1 - Hotel Canzio Bivouac © TonyM
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This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on 28 wishlists.

From Torino. Rochefort Arete-Canzio bivi. 11hrs. Ridge was in OK condition but lacking a lot of snow, descending dent du rochefort was terrifyingly loose. Started the traverse GJ at 6am, we were in between Pointe Young and Marguerite when a few alarm bells rang (storm approaching, climbing a little slow, Marguerite baron of any snow looking really loose), returned and rapped from end of ridge of Point Young back to Canzio, sat out the hail storm(smug), rapped down south face on a 50m many many times, fine bar two anchors that were longer than 25m for some reason requiring some VERY delicate down climbing. Glacier in a thunder and lightening storm, mushy but crossable thanks to Ueli stecks tracks. High rivers to cross on the long descent. A truly classic GJ adventure.
ndraper1 - AltLd - 08/Aug/15

Hidden - 22/Aug/13

jcw - 2013

Did it after the colton mac.
Ally Baba - AltLd - 23/Sep/11 with Dave Searle

feilx - AltLd dnf - Sep/10 with Tom

Hidden - Solo - 23/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/07

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Floris

Great weather, we were too slow and had to descend from between Pt. Croz and Pt. Whymper without finishing climb. First day from Torino to Canzio was a 12 hour day; second day from Canzio to Bocolatte was 17 hours. The snow ridges on the first day were soft; on the second day the exposed descent to Pt. Helene and around the gendarmes to Pt. Croz was over Russian roulette rock. The only parts necessary to rope up for were perhaps the couple of pitches up the Pt. Young at the beginning of the second day. Will go back and finish the climb as it was the best of the summer, my idea of alpine climbing.
Yyonnx - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/05 with Scott Mac

Epic fail. Helicopter trip from the Canzio Bivi hut on the 15th.
andyinglis - AltLd dnf - 13/Aug/04 with Neil Adams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jonsa, sweenyt, Tony Ryland, MSchobitz, ashpreston, Swampi, ckmoffat, mathquirk, tommytuffa, Rob84, kleinej, punj, j.anstee, dougair, Mat J
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