On the Verge** E4 5c
[On the verge, solo Back Bowden Doors, Northumberland., 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
12m. Start as for Peak Technique but, from the ledge, rock onto the right arete and palm a way up this - better holds soon arrive. This was a bold ascent for its day and it still is. The escape route of a leap for the ledge to the right is not recommended. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A classic on-sight headgame up the right arete of the slab - easy, but committing. Swing left at the main break, then balance up the technical crux to get stood in the runnel (shallow cams), then the psychological crux reaching the obvious cam crack, before an arete romp to finish.

Photo: On the verge, solo Back Bowden Doors, Northumberland. © Russell Lovett
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 46 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Callum_Johnson - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/15 with Dayni_

Bottled the solo O/S. Must return once I get my lead-head back on
Dr Toph - TR O/S - 04/Mar/15 with Emily

Great fun route. Mostly in the head. Managed to get 5 pretty rock solid cams in the shallow break. Stuck to the slab which feels nicer than chickening out right.
stugreen75 - Lead RP - 20/Feb/15 with Robbie Phillips

On top rope clean before I finally chickened out blaming the damp conditions. Great fun though
stugreen75 - TR β - 12/Feb/15

Robbie_Phillips - 2015

climbalive - Lead β - 05/Sep/14 with mike norbury

Shea - Solo O/S - 17/Aug/14

Richard Fletcher - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/14 with Ben Watson

westaway - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

did it with a sore left knee.
nigel pearson - TR O/S - 16/Nov/13 with Robin

oliverk - TR - 30/Jun/13 with Tim E, Dan

Hidden - TR - 30/Jun/13

might have coped out slightly early, not entirely sure but either way it was pretty harrowing!
Ginger McGrath - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12 with dave brigham

went for the escape right
le t - Solo dnf - 02/Sep/12 with ross

Peter Reynolds - Solo - Mar/11 with tom o'shea

oliwarlow - Lead - 25/Aug/10 with Dave S

mattyork2 - TR - 25/Aug/10

first clean e4, on top rope
tomdude - TR O/S - 15/May/10 with oli

petegunn - Lead - 07/May/10 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

scott gibson - 2010

Steve Crowe - Lead - 2010

Really nice climbing! Very spicy!!!
dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/09 with Pete Abernethy

pete87abs - 2nd β - 23/Oct/09 with Dave Brigham

Cant really claim full tick, as sh*t it and used flake on right at top of slab. My footwork sux!
mgeek - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/09 with adam hughes

not sure if I can claim it, as was going for the onsight and in a very scared moment high on the slab I put a toe on the detached block to the right. still great and pretty scary route.
oliwarlow - Lead - 07/Sep/09 with Dave W

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09

Franco Cookson OLD - Solo O/S - Jun/09 with David Warburton

Very scary crux high above the gear!
buzby78 - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09

quite boldish route.
Ally Baba - Solo RP - 14/Mar/09 with R.Phillips

redjerry - TR O/S - Nov/08

Very hairy top half of the route on the blank slab arete even on top rope. You could swing into the chimney or across the slab. My first E4 success even on a top rope. Great little climb.
Skinny Kin - TR O/S - 31/Jul/08 with Ross

mshorter - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with alex

akhughes - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Greg B

ali_robb - Solo O/S - Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/03

very nice route
gypsy3006 - Lead O/S - Sep/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2001

Beardyman - 2000

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Solo - 21/Feb/99 with Al Willoner

John Pickles - TR β - 1998

Hidden - TR - 03/Apr/83

Hidden - TR - 11/Apr/82

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Sam Marks, theomoore, Stevie989, Max Clarke

Total votes cast 39
hard E50 of 13
E50 of 13
easy E50 of 13
hard E41 of 13
E46 of 13
easy E44 of 13
hard E31 of 13
E30 of 13
easy E31 of 13
hard 6a0 of 13
6a1 of 13
easy 6a3 of 13
hard 5c8 of 13
5c0 of 13
easy 5c1 of 13
hard 5b0 of 13
5b0 of 13
easy 5b0 of 13
3 Stars7 of 13
2 Stars6 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean RP