300m. 50-55 degree snow gully. 300 meters at about scottish II.

Approach from Col des Grands Montets about 400 meters along rock buttress on right. Skis or snowshoes may be in order for approach in winter although there is a trail usually packed down by skiers. Crossing bergshrund can be crux of climb.

Continue up and a little to the right to the rocks that lead up to the narrow gully. No in situ gear.
Up and over the snowy NE Ridge and descent via rappel (where there may be fixed slings) on the north face or follow the normal route back to the Col des Grands Montets. 2-4 hours (in good conditions).

H. Camere and Pierre Chevalier 23/Aug/1930

Roberttaylor 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

With ed, moved together.

Edvenables 25/Jul/14 -

First alpine climb. Set off after no sleep in the heavily lemon-scented grands montets loos. Good neve at first, snow became less solid as we gained height. Found the mixed sections very tricky.

with Robert Taylor
Hidden 05/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
chapmand 25/Mar/14 -


ndraper1 25/Mar/14 -


Pete Houghton 13/Mar/14 -

Super conditions for climbing it, the ski back down was a little chattery.

Hidden 23/Dec/13 2nd
Somerset swede basher 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Not in great condition, a spring route really, but still very climbable with a few loose rocky bands.

with Andy Kennedy
Alpandy 09/Aug/11 2nd
with Dom
Kris ?/May/11 -
Andy Hewison 19/Jan/11 2nd O/S
with Francois
maxots ?/Jan/11 -
quarryman ?/Jul/10 AltLd dnf
with Nic Bryceland
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
heist182 ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Jamie Tattersall; Wendy Couch
Misha 17/Jul/08 2nd

Rotten snow conditions and little visibility but a nice mixed section towards the top. 7 hours round trip from the Grands Montets due to difficult conditions. This should really be AD rather than II/III as mostly a snow climb.

Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd
Yyonnx ?/Mar/05 AltLd

Climb was better than we thought it might be. Approach via skis was not necessary as Dunc following down on foot was ready to start climbing before I was! And carrying the skis up and over not much fun either. 4 hours station to station

with Dunc
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Hidden, dan wisey, Hidden, Hidden
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