R.Head and J Grange, A Orset and J Perrod 13/Aug/1863
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
A long and brilliant day, with the summit to ourselves! Weather definitely felt a bit Scottish, perhaps it worked in our favour ;)
Deviated to top of Mont Maudit on the ascent.
Heatwave conditions so some quite serious sections up and around back of Mont Maudit. Exhausting but beautiful.
Sam Peterken, FelixPeterken
Soloed most of it before roping up towards the end. Enjoyed the whole thing, and perhaps especially the views and landscape around us. ~9 hours from/to Cosmiques Hut.
Ken B, Martin F
one axe and moved together a lot. More difficult/exposed than expected. Snow bridges collapsed, spinidrift on slopes. left hut 1.30 summit 7.30. With Ed.
In descent after kuffner and mont blanc
3hours 35minutes from Midi gate to summit, couple of hours on the way back.
Had to turn back due to bad weather :-/
|John Procter||18/Aug/13||AltLd O/S|
5 1/2hrs from hut to summit Quite icy at top of maudit
|Katherine Ross||09/Jul/12||2nd dnf||
Started the ascent of Mont Maudit but backed off due to bad snow conditions (avalanched 3 days later). Settled for summitting the Tacul.
Perfect conditions, 8 hrs from the Aiguille du Midi back to the Cosmiques Hut
|Sam Simpson||30/Aug/11||AltLd O/S||
Phil Booth, Stuart Air
2am start. 9 am summit. 4 30 midi. Long day but well worth it, dawn light on blanc from col du maudit was impressive.
2 AM start from cosmiques hut- summit at 9 AM.Back at Midi by 4:30- the final climb back to midi was hard !!Great route on a clear day- procession of head torches moving up at start was impressive. Maudit Col pitch a bottleneck if you leave to late-climbed on RHS next to fixed (snowed in) rope - felt secure using two tools and taking your time.
Reached Cote de Mur, approx 300m vertical from summit. Had to turn back due to partner's chest pains. In future would take the rightmost route on the climbing section of Maudit, to avoid the biffs, and bring two axes!
My 50th birthday!
Lew Fraser, Brendan Edwards
|Jonny M||12/Jul/10||2nd O/S|
4 days after arriving in Chamonix, totally unacclimatized.
found this much easier than the Gouter route starting from the Tete Rouse last year. 4 hours cosmiques - summmit. 8h 50m comiques - Nid a'igle.
D. Price, C. Price
Left Cosmiques hut late at 2.30am. Many guides and people inexperianced even in tying in and attaching crampons. Moved at steady pace but terrible back log at the final slope up to Col du Mont Maudit. As the sun rose, assessed the situation(about 40m ice climb)and decided to free climb to the side of the guided parties having difficulties with confidance and fatigue (clients not guides, obviously). Severe winds from the top all the way to summit of Mont Blanc. Reached summit around 7 hrs. Reversed route and again found difficulties descending Col du Mont Maudit due to parties ascending and descending, lots time wasted. Made steady progress to Aiguille du Midi cable car, dreading the final ascent up to the station, but found it ok when finally reached. Total time 14hrs. Very tired, some altitude affects and very happy to get back to tent and celebratory beer.
Continued after climbing the Contamine-Grisolle on the Tacul Triangle.
Set off really early after bivvying because we were moving too slow the previous day. Then got stuck in a storm so had to retreat.
Climbed 3 monts and skied n face.
Moved together to the basin underneath the slopes of Mont Maudit, but increasing winds and alot of snow meant we turned around about 4.30am.
Snow to the knees with wind slabs. Windy
Turned around in the flanks of Mont Maudit; 80cm of fresh powder and steep slopes/cornices don't mix. . . . .shame.
1st cable car up, descended via grand mulet.
Superb views but bitterly cold. Winds at 60/70kph. Lost touch with our other party in traffic jam at steep snow slope on Maudit shoulder, then spent next hours doggedly trying to catch up. Bumped into them (literally - head down gasping) a few metres from summit. Father and son Baron reunited! Not well acclimatised, had to borrow down jacket to ward off hypothermia (thanks Stewart) and suffered badly with pain from ribs broken in December during race back for last 'phrique... but a fantastic day out.
First on the route. Very icy (Scot III max) Got to summit for Sunrise. Descended Gouter route, which is shit..
|Somerset swede basher||10/Jul/06||AltLd O/S||
Greg Grace, Sean Jacobs, Martin Dixon
great to have stood on top of this awesome mountain! however ,, was extremely busy, and steep section on Maudit was dangerously over crowded! people very impatient to wait for others to climb it before they start is probably the cause of accidents!! Anyway! ,,, bivvied in Midi station started at 1, summit 9 ish , decended via Gouter Ridge, good long slog of a day!
Camped on Mer de Glace taught glacier skills and drills, ice axe arrests etc. set off up route after 2 days of training. Weather pants turned around on mont maudit due to conditions.
Cath, Tony and Friends
Jon Harvey and Mike Maben
(Late) winter ascent from the Cosmiques hut. Left hut 2am, reached summit 1pm. Tough icy conditions on Mont Maudit. Carried snowshoes but barely used. In crampons virtually all the way up. Descent by snowboard via Grands Mulets route.
Neil McNab, Damo
Ascended Gouter, descended via Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc de Tacul.
Great day out in fab weather. Unfortunately missed out on Mt Maudit due to Pete suffering from the altitude.
Turned back 30 mins from summit due to onset of AMS, Andrew and Phil went on to summit.
Andrew Melvin, Phil Nelson, Rob Gleeson
Went to the summits on the way up, descended the gouter route. Would recommend doing the summits on the way back though. We were off up first and then stuck in a line waiting for the col of Maudit trying to decide if we were going to have to catch a bloke pointy end first.
The route was better than the normal route, felt more like climbing something. I was in poor shape, had a very cold night camped on the Col. Don't know if it was that or poorly acclimatized but I felt like I had lead weights for shoes, certainly the slowest of the three, Mike and Jeroen having to tug me along. Jeroen skied down from the summit.
|Jon Pilling||?/Sep/03||2nd O/S||
This was never my idea,it was my mate Gary's but muggins here ended up doing it. The second day being a 14 hour slog with a decent via the Gouter standing on the summit of Mont Blanc was an experience never to be forgotten .
Azhi Michel Bordet
Tom Dunstan, ruth gibson
Climbed with Luc and Francois Ringeisen. Bizarre summit experience - someone had built an igloo and planted a plastic cactus outside it!