Three Monts route / Trois Monts* PD
[Approaching Maudit exit, 2 kb]Gaining in popularity over the Gouter Ridge route for ascending Mont Blanc. From the Cosmiques Hut up the normal route to the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul, cross the Col Maudit and up the steep snow slope to the Col du Mt. Maudit (helmet!). Go up the NW Ridge towards the summit of Mont Maudit and descend the SW Ridge. Up the slopes of Mur de la Cote and to the summit. 5-7 hours to the summit. Descend via same route or traverse Mont Blanc via the Gouter Route.
R.Head and J Grange, A Orset and J Perrod 13/Aug/1863

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Photo: Approaching Maudit exit © m296mux
View all 2 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 141 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Sep/14

Jordangask - 16/Sep/14 with Simon Marr

hp8g12 - AltLd - 16/Sep/14 with marr.simon

one axe and moved together a lot. More difficult/exposed than expected. Snow bridges collapsed, spinidrift on slopes. left hut 1.30 summit 7.30. With Ed.
leeoftroy - AltLd O/S - Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/14

In descent after kuffner and mont blanc
ndraper1 - 08/Aug/14

3hours 35minutes from Midi gate to summit, couple of hours on the way back.
fulton333 - Solo - Aug/14

Had to turn back due to bad weather :-/
Ly-Cilph - AltLd dnf - 27/Sep/13 with Till N

m296mux - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/13

wupert - 11/Aug/13 with Pete Walker

Hidden - 03/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/13

bigredsquirrel - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Steve Hutton

joedoherty - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/13 with Dave Holmes-Evans

walts4 - 2013

James Thacker - 2013

Dave Searle - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/12

5 1/2hrs from hut to summit Quite icy at top of maudit
Wils - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Steven Broadhurst

Started the ascent of Mont Maudit but backed off due to bad snow conditions (avalanched 3 days later). Settled for summitting the Tacul.
Katherine Ross - 2nd dnf - 09/Jul/12 with Becky Hampshire

Nigel Bond - Solo - 04/Jul/12 with Bern Hardman

Mike Hood - AltLd - 23/Jun/12

theomoore - Jun/12

Kris - Sep/11

Perfect conditions, 8 hrs from the Aiguille du Midi back to the Cosmiques Hut
AlasdairM - 31/Aug/11

Hidden - 31/Aug/11

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/11 with Phil Booth, Stuart Air

Hidden - 13/Aug/11

2am start. 9 am summit. 4 30 midi. Long day but well worth it, dawn light on blanc from col du maudit was impressive.
tompilgrem - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Dad

2 AM start from cosmiques hut- summit at 9 AM.Back at Midi by 4:30- the final climb back to midi was hard !!Great route on a clear day- procession of head torches moving up at start was impressive. Maudit Col pitch a bottleneck if you leave to late-climbed on RHS next to fixed (snowed in) rope - felt secure using two tools and taking your time.
bobpilgrem - AltLd - 02/Aug/11 with Bob/Tom

sam duckworth - 2nd - Aug/11

cmars89 - Aug/11

Cardi - 16/Jul/11 with Ryan

Jack Loftus - 16/Jul/11 with Nick

Hidden - 16/Jul/11

knicos - AltLd - 12/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - Jun/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

darcan - AltLd - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/10

Hidden - 15/Sep/10

norb - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/10

kelly_426 - Sep/10 with Sasha Doyle

Reached Cote de Mur, approx 300m vertical from summit. Had to turn back due to partner's chest pains. In future would take the rightmost route on the climbing section of Maudit, to avoid the biffs, and bring two axes!
CWMulcahy - AltLd dnf - 04/Aug/10

IanC - Aug/10

Hidden - 19/Jul/10

My 50th birthday!
robinsi197 - 19/Jul/10 with Nick

thetradlad - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/10 with Lew Fraser, Brendan Edwards

Jonny M - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Helen Tsai

GiveHerHelen - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Jon Moulding

cmaradcliffe - 01/Jul/10

4 days after arriving in Chamonix, totally unacclimatized.
liamo333 - Sent O/S - Jul/10 with Rob Noone

dannyboy83 - Jul/10 with Emily

tskelhon - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Max

Hidden - 29/Jun/10

ig248 - 2010

mickd - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09

found this much easier than the Gouter route starting from the Tete Rouse last year. 4 hours cosmiques - summmit. 8h 50m comiques - Nid a'igle.
vincentvega - Lead - 10/Sep/09 with danny robb

KatieG - 07/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/09

np134 - 21/Aug/09 with D. Price, C. Price

Ben HW - Lead - 20/Aug/09 with James Brownhill

Dave Latimer - AltLd - Aug/09

Neil Adams - Solo - 30/Jul/09

Left Cosmiques hut late at 2.30am. Many guides and people inexperianced even in tying in and attaching crampons. Moved at steady pace but terrible back log at the final slope up to Col du Mont Maudit. As the sun rose, assessed the situation(about 40m ice climb)and decided to free climb to the side of the guided parties having difficulties with confidance and fatigue (clients not guides, obviously). Severe winds from the top all the way to summit of Mont Blanc. Reached summit around 7 hrs. Reversed route and again found difficulties descending Col du Mont Maudit due to parties ascending and descending, lots time wasted. Made steady progress to Aiguille du Midi cable car, dreading the final ascent up to the station, but found it ok when finally reached. Total time 14hrs. Very tired, some altitude affects and very happy to get back to tent and celebratory beer.
darren hudson - AltLd - 30/Jul/09 with David Ford

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/09

Continued after climbing the Contamine-Grisolle on the Tacul Triangle.
mathquirk - 04/Jul/09 with Petter Zachrisson

stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/09 with James Monypenny

Set off really early after bivvying because we were moving too slow the previous day. Then got stuck in a storm so had to retreat.
mike4563 - AltLd dnf - Jul/09

scottbecker - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Mark Jarvie

Climbed 3 monts and skied n face.
Ben Briggs - Solo - Jun/09 with Brendan

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/08 with Andy Asaam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/08

Moved together to the basin underneath the slopes of Mont Maudit, but increasing winds and alot of snow meant we turned around about 4.30am.
markfairbank - Solo dnf - 05/Jul/08 with SteveyM

Snow to the knees with wind slabs. Windy
SamStrong - AltLd dnf - 05/Jul/08 with Steve Windross

Turned around in the flanks of Mont Maudit; 80cm of fresh powder and steep slopes/cornices don't mix. . . . .shame.
SteveMyatt - Solo dnf - 04/Jul/08 with Mark Fairbank

Hidden - 01/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/08

kevin k - Jul/08

1st cable car up, descended via grand mulet.
HarryB - Jun/08

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Bruveris - Sep/07

Hidden - 29/Jul/07

richw2k2 - Lead dnf - 29/Jul/07 with Monika

Moniawl - 2nd - 29/Jul/07 with rich

Superb views but bitterly cold. Winds at 60/70kph. Lost touch with our other party in traffic jam at steep snow slope on Maudit shoulder, then spent next hours doggedly trying to catch up. Bumped into them (literally - head down gasping) a few metres from summit. Father and son Baron reunited! Not well acclimatised, had to borrow down jacket to ward off hypothermia (thanks Stewart) and suffered badly with pain from ribs broken in December during race back for last 'phrique... but a fantastic day out.
Andy Clarke - Lead - 29/Jul/07 with StewartD, JoeB

First on the route. Very icy (Scot III max) Got to summit for Sunrise. Descended Gouter route, which is shit..
IanJackson - Solo O/S - 15/Jul/07

Bristoldave - 15/Jul/07 with douglas

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/07

dshortt - 27/Jul/06 with Sam Shortt

Hidden - Solo - 18/Jul/06

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/06 with Rich Siddle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/06

Hidden - 03/Jul/06

djking1983 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/06 with James Fry

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06

Hidden - Jul/06

great to have stood on top of this awesome mountain! however ,, was extremely busy, and steep section on Maudit was dangerously over crowded! people very impatient to wait for others to climb it before they start is probably the cause of accidents!! Anyway! ,,, bivvied in Midi station started at 1, summit 9 ish , decended via Gouter Ridge, good long slog of a day!
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Michael Maben

Camped on Mer de Glace taught glacier skills and drills, ice axe arrests etc. set off up route after 2 days of training. Weather pants turned around on mont maudit due to conditions.
John HW - AltLd - Jul/06 with Cath, Tony and Friends

dmoir - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Jon Harvey and Mike Maben

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 16/Jun/06

(Late) winter ascent from the Cosmiques hut. Left hut 2am, reached summit 1pm. Tough icy conditions on Mont Maudit. Carried snowshoes but barely used. In crampons virtually all the way up. Descent by snowboard via Grands Mulets route.
stevomcd - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/06 with Neil McNab, Damo

Hidden - 2006

jam_rich - 2006

JiveWeasel - 08/Sep/05 with Mrs Weasel

Hidden - Sep/05

Ascended Gouter, descended via Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc de Tacul.
kleinej - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Matt, Patrick

Great day out in fab weather. Unfortunately missed out on Mt Maudit due to Pete suffering from the altitude.
Stefan - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Pete Jenkins

paddygoodwin - 2nd - Aug/05 with Jason

Turned back 30 mins from summit due to onset of AMS, Andrew and Phil went on to summit.
Will Gordon - Lead - Aug/05 with Andrew Melvin, Phil Nelson, Rob Gleeson

Hidden - Jul/05

Went to the summits on the way up, descended the gouter route. Would recommend doing the summits on the way back though. We were off up first and then stuck in a line waiting for the col of Maudit trying to decide if we were going to have to catch a bloke pointy end first.
fizzy_elephant - Jun/05 with Rob Williams

The route was better than the normal route, felt more like climbing something. I was in poor shape, had a very cold night camped on the Col. Don't know if it was that or poorly acclimatized but I felt like I had lead weights for shoes, certainly the slowest of the three, Mike and Jeroen having to tug me along. Jeroen skied down from the summit.
Yyonnx - 10/Sep/04

kevburr - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/04 with Sandy Allan

featuresforfeet - Jul/04 with Psycho Dave

Guided ascent.
rich_greeny - 2nd - Jul/04

Jon Pilling - 2nd O/S - Sep/03 with steve prescott

Taylj1 - Aug/03 with George

This was never my idea,it was my mate Gary's but muggins here ended up doing it. The second day being a 14 hour slog with a decent via the Gouter standing on the summit of Mont Blanc was an experience never to be forgotten .
BigHell - 18/Jul/03 with Azhi Michel Bordet

edek_w - Jul/03

joe king - Jun/03 with steve petit

andyinglis - Jun/03 with Tom Dunstan, ruth gibson

Stuart Johnston - Lead - Jun/03

Tarquin - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

cem - Jun/99 with Jerry Boyd

stokesrees - AltLd - 1997 with Asmus Norveslet

Daniel Wrightson - Jul/96 with Stefano Rensi

Hidden - 1996

kristian - 12/Aug/93

chopin-smith - 30/Jun/93

Climbed with Luc and Francois Ringeisen. Bizarre summit experience - someone had built an igloo and planted a plastic cactus outside it!
Pete_Frost - Jul/90 with Luc Percival

garywalker147 - Solo - 1986

Hidden - Sep/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
OllieF, MSchobitz, splat2million, a13x, gavinpeach, Ragingpossum, Steve33, ckmoffat, dansmonkeytroubles, Only a hill, cmsg, PanzerHanzler, lewk_c

Voting
Total votes cast 37
hard PD+0 of 19
PD+0 of 19
easy PD+1 of 19
hard PD12 of 19
PD5 of 19
easy PD1 of 19
hard PD-0 of 19
PD-0 of 19
easy PD-0 of 19
3 Stars6 of 18
2 Stars10 of 18
1 Star1 of 18
0 Stars1 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
dnf