Gaining in popularity over the Gouter Ridge route for ascending Mont Blanc.

From the Cosmiques Hut up the normal route to the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul, cross the Col Maudit and up the steep snow slope to the Col du Mt. Maudit (helmet!). Go up the NW Ridge towards the summit of Mont Maudit and descend the SW Ridge. Up the slopes of Mur de la Cote and to the summit. 5-7 hours to the summit. Descend via same route or traverse Mont Blanc via the Gouter Route.

R.Head and J Grange, A Orset and J Perrod 13/Aug/1863

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Zoe Cockburn 28/Aug -

A long and brilliant day, with the summit to ourselves! Weather definitely felt a bit Scottish, perhaps it worked in our favour ;)

Tim_C7 27/Aug -
Oo 27/Aug -

Deviated to top of Mont Maudit on the ascent.

AndrewP 12/Jul Lead O/S

Heatwave conditions so some quite serious sections up and around back of Mont Maudit. Exhausting but beautiful.

Sam Peterken, FelixPeterken
Jamie Johnston 10/Jul AltLd
Hugo Scrimgeour
olekemi 04/Jul AltLd O/S

Soloed most of it before roping up towards the end. Enjoyed the whole thing, and perhaps especially the views and landscape around us. ~9 hours from/to Cosmiques Hut.

Ken B, Martin F
Chrismoore94 29/Jun -
joelevanschamonix 10/Apr -
Tim Oliver
SkiMonkey2012 ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/14 AltLd
Jordangask 16/Sep/14 -
hp8g12 16/Sep/14 AltLd
leeoftroy ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

one axe and moved together a lot. More difficult/exposed than expected. Snow bridges collapsed, spinidrift on slopes. left hut 1.30 summit 7.30. With Ed.

Hidden 08/Aug/14 AltLd
ndraper1 08/Aug/14 -

In descent after kuffner and mont blanc

fulton333 ?/Aug/14 Solo

3hours 35minutes from Midi gate to summit, couple of hours on the way back.

Ly-Cilph 27/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

Had to turn back due to bad weather :-/

John Procter 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 -
prwalker 11/Aug/13 -
Hidden 03/Aug/13 -
jamestaylor92 ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Ben Rigby
bigredsquirrel 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Steve Hutton
joedoherty 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Dave Holmes-Evans
walts4 ??/2013 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
Dave Searle ??/2013 -
Hidden 11/Aug/12 AltLd
Wils 09/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

5 1/2hrs from hut to summit Quite icy at top of maudit

Katherine Ross 09/Jul/12 2nd dnf

Started the ascent of Mont Maudit but backed off due to bad snow conditions (avalanched 3 days later). Settled for summitting the Tacul.

Nigel Bond 04/Jul/12 Solo
Bern Hardman
Mike Hood 23/Jun/12 AltLd
theomoore ?/Jun/12 -
Kris ?/Sep/11 -
AlasdairM 31/Aug/11 -

Perfect conditions, 8 hrs from the Aiguille du Midi back to the Cosmiques Hut

Hidden 31/Aug/11 -
Sam Simpson 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Phil Booth, Stuart Air
Hidden 13/Aug/11 -
tompilgrem 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

2am start. 9 am summit. 4 30 midi. Long day but well worth it, dawn light on blanc from col du maudit was impressive.

bobpilgrem 02/Aug/11 AltLd

2 AM start from cosmiques hut- summit at 9 AM.Back at Midi by 4:30- the final climb back to midi was hard !!Great route on a clear day- procession of head torches moving up at start was impressive. Maudit Col pitch a bottleneck if you leave to late-climbed on RHS next to fixed (snowed in) rope - felt secure using two tools and taking your time.

sam duckworth ?/Aug/11 2nd
cmars89 ?/Aug/11 -
Hidden ?/Aug/11 -
Cardi 16/Jul/11 -
Jack Loftus 16/Jul/11 -
Hidden 16/Jul/11 -
knicos 12/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
darcan ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden 15/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/10 -
norb 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd
kelly_426 ?/Sep/10 -
Sasha Doyle
CWMulcahy 04/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

Reached Cote de Mur, approx 300m vertical from summit. Had to turn back due to partner's chest pains. In future would take the rightmost route on the climbing section of Maudit, to avoid the biffs, and bring two axes!

IanC ?/Aug/10 -
QuentinSu ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/10 -
robinsi197 19/Jul/10 -

My 50th birthday!

thetradlad 19/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Lew Fraser, Brendan Edwards
Jonny M 12/Jul/10 2nd O/S
GiveHerHelen 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S
DigitalSteak 01/Jul/10 -
liamo333 ?/Jul/10 Sent O/S

4 days after arriving in Chamonix, totally unacclimatized.

Rob Noone
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/10 -
tskelhon 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/10 -
ig248 ??/2010 -
mickd ??/2010 -
Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
vincentvega 10/Sep/09 Lead

found this much easier than the Gouter route starting from the Tete Rouse last year. 4 hours cosmiques - summmit. 8h 50m comiques - Nid a'igle.

danny robb
KatieG 07/Sep/09 -
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 2nd O/S
np134 21/Aug/09 -
D. Price, C. Price
Ben HW 20/Aug/09 Lead
James Brownhill
Dave Latimer ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Neil Adams 30/Jul/09 Solo
darren hudson 30/Jul/09 AltLd

Left Cosmiques hut late at 2.30am. Many guides and people inexperianced even in tying in and attaching crampons. Moved at steady pace but terrible back log at the final slope up to Col du Mont Maudit. As the sun rose, assessed the situation(about 40m ice climb)and decided to free climb to the side of the guided parties having difficulties with confidance and fatigue (clients not guides, obviously). Severe winds from the top all the way to summit of Mont Blanc. Reached summit around 7 hrs. Reversed route and again found difficulties descending Col du Mont Maudit due to parties ascending and descending, lots time wasted. Made steady progress to Aiguille du Midi cable car, dreading the final ascent up to the station, but found it ok when finally reached. Total time 14hrs. Very tired, some altitude affects and very happy to get back to tent and celebratory beer.

David Ford
Hidden 27/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
mathquirk 04/Jul/09 -

Continued after climbing the Contamine-Grisolle on the Tacul Triangle.

Petter Zachrisson
stuart34 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
James Monypenny
mike4563 ?/Jul/09 AltLd dnf

Set off really early after bivvying because we were moving too slow the previous day. Then got stuck in a storm so had to retreat.

Hidden 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Ben Briggs ?/Jun/09 Solo

Climbed 3 monts and skied n face.

DavidR 18/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
markfairbank 05/Jul/08 Solo dnf

Moved together to the basin underneath the slopes of Mont Maudit, but increasing winds and alot of snow meant we turned around about 4.30am.

SamStrong 05/Jul/08 AltLd dnf

Snow to the knees with wind slabs. Windy

Steve Windross
SteveMyatt 04/Jul/08 Solo dnf

Turned around in the flanks of Mont Maudit; 80cm of fresh powder and steep slopes/cornices don't mix. . . . .shame.

Mark Fairbank
Hidden 01/Jul/08 -
Hidden 01/Jul/08 2nd
kevin k ?/Jul/08 -
HarryB ?/Jun/08 -

1st cable car up, descended via grand mulet.

AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
Bruveris ?/Sep/07 -
Hidden 29/Jul/07 -
richw2k2 29/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Moniawl 29/Jul/07 2nd
Andy Clarke 29/Jul/07 Lead

Superb views but bitterly cold. Winds at 60/70kph. Lost touch with our other party in traffic jam at steep snow slope on Maudit shoulder, then spent next hours doggedly trying to catch up. Bumped into them (literally - head down gasping) a few metres from summit. Father and son Baron reunited! Not well acclimatised, had to borrow down jacket to ward off hypothermia (thanks Stewart) and suffered badly with pain from ribs broken in December during race back for last 'phrique... but a fantastic day out.

StewartD, JoeB
IanJackson 15/Jul/07 Solo O/S

First on the route. Very icy (Scot III max) Got to summit for Sunrise. Descended Gouter route, which is shit..

Bristoldave 15/Jul/07 -
Hidden 15/Jul/07 AltLd
dshortt 27/Jul/06 -
Sam Shortt
Hidden 18/Jul/06 Solo
Somerset swede basher 10/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Rich Siddle
Hidden 03/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/06 -
djking1983 03/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
NickST ?/Jul/06 -
Greg Grace, Sean Jacobs, Martin Dixon
JonHarvey ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

great to have stood on top of this awesome mountain! however ,, was extremely busy, and steep section on Maudit was dangerously over crowded! people very impatient to wait for others to climb it before they start is probably the cause of accidents!! Anyway! ,,, bivvied in Midi station started at 1, summit 9 ish , decended via Gouter Ridge, good long slog of a day!

Michael Maben
John HW ?/Jul/06 AltLd

Camped on Mer de Glace taught glacier skills and drills, ice axe arrests etc. set off up route after 2 days of training. Weather pants turned around on mont maudit due to conditions.

Cath, Tony and Friends
dmoir ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Jon Harvey and Mike Maben
Hidden 16/Jun/06 2nd dnf
stevomcd 20/Apr/06 2nd O/S

(Late) winter ascent from the Cosmiques hut. Left hut 2am, reached summit 1pm. Tough icy conditions on Mont Maudit. Carried snowshoes but barely used. In crampons virtually all the way up. Descent by snowboard via Grands Mulets route.

Neil McNab, Damo
Hidden ??/2006 -
jam_rich ??/2006 -
JiveWeasel 08/Sep/05 -
Hidden ?/Sep/05 -
kleinej ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Ascended Gouter, descended via Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc de Tacul.

Matt, Patrick
Stefan ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Great day out in fab weather. Unfortunately missed out on Mt Maudit due to Pete suffering from the altitude.

Pete Jenkins
paddygoodwin ?/Aug/05 2nd
Will Gordon ?/Aug/05 Lead

Turned back 30 mins from summit due to onset of AMS, Andrew and Phil went on to summit.

Andrew Melvin, Phil Nelson, Rob Gleeson
Hidden ?/Jul/05 -
fizzy_elephant ?/Jun/05 -

Went to the summits on the way up, descended the gouter route. Would recommend doing the summits on the way back though. We were off up first and then stuck in a line waiting for the col of Maudit trying to decide if we were going to have to catch a bloke pointy end first.

Rob Williams
Yyonnx 10/Sep/04 -

The route was better than the normal route, felt more like climbing something. I was in poor shape, had a very cold night camped on the Col. Don't know if it was that or poorly acclimatized but I felt like I had lead weights for shoes, certainly the slowest of the three, Mike and Jeroen having to tug me along. Jeroen skied down from the summit.

MoWalker3 01/Aug/04 -
kevburr 31/Jul/04 2nd O/S
Sandy Allan
featuresforfeet ?/Jul/04 -
Psycho Dave
rich_greeny ?/Jul/04 2nd

Guided ascent.

Jon Pilling ?/Sep/03 2nd O/S
steve prescott
Taylj1 ?/Aug/03 -
BigHell 18/Jul/03 -

This was never my idea,it was my mate Gary's but muggins here ended up doing it. The second day being a 14 hour slog with a decent via the Gouter standing on the summit of Mont Blanc was an experience never to be forgotten .

Azhi Michel Bordet
edek_w ?/Jul/03 -
joe king ?/Jun/03 -
steve petit
andyinglis ?/Jun/03 -
Tom Dunstan, ruth gibson
Stuart Johnston ?/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
cem ?/Jun/99 -
Jerry Boyd
stokesrees ??/1997 AltLd
Asmus Norveslet
Daniel Wrightson ?/Jul/96 -
Stefano Rensi
Hidden ??/1996 -
kristian 12/Aug/93 -
chopin-smith 30/Jun/93 -
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/90 -

Climbed with Luc and Francois Ringeisen. Bizarre summit experience - someone had built an igloo and planted a plastic cactus outside it!

Luc Percival
garywalker147 ??/1986 Solo
Hidden ?/Sep/79 -
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Votes cast 22
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