Rockfax Description
16m. One of the easier hard classics of the crag - a great climb, devious but logical and interesting throughout. Start up the easy ramp then gain the hanging groove and climb it boldly to the break under the roof. Traverse right - plenty of gear but pumpy - to the slot in the roof and finish with a typical Northumbrian exit. A Left-hand Exit is a cop-out at E3 5b and a Direct Finish is a harrowing E5 5c but misses out the best part of the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A dramatic route that is considerably better than it's crabwise shuffling would suggest. Climb the bold shallow scoop, the fingery and varied break, and final gutbusting pull over with continuous interest. Take anything from Zeros and Peenuts to large cams!

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket.

salix 16/Aug Lead β

Been a route I've wanted to do for ages. Fantastic. No beta on the traverse, but had watched a pal on left hand exit, and walked up to the top to look at finishing holds. Getting out over the lip was a touch and go experience.

with Frazer
HaddRoots 01/Aug Lead RP
with Witold
donwito 01/Aug 2nd rpt
with Iain
Callum_Johnson 23/Mar Lead O/S

Great fun, great route. One I've been wanting to do for a long time.

with Dayni_
D.Russell 28/Feb Lead O/S

First E4 onsight...

with Mike
HaddRoots 23/Nov/14 2nd rpt
donwito 23/Nov/14 Lead RP

Amazing route!

with Iain
HaddRoots 25/Oct/14 2nd dnf
Julian Cooper 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Stuart Knott
Ross Kirkland 05/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with David Kirkland
samwillo 24/Mar/14 Lead
malinkvist 23/Mar/14 2nd dog
Smelly Fox 19/Nov/13 2nd


Shea 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really good climbing, cleaning it by myself was fun! Glad I didn't lose the top out after all that effort, had some magnificent rope drag

with Ieuan
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd dog
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Trevera 13/Apr/13 Lead

first E4 onsight. Pumpy but no single hard move

Adrianw 06/Apr/13 2nd
LRob 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Nice architectural line.

Adamski1986 02/Mar/13 2nd dnf

Need to work on my crossovers to get the traverse cleanly, Didnt have the strength to pull through it today!

with Richard Gage
Mike Goldthorp ?/Mar/13 Sent
Ri ??/2013 Lead O/S
Matt Harle 24/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Matt Gibbs
Ginger McGrath 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S

fantastic route, first E4 onsight and a very memorable experience

tyler836 11/Nov/12 2nd dog
with Graham McGrath
robertmichaeladams 13/Oct/12 Lead

2nd go from the ground - top out defeated the 1st attempt

with Andy H
a_hein 13/Oct/12 2nd
ianjfsutcliffe 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Patch
Adam Lincoln 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Meg
stugreen75 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Fantastic route. Pumpy but doable. Finish was a bit of a grovel.

with dominic jeff
PeteH 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S

So chuffed to get this, haven't fought so hard and not fallen off in a while! Climbed first section up to the break up and down about six times before committing to the reach right, and took two goes at the top-out - evil.

Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead β
dj_brigham05 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Waited for years to onsight this. Great climbing. Can't believe I have shyed away from this for so long but managed to convince myself to climb On the Verge. Mega classic!

NDD 18/Mar/12 Lead β

Pre placed Gear

roberto18 22/Oct/11 Lead

Great climb, and a lot scarier than I expected

with ewan russell
Ewan Russell 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S

ended up pulling on berts ropes after faffing for ages on the top out and him being in the way slightly. not sure if I would have flashed it though.

Hidden 13/Sep/11 2nd dnf
phil64 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S


oliwarlow 25/Aug/10 Lead dog

got everything except my left leg over the lip before being sucked back.... would be worth cleaning the lichen from the topout for next time

with Dave S, Ian
odox 25/Aug/10 2nd dog

I'll be back.

mattyork2 25/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Got up to the break but could not find any gear that I truste in - thought I had already done the scary bit?! Downclimbed to the floor. Think some offset small nuts might do the trick next time.

petegunn 07/May/10 Lead

Tired arms on the final move ment that i sort of rolled onto the top sideways!

with Davina
Hidden 07/May/10 2nd dog
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
westaway 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
graham lawrie ??/2010 Lead O/S
markalmack 04/Oct/09 Lead β
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead RP
buzby78 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Absolute classic!

with Al
jeffmcd56 ??/2009 Lead O/S
mshorter 14/Jun/08 Lead β
with alex
akhughes 08/May/08 Lead rpt

blow onsight when I slid back off the top when I'd aready pulled over. GUTTED!!!!

Hidden ?/Dec/07 TR O/S
Chad123 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Excellent climbing, pumpy but has good rests along the way. Crux is probably the very last move!

with Viv
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/06 2nd O/S
jim robertson ??/2006 -
ali_robb ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
mgeek ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Graham Doig
whispering nic ??/2004 2nd
with malc davies
Roget ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with jim, baccy, jon
gypsy3006 ?/Jun/02 Lead

superb classic , worth the years of practice :-)

Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/99 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/98 Lead O/S
dashed ?/Apr/98 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
shark ??/1995 Lead β
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Apr/94 Lead
mattnuttall 07/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with Chris H (SCUM)_
Rich Kirby 07/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Evoman ?/Apr/92 Solo
with Andy
FATBOYFAT ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Dave Henderson
Steve Crowe 04/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with KM
Dave Musgrove 28/Aug/89 Lead O/S

Superb pitch!

with Kim Greenald
andybirtwistle 29/Jun/88 Lead
with Steve Roberts
Bruce Kerr 30/Jun/87 2nd
with Perric Crellin
auldscotal ??/1984 2nd dnf

Failed on last move over the lip at the top - just ran out of puff! Didn't have a guidebook so no idea of the grade - Des cruised it.

with Des Rubens
Hidden 03/Apr/83 TR
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gabe Oliver, Hidden, Hidden, theomoore, Sam Marks, Stevie989, Keith Swainson, Hidden, Dervey, Adamski1986, Spooner2709, Hidden, tgeh, hobblingfool, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, odox, rob askew, clarky, Hidden, David Bulley, mattyork2, Kirriemuir, 80s pete, Hidden, fennerz, Hidden, danwaters, andymoin, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 18
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set