Haute Savoie > Aiguille du Peigne >
 
Papillons Ridge*** D+

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Vaucher Route (SW Face) >>
[Sion cruising allong the Papillons Ridge, D, en route to the Aiguille du Peigne, before the storm hit., 2 kb]12 pitches. Classic route, good for a half-day's outting. Can be pretty crowded at times. Small rack of Friends and nuts required. Some in situ gear on the hardest sections. Does not top out so will have to combine with other routes if the summit is what you are after. Enjoy the "letterbox" pitch!
K Gurekian, L Pez and A Subut 10/Sep/1948

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Photo: Sion cruising allong the Papillons Ridge, D, en route to the Aiguille du Peigne, before the storm hit. © Tris Fox
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 234 logbooks, and on 40 wishlists.

matty123 - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/14

jogle03 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/14

Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/14 with Masa Sakano

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jul/14

Great route, went back to finish it off in glorious weather. Led the crux.
cmaradcliffe - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/14

Ran out of lift days so walked up from Valley. moved together for most of it and were back in the valley by 2pm including running down from the half way. Jake took the gear on the lift both ways. good effort to Tom and Anna, quality route.
benkelsey - AltLd β - 29/Jun/14 with Jake Shaw

Up to half way before hail stopped play.
cmaradcliffe - AltLd dnf - 28/Jun/14 with Graeme Barr

Bailed halfway.
machars - AltLd dnf - 28/Jun/14 with Charley

Ace route, moved together for quite a bit, Ben probably led 2/3's. Easily made the lift back down!
JakeWShaw - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Ben Kelsey

Got first lift to plan. Walked in a bit too far round to the left and ended up doing a bolted pitch to gain the ridge again. Great climbing all the way, got slowed down by a party ahead at the first 5c move, it took them an hour! Anna then led it quickly afterwards and I led the letterbox and the 5b at the top. 16 pitches and topped out about 19:00. Then we must have missed the descent because we came down a gully onto the Pelerins glacier, it was 7 abs and aload of sketchy downclimbing between them, obviously some else had done this before though because there was tat all the way. The second to last ab was terrifying because it was off a tiny, slopey, spike about 2-3 inches high! and then when I pulled the ropes they ran fine and the knot came down, but then the end wedged solid and eventually had to chop it and do the final ab on 1 rope. Descended the glacier and finally got into bivi bags at plan about 1am. By the time we had got up, walked down, bought some food and got the bus home, it was 29 hours from campsite to campsite! A really great route, was really fun and a real alpine adventure!
Teappleby - AltLd - 26/Jun/14 with Anna Duckett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14

http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/06/27/arete-des-papillons-aiguille-du-peigne/
joelevanschamonix - 2nd β - 25/Jun/14 with Emily roo

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/13

letterbox pitch particularily gd
simondunf - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/13 with caspar

Started late, was not long before the big boots came off, Fletch lead letterbox pitch very nicely. Finished in the dark at 9pm then abbed down, finding the right descent route after some scrambling around and got to the glacier (solid) at midnight, a warm starry night helped the atmos.
mrmattwright - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Adrian Fletcher

guy757 - 23/Aug/13 with Vic

bullwinkle - AltLd rpt - 22/Aug/13 with Danny

Sublime route, great day out. Mainly pretty easy with a few steps of English 4b / 4c, and one pitch that felt 5a and a very short pull of 5b.
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Simon Frost, Dave Garry

frost - AltLd - 14/Aug/13 with Adam, D Garry

After Lépidoptères, so only top couple of pitches, but led the amazing pitch up the slab on the big tower. Lovely stuff.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Billy

Palindrome - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/13

Ben Briggs - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Toby

Jack00 - AltLd O/S - Aug/13 with Edd Carrigan

Ed carrigan - Aug/13

Vincej - 2nd - Aug/13 with Cyril

Only people on the route.
planetmarshall - 2nd - 17/Jul/13

spragglerocks - AltLd - 16/Jul/13 with Ben

Batt - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Si Coldrick

French free in big boots
SteveM - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with Tobs

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/13

Gumery - 01/Jul/13 with Forshaw

NoelleG - 2nd - 01/Jul/13 with gde

Great climb to start off a first alpine trip, would've been better if we hadn't had missed the lift and had to walk all the way back down to chamonix but still had a great day.
nicole almond - 2nd - 16/Jun/13 with Dad

Nice intro for Nicole and nice intro to altitude. Would have been good to catch the lift off but a meal at the plan hut and a walk down in the setting sun made it more bearable.
Dave Almond - AltLd - 16/Jun/13 with Nicole Almond

Tobias at Home - 2013

walts4 - 2013

mux - AltLd O/S - 2013 with A Crook, frost

James Thacker - 2013

jcw - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Sep/12

Got half way along, rap of due to storm
JKBowers - AltLd - 20/Aug/12 with Dilan Pathmajothy

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/12

Led every pitch .The crux is badly polished but handily full of tat. Learned about overtaking policys. Whoever climbs the fastest....Wins!
mickd - Lead - Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/12

Ollie B - 26/Jul/12 with T.Livinstone

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Ollie Burrows

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/12

Les Ross - Lead - 19/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/12

Hidden - 09/Jun/12

Laramadness - 2012

Then followed normal route to the summit...
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Steve Seale

gowla - AltLd - 01/Sep/11 with adam booth

Great climb lots of people
gingernick - AltLd - Sep/11 with Dan the Man

Jack Doyle - 21/Aug/11 with Derek

Jack Doyle - 21/Aug/11 with Derek

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

The Mountain Goat - 2nd - 15/Aug/11 with Dom Sellers

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Jon Miles

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11

r_findlay - AltLd - 04/Aug/11 with stu_buchan43

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/11

started at the right of the foot up bolted route, which is not the start and a bit harder. very nice climb especially the flakes at the top. Ab out but don't pack the ropes as there's a walk then another ab. We learnt the hard way! Camped at the lac as missed the last cable car.
darren hudson - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with David Ford

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Alex Marchant, Stuart Air, Ally Hurst

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/11

mark schramm - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with tom m

Adi Hooper - AltLd - 12/Jul/11 with Roger Ward

tommoulds - AltLd - 12/Jul/11 with Schramm

Julli - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Noora S.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11

RKernan - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Conor Gilmour

d_meacher - Lead - Jul/11 with Gill Byrne

theo.mooney - Jul/11

JRSB1991 - Jul/11

chrissloan84 - Lead - 2011 with paul

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - Aug/10

tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall

johnmctighe - 2nd - 16/Jul/10 with Stephan

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jul/10

Neil D - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Boriz Korzh

Nice route. At the end of the route, we carried on to the top of Aid du Paigne along the North Ridge, however had to turn back about 50m below the summit as bad weather was coming in.
BorisVBlade - AltLd - 02/Jul/10

robinsi197 - AltLd - Jul/10 with Nick

Hidden - Jun/10

Hidden - 2010

alancash100 - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/09

inuklm - 23/Aug/09 with Dave Gent

Henrik - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/09 with Josef

Great little climb. started late and ended up spending the night on the ledges under the Ticket.
david0811 - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Mark Reid

davidgent - 10/Aug/09 with Kunal

Kyuzo - Aug/09

I found it tricky, but several French grannies in wheelchairs seemed to skate up it...
oldgrey - Aug/09 with Virgil Scott

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/09

Phil Jennings - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/09 with Tom Nichols

Very enjoyable climbing on a lovely sunny day. Made it easy to put up with waiting at the belays while the over-equipped (peg hammers!) team in front of us dogged their way up. Too easy unfortunately - got to the top of the traditional descent and realised we wouldn't make the last 'phrique down from Plan de l'Aiguille. This was after having shaken our heads at the teams taking the easy (and quick) way out down the bolted routes on the Peigne slabs. Traditional descent turned out to be a chossy couloir followed by an unexpected snow slope. Not easy to negotiate in our trainers. Hadn't bothered with crampons or axes. Under-equipped maybe? Hmmm. Time for a rather uncomfortable "seated glissade." Two very foot and arse sore alpinists finally made it back to car around 10 pm.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/09 with Rob

Hidden - 25/Jul/09

Moved together for most part. Seconded a couple of pitches ...
bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Eero & Bart

Letterbox pitch with a rucksack was an "interesting experience". Felt a lot harder than HS. Given V in the Alpine Club guide.
Caspar - 2nd - 16/Jul/09 with Neil + James

Pat-H - 2nd - 14/Jul/09

Glyn - 04/Jul/09 with David Fountain and Jonny

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/09

Rained on descent
davefount - AltLd - Jul/09 with Glyn and Jonny

+ James Waldron
Neil D - AltLd rpt - Jul/09 with Caspian James

planned on going to the summit but cold beers won the day.
Tobias at Home - 13/Jun/09

Missed the last 'pherique again!
mathquirk - Lead - 25/May/09 with Babu Blatt

brockers - AltLd O/S - 2009 with CarlZ

Mathijs - 2009

Started off at the next buttress and did a few pitches of more interesting climbing first before meeting the route. Learned some lessons on overtaking here. A bit too crowded for my tastes.
reima - AltLd - 2009 with Nora, Niamh

Hurray for Blizzard Bags!
andysroom - Lead dnf - 2009

tim20 - 2009

StuDoig - AltLd - 11/Sep/08 with Olly Thomas

featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/08 with Tobias at Home

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/08

Matthallinan - AltLd - 03/Aug/08

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 01/Aug/08 with Quiet Ian

JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/08

Mark Walter - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Steve Becwith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/08

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Lee Bonner

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/07 with sam read

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead - Aug/07

tom.e - 31/Jul/07 with Tom Powell

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/07

From Chaminix made good time. V
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/07 with Paul Nurse

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/07

Mr Powly - Jul/07 with Tom Everett

Ian JL - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/07

matthias13 - AltLd - 23/Jun/07 with JamesA

Bristoldave - AltLd - 2007 with douglas

Thin 5+ move halfway up can be frigged as necessary using guides' tat; letterbox pitch a solid UK VS. Superb.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 09/Sep/06 with Mike Weighleigh

Nicos - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/06 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/06

Brian Birtle - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/06 with Jon

dave657 - Sep/06 with mel_1

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/06

Ross Barnes - AltLd - 29/Jul/06 with Andy I

Kyuzo - AltLd - Jul/06

mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Josh Bakker-Dyos

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/06 with ross barnes

Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/06 with g taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/06

hal - AltLd - Jun/06

ashpreston - 2006

edek_w - Sep/05

Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/05 with Sion Brocklehurst

chrissloan84 - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Sim

feilx - Jul/05 with Dan (welsh)

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Will Barbour

Hidden - Jul/05

A nice outting, especially the crux "letterbox" pitch. Actually, the first pitch ended with a tight chimney that was also good fun. The descent sucked as it started to rain and Philipe almost died as what we were using for a rap anchor came tumbling down on top of him! Somehow he escaped with only major bruises and we down-climbed the rest of the wet, slippery slopes having missed the last car down, continued on down to the valley.
Yyonnx - AltLd - 20/Jun/05 with Tom Fralich

Hidden - 20/Jun/05

Hidden - Lead rpt - Jul/04

Pitched. Backed off at the midway couloir
SteveM - AltLd - 04/Jun/04 with Tobs

Stone Muppet - 2004

tom.e - 2nd O/S - Aug/03

220bpm - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Dave

Backed off down a grotty couloir but made it to the last lift with time to spare!
SteveM - AltLd dnf - 04/Jun/03 with Tobs

liz j - 2nd - Sep/02 with neil brodie

Mark Salter - AltLd - 18/Aug/02 with Chris Shorrock

TobyA - AltLd O/S - Aug/01 with Stuart Adams

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Aug/01 with helen gibson

ian bryant - Lead dnf - 14/Jun/01 with walter

Climbster - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/99 with UTMC

pickn - AltLd O/S - Jul/99

bladderedagain - AltLd - Jul/99

DerwentDiluted - AltLd - Aug/98 with Tim Stain

daveyb - AltLd - 20/Sep/97

Guy - Aug/97

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/97

Done with a guide in the 1990's
francois - 2nd - 1995

tjekel - 1995

craig h - AltLd - Aug/94 with Jim Mellor

Hidden - AltLd - 31/May/94

alkira - 07/Aug/93 with bruce goodlad

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Aug/93

Hidden - Solo - Jul/93

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/91

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - Jul/91 with Sam Martin

Loads of fun. One pitch overhung but the holds were like a stack of dinner plates - perfect.
Pete_Frost - AltLd - Jul/91

Budge - AltLd O/S - 1991 with Richard Teed

Hidden - Lead - Sep/90

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/90

AndrewP - AltLd - Aug/89

Got overtaken by a guide and his party, they clipped our gear on the route and used our belays... I wasn't entirely happy with the situation, but have since learned that British manners have a place only in Britain and posh American Restaurants. In the Alps, no one waits for anyone: deal with it! Great Day out though!
BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/88 with Guy Summers

Alps - not my cup of tea at all!
steve taylor - Aug/88 with Dave Gilkes

auld al - 2nd O/S - Aug/88

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/88 with steve williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/88

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/88

1 hour
John Marsland - Aug/87 with Dave Soles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/86

Guy - Aug/86

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 22/Jul/86 with Grahame Nicoll

with Colin Lennox
ill_bill - 11/Jul/86

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/86

In big boots - duh! Should have been in rock shoes. Walked all way back down to Chamonix after minor row with John.
eroica64 - AltLd - 11/Sep/85 with John Graeme

Used two 8 foot slings for pro.
John Marsland - Solo - 12/Aug/85

Hidden - Aug/85

andy tetsill - AltLd - Aug/83 with Richard

Hidden - Aug/82

John Marsland - 1982 with Andy Veveris and Chris Broad

mark-abz - AltLd - Aug/80 with ?

Richard Weller - Aug/80 with Richard White

Hidden - Aug/80

Hidden - AltLd - 1980

Hidden - Sep/79

beaumap - Lead - Jul/79 with Stan Tanner

leland stamper - AltLd - 1979 with Hugh Grandfield

Hidden - Solo - 1979

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/78

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/78

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/78

Bolt Phobia - Lead rpt - 04/Aug/75

Steve Woollard - Lead - 15/Aug/74 with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - Jul/74 with Steve Woollard

mikej - AltLd - Aug/69 with Martin Wragg

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 36
hard TD-0 of 10
TD-0 of 10
easy TD-3 of 10
hard D+0 of 10
D+1 of 10
easy D+0 of 10
hard D4 of 10
D1 of 10
easy D1 of 10
3 Stars21 of 26
2 Stars4 of 26
1 Star1 of 26
0 Stars0 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 234 (1.3%)
Lead29 of 234 (12.4%)
Followed24 of 234 (10.3%)
Alt Leads129 of 234 (55.1%)
Unknown49 of 234 (20.9%)

'Climbed'144 of 234 (61.5%)
clean O/S77 of 234 (32.9%)
clean β2 of 234 (0.9%)
clean rpt6 of 234 (2.6%)
dnf5 of 234 (2.1%)