12 pitches. Classic route, good for a half-day's outting. Can be pretty crowded at times. Small rack of Friends and nuts required. Some in situ gear on the hardest sections. Does not top out so will have to combine with other routes if the summit is what you are after. Enjoy the "letterbox" pitch!

K Gurekian, L Pez and A Subut 10/Sep/1948

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Adam_42 06/Sep AltLd O/S

After a previously aborted attempt due to running out of time, we scrambled the first section to start at the letterbox pitch. Swung leads to the summit with Dave taking the awkward step across and me landing the crux after some confusion on the finish of a previous pitch. Amazing climbing and a great day out, only slightly ruined by the long walk down after missing the final lift.

benclimbing 30/Aug AltLd O/S

Would be nails in big boots! Happy to have rock shoes on crux pitch. Wish we had chalk as well! No need for crampons or axe as the descent was dry. We had double 60m ropes but a single would have been adequate. Felt a shame to not go to the summit but there just wasn't long enough if going from the first lift to the last lift

with graham boistelle
JessWilliams 23/Aug 2nd dnf
Ken Applegate 11/Aug AltLd

Had intentions of climbing the Contamine-Vaucher, but miscommunication the night before meant that we only had a single 60m rope between us, which wouldn't have allowed abseiling the face, so this was our consolation route, and a good value consolation route it was! Good fun all the way.

with Andy Barker
Andrew Barker 11/Aug AltLd O/S

Really good climbing with some worryingly large hollow flakes. Tough in big boots.

EllieWoods 07/Aug AltLd O/S
with pete belfield
chapmand 28/Jul AltLd dnf

3 teams ahead moving slowly theough the crux. So we abbed off.

hlegge 23/Jul AltLd dnf

started route too low accidentally and got lost on the 2nd pillar thinking we were on 4th pillar and crux pitch. ended up in an orangy overhung corner which was far harder than what we should have been on (a 4b pitch round the corner). ended up running out of time and bailed.

with Dom Pearce
HP9 17/Jul AltLd

Lead the crux pitch and the first chimney. 1st class rock

with Ales Cesen
buzby78 12/Jul AltLd O/S
with Jess
Petarghh 07/Jul AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul AltLd O/S
Brucemacrosson ?/Jul AltLd

D 4c trad

with Luke Smithwick
Hidden ?/Jul AltLd dnf
Chrismoore94 26/Jun AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun AltLd O/S
davkeo 18/Jun AltLd rpt

3hrs. Block leads. Cracking day. Bum slide down snow slope on descent.

with Niall Hedderman
davkeo 11/Jun AltLd O/S

Brilliant day in fantastic surroundings and blue sky weather. Easy climbing with a nice crux pitch.

with Ken Doyle
Hugh Simons 06/Jun AltLd

Amazing day on stunning rock. Very pleasant climbing in great positions.

with Daniel Grierson
calumhicks 06/Jun Lead

Really engrossing climbing and fantastic situations! The letterbox pitch was superb

with Adam Harris
Euan Todd 05/Jun AltLd dnf

Went off route at the 2nd tower, ended up on a pitch way too hard for the route. Shame, as the climbing was great!

with Ali
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
pow22 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S

With Rick.

Matthew Martin Wsm 05/Sep/14 2nd

fantastic climb done in rock shoes, moved together on the easy pitches, wonderful positions moves and exposure, defo worth 3 stars, so pleased! done climb in 4 hours!

with dave kenyon
Clay C 05/Sep/14 AltLd

Finished last pitch in a storm. Cold and wet descent.

with George
Hidden 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Verity, Hannah
67hours 05/Sep/14 AltLd
with Clay
MrRiley 02/Sep/14 AltLd

A fantastic route in stunning weather! Very sociable with many teams on it. Stayed in the plan de l'aiguille hut after which was excellent

with Richard Hines
Little AndyH 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Rickrick 02/Sep/14 -
alexm198 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed in approach shoes, moved together save for about 3 pitches.

with James Thompson
Hidden 02/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Timothy Miller 17/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/14 -
Hidden 10/Aug/14 AltLd
ndraper1 01/Aug/14 AltLd

Moved together early on then pitched the majority of the harder parts. Found it exposed! Cruz felt pretty stiff as well but all in all some great climbing and a true mountaineering adventure winding up and around gendarmes. Wanted to continue to the peigne but got stuck in traffic. Would have been too slow anyway its longer than you think!

matty123 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
jogle03 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Mr. K 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Started in moving together, but eventually we got stuck behind parties, and pitched till the end since. I lead the 2 cruxes free. On our descent we missed the best line and ended up abseiling for (additional) 2 pitches immediately before reaching the snow-field. Nice little route! I have reliased if one wants to summit after this in a day, they have to be pretty fast.

with Kyle
Pete_Frost 16/Jul/14 AltLd

Repeat ascent but in big boots this time: totally different proposition - very strenuous! Top tip: instead of climbing the wall on the 3rd tower, drop down to the right and climb the flakes instead it's a jugfest and huge fun!

with Ash Fusiarski
Hidden 03/Jul/14 AltLd
DigitalSteak 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, went back to finish it off in glorious weather. Led the crux.

Nemmie ?/Jul/14 -
benkelsey 29/Jun/14 AltLd β

Ran out of lift days so walked up from Valley. moved together for most of it and were back in the valley by 2pm including running down from the half way. Jake took the gear on the lift both ways. good effort to Tom and Anna, quality route.

DigitalSteak 28/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Up to half way before hail stopped play.

machars 28/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Bailed halfway.

with Charley
JakeWShaw 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Ace route, moved together for quite a bit, Ben probably led 2/3's. Easily made the lift back down!

Teappleby 26/Jun/14 AltLd

Got first lift to plan. Walked in a bit too far round to the left and ended up doing a bolted pitch to gain the ridge again. Great climbing all the way, got slowed down by a party ahead at the first 5c move, it took them an hour! Anna then led it quickly afterwards and I led the letterbox and the 5b at the top. 16 pitches and topped out about 19:00. Then we must have missed the descent because we came down a gully onto the Pelerins glacier, it was 7 abs and aload of sketchy downclimbing between them, obviously some else had done this before though because there was tat all the way. The second to last ab was terrifying because it was off a tiny, slopey, spike about 2-3 inches high! and then when I pulled the ropes they ran fine and the knot came down, but then the end wedged solid and eventually had to chop it and do the final ab on 1 rope. Descended the glacier and finally got into bivi bags at plan about 1am. By the time we had got up, walked down, bought some food and got the bus home, it was 29 hours from campsite to campsite! A really great route, was really fun and a real alpine adventure!

Anna duckett 26/Jun/14 AltLd
with Tom
Hidden 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
joelevanschamonix 25/Jun/14 2nd β


with Emily roo
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
simondunf 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

letterbox pitch particularily gd

with caspar
mrmattwright 05/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Started late, was not long before the big boots came off, Fletch lead letterbox pitch very nicely. Finished in the dark at 9pm then abbed down, finding the right descent route after some scrambling around and got to the glacier (solid) at midnight, a warm starry night helped the atmos.

with Adrian Fletcher
guy757 23/Aug/13 -
with Vic
bullwinkle 22/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
with Danny
A Crook 14/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Sublime route, great day out. Mainly pretty easy with a few steps of English 4b / 4c, and one pitch that felt 5a and a very short pull of 5b.

frost 14/Aug/13 AltLd
with Adam, D Garry
Tom Last 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

After Lépidoptères, so only top couple of pitches, but led the amazing pitch up the slab on the big tower. Lovely stuff.

with Billy
Palindrome 06/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Ben Briggs 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Toby
Jack00 ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Edd Carrigan
Ed carrigan ?/Aug/13 -
Vincej ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Cyril
jimmatthews 28/Jul/13 AltLd
with Joe Toller
planetmarshall 17/Jul/13 2nd

Only people on the route.

spragglerocks 16/Jul/13 AltLd
with Ben
Batt 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
SteveM 14/Jul/13 AltLd

French free in big boots

with Tobs
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead
Gumery 01/Jul/13 -
with Forshaw
NoelleG 01/Jul/13 2nd
with gde
Nicole Almond 16/Jun/13 2nd

Great climb to start off a first alpine trip, would've been better if we hadn't had missed the lift and had to walk all the way back down to chamonix but still had a great day.

with Dad
Dave Almond 16/Jun/13 AltLd

Nice intro for Nicole and nice intro to altitude. Would have been good to catch the lift off but a meal at the plan hut and a walk down in the setting sun made it more bearable.

Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
walts4 ??/2013 -
mux ??/2013 AltLd O/S
James Thacker ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden 17/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/12 AltLd
JKBowers 20/Aug/12 AltLd

Got half way along, rap of due to storm

with Dilan Pathmajothy
Hidden 17/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/12 2nd
mickd ?/Aug/12 Lead

Led every pitch .The crux is badly polished but handily full of tat. Learned about overtaking policys. Whoever climbs the fastest....Wins!

Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Ollie B 26/Jul/12 -
with T.Livinstone
Tom Livingstone 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/12 AltLd
Les Ross 19/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/12 -
Adam Booth 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Then followed normal route to the summit...

gowla 01/Sep/11 AltLd
with adam booth
gingernick ?/Sep/11 AltLd

Great climb lots of people

Jack Doyle 21/Aug/11 -
with Derek
Jack Doyle 21/Aug/11 -
with Derek
Hidden 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
The Mountain Goat 15/Aug/11 2nd
Somerset swede basher 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
r_findlay 04/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 04/Aug/11 AltLd
darren hudson 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

started at the right of the foot up bolted route, which is not the start and a bit harder. very nice climb especially the flakes at the top. Ab out but don't pack the ropes as there's a walk then another ab. We learnt the hard way! Camped at the lac as missed the last cable car.

with David Ford
Sam Simpson ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
mark schramm 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with tom m
Adi Hooper 12/Jul/11 AltLd
with Roger Ward
tommoulds 12/Jul/11 AltLd
with Schramm
Julli 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Noora S.
Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
RKernan 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Conor Gilmour
d_meacher ?/Jul/11 Lead
with Gill Byrne
theo.mooney ?/Jul/11 -
JRSB1991 ?/Jul/11 -
chrissloan84 ??/2011 Lead
with paul
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -

First route of a trip - nice but felt harder than many years ago ...

with Geoff Thomas
Hidden 29/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
tumbling wizard ?/Aug/10 -
with andrew marshall
johnmctighe 16/Jul/10 2nd
with Stephan
Hidden 09/Jul/10 Lead
Neil D 02/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
BorisVBlade 02/Jul/10 AltLd

Nice route. At the end of the route, we carried on to the top of Aid du Paigne along the North Ridge, however had to turn back about 50m below the summit as bad weather was coming in.

robinsi197 ?/Jul/10 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
alancash100 ??/2010 AltLd
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Hidden 26/Aug/09 2nd
inuklm 23/Aug/09 -
with Dave Gent
Henrik 17/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Josef
david0811 13/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Great little climb. started late and ended up spending the night on the ledges under the Ticket.

with Mark Reid
davidgent 10/Aug/09 -
with Kunal
Kyuzo ?/Aug/09 -
oldgrey ?/Aug/09 -

I found it tricky, but several French grannies in wheelchairs seemed to skate up it...

with Virgil Scott
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Phil Jennings 28/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Andy Clarke 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Very enjoyable climbing on a lovely sunny day. Made it easy to put up with waiting at the belays while the over-equipped (peg hammers!) team in front of us dogged their way up. Too easy unfortunately - got to the top of the traditional descent and realised we wouldn't make the last 'phrique down from Plan de l'Aiguille. This was after having shaken our heads at the teams taking the easy (and quick) way out down the bolted routes on the Peigne slabs. Traditional descent turned out to be a chossy couloir followed by an unexpected snow slope. Not easy to negotiate in our trainers. Hadn't bothered with crampons or axes. Under-equipped maybe? Hmmm. Time for a rather uncomfortable "seated glissade." Two very foot and arse sore alpinists finally made it back to car around 10 pm.

with Rob
Hidden 25/Jul/09 -
bullwinkle 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Moved together for most part. Seconded a couple of pitches ...

with Eero & Bart
Hidden 16/Jul/09 2nd
Pat-H 14/Jul/09 2nd
Glyn 04/Jul/09 -
with David Fountain and Jonny
Hidden 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S
davefount ?/Jul/09 AltLd

Rained on descent

with Glyn and Jonny
Neil D ?/Jul/09 AltLd rpt

+ James Waldron

Tobias at Home 13/Jun/09 -

planned on going to the summit but cold beers won the day.

mathquirk 25/May/09 Lead

Missed the last 'pherique again!

with Babu Blatt
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Mathijs ??/2009 -
reima ??/2009 AltLd

Started off at the next buttress and did a few pitches of more interesting climbing first before meeting the route. Learned some lessons on overtaking here. A bit too crowded for my tastes.

with Nora, Niamh
andysroom ??/2009 Lead dnf

Hurray for Blizzard Bags!

tim20 ??/2009 -
Hidden 11/Sep/08 AltLd
featuresforfeet 31/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Tobias at Home
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Matthallinan 03/Aug/08 AltLd
MoWalker3 01/Aug/08 AltLd
with Quiet Ian
JonHarvey ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
Mark Walter ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Becwith
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
dan gibson 27/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with sam read
Hidden 11/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 06/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead
tom.e 31/Jul/07 -
LakesWinter 29/Jul/07 Lead

Missed last 2 pitches due to running out of time. Superb rock.

with Chris
Paul-Michael 17/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

From Chaminix made good time. V

with Paul Nurse
Hidden 16/Jul/07 AltLd
Mr Powly ?/Jul/07 -
Ian JL ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/07 AltLd rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/07 AltLd
matt0759 23/Jun/07 AltLd
with JamesA
Bristoldave ??/2007 AltLd
with douglas
Peter Metcalfe 09/Sep/06 AltLd

Thin 5+ move halfway up can be frigged as necessary using guides' tat; letterbox pitch a solid UK VS. Superb.

with Mike Weighleigh
Nicos 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/06 AltLd
Brian Birtle 03/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Jon
Hidden ?/Sep/06 -
Hidden 31/Aug/06 AltLd
Ross Barnes 29/Jul/06 AltLd
with Andy I
Kyuzo ?/Jul/06 AltLd
mattyork2 ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Josh Bakker-Dyos
andyinglis 29/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Stuart Johnston 22/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
hal ?/Jun/06 AltLd
ashpreston ??/2006 -
edek_w ?/Sep/05 -
Smelly Fox 13/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Sion Brocklehurst
chrissloan84 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Sim
feilx ?/Jul/05 -
with Dan (welsh)
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Will Barbour
Hidden ?/Jul/05 -
Yyonnx 20/Jun/05 AltLd

A nice outting, especially the crux "letterbox" pitch. Actually, the first pitch ended with a tight chimney that was also good fun. The descent sucked as it started to rain and Philipe almost died as what we were using for a rap anchor came tumbling down on top of him! Somehow he escaped with only major bruises and we down-climbed the rest of the wet, slippery slopes having missed the last car down, continued on down to the valley.

with Tom Fralich
Hidden 20/Jun/05 -
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead rpt
SteveM 04/Jun/04 AltLd

Pitched. Backed off at the midway couloir

with Tobs
LardClimber ?/Jun/04 -
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
tom.e ?/Aug/03 2nd O/S
220bpm ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Dave
SteveM 04/Jun/03 AltLd dnf

Backed off down a grotty couloir but made it to the last lift with time to spare!

with Tobs
liz j ?/Sep/02 2nd
with neil brodie
Mark Salter 18/Aug/02 AltLd
with Chris Shorrock
plain kitten ?/Jul/02 Lead


TobyA ?/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Adams
dan gibson ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
ian bryant 14/Jun/01 Lead dnf
with walter
prcleary ??/2000 -
Climbster 10/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with UTMC
nige pacer ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
bladderedagain ?/Jul/99 AltLd
DerwentDiluted ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with Tim Stain
daveyb 20/Sep/97 AltLd
Guy ?/Aug/97 -
epic ed ?/Aug/97 Lead

Missed last car down and had to walk back to Cham in the dark with no torch Early lesson learnt.

Hidden ?/Jul/97 AltLd
Laramadness 26/Jul/96 -
with Steve Munton
francois ??/1995 2nd

Done with a guide in the 1990's

tjekel ??/1995 -
craig h ?/Aug/94 AltLd
with Jim Mellor
Hidden ?/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/94 AltLd
alkira 07/Aug/93 -
with bruce goodlad
Hidden 03/Aug/93 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/93 Solo
Hidden 26/Aug/91 Lead
Brian Rodgers ?/Jul/91 AltLd O/S
with Sam Martin
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd

Loads of fun. One pitch overhung but the holds were like a stack of dinner plates - perfect.

Tim Sparrow ?/Jul/91 -

Gorgeous day!

with Chris D
Hidden ?/Jul/91 -
Budge ??/1991 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Hidden ?/Sep/90 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/90 AltLd O/S
AndrewP ?/Aug/89 AltLd
BigHairyIan 06/Aug/88 AltLd O/S

Got overtaken by a guide and his party, they clipped our gear on the route and used our belays... I wasn't entirely happy with the situation, but have since learned that British manners have a place only in Britain and posh American Restaurants. In the Alps, no one waits for anyone: deal with it! Great Day out though!

steve taylor ?/Aug/88 -

Alps - not my cup of tea at all!

with Dave Gilkes
auld al ?/Aug/88 2nd O/S
michael burrows 25/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
Hidden 20/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/88 AltLd
John Marsland ?/Aug/87 -

1 hour

with Dave Soles
Hidden 02/Aug/86 AltLd O/S
Guy ?/Aug/86 -
Bruce Kerr 22/Jul/86 AltLd
with Grahame Nicoll
ill_bill 11/Jul/86 -

with Colin Lennox

Hidden ?/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
eroica64 11/Sep/85 AltLd

In big boots - duh! Should have been in rock shoes. Walked all way back down to Chamonix after minor row with John.

with John Graeme
John Marsland 12/Aug/85 Solo

Used two 8 foot slings for pro.

Hidden ?/Aug/85 -
Tony Ryland 13/Jul/85 AltLd

Rick fell near top Had to ab off

andy tetsill ?/Aug/83 AltLd
with Richard
Nevil ?/Aug/82 -
with Jon
John Marsland ??/1982 -
with Andy Veveris and Chris Broad
Lone Rider ??/1982 Solo O/S
mark-abz ?/Aug/80 AltLd
with ?
Richard Weller ?/Aug/80 -
with Richard White
Nevil ?/Aug/80 -
with Simon
Rob Davies ?/Aug/80 Lead

Climbed in reasonable time. Descent in dry, sunny conditions was easy.

with Mike Papworth
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Nevil ?/Sep/79 -
with Steve
Andy Say ?/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
beaumap ?/Jul/79 Lead
with Stan Tanner
leland stamper ??/1979 AltLd
with Hugh Grandfield
Hidden ??/1979 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/78 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/78 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/78 AltLd
Mark Kemball ?/Aug/76 AltLd
with Bill Wheeler
Bolt Phobia 04/Aug/75 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Aug/74 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Aug/74 AltLd dnf

Abandoned after a few pitches due to over-crowding - 18 people on one ledge

with Joseph Cullen (ICMC)
Bolt Phobia ?/Jul/74 2nd
with Steve Woollard
mikej ?/Aug/69 AltLd
with Martin Wragg
uphillnow ??/1966 Lead
with Paul Clark
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Votes cast 18
Votes cast 33
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