Rockfax Description
E1. An intricate line that tackles this pillar at a relatively amenable grade by using bits of other routes. It requires a full trad rack.1) 5+, 45m. As for Edge of Time.2) 5+, 25m. Ascend the wall right to the first shallow groove. Up this then left to another groove. Follow the crack to a large flake and block belays.3) 4+, 20m. Climb the wall above the short wall (old peg) to a good ledge and abseil bolts.4) 6a, 25m. As for pitch 3 of Edge of Time.5) 4+, 25m. Climb leftwards to reach a crack. Follow this to the base of the long corner of Vía Julia.6) 5, 25m. As for Vía Julia. © Rockfax
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Tales of Wisdom
Grade: 6a ***
(Castellets)