North Face*** D
[Central ice gulley, 2 kb]350m. The North Face is about 400 m high (10 to 12 pitches) with ice continuously up to 60° with an average of 52°.
In the middle the face narrows to an icy couloir and then opens again for the upper slopes. It is here that it steepens up to 60°.
It is best to stay at the right side close to the rocks to get good belay's.
The summit is normally reached by going left of the rocks and joining the normal route over the south-east ridge

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Photo: Central ice gulley © mathquirk
View all 25 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 142 logbooks, and on 87 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/15

robgixer - AltLd - 28/Mar/15 with lee harrison

Lower face was holding some soft snow, which made going slow, but the ice in the couloir was good and the upper face neve was excellent. Continued to the top.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/15 with Rob Goodman

joelevanschamonix - 2015

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Oct/14

Dougbart - 30/Oct/14 with Iain

winter hill1 - 24/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Sep/14

wilkinscl - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/14 with Edward shelly

As two ropes of two. Clagged in at the top and the route around the back to the summit wasn't tracked in and immediately obvious, which led to some interesting route-finding decisions.
morpcat - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/14 with wilkinscl

Gumery - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/14 with Caroline

Pitched middle, went left up gully to final snowfield. Wicked conditions. ��
CallumSmith - AltLd - 22/Aug/14

JHolland - 21/Aug/14

Tom Campbell - 21/Aug/14

David Staples - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Glorious

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Aug/14

Timothy Miller - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/14

First alpine north face, fantastic route! Lots of ice which made the climbing great fun.
alastairbegley - AltLd - 12/Aug/14 with Richard Nicholson

Slick - AltLd - 12/Aug/14 with Alastair Begley

darcan - AltLd - 07/Aug/14

Perfect conditions. Started at 0400, 1h40m from bergschrund to summit. Descended normal route then an easy slope.
Roberttaylor - Solo O/S - 06/Aug/14

Alex_RhodesUK - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/14 with Paolo Intropido

Hidden - Solo - 16/Jul/14

kelly_426 - AltLd - Jul/14

Great climb, long day. 12hr from Perroux hut back to the midi. Ice rather rotten in places with loads of spindrift coming down the face.
joe.91 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Olli Crudge

Lots of spindrift,ice was a little mushy at times. Took a gully to the left after the crux pitches, this felt more difficult.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Joe Dobson

Hidden - Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/14

Climbed the difficulties then abbed back to the initial slope due to textbook thickening clouds. Skied the lower steeps in good condition.
ndraper1 - AltLd - 18/May/14 with Joel Evans

Entire face in black ice. Hard climbing insted of nice excursion.
edek_w - 17/Mar/14 with Blazej

mike mo - 2014
joelevanschamonix - AltLd β - 15/Jul/13 with alex marchant

Descended the normal route.
James_L88 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Nathan Ling, James Moore

Perfect conditions on the north face: we simul-climbed with 60m rope stretched in between but set up anchors to belay after difficult sections to protect the second. We did not go through the in-situ bolts after crux but instead climbed a steep ice gully to reach the upper slope. Mushy conditions on the way down and hazardous Japanese guided group on normal route...
efetunc - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Rafal Malczyk

Rafal Malczyk - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Efe Tunc

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/13

After being snowed in at the Torino for 2 days, we'd almost given up hope - then the weather broke for stunning conditions throughout. Moved together the whole way
DigitalSteak - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

GuitarGenius92 - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/13 with will smith

ray.allwood - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/13 with Andy Perkins (Guide)

Moved together except 2 pitches in the narrow gully. Upper field perfect snow ice, started plating towards the summit. Finished in the dark and camped where we'd left our skis at the base.
Jbw - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/13 with Mehdi Cherfaoui

Tobias at Home - 2013

jcw - 2013

James Thacker - 2013

Long day as we went back to the Cosmiques Hut, according to guardian it is quicker to go back to the Torino and take the bus round to Chamonix. Cool route though, crux was probably the bergschrund. We took the direct finish.
demarcation86 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Monty

Moved together for whole route. Tom lead the crux pitches. Found the snow/ice very hard work. Felt much more at home on the final rock pitch. Turned into a long day (14 hours) with walk back across the vallee blanche. Exhausted!
monsteratt - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Tom

newtonmore - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/12

Moved together, had to back off halfway up due to bad weather.
mark88 - Lead dnf - 18/Jun/12 with Merlin Andrew

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/12

Mixed variation by trending left near top
danJBA - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Nick Valentine

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with John Sealey

jon22 - AltLd - 02/Aug/11 with The Bad Cough

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11

tlmarjot - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Ben Lea

minch - 2nd O/S - Aug/11

Dunx - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Rob Stokes, Colin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11

Great route - amazing experience. Camped in the Col before the Torino Hut - got lost on the way to the bottom of the route then simu climbed in 2hrs 45..descent is ok but the short descent looked a bit iffy so opted for the longer route back along the ridge which has a great slab / handrail section... In true style my short cut got us lost on the way back too (whoops whoop but at least we checked out the descent for the entenver ridge..) Thanks Nat :)
Timo Austino - Lead - 16/Jul/11 with Nats

Gill's first ice climb, she did not want to move together. Led the face in 8 pitches. Easy 50-60' snow-ice in perfect nick.
stratfol - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Gill Byrne

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/11

Jack Loftus - Solo - 27/Jun/11 with Lewis Fraser

inuklm - 26/Jun/11 with Kilian

Chris Sieradzki - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Koen Litjens

BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Sam Thompson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11

Si - AltLd - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 12/Feb/11

maxots - Feb/11

maxots - Feb/11

Qulity route, super easy.
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/10 with Kim

Hidden - Lead - 11/Sep/10

James S - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/10

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10

yellow - AltLd - Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/10

Hidden - Apr/10

Dave Almond - Solo - 17/Mar/10

Tom Livingstone - Mar/10

basvdploeg - 2010

clams - 2010 with Litros

Guy Wilson - 2010

Good conditions yet no one else on the route. Started at 6am and took three and a half hours on the snow and ice section. Simulclimbed all the way with 25 metres of rope out, good screws and the odd nut/friend in the rocks to the side, two belays to swap leads. Direct finish over the summit rock buttress.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

Stuart Johnston - AltLd - Jul/09 with g taylor

Perfect conditions and weather from camp below the face.
mathquirk - Lead - 23/May/09 with Jim Brooke

3:30 from camp to summit, mostly moving together, with a pitch on the steep bit and another for the final rope length
Jim Brooke - 23/May/09 with Matt

Climbed the face and skied back down it.
Ben Briggs - Solo O/S - May/09 with Brendan

sgl - Solo - 09/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 23/Mar/09

Tobias at Home - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/09 with Brian

Somerset swede basher - Lead - 01/Jul/08 with Dan Wicks

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/08

Dave Searle - Solo - Jul/08

Dinger - 2nd - 19/Jun/08 with Martin Heaton

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/08 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - AltLd - 19/Jun/08 with Adam Booth

galpinos - AltLd - 07/Sep/07 with Tim, Tim & Chris

bullwinkle - 07/Sep/07 with Nick

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Tom

Nicos - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/07 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/07

dror - Jul/07

kevburr - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/07 with Roger Payne

Bristoldave - 2007 with douglas

Hidden - Lead - Sep/06

Hidden - 28/Aug/06

nickdonohue - Lead - Jun/06 with Dan Pike

Hidden - 2006

Stunning climb, beautiful situation. One I had always wanted to do. Climbed moving together with a couple of ice screws placed just above the narrows and a couple more on the hard ice on the upper ice field field. Started at 2am from the Torino Hur and down before the snow was softened on the descent. We could hear British parties on the face as we crossed the Valley Blanche to the Midi - far too late to be on the route and they must have had a torrid time.
Graham at Aston - Jul/04

liz j - Sep/02 with neil brodie

Alpandy - AltLd O/S - Aug/02 with Matt Owen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/01

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/00

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Jul/99

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/99

Daniel Wrightson - AltLd O/S - 1997 with riccardo corbini

Hidden - Solo - 31/Jul/96

davemhart - AltLd O/S - Aug/89

Two pairs. Mike with Bruce.
Gary Coggon - AltLd O/S - Jul/87 with Bog

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/86

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1986

shark - AltLd - 18/Aug/85 with Phill Dickens

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jul/85

Gerard DANTEC - Lead - Jul/85 with Pierre FAVRET

Hidden - Oct/83

Hidden - Aug/82

Hidden - Aug/82

Hidden - 1979

beaumap - 2nd - Aug/77 with Mick

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - Aug/77 with Dorothy Bogg

Marcus - 1977

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/76

Derek Ryden - 17/Aug/75 with John Kirk

oldmanofmow - Jul/61

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Total votes cast 28
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β