350m. The North Face is about 400 m high (10 to 12 pitches) with ice continuously up to 60 with an average of 52.
In the middle the face narrows to an icy couloir and then opens again for the upper slopes. It is here that it steepens up to 60.
It is best to stay at the right side close to the rocks to get good belay's.
The summit is normally reached by going left of the rocks and joining the normal route over the south-east ridge

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Hidden 27/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/May AltLd O/S
robgixer 28/Mar AltLd
Big Lee 28/Mar AltLd O/S

Lower face was holding some soft snow, which made going slow, but the ice in the couloir was good and the upper face neve was excellent. Continued to the top.

joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
Hidden 31/Oct/14 AltLd
Dougbart 30/Oct/14 -
with Iain
winter hill1 24/Sep/14 -
Alpenglow 09/Sep/14 AltLd

Soloed the lower section and pitched most of the rest. Caught out in a small snowstorm. On the descent, we had to leave a rope after it got stuck whilst abbing down the couloir - bit of an epic!

with Tom L
wilkinscl 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
morpcat 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

As two ropes of two. Clagged in at the top and the route around the back to the summit wasn't tracked in and immediately obvious, which led to some interesting route-finding decisions.

Gumery 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Caroline
CallumSmith 22/Aug/14 AltLd

Pitched middle, went left up gully to final snowfield. Wicked conditions. ��

JHolland 21/Aug/14 -
Tom Campbell 21/Aug/14 -


David Staples 18/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/14 AltLd
Timothy Miller 12/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
alastairbegley 12/Aug/14 AltLd

First alpine north face, fantastic route! Lots of ice which made the climbing great fun. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/tour-ronde-north-face/

Slick 12/Aug/14 AltLd
darcan 07/Aug/14 AltLd
Roberttaylor 06/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Perfect conditions. Started at 0400, 1h40m from bergschrund to summit. Descended normal route then an easy slope.

Alex_RhodesUK 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Paolo Intropido
Hidden 16/Jul/14 Solo
kelly_426 ?/Jul/14 AltLd
joe.91 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Great climb, long day. 12hr from Perroux hut back to the midi. Ice rather rotten in places with loads of spindrift coming down the face.

Olli-C 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lots of spindrift,ice was a little mushy at times. Took a gully to the left after the crux pitches, this felt more difficult.

Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ndraper1 18/May/14 AltLd

Climbed the difficulties then abbed back to the initial slope due to textbook thickening clouds. Skied the lower steeps in good condition.

with Joel Evans
edek_w 17/Mar/14 -

Entire face in black ice. Hard climbing insted of nice excursion.

with Blazej
mike mo ??/2014 -
joelevanschamonix 15/Jul/13 AltLd β


with alex marchant
James_L88 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Descended the normal route.

efetunc 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions on the north face: we simul-climbed with 60m rope stretched in between but set up anchors to belay after difficult sections to protect the second. We did not go through the in-situ bolts after crux but instead climbed a steep ice gully to reach the upper slope. Mushy conditions on the way down and hazardous Japanese guided group on normal route...

with Rafal Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Efe Tunc
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
DigitalSteak 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

After being snowed in at the Torino for 2 days, we'd almost given up hope - then the weather broke for stunning conditions throughout. Moved together the whole way

GuitarGenius92 27/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with will smith
ray.allwood 22/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Andy Perkins (Guide)
Jbw 06/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Moved together except 2 pitches in the narrow gully. Upper field perfect snow ice, started plating towards the summit. Finished in the dark and camped where we'd left our skis at the base.

with Mehdi Cherfaoui
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
demarcation86 11/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Long day as we went back to the Cosmiques Hut, according to guardian it is quicker to go back to the Torino and take the bus round to Chamonix. Cool route though, crux was probably the bergschrund. We took the direct finish.

with Monty
monsteratt 11/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Moved together for whole route. Tom lead the crux pitches. Found the snow/ice very hard work. Felt much more at home on the final rock pitch. Turned into a long day (14 hours) with walk back across the vallee blanche. Exhausted!

with Tom
newtonmore 22/Jul/12 -
Hidden 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
mark88 18/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Moved together, had to back off halfway up due to bad weather.

with Merlin Andrew
Hidden ?/Feb/12 AltLd
danJBA 15/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Mixed variation by trending left near top

Hidden 11/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
jon22 02/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot 01/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Ben Lea
minch ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Dunx 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Rob Stokes, Colin
Hidden 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Timo Austino 16/Jul/11 Lead

Great route - amazing experience. Camped in the Col before the Torino Hut - got lost on the way to the bottom of the route then simu climbed in 2hrs 45..descent is ok but the short descent looked a bit iffy so opted for the longer route back along the ridge which has a great slab / handrail section... In true style my short cut got us lost on the way back too (whoops whoop but at least we checked out the descent for the entenver ridge..) Thanks Nat :)

with Nats
stratfol 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Gill's first ice climb, she did not want to move together. Led the face in 8 pitches. Easy 50-60' snow-ice in perfect nick.

with Gill Byrne
Hidden 27/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Jack Loftus 27/Jun/11 Solo
inuklm 26/Jun/11 -
with Kilian
Chris Sieradzki 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Koen Litjens
BorisVBlade 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Sam Thompson
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Si 19/Mar/11 AltLd
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead
maxots ?/Feb/11 -
maxots ?/Feb/11 -
Ally Baba 23/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Qulity route, super easy.

with Kim
Hidden 11/Sep/10 Lead
James S 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
carl_123 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
yellow ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Dave Almond 17/Mar/10 Solo
Tom Livingstone ?/Mar/10 -
basvdploeg ??/2010 -
clams ??/2010 -
with Litros
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Misha 31/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Good conditions yet no one else on the route. Started at 6am and took three and a half hours on the snow and ice section. Simulclimbed all the way with 25 metres of rope out, good screws and the odd nut/friend in the rocks to the side, two belays to swap leads. Direct finish over the summit rock buttress.

Hidden ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Stuart Johnston ?/Jul/09 AltLd
mathquirk 23/May/09 Lead

Perfect conditions and weather from camp below the face.

with Jim Brooke
Jim Brooke 23/May/09 -

3:30 from camp to summit, mostly moving together, with a pitch on the steep bit and another for the final rope length

with Matt
Ben Briggs ?/May/09 Solo O/S

Climbed the face and skied back down it.

with Brendan
sgl 09/Apr/09 Solo
Hidden 23/Mar/09 Lead
Tobias at Home 16/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Brian
Somerset swede basher 01/Jul/08 Lead
with Dan Wicks
Hidden 01/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Dave Searle ?/Jul/08 Solo
Dinger 19/Jun/08 2nd
with Martin Heaton
Adam Booth 19/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 19/Jun/08 AltLd
galpinos 07/Sep/07 AltLd
with Tim, Tim & Chris
bullwinkle 07/Sep/07 -
with Nick
Rob84 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Nicos 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
dror ?/Jul/07 -
kevburr 20/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
Bristoldave ??/2007 -
with douglas
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/06 -
nickdonohue ?/Jun/06 Lead
with Dan Pike
Hidden ??/2006 -
Graham at Aston ?/Jul/04 -

Stunning climb, beautiful situation. One I had always wanted to do. Climbed moving together with a couple of ice screws placed just above the narrows and a couple more on the hard ice on the upper ice field field. Started at 2am from the Torino Hur and down before the snow was softened on the descent. We could hear British parties on the face as we crossed the Valley Blanche to the Midi - far too late to be on the route and they must have had a torrid time.

liz j ?/Sep/02 -
with neil brodie
Alpandy ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Matt Owen
Hidden 31/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/00 2nd
Hidden 31/Jul/99 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd
Daniel Wrightson ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with riccardo corbini
Hidden 31/Jul/96 Solo
davemhart ?/Aug/89 AltLd O/S
Gary Coggon ?/Jul/87 AltLd O/S

Two pairs. Mike with Bruce.

with Bog
Hidden 22/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ??/1986 AltLd
shark 18/Aug/85 AltLd
with Phill Dickens
Hidden ?/Jul/85 Solo O/S
Gerard DANTEC ?/Jul/85 Lead
with Pierre FAVRET
Hidden ?/Oct/83 -
Nevil ?/Aug/82 -
with Jon, Mike
Hidden ?/Aug/82 -
Hidden ??/1979 -
beaumap ?/Aug/77 2nd
with Mick
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Aug/77 AltLd
with Dorothy Bogg
Marcus ??/1977 -
Hidden ?/Aug/76 AltLd
Derek Ryden 17/Aug/75 -
with John Kirk
uphillnow ??/1966 Lead
with charlie Tanner
oldmanofmow ?/Jul/61 -
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