Double Diamond*** HVS 5b
[Reaching the hairy bit, 3 kb]35m. From the cave, pull right over the overhang and step up to the base of a small crack (alternatively, traverse from Diamond Solitaire - 5a). Climb the crack until it's possible to step right into another crack. Continue up this and the headwall above on good holds.
S Whalley, G Gibson 23/Jul/1984

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Reaching the hairy bit © phantom whistler
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This climb is in 209 logbooks, and on 43 wishlists.

kennythescot - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/15

It's possible to access the recess under the slab at high tide, with a bit of careful down-climbing and traversing.
mariannekhoo - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/14 with Monica G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/14

James led as a single pitch. Nice line. Hard bouldery first move. Then eases up.
natalio - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/14 with James H

alastairbegley - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Andrew Twemlow

twem - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Alastair

did 5a alternate start, I think
pimpy - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with clare muir

Cool climbing.
James Oswald - 2nd - Sep/14

Mr Powly - Lead - Sep/14 with Rozzy

AndyL - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Calum cuthill

Andy Moles - 2nd - 30/Aug/14 with Ferdia

ferdia - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/14 with Andy

burto - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/14 with hertha

guy757 - 21/Aug/14

guy757 - 19/Aug/14

Curly Rich - 16/Aug/14 with gmc

Fab route in an amazing location, loads of gear and very pleasant moves.
RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/14 with James

Anna Maykova - 2nd - 12/Aug/14 with Alan, Ian

Had a long wait for it. Great though
freemanTom - Lead - 12/Aug/14 with David Eccles, Curly Rich

hotfeet - 2nd - 12/Aug/14 with Anna Maykova, Ian Routledge

Ian MK - Lead - 12/Aug/14 with Alan

gonzo_ls9 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/14 with d

wrapped in bacon - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/14 with john (Leeds), Daryl

A bit disappointed after all the hype. Nice climbing but probably only one move low down that merits anything more than 4c.
Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Graham Exley

Amazing line! A few moves at the bottom of the crack seemed hard (harder than Asafoetida) with only a couple of runners to the side, but quickly eases.
Stroppy - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/14 with Alex Thomson

Pretty thin at the bottom, and doesnt dry quickly either. The approach down the buttress was good fun and possible at high tide. Good lead by Ed.
Alex the Alex - 2nd - 02/Aug/14 with Ed

Hidden - 2014

Pretty sure I did the start as per description. A bit of a tricky move low down then it just keeps getting easier up the slab. Fantastic climbing and position.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13 with Emily

Gavdee1 - 2nd - 11/Sep/13 with Jeremy Watson, Tony Johnson

tonevert - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/13 with jeremy, Gavin

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/13

khalidq - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/13 with Chris Colebrook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/13

Got lost in the wrong crack after the start!
Justin T - Lead dnf - 07/Sep/13 with Nancy

cem - Lead rpt - 06/Sep/13 with Vaughan Hewett

Really nice line, shame that alot of it is shared with diamond solitare.
arandall - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/13 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd O/S - Sep/13 with arandall

dsgarner - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/13 with stu bradbury

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Aug/13

Justin Shiels - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13

ChrisHarris1981 - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Duncan Turner

Duncan Turner - Lead - Aug/13

I traversed to the main crack via a 5a high-traverse line (a couple of metres above the bottom). Great route.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/13 with Ingrid C

gowla - 2nd - 27/Sep/12 with Alex Burns

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Sep/12

Julian Prieto - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Max Streeton

Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Libby Blundell

Nicely varied, the overhang was possibly the crux, followed by enjoyable padding up the crack. Didn't think any of it was 5b tho.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Rob T, Ed

Stuck a piece of gear in the corner at the start of the slightly damp slab as it seemed very run out (above a horrible landing), straightforward otherwise, really nice climbing.
eduardo - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Misha

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/12

Kevster - 2nd - 10/Sep/12 with Will T

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/12 with steve read

(cave start still wet/slimey)
rd20 - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Fiona

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Sep/12

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 07/Sep/12 with Alan

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/12

Fiona McFarlane - 2nd O/S - Sep/12 with Robert Dufton

5a start...
Fiona McFarlane - Lead rpt - Sep/12 with Loic menzies

Alan Dixon - Sep/12 with Anthony Dixon

Nick Wallis - Lead - Sep/12 with Martin Cooper

Tala M - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/12

Speed ascent!
Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 23/Aug/12 with Graeme Hammond

Speed accent on the way to catch the ferry probably enhanced the experience, last climb of the holiday :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Jim

5a start.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/12 with Richard Williams

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Aug/12

oliverk - 2nd - 09/Aug/12 with Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/12

Did i go the right way, or didn't i go the right way? who cares, i enjoyed it!
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12 with Andy Turner

rurp - TR - 07/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/12

Ben Wolstenholme - Lead - 07/Apr/12 with John Roberts (JR)

cymjt - 2012

Maxim2023 - 2nd - Oct/11 with monty attwood

felt quite nervous about this one - looks quite intimidating from the bottom. Only one slightly tricky move low down though. Felt more relaxed after that. Good climbing plenty of gear - amazing crag.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Max Edwards

From Diamond Solitaire
John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11 with Erica

With the 5a start
erica - 2nd - 16/Sep/11 with John

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/11

Kevster - 2nd rpt - 28/Aug/11

Liam FLeming - Lead - 24/Aug/11 with karen dalzell

Rachel Somerville - 2nd - 22/Aug/11 with Graham

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/11

Nice route. Felt about VS 5a to me, but might have built up some extra fitness after a few days' climbing.
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Gary Lewin

Graham Booth - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with rachel somerville

Guy Wilson - Aug/11 with Gavin Moy

Baffled by guidebook description and first 10 metres of this route. Does it really go over the overhang as for Cullinan???
julesmckim - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Mickie Streule

tev - 2nd - 26/Sep/10 with DAJ

Via 5a start as the original one was wet. Nice climbing on a good line.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Claire

Leelogs - 2nd - 11/Sep/10 with victim of mathematics

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10

flared and greasy at the start but fantastic moves after that. good introduction to lundy!
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Remus Knowles

Kevster - Lead - Sep/10

Alex T (RAFMA) - Sep/10 with Rimon

Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/10 with Richard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/10

3 Names - Lead - 10/Aug/10 with Sumee Holloway

irish paul - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Sarah Joyce

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/10

gareth r - 2nd - 05/Oct/09 with John Jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/09

dicky79 - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Mark Nicholson

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/09

Opted for 5a start. Dropped gear but retrieved it!
mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/09

richw2k2 - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09 with Mick Jones

Great climbing in a superb position. Definitely worth doing the 5b start, which is easy for the grade, with solid gear, and makes for a dramatic emergence onto the slab.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Alex

1st Lundy route
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Sep/09

datoon - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/09 with K

khawk - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09 with DT

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/09

... but took the start of Diamond Solitaire through the cave to escape from sea-level. Very slippery indeed.
crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/09 with dpmUK

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/09

The Mountain Goat - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with George Taylor

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Aug/09

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Stew Boyce

Frostie - Lead rpt - Aug/09 with Andy Owen

lukea - Lead - 30/Jun/09 with Al

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/09 with Tim Evans

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 17/Sep/08

An interesting baptism into lundy west coast climbing. Moved in from left to avoid total dunking
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Nik Goile

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Hidden - Lead - Sep/08

AJ007 - Lead - 31/Aug/08 with Ian

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/08 with anna barnes

James B - Lead - 28/Aug/08 with Nigel

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with douglas

Barry D - AltLd - 19/Aug/08 with Chris M

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/08

Shaw Brown - Lead - 09/May/08 with Jeb

Coel Hellier - Lead - 02/May/08

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/08 with Helen Alderson

Al Evans - 2008

John Kettle - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Richard Fox - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/07 with Rob Dorman

Guy - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with C Mawson

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/07

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with KM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07

Nice route, but a bit unbalanced with all the hard moves in the first 10m.
Chad123 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07 with Ben and Jan

Rob Kennard - 2007

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/06 with Mike Hayes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/06

HughM - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with notgnarly

davebrox - Sep/06 with Ann Fisher

Marq - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/06 with David (Exeter Uni)

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Aug/06

Great route with the crux a couple of moves later than I expected
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/06 with Nick & Kate

Katex - 2nd - 21/Aug/06 with Chris Moor, Nick Smith

Hidden - Lead - Aug/06

Bern - 2006

feilx - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/05

givemetea - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/05 with Hazel and Susie Norris

Bella - 2nd O/S - Sep/05 with Lucy Ham

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2005

Hidden - 2005

LC - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/03

ferdia - 2nd - 19/Oct/02 with Nia Wilcox, Andrew Wielochowski

cem - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/02 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - AltLd - 2001

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

timmy-ts - 2000

Well named; incredible rock quality. Hard move stepping right between the cracks.
alan moore - 2000

WB - AltLd O/S - Sep/99 with Guy

Derek Furze - Aug/99

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/98

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/98 with Steve Newman

andy_pemberton - Lead - Aug/98

shark - Lead - 23/Aug/97 with Dave Marsh

Hidden - Lead - 1997

colin milton - 2nd - 04/Sep/96 with eric milton

snowcat - 2nd - 28/Aug/96 with Chris Schiller

Pete Nugent - Lead - 17/Aug/96

Simon cook - Aug/96

Steve Lenartowicz - 1995

RichardMc - AltLd - 10/Sep/92 with John Evans

Nick Biven - Lead - 04/Sep/92

mattnuttall - Solo rpt - Sep/92

Hidden - Aug/92

mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/91 with Alan Holden

Hidden - 2nd β - 04/Sep/91

garywalker147 - AltLd O/S - Sep/91 with Mob

Liked it so much repeated it in Sep '95
eroica64 - Lead O/S - Sep/90 with Denis Crampton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/90

Steve Bell - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Never 5b!
Sean Kelly - Lead - Aug/89 with Alan Payne

BigHairyIan - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/89 with Alan Lilley (Thug)

ChrisJD - Lead - 19/Sep/88

steve taylor - Lead - Sep/88 with john catt

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/86 with Angel Vila, Tess Poole

Tom V - Aug/86

Hidden - 1984

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
elskorupa, Martin Brierley, mapperley samurai, Kate Edhouse, StuartP, alexjz, Mayaculpa, ClimbingGlen, gibsond, Ian Jones, Legs, mullermn, pc1983, rustaldo, dansmonkeytroubles, iceaxejuggler, Jess patel, Alan100, JWB, PanzerHanzler, andybuckley, Robfromcornwall, Urgles, rob askew

Total votes cast 115
hard E10 of 46
E10 of 46
easy E11 of 46
hard HVS2 of 46
HVS39 of 46
easy HVS3 of 46
hard VS1 of 46
VS0 of 46
easy VS0 of 46
hard 5c0 of 26
5c0 of 26
easy 5c0 of 26
hard 5b0 of 26
5b15 of 26
easy 5b6 of 26
hard 5a3 of 26
5a2 of 26
easy 5a0 of 26
3 Stars39 of 43
2 Stars4 of 43
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat