35m. From the cave, pull right over the overhang and step up to the base of a small crack (alternatively, traverse from Diamond Solitaire - 5a). Climb the crack until it's possible to step right into another crack. Continue up this and the headwall above on good holds.

S Whalley, G Gibson 23/Jul/1984

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
UnkArl 03/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct Lead O/S
LRob ?/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug Lead O/S
kennythescot 17/Aug AltLd O/S
Kaiser999 ?/Aug 2nd
Adam Richardson
mariannekhoo 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S

It's possible to access the recess under the slab at high tide, with a bit of careful down-climbing and traversing.

Monica G
Hidden 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
natalio 09/Sep/14 2nd O/S

James led as a single pitch. Nice line. Hard bouldery first move. Then eases up.

James H
alastairbegley 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
twem 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
pimpy 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

did 5a alternate start, I think

clare muir
James Oswald ?/Sep/14 2nd

Cool climbing.

Mr Powly ?/Sep/14 Lead
Tom Brierley Gore ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
AndyL 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 30/Aug/14 2nd
ferdia 30/Aug/14 Lead rpt
burto 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
guy757 21/Aug/14 -
guy757 19/Aug/14 -
Curly Rich 16/Aug/14 -
RFWilkie 14/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Fab route in an amazing location, loads of gear and very pleasant moves.

Anna Maykova 12/Aug/14 2nd
freemanTom 12/Aug/14 Lead

Had a long wait for it. Great though

David Eccles, Curly Rich
hotfeet 12/Aug/14 2nd
Ian MK 12/Aug/14 Lead
gonzo_ls9 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
wrapped in bacon 11/Aug/14 2nd O/S
john (Leeds), Daryl
Dave Musgrove 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A bit disappointed after all the hype. Nice climbing but probably only one move low down that merits anything more than 4c.

Graham Exley
Stroppy 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Amazing line! A few moves at the bottom of the crack seemed hard (harder than Asafoetida) with only a couple of runners to the side, but quickly eases.

Alex the Alex 02/Aug/14 2nd

Pretty thin at the bottom, and doesnt dry quickly either. The approach down the buttress was good fun and possible at high tide. Good lead by Ed.

Hidden ??/2014 -
Nick Russell 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Pretty sure I did the start as per description. A bit of a tricky move low down then it just keeps getting easier up the slab. Fantastic climbing and position.

Gavdee1 11/Sep/13 2nd
Jeremy Watson, Tony Johnson
tonevert 11/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jeremy, Gavin
Hidden 10/Sep/13 Lead rpt
khalidq 09/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Justin T 07/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Got lost in the wrong crack after the start!

cem 06/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Vaughan Hewett
arandall 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really nice line, shame that alot of it is shared with diamond solitare.

Wendy Watthews ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
dsgarner 30/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/13 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
Justin Shiels 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
ChrisHarris1981 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Duncan Turner ?/Aug/13 Lead
masa-alpin 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S

I traversed to the main crack via a 5a high-traverse line (a couple of metres above the bottom). Great route.

Ingrid C
gowla 27/Sep/12 2nd
Alex Burns
Hidden 27/Sep/12 2nd
Julian Prieto 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Joris.Roulleau 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Misha 11/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Nicely varied, the overhang was possibly the crux, followed by enjoyable padding up the crack. Didn't think any of it was 5b tho.

Rob T, Ed
eduardo 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Stuck a piece of gear in the corner at the start of the slightly damp slab as it seemed very run out (above a horrible landing), straightforward otherwise, really nice climbing.

Hidden 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Kevster 10/Sep/12 2nd
Paul Eckton 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
steve read
rd20 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

(cave start still wet/slimey)

Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd
Anthony Dixon 07/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/12 2nd
Fiona McFarlane ?/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Robert Dufton
Fiona McFarlane ?/Sep/12 Lead rpt

5a start...

Loic menzies
Alan Dixon ?/Sep/12 -
Nick Wallis ?/Sep/12 Lead
Martin Cooper
Tala M 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 23/Aug/12 2nd rpt

Speed ascent!

Graeme Hammond 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Speed accent on the way to catch the ferry probably enhanced the experience, last climb of the holiday :)

Jim Slater 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S

5a start.

Hidden 12/Aug/12 2nd
oliverk 09/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Dan Lane 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Did i go the right way, or didn't i go the right way? who cares, i enjoyed it!

Andy Turner
rurp 07/Jun/12 TR


Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd
Ben Wolstenholme 07/Apr/12 Lead
cymjt ??/2012 -
Maxim2023 ?/Oct/11 2nd
monty attwood
monsteratt 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S

felt quite nervous about this one - looks quite intimidating from the bottom. Only one slightly tricky move low down though. Felt more relaxed after that. Good climbing plenty of gear - amazing crag.

Max Edwards
John Brayshaw 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S

From Diamond Solitaire

erica 16/Sep/11 2nd

With the 5a start

Hidden 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead
Kevster 28/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Liam FLeming 24/Aug/11 Lead
karen dalzell
Rachel Somerville 22/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Chris Sansum 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice route. Felt about VS 5a to me, but might have built up some extra fitness after a few days' climbing.

Gary Lewin
Graham Booth ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/11 -
Gavin Moy
julesmckim 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Baffled by guidebook description and first 10 metres of this route. Does it really go over the overhang as for Cullinan???

tev 26/Sep/10 2nd
victim of mathematics 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Via 5a start as the original one was wet. Nice climbing on a good line.

Leelogs 11/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
benkelsey 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S

flared and greasy at the start but fantastic moves after that. good introduction to lundy!

Kevster ?/Sep/10 Lead
Alex T (RAFMA) ?/Sep/10 -
Helen Gibson 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S
3 Names 10/Aug/10 Lead
irish paul 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Sarah Joyce
Hidden 24/May/10 2nd
gareth r 05/Oct/09 2nd
John Jones
Hidden 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
dicky79 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Mark Nicholson
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd
mick1jones 11/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Opted for 5a start. Dropped gear but retrieved it!

richw2k2 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Andy Clarke 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Great climbing in a superb position. Definitely worth doing the 5b start, which is easy for the grade, with solid gear, and makes for a dramatic emergence onto the slab.

Mark Warnett ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

1st Lundy route

datoon 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
khawk 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S
crossdressingrodney 14/Aug/09 2nd O/S

... but took the start of Diamond Solitaire through the cave to escape from sea-level. Very slippery indeed.

Hidden 07/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 Lead
The Mountain Goat 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
George Taylor
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd
gripped01 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Stew Boyce
Frostie ?/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Andy Owen
lukea 30/Jun/09 Lead
Adam Booth 22/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/08 Lead
chris wyatt 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

An interesting baptism into lundy west coast climbing. Moved in from left to avoid total dunking

Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead
AJ007 31/Aug/08 Lead
dan gibson 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
anna barnes
James B 28/Aug/08 Lead
Bristoldave 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Barry D 19/Aug/08 AltLd
Chris M
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd
Shaw Brown 09/May/08 Lead
Coel Hellier 02/May/08 Lead
Tim Steward 15/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Helen Alderson
Al Evans ??/2008 -
John Kettle ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Richard Fox 11/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Rob Dorman
Guy ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
C Mawson
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
Steve Crowe ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Chad123 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Nice route, but a bit unbalanced with all the hard moves in the first 10m.

Ben and Jan
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 12/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/06 Lead O/S
HughM ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
davebrox ?/Sep/06 -
Ann Fisher
Marq 25/Aug/06 2nd O/S
David (Exeter Uni)
Hidden 21/Aug/06 2nd dog
Chris the Tall 21/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Great route with the crux a couple of moves later than I expected

Nick & Kate
Katex 21/Aug/06 2nd
Chris Moor, Nick Smith
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
Bern ??/2006 -
feilx ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 10/Sep/05 2nd O/S
givemetea 02/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hazel and Susie Norris
Bella ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
Lucy Ham
Hidden ??/2005 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
LC ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 21/Sep/03 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/03 Lead O/S
ferdia 19/Oct/02 2nd
Nia Wilcox, Andrew Wielochowski
cem 08/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 AltLd
Hidden 11/Sep/00 2nd O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
timmy-ts ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -

Well named; incredible rock quality. Hard move stepping right between the cracks.

WB ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
Derek Furze ?/Aug/99 -
Hidden 11/Sep/98 2nd
Paul-Michael 04/Aug/98 Lead O/S
Steve Newman
andy_pemberton ?/Aug/98 Lead
shark 23/Aug/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
colin milton 04/Sep/96 2nd
eric milton
snowcat 28/Aug/96 2nd
Chris Schiller
Pete Nugent 17/Aug/96 Lead
Simon cook ?/Aug/96 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1995 -
RichardMc 10/Sep/92 AltLd
John Evans
Nick Biven 04/Sep/92 Lead
mattnuttall ?/Sep/92 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/92 -
mattnuttall 18/Sep/91 2nd O/S
Alan Holden
Hidden 04/Sep/91 2nd β
garywalker147 ?/Sep/91 AltLd O/S
eroica64 ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S

Liked it so much repeated it in Sep '95

Denis Crampton
Hidden 28/May/90 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Sean Kelly ?/Aug/89 Lead

Never 5b!

Alan Payne
BigHairyIan 28/Mar/89 Lead O/S
Alan Lilley (Thug)
ChrisJD 19/Sep/88 Lead
steve taylor ?/Sep/88 Lead
john catt
RichardMc 14/Sep/86 Lead O/S
Angel Vila, Tess Poole
Tom V ?/Aug/86 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 48
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set